Zucca Rocks Borgo Cerquelle

Photo Courtesy of Borgo Cerquelle

Borgo Cerquelle is celebrating fall harvests in a joyfully orangey way – pumpkins have crept into every aspect of the bioagriturismo’s autumn offerings. We were lucky to have taste tested their light as a cloud pumpkin gnocchi. Sorry, we scarfed them down too fast to take a picture.

Before I start slurping the pot of pumpkin soup I just made from one of Borgo Cerquelle’s organic pumpkins, I need to explain how visiting this hilltop bioagriturismo is a leap back into the history of Pontelandolfo. Borgo Cerquelle is an ancient – well borgo – hamlet – that in the end of the 1600s housed contadini – peasant farmers. Built entirely of stone, the borgo has been repurposed into an incredible spot for locals and tourists. It is just a few minutes up the mountain from Pontelandolfo’s historic center. Those of you who know me, know that gulp, twisty mountain roads are not my favorite route to anywhere. Jack loves them! That said, Borgo Cerquelle, located about 600 m – 1970 feet – above sea level and surrounded by streams, woods, meadows and olive groves is worth the driving angst. The view of Pontelandolfo from there makes me want to sing Finian’s Rainbow “How are things in Glocca Morra.” Some days I do!

Some members of the original families have returned to visit and marvel at how Borgo Cerquelle was rehabbed, preserved intact and is alive again. Guests stay in the rustically furnished, heated rooms with an independent entrance and bathroom. I must admit, the original inhabitants did not have indoor plumbing. Thank goodness for that upgrade.

Our Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo participants stay here and have nothing but joyful comments about the place, the family who runs it and of course – the food.

 

Celebrating fall and the fabulous harvest found on this organic farm also means fall foliage. Borgo Cerquelle is in an area abundant with oak trees. I learned that “Cerquelle” is based on the ancient dialect name for oaks -“cerque.”

The family that has created this unusual place to eat and stay is headed by Alverio and Marianna. Alverio insists Marianna is the boss. They are more than ably assisted by their son Antonino and daughter Serena. Antonino wears the administrative hat now and his sister Serena takes care of the kitchen following the traditional recipes of his mother and grandmother. Serena is a talented potter and her creativity can be seen on every table. Antonino’s photos grace their website.

Sniff, sniff, my zuppa di zucca is percolating on the stove. Yummy. After a day at Borgo Cerquelle eating farm to table fare that featured pumpkins, I knew I had to bring a pumpkin home. You need to know that lunch at this bioagriturismo takes a minimum of three hours. There is no menu choice. What is fresh today is what is cooked. We have never had anything but an exceptional locally sourced feast.

Yeah, I have a pazillion pounds of pumpkin! Jack, borrowing a samurai sword, hacked it into manageable pieces. I had been gifted an old rooster that had outlived his cock-a-doodle and made a rich chicken – or is it rooster -stock. Now, how to put both these quite local food groups together? Simple. 1. Roast the pumpkin which makes it easier to cut up. 2. Take a scant head of garlic, dice it, toss it in the broth and let it simmer. (Garlic wards off fall flu.) 3. Toss in some old cheese rinds, tyme, rosemary, salt and pepper. 4. Let the roasted pumpkin cool. Ok, Jack made me let it cool. I am famous for burning my hands in the kitchen. 5. Cut up the pumpkin, toss it in the pot and let everything simmer to meld. 6. Take out the immersion blender, zzzzzzzzzzz, errrrrrrrrrr, it to a creamy texture. 7. EAT with hearty bread from Diglio Forno drizzled with Borgo Cerquelle savory pumpkin marmalade.

This fall, Borgo Cerquelle has offered a plethora of activities from harvesting, trips to the river, classes in cooking, ceramics, art therapy and my favorite APERITIVO! With a reservation, as the sun sets, we can zip up the mountain and enjoy a cocktail and incredible snacks. As the laughter of guests fills the fall air, an outdoor bar decorated for fall is the anchor.

When I asked Alverio why they do what they do. He explained that they want to revive the activities and traditions of the ancient inhabitants of the village. That means cultivating the land and raising animals organically, providing an oasis away from the stress of the city and offering an experience that is perfect for individuals and families. I have to say that every time I bring children there for lunch they race off to see the animals, climb the rope course and just plain old play.

HEY JACK WHEN YOU READ THIS BLOG POST – AND YOU BETTER BE READING MY BLOG POSTS – WE HAVE TO GO TO THIS AT BORGO CERQUELLE – werwolves and witches – huzzah!

The people, the place and the friendly wolf/dogs Vilcas e Tempesta make Borgo Cerquelle a great place to eat, relax, play and breath. I hope to run into you there.

A group of Cooking in the kitchens of Pontelandolfo cooks pose with Marianna, Antonino and Alverio.

Ci vediamo prossima volta,

Midge

Sannio Hills Welcome En Plein Air Artists

Next fall, easels, pochade boxes and artists focusing on la bella vista will be popping up in the hills and historic centers of Morcone, Casalduni and Pontelandolfo. An En Plein Air workshop, organized by artist Steve Duprey and Midge Guerrera (that’s me) of Literally Italy LLC, is scheduled for September 2026. (And you thought Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo was all I was up to.) Steve’s enthusiasm for the Sannio Hills and his expertise as an artist was all it took for this new cultural initiative to percolate here.

By Steve Duprey

Eight artists will have the opportunity to leave the four walls of their studios behind and paint the landscape, streetscapes and people of small southern Italian villages. On this blog, you’ve seen photos of our little piece of Italy and can imagine the paintings that this group will create. Some of the sites to be visited include Roman ruins, vineyard, olive groves, farms and medieval village centers. Steve particularly wanted us to take painters to Morcone’s hill top historic center. The group will be shuttled in Api Cars converted to navette – mini shuttle buses -to the tippy top of historic Morcone. That in itself is a cultural experience. The vista of the valley is amazing.

According to our delightful local organizer, Annarita, Pontelandolfo’s traditional folk dance troupe will have members in historic costumes living life in the village’s historic center. If an artist falls in love with the setting and wanted to place a person in the painting, they have models available.

A flock of sheep crossing a rural road in the hills of southern Italy, reflecting the spontaneous moments that artists will capture during the workshop.

Participants will share large double rooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa. I love this villa. Last October our playwright’s retreat used the space and participants really enjoyed it.

Happy writers and one writer/painter. Can you find Steve?

Located in Pontelandolfo, the property is in a wonderful park filled with olive groves, orchard, pond, swimming pool, tennis court and woodland trails.

Writer/Artist Steve Duprey on a terrace of La Locanda della Presuntuosa.

Here is the basic Retreat information: (Check out Seve’s Overview )

September 4 – 13, 2026 Limited to 8 Participants

  • Transportation from the Benevento Train Station to Pontelandolfo
  • 10 nights in villa La Locanda della Presuntuosa near the historic center of Pontelandolfo.
  • Most meals are included, either out or cooked by our host/cook. Vegetarians can
    be accommodated.
  • Arrival Day Bar Crawl will help you know the town and give the locals the chance
    to meet you.
  • Locally Sourced Food Lunch at Agriturismo Borgo Cerquelle
  • English Speaking Translator for all Italian centered events.
  • Wine and artesian food tasting at a local vintner.
  • Optional: Sharing a meal with a local family in their home. (Additional fee of €30)
  • Excursion to Altilia Roman Ruins http://www.sepino-altilia.it/
  • Expedition to interesting visual sites. (Steve posted tons of photos that will give you and idea of what you will see.)
  • Outing to Benevento – museums of your choice, Arco di Triano, Hortus Conclusus
  • Transportation to all painting sites and events.
  • Outing to Benevento – museums of your choice, Arco di Triano, Hortus Conclusus 
  • Optional Excursion to Reggio Caserta tickets are currently €15
  • An exhibition of work created with local buyers in attendance.
  • Occasional evening critique sessions with your fellow artists

WANT TO RESERVE A PLACE? HAVE QUESTIONS? CONTACT STEVE DUPREY AT dupreyart123@gmail.com.

I am so excited about this project! Hope to see you paint brush in hand.

We want to share the Sannio Hills with you.
Have an idea for a retreat or workshop?
Let me know.
We can put our creative hats on and work with you.

Knitting? Writing? Weaving? Music? Dance? Folk Arts?

Ci vediamo prossima volta!

Midge

Writers &Readers Thrive in Sannio Hills

Since we got back to our happy creative place, my inbox has been a flutter with invitations to book launches, book club and writer meet and greets. Remember, my happy creative place is not an urban center but Pontelandolfo – a tiny village with a population under 3,000 – that includes sheep and cows.

One of the newest organizations that is making a literary impact is Sannio Che Legge. Spear headed by folks with an interest in art, literature, intellectual discourse and highlighting the cultural connections of Pontelandolfo, Morcone and the entire Sannio area, they are constantly providing me with a place to go and a book to read.

An aside: I just turned to Jack and bellowed, “I just love this!” We are sitting outside Bar Elimar, my writers room, Latin music is playing, I’m sipping a limoncello spritz, tapping my foot and writing. Two tables of men are playing cards. Three tables of thirty something’s, with babies in tow, are gossiping and laughing. How could someone not create art here???

Jack and I went to the Sannio Che Legge event at Morcone’s newest restaurant, Cantina Ristorante Biancamela. (Morcone’s progressive mayor and council are working hard to bring life back to their historic center. That is another blog. ) I was impressed. About 30 people were there listening to author Rita Martignetti talk about the genesis of his work. He actually gave all of us a copy of one of his books. Grazie Mille. His numerous works deal in an entertaining manner with the history of the Sannio Hills.

I should note that Sannio Che Legge grew out of the Pontelandolfo Biblioclub and signed a Reading Pact with the Municipality of Pontelandolfo. The organization is now entrusted with the Pontelandolfo Library.

I will be there with my cosmopolitan literati hat on.

One of my besties, Adele Gentile had a recent book launch and of course I went. Once her publisher gets that e-book link and on line bookstore link up there, you will get a full story on her tome.

Book launches here are set up a bit differently. Adele, the author, didn’t read any parts of her book. She has a wild and wonderful personality and I was looking forward to her reading. Instead, others – think critics – talked about the book. There was also dialogue with the author. It was actually incredibly interesting. A great way to learn about an author’s catalyst for creation.

Blue is Adele’s favorite colors and blue took over the auditorium. From the flowers on the stage to the cover of her emotional and yet entertaining memoir. I chuckled as I watched Adele hand out programs and check every detail of the launch. Is she a Jersey Girl too?

The place was packed. That means about 200 people came to a book launch. A book launch in a teeny tiny village! (Damn, time to start getting my stuff translated.)

Adele, wrote her memoir while undergoing treatment for breast cancer. Ooops, I vowed I wouldn’t say a word until we had the links so that you could buy the book. It is – a freakin‘ amazing work.

Rescheduled to September.

I am excited to hear this presentation and buy a copy of the book – written in English and Italian. Written originally as a screenplay, the novel tells the tale of the 1861 pillage of Pontelalndolfo in the name of Risorgimento in a different way. An American woman with Pontelandolfo roots visits the village, sees a mural and …. I can’t wait to read the story.

I could overburden your inboxes with more examples or you could visit our little place of creative energy and see for yourself. Interested in gathering up some writer pals and spending a week here? Just let me know and we can organize something magical. Then, I will grab my laptop and join your writer’s room on Piazza Roma.

Ci vediamo,

Midge

http://www.midgeguerrera.com

What I REALLY Thought About QM2 TransAtlantic Crossing

Those of you who had been following my tales comparing my Nonna’s 1920 transatlantic crossing and mine, know that on May 30, 2025 we disembarked in Southhampton, England UK. Nobody laugh but until we took the QM2 across the Atlantic I didn’t know the word disembarkation existed. Then a bus, a plane and a car service later we were home in Pontelandolfo, Italy.

Some of you have messaged me and asked – What did you really think about the crossing? Was it organized to a type A Jersey Girl’s level of expectation? What did you learn? Would you do it again?

I thought the crossing was fabulous. Jack and I don’t put on worry hats. We absolutely ignored all those woosies telling us to wear magic anti nausea bracelets and take dramamine . Yes, one felt the roll of the ocean. That roll would rock me to sleep at night. It is chilly on the Atlantic but, frankly, we rarely went outside. We found two bars we loved – great martinis, fabulous views of the sea, comfortable seats and interesting other travelers. With my laptop in toe, I would write in the bars or simply stare at the sea. Being friendly folks, we often shared a seating area with other people and had funfilled and engaging conversations. Most of the passengers we met were from Great Britain, Ireland and Italy. (All asked us the same question – who voted for that man to be president? I shrugged and said “boh.”)

We had a room – or do I call it a cabin – that was quite large, had a sitting area, ensuite bathroom with a large shower and an obstructed view terrace. We could sit outside and see the sea through the glass sides of a lifeboat. Not being athletic, I didn’t think that if the need arose I could sprint and leap into the lifeboat. The obstructed view cost less and since we were rarely there was inconsequential.

Room Service Breakfast was off the menu and delish.

Every day a new slick printed trifold was placed on our newly made bed. It contained the schedule for the next day. the “Daily Programme” had nautical information, What to Wear advice for the day – Smart Attire please – and a complete list of activities. Frankly, we never went to see a show – back to the bar after our late night dinner. Never went to the interesting lectures. Never went to the dance and exercise classes. Never went to the painting and arts based classes. Never went into the empty casino. Never went into the all night long disco. Never went – well you get my drift. Passengers who were looking to use the voyage as a “cruise vacation” were not disappointed. I used the seven days as a writer’s retreat and finished a short story and three blogs. Jack and I also enjoyed exploring the nooks and crannies of the ship.

During the day there were lots of seats in the casino.

Based on how much one pays for a cabin, a restaurant is assigned. We were assigned to the Britannia Club and were never disappointed. The menu changed daily, was interesting, delicious and beautifully presented. Famished when we embarked (look I used the fancy word again) we foolishly went to the Kings Court Buffet. Crowds, grabbing a table, I thought I was in a college cafeteria. It was lovely to look at but we are foodie snobs so the buffet never saw us again. For up charges there were alternative dining options. We toyed with trying them but the food in the Britannia Club was so good, I didn’t see the need to.

Room Service was included in the base price. Every morning we got up when we felt like it, didn’t rush to a restaurant and had a scrumptious breakfast delivered. Portions were small – think tapas – and interesting takes on eggs.

We did go to the famous daily Afternoon Tea. Obviously it was a tasty treat for all. Sadly, waiters came around with carafes of tea, trays of different sandwiches, savories and pastries. I thought we were in a dim sum restaurant. I miss the tower and my own pot of tea.

Knowing we were not the soft drink kind of folks, we opted to pay $1008 for unlimited spirits, specialty beverages and more. I know, $72 a day each sounds like a ridiculous price until I started asking obnoxious questions. How much is a martini made with Hendricks? What do you charge for a cappuccino, sparkling mineral water, etc. Bar prices are the same as a New York City or London Hotel Bar. Yes, they charged for mineral water. If a glass of wine is $14 and Jack has two at lunch and three at dinner, we would spend $70. Now, add on the four bottles of mineral water, three cappuccini and toss in an espresso or two and he made the daily price point. Without worry and the tips are included. Frankly, we did spend a lot of time in the various bars and the coffee house. When we flashed our card with the pre-pay stamp we were treated incredibly well. Another incentive to hang out in the bars was the music. Jazz, harpist, light rock, Irish Shanties – music matched the tone of the bar. Sigh, I do miss that.

Bar Table With a View Worth Drinking For.

Was the adventure organized to my obnoxious management standards? Hmm. Yes and no. I would have appreciated some of the information we received on the ship in advance. When we arrived at our cabin we found information about where to eat, how to turn on internet, where do I get my key etc. I would have appreciated the first day schedule in advance. At the Brooklyn Pier, our luggage was whisked out of the car and directly to our cabin. I thought how spot on! What wasn’t spot on was the long cue to show one’s passport and tickets. No one explained in advance that there would be an incredible amount of walking to board the vessel. Jack has a squirrely back and we order an airport wheelchair for him. If I had been forewarned, I would have ordered a wheelchair at the pier . Disembarking was the same forced long march out.

The WIFI was another annoying issue. One must pay the evil StarLink for the service. I paid, and couldn’t get it to work. Obviously, hordes of other folks couldn’t get it to work and on day one we all cued up at the ConneXions Desk. There should have been more people working. After two days of writing, I realized I couldn’t upload anything. Now even more annoyed, I went to the purser’s station and stood in another long line to discover that for a few pounds a day more the wifi would work perfectly. I can’t remember what the uncharge was but hey…

The disembarking including our luggage being whisked out to the transportation center. We found our bags and then lugged them to a bus. Cunard for $90 a person will transport folks to Heathrow. I will never take the bus again. My short legs and big butt make climbing into a high bus and up stairs to the seats a nightmare. Lugging my computer bag down the narrow aisle wasn’t pleasant either. Next time, I would price out a car service to the airport. We spied small groups getting into bigger taxi style vehicles. The driver was helpful at the airport and made sure our luggage made it to the curb.

What did I learn? I learned that the Queen Mary 2, for some passengers, is a commuter ferry. Seriously, a lot of the people I met used the QM2 to get from one content to the other for work. The library on the ship has work stations with ocean views and unless I got there early enough, they were all taken with folks typing away. Someone said to me, they get a lot of work done on the crossing and arrive refreshed and ready to go.

I learned, not quite as bad as an airport, but you still have to wait in uncomfortable lines to get on and get off – excuse me embark and disembark. At least all of the staff was “Disney” smiling and happy.

People are wonderful and interesting. Traveling slowly across the sea provides an opportunity to really chat and get to know people’s stories. The Irish American sisters who visit Ireland annually and regaled us with village tales. They were from a county that butts the county that Jack’s clan is from. The Italian American couple who spend six months a year in Puglia were charming and fun to sit and laugh with in two languages. The Irish woman and her young son were a joy to play with. The world travelers who gave us hints for getting the most out of the QM2. And so many more.

I also learned that being in a cocoon of comfort was a catalyst for my creativity. Since I had been blogging about my Nonna’s journey, I wrote a non-fiction short story about my Aunt Cat. Hmm, a writer’s retreat on a cruise ship? What an idea waiting for someone to organize.

Would I do it again? If the total price point was right, I would do it again. When flights out of Newark, NJ were being cancelled, I started trying to get a flight out of Philadelphia or JFK. The price for premium economy or business class on short notice was the cost of my first car. Then, I get this promotional email from Cunard – last minute deals on cruises. The base fare for a great room with an obstructed view was $859 a person. If we didn’t like bar life or needed wifi, we could have gotten away with that low price. I added on Cunard Care – health insurance and evacuation for 74.27 each. The bus to Heathrow was $90. Then there were taxes. The cost for two people was $2,046.54.

Being math deficient, I had a team of people help me reach the conclusion that adding the spirits package, $17 a day tips, wifi and cheap flight to Naples to the base price the total cost of our voyage for two from Ewing to Pontelandolfo cost us less than one first class last minute ticket on an airplane.

Soooooo, would we do it again? Does Cunard offer discounts to commuters? We are investigating what the seas are like in November and you might find me staring out that QM2 bar window again.

Ci Vediamo prossima volta,

Midge Guerrera

PS. There is still time to come and Cook in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo.

Will I See You in Pontelandolfo?

Sigh, I can see the steam floating up from my perfect cappuccino at Cafe Style. My wallet is thrilled that we can go to Bar Elimar for a scrumptious homemade lunch and spend a scant €15 for two people. Jack’s nose is yearning to smell the bouquet of the featured wines at Ponte Simone. We both have saved up our pennies for a night out at Tãwa, the glorious sushi restaurant, in Piazza Roma.

Do I sound homesick? I am, I am! Soon we will be back home in Pontelandolfo and I can’t wait.

Will we see you there? In 2025 we have two incredible opportunities for you to become a part of our village. Cook in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo – May 17th to the 24th or September 6th to the 13th! This yummy program has been bringing smiles to the faces of culinary adventurers since 2016. (Not bragging, but last year we got a tourism award.) Check out the videos on the website – lots of food, laughter, and community. Then register and join the fans.

Follow your Creative Muse to Pontelandolfo

Our newest adventure is literally literature. Toss your laptop in a bag and participate in our 2025 Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hills. This Writer’s Retreat runs from June 21 to June 28th. Authors can soak up the atmosphere and work on their craft with Amy Scott of Scott Editorial.

All of the adventures start with a bar crawl. ‘Midge, Midge,” you are thinking, “a bar crawl is soooo sophomoric.” Nah! It is anything but sophomoric. What an incredible way to explore different parts of the village, meet locals and gain an understanding of village life.

Our very first group of writers joined the village in 2024. Playwrights organized by the New Jersey non profit – Write Where You Are. They wrote. They flourished. They conquered.

Will I see you in Pontelandolfo? Questions?

Ci vediamo!

Midge

Ten Things Tourists Need to Know

In the spring, summer and fall of 2024 our house in the hills was rocking with out of towners. For ten years, we asked, cajoled, begged and pleaded family and friends to please come and visit us in Pontelandolfo. Hardly anyone did. As years passed, no one did. This past year everyone did. We were so booked that we had a paper calendar on the kitchen wall with days blocked off and names scribbled in, scribbled out and new ones scribbled in. I felt like our door was not just revolving but always open.

Shut the door you’re letting the flies in. Shut the door you’re letting the cold in.

That said, we were happy to have a full house. We saw people we hadn’t seen in years. Catching up is always fun. I hope this summer we get just as many guests.

What an enormous bugia! Most days I was happy to have a full house. Other days, I took my computer and hid in a bar.

Come on Midge, every experience no matter how frustrating is an opportunity to learn. I learned that there is a lot to learn. Having all these folks passing through and me shaking my head like an insane Auntie M, I realized that there were things that guests, retreat participants, culinary tourists and everyone who visits us needed to know.

One of Jack’s cousins suggested I was doing my readers a disservice by not sharing my incredible knowledge of random and useless facts about traveling. She encouraged me to come up with a list of Ten Things Tourists and Guests coming to Pontelandolfo need to know. This suggestion was given after I looked at her with a raised eyebrow and said, you don’t have a debit card? How could you come to Europe and not have a debit card? Gulp, I need to work on may people skills.

Deciding to take the task seriously, and with her input, I riffed on things I noticed people having a problem with. Ta, da – Here is my arbitrary and lightly sarcastic list of Ten Things Tourists Need to Know:

  1. No one here wants your American dollars. Even the local banks don’t want to exchange your dollars for euros. Unless you are washing your cash, why would you bring a sack of dollars? Bring a sack of euros. Stuff them in your bra. That’s what I do. When in Italy use euros. The 1950s ugly American idea that the entire world craves “American Money” is over. About 25 years ago, my father joined us on an excursion to Pontelandolfo. He knew that the kids in our extended family were in college so he brought a stack of $50 bills to give as gifts. Every single kid said thank you, looked at the bill, looked at me and raised an eyebrow. Unless you were in a big city there was no way to change the dollars.

2. Make sure you have a working debit card. With a debit card you can go to any automatic teller machine and get the best exchange rates on the currency of the country you are visiting. I take that back. Only go to bank automatic teller machines not the ones named after someone’s pet cat. When you get a debit card or if you have one but haven’t used it out of the country, call your bank and make sure it works abroad. I had a panicked cousin who had just gotten a debit card and discovered it would’t work anywhere but at her bank. An irate call to the bank unearthed that the card didn’t work because it wasn’t a debit/credit card. She ended up borrowing euros.

3. Beware of the seemingly friendly offer to charge you for your purchase on line, in a store and/or at an automatic teller machine in US dollars. You will be screwed on the exchange rate. Make sure you click euros. Your bank will do the exchange at a better rate.

4. Use your credit card not your debit card to buy stuff. Credit cards in a store or restaurant provide a more secure way to shop. Credit card companies will usually refund, cancel and harness the creeps who steal your info. This advice does not come from me. I can barely add. It comes from my banker and numerous articles I’ve read from credible sources. And, some cretin did steal my credit card number and used the card/number to buy breakfast everyday at the same bar in Campobasso. Yes, they were caught and yes, my bank handled everything.

5. Please don’t be a creepy traveler (especially in Pontelandolfo where I know everyone) and use a credit card in a small local caffe or shop for a cup of coffee and a biscotti. My personal guideline is if it is less than €25 I pay in cash.

6. Double check all the adapters for your electronic devices. Not every country abroad has the same plug configuration. “What, I used this in Germany, why the @$#% doesn’t it work in Italy.” Because you are in Italy not Germany. Depending on where you are, it might be difficult to get the correct adapter.

7. Make sure your bags make it directly to your final destination. Airline and airport blues make the beginning of your trip a nightmare. Guests have told me that they missed flights to Naples because they had to get their checked bags in another European country and go through control again before boarding their flight to Naples. I then ask the same question. Were you flying on two different airlines? Don’t. For example, we would fly Lufthansa from Newark, New Jersey to Naples, Italy. We changed planes in Frankfurt. Our bags came all the way through to Naples. If we had flown airline A from the USA to the EU and then a different airline to our final destination, the odds are we would have had to get our bags and schlepp them to the second airline. Double check when booking your flight. I always ask, ”the bags go all the way through, correct.” Yes, I book flights on line but being anal, I also call the airlines.

8. Pack less not more. Jack just asked, how do you know what you need until you get there. Jack also said, if you forget something you can buy it. Sigh. I tend to overpack or rather over pile stuff on the bed and then toss out half. Packing cubes are incredible. I’ve got both compression and regular cubes. Sorting your clothes can be particularly useful if you are moving from city to city. I sort, because my type A personality likes clothes organized by type. Ladies, gulp, maybe it is because I am in my third act, but I discovered that sanitary napkins are a life saver on many counts. I am able to wear a pair of trousers more days using sanitary napkins. (Shhhh, that is a secret.)

9. Make sure you have a working phone. Don’t cheap out and think you can just keep your phone in airplane mode and/or just use wi-fi. We have had folks stranded at the train station with no way to contact us. When you are in a Wi-Fi zone it is easy to use free services – like Apple to Apple texting and FaceTime. Many Italians, us included, use WhatsApp. WhatsApp is even used by doctors and businesses here. For clarity of sound, I’ve discovered that Facebook messenger is incredible for calling pals in the USA. Again, don’t only rely on Wi-Fi as your only means of communication. Pay the fee to have international access or buy a SIM card wherever you are. A digital warrior who lives here has another hack. She bought a rechargeable portable hotspot. Hence, WiFi everywhere she goes.

10. This is a biggy. Make sure your passport is up to date and doesn’t expire within a three month window of your trip. I have no idea why that rule exists. Could someone explain it to all of us? It seems to me, something expires when it expires but who am I to have an opinion. A young relative of mine slated to visit us last year, discovered his passport would be in the unusable two month window. He had to fly to another state to go to an in-person passport center and get his new passport in one day. Yikes! Though, thinking about it, not being able to get home might start a new adventure.

NOW LET’S TALK ABOUT COMING TO PONTELANDOLFO THIS YEAR!

Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo is a magical experience that started in 2016. Last year we even won an award. We have a session in May and another in September.


2025 Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hills is our second writer’s retreat. Last year Pontelandolfo hosted playwrights who raved about the experience. This June, creative writers are encouraged to spend time with us.

Hope to see you this summer in Pontelandolfo.

Ci vediamo a presto.

Midge

Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hills

I can’t believe our first playwright’s retreat has just ended and I am about to blab on about 2025. How could I not?! The playwrights who just left after their ten day writing adventure were effusive in their praise. (When I get their video done, I will write about their catalysts for creativity – like my falling in a deep hole during their ruzzolo, cheese rolling game.) Back to 2025!

Literally Italy (that’s my new moniker) and Scott Editorial put their heads together and came up with a writer’s retreat with a few twists.  2025 Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hills takes its name from the rifugi, mountain huts that provided a haven for shepherds.  Dear writers, imagine a nurturing sanctuary that provides the time and place to work on your creative projects. In addition to time for your own daily writing, workshops, group feedback, and one-on-one critique sessions will support your work. The best part is, you are able to write in a villa, in a bar, outdoors and wherever your muse takes you. The June 21 to June 28 retreat is only open to eight writers.

The “Write Where Your Are” 2024 Playwrights enjoyed writing through out two villages.

Participants in the 2025 Writers’ Refuge in Sannio Hills will share large, double rooms with ensuite bathrooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa, a unique villa built into a mountain on acres of land. The villa includes a swimming pool, tennis court, washing machine, and park like grounds that are minutes from Pontelandolfo and Morcone village life. Savory meals are cooked by an Italian chef using local produce.  Our chef spoiled the playwrights with homemade pasta, interesting sides and succulent roasted meats. The Tiramisu was incredible! Nothing came in a box or wrapped in plastic. This is Southern Italian farm to table home cooking. She will spoil those who come to the Refuge too.

The Italian landscape and village life are inspirational.  For additional character studies, shuttles will bring you and your computer to Pontelandolfo’s Piazza Roma caffès or the bars a bit further out of town. Imagine sitting in a sunny piazza, sipping Prosecco and finishing that novel, short story or memoir. Or imagine wending your way up the hill to Morcone’s historic center and sharing work in this cool bar.

Amy Scott, the founder of Scott Editorial, will lead the writers’ retreat. Amy is a PhD candidate with a Master’s in Creative & Critical Writing and a BA in English Literature. With 20 years’ experience editing fiction and non-fiction, she has gained extensive knowledge of both the self-publishing and traditional sectors of the industry. For the last four years, she has been running writers’ retreats in Italy and the UK and is a guest lecturer on undergraduate and postgraduate courses, teaching the importance of editing. This year, Scott Editorial has joined forces with the University of Gloucestershire, where, along with a selection of creative writing professors, Amy is delivering workshops to help new authors develop their craft.

Literally Italy is the American company founded by Midge Guerrera – that’s me.  You all know that I’m a published author of numerous books and plays. The retreat gives me time to work on that next epic. Our team knows how to produce a retreat. Remember along with Rossella and Annarita Mancini, I’m the founder of the award-winning program, Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo.  That local team will be the on-site organizers for the retreat.

Here is what you get for one fee:

  • Round Trip Transportation from the Benevento Train Station.
  • 7 nights in shared, large double rooms with unique, architecturally-appointed ensuite bathrooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa. Enjoy the swimming pool, tennis court and trails. (There is also an optional 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom village apartment for 2 to 3 participants in the historic village center.)
  • All meals cooked by an Italian chef. Vegetarians can be accommodated.
  • Four morning workshop sessions, including “Location as a Character” that will be held at the Altilia Saepinum Archeological site.
  • Daily group critique sessions
  • 1-to-1 personal critique sessions – on your schedule.
  • Welcoming “Bar Crawl” –  Drinks and local snacks included. Discover off-site places to write while absorbing local Italian culture. Transportation to bars provided daily.

We are organizing cultural add ons too. I can tell the interested writers all about those. For now, shoot me an email at info@nonnasmulberrytree.com for more information. Remember this is limited to only EIGHT WRITERS.

Ci Vediamo.

Midge

Tawā Sushi Comes to Pontelandolfo

When Jack and I started this Italian life-style journey 10 years ago there were three things we missed about living in New Jersey – our family and friends, Jersey sweet corn and SUSHI. By our second year in Pontelandolfo, we were – ok I was – so jonesing for sushi that I insisted we search near and far for a restaurant. That year the only sushi joint we found was in Avallino and the sushi was not anything we would eat again. Thing sugar rice -yuck. I sighed. I cried and I wished on every star.

The stars came through! Giuseppe Sforza, an exceptional restaurateur, opened a world class sushi restaurant in – wait for it – hear me exploding with joy – in my home town!

Joy!!!!

Tawā, which means tower, sits under Pontelandolfo’s iconic tower and offers a world class experience. We knew it would. Giuseppe had been the proprietor of Landulphi a Latin themed pub. Latin like the language of our Italian ancestors. The menu was in Latin (with pictures), the waitstaff wore appropriate costumes, I mean uniforms, only beer was served and the food was fantastic. It was incredibly successful. A new version is being built in our historic center. But back to sushi. Tawā has been about a year in the making. Giuseppe is a stickler for detain and, even though I begged and pleaded and texted and shouted, he wouldn’t open until every detail was perfect.

Giuseppe, bless his heart, invited us to the prova. The night the chef and staff practice and get all the kinks out. It was a night to remember. What a gift of goodness. We learned that night that Tawā has a fixed price menu. No, not that plebeian all you can eat kind of fixed price but an opportunity to explore the delectable treats the chef is making daily based on the market and his muse.

We have been gastronomically entranced by the Percorso Tradizionale. Our first tasting was at the prova. We loved it so much we went back one day after Tawā opened to feast again. There were more courses than I could count and I was to busy groaning with happiness to take pictures of everything.

The wee bowl of white soup was magical. Fish broth with a hint of salsa di soia melded with a whipped egg and steamed, looked like the smoothest of flans. When the spoon pierced the cream, broth oozed up giving my tastebuds a smooth yet soupy feel. It was delightfully decadent. The salad, in the adjacent photo was celery, carrots and seaweed. Whoever sliced the celery into long thin lettuce like strips is a king with a knife. The sesame dressing rocked it.I loved every morsel.

Yes, of course there was sashimi and sushi nigiri. I particularly was impressed with the raw scallops served in the shell and topped with a frothy essence of the sea.

I better stop talking about the food, I am getting hungry and I am not close enough to Pontelandolfo to zip in, sit at the sushi bar, order a glass of wine and the apertivo. But domani!

Tawā is an asset to Piazza Roma. Giuseppe is great at marketing and people will visit our village from afar. I am so thankful to him for providing me with one of the things I miss most about New Jersey.

Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Midge

Literally Italy LLC
Stay tuned for our latest venture. Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo is more than just cooking. Playwrights Retreat is happening now and a Writer’s Retreat is on the schedule for June 2025! Visual artists may be next!