Sigh, I can see the steam floating up from my perfect cappuccino at Cafe Style. My wallet is thrilled that we can go to Bar Elimar for a scrumptious homemade lunch and spend a scant €15 for two people. Jack’s nose is yearning to smell the bouquet of the featured wines at Ponte Simone. We both have saved up our pennies for a night out at Tãwa, the glorious sushi restaurant, in Piazza Roma.
Do I sound homesick? I am, I am! Soon we will be back home in Pontelandolfo and I can’t wait.
Will we see you there? In 2025 we have two incredible opportunities for you to become a part of our village. Cook in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo – May 17th to the 24th or September 6th to the 13th! This yummy program has been bringing smiles to the faces of culinary adventurers since 2016. (Not bragging, but last year we got a tourism award.) Check out the videos on the website – lots of food, laughter, and community. Then register and join the fans.
Follow your Creative Muse to Pontelandolfo
Our newest adventure is literally literature. Toss your laptop in a bag and participate in our 2025 Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hills. This Writer’s Retreat runs from June 21 to June 28th. Authors can soak up the atmosphere and work on their craft with Amy Scott of Scott Editorial.
All of the adventures start with a bar crawl. ‘Midge, Midge,” you are thinking, “a bar crawl is soooo sophomoric.” Nah! It is anything but sophomoric. What an incredible way to explore different parts of the village, meet locals and gain an understanding of village life.
Our very first group of writers joined the village in 2024. Playwrights organized by the New Jersey non profit – Write Where You Are. They wrote. They flourished. They conquered.
In the spring, summer and fall of 2024 our house in the hills was rocking with out of towners. For ten years, we asked, cajoled, begged and pleaded family and friends to please come and visit us in Pontelandolfo. Hardly anyone did. As years passed, no one did. This past year everyone did. We were so booked that we had a paper calendar on the kitchen wall with days blocked off and names scribbled in, scribbled out and new ones scribbled in. I felt like our door was not just revolving but always open.
Shut the door you’re letting the flies in. Shut the door you’re letting the cold in.
That said, we were happy to have a full house. We saw people we hadn’t seen in years. Catching up is always fun. I hope this summer we get just as many guests.
What an enormous bugia! Most days I was happy to have a full house. Other days, I took my computer and hid in a bar.
Come on Midge, every experience no matter how frustrating is an opportunity to learn. I learned that there is a lot to learn. Having all these folks passing through and me shaking my head like an insane Auntie M, I realized that there were things that guests, retreat participants, culinary tourists and everyone who visits us needed to know.
One of Jack’s cousins suggested I was doing my readers a disservice by not sharing my incredible knowledge of random and useless facts about traveling. She encouraged me to come up with a list of Ten Things Tourists and Guests coming to Pontelandolfo need to know. This suggestion was given after I looked at her with a raised eyebrow and said, you don’t have a debit card? How could you come to Europe and not have a debit card? Gulp, I need to work on may people skills.
Deciding to take the task seriously, and with her input, I riffed on things I noticed people having a problem with. Ta, da – Here is my arbitrary and lightly sarcastic list of Ten Things Tourists Need to Know:
No one here wants your American dollars. Even the local banks don’t want to exchange your dollars for euros. Unless you are washing your cash, why would you bring a sack of dollars? Bring a sack of euros. Stuff them in your bra. That’s what I do. When in Italy use euros. The 1950s ugly American idea that the entire world craves “American Money” is over. About 25 years ago, my father joined us on an excursion to Pontelandolfo. He knew that the kids in our extended family were in college so he brought a stack of $50 bills to give as gifts. Every single kid said thank you, looked at the bill, looked at me and raised an eyebrow. Unless you were in a big city there was no way to change the dollars.
2. Make sure you have a working debit card. With a debit card you can go to any automatic teller machine and get the best exchange rates on the currency of the country you are visiting. I take that back. Only go to bank automatic teller machines not the ones named after someone’s pet cat. When you get a debit card or if you have one but haven’t used it out of the country, call your bank and make sure it works abroad. I had a panicked cousin who had just gotten a debit card and discovered it would’t work anywhere but at her bank. An irate call to the bank unearthed that the card didn’t work because it wasn’t a debit/credit card. She ended up borrowing euros.
3. Beware of the seemingly friendly offer to charge you for your purchase on line, in a store and/or at an automatic teller machine in US dollars. You will be screwed on the exchange rate. Make sure you click euros. Your bank will do the exchange at a better rate.
4. Use your credit card not your debit card to buy stuff. Credit cards in a store or restaurant provide a more secure way to shop. Credit card companies will usually refund, cancel and harness the creeps who steal your info. This advice does not come from me. I can barely add. It comes from my banker and numerous articles I’ve read from credible sources. And, some cretin did steal my credit card number and used the card/number to buy breakfast everyday at the same bar in Campobasso. Yes, they were caught and yes, my bank handled everything.
5. Please don’t be a creepy traveler (especially in Pontelandolfo where I know everyone) and use a credit card in a small local caffe or shop for a cup of coffee and a biscotti. My personal guideline is if it is less than €25 I pay in cash.
6. Double check all the adapters for your electronic devices. Not every country abroad has the same plug configuration. “What, I used this in Germany, why the @$#% doesn’t it work in Italy.” Because you are in Italy not Germany. Depending on where you are, it might be difficult to get the correct adapter.
7. Make sure your bags make it directly to your final destination. Airline and airport blues make the beginning of your trip a nightmare. Guests have told me that they missed flights to Naples because they had to get their checked bags in another European country and go through control again before boarding their flight to Naples. I then ask the same question. Were you flying on two different airlines? Don’t. For example, we would fly Lufthansa from Newark, New Jersey to Naples, Italy. We changed planes in Frankfurt. Our bags came all the way through to Naples. If we had flown airline A from the USA to the EU and then a different airline to our final destination, the odds are we would have had to get our bags and schlepp them to the second airline. Double check when booking your flight. I always ask, ”the bags go all the way through, correct.” Yes, I book flights on line but being anal, I also call the airlines.
8. Pack less not more. Jack just asked, how do you know what you need until you get there. Jack also said, if you forget something you can buy it. Sigh. I tend to overpack or rather over pile stuff on the bed and then toss out half. Packing cubes are incredible. I’ve got both compression and regular cubes. Sorting your clothes can be particularly useful if you are moving from city to city. I sort, because my type A personality likes clothes organized by type. Ladies, gulp, maybe it is because I am in my third act, but I discovered that sanitary napkins are a life saver on many counts. I am able to wear a pair of trousers more days using sanitary napkins. (Shhhh, that is a secret.)
9. Make sure you have a working phone. Don’t cheap out and think you can just keep your phone in airplane mode and/or just use wi-fi. We have had folks stranded at the train station with no way to contact us. When you are in a Wi-Fi zone it is easy to use free services – like Apple to Apple texting and FaceTime. Many Italians, us included, use WhatsApp. WhatsApp is even used by doctors and businesses here. For clarity of sound, I’ve discovered that Facebook messenger is incredible for calling pals in the USA. Again, don’t only rely on Wi-Fi as your only means of communication. Pay the fee to have international access or buy a SIM card wherever you are. A digital warrior who lives here has another hack. She bought a rechargeable portable hotspot. Hence, WiFi everywhere she goes.
10. This is a biggy. Make sure your passport is up to date and doesn’t expire within a three month window of your trip. I have no idea why that rule exists. Could someone explain it to all of us? It seems to me, something expires when it expires but who am I to have an opinion. A young relative of mine slated to visit us last year, discovered his passport would be in the unusable two month window. He had to fly to another state to go to an in-person passport center and get his new passport in one day. Yikes! Though, thinking about it, not being able to get home might start a new adventure.
NOW LET’S TALK ABOUT COMING TO PONTELANDOLFO THIS YEAR!
Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo is a magical experience that started in 2016. Last year we even won an award. We have a session in May and another in September.
2025 Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hillsis our second writer’s retreat. Last year Pontelandolfo hosted playwrights who raved about the experience. This June, creative writers are encouraged to spend time with us.
I can’t believe our first playwright’s retreat has just ended and I am about to blab on about 2025. How could I not?! The playwrights who just left after their ten day writing adventure were effusive in their praise. (When I get their video done, I will write about their catalysts for creativity – like my falling in a deep hole during their ruzzolo, cheese rolling game.) Back to 2025!
Literally Italy (that’s my new moniker) and Scott Editorial put their heads together and came up with a writer’s retreat with a few twists.2025 Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hills takes its name from the rifugi, mountain huts that provided a haven for shepherds. Dear writers, imagine a nurturing sanctuary that provides the time and place to work on your creative projects. In addition to time for your own daily writing, workshops, group feedback, and one-on-one critique sessions will support your work. The best part is, you are able to write in a villa, in a bar, outdoors and wherever your muse takes you. The June 21 to June 28 retreat is only open to eight writers.
The “Write Where Your Are” 2024 Playwrights enjoyed writing through out two villages.
Participants in the 2025 Writers’ Refuge in Sannio Hillswill share large, double rooms with ensuite bathrooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa, a unique villa built into a mountain on acres of land. The villa includes a swimming pool, tennis court, washing machine, and park like grounds that are minutes from Pontelandolfo and Morcone village life. Savory meals are cooked by an Italian chef using local produce. Our chef spoiled the playwrights with homemade pasta, interesting sides and succulent roasted meats. The Tiramisu was incredible! Nothing came in a box or wrapped in plastic. This is Southern Italian farm to table home cooking. She will spoil those who come to the Refuge too.
The Italian landscape and village life are inspirational. For additional character studies, shuttles will bring you and your computer to Pontelandolfo’s Piazza Roma caffès or the bars a bit further out of town. Imagine sitting in a sunny piazza, sipping Prosecco and finishing that novel, short story or memoir. Or imagine wending your way up the hill to Morcone’s historic center and sharing work in this cool bar.
Amy Scott, the founder of Scott Editorial, will lead the writers’ retreat. Amy is a PhD candidate with a Master’s in Creative & Critical Writing and a BA in English Literature. With 20 years’ experience editing fiction and non-fiction, she has gained extensive knowledge of both the self-publishing and traditional sectors of the industry. For the last four years, she has been running writers’ retreats in Italy and the UK and is a guest lecturer on undergraduate and postgraduate courses, teaching the importance of editing. This year, Scott Editorial has joined forces with the University of Gloucestershire, where, along with a selection of creative writing professors, Amy is delivering workshops to help new authors develop their craft.
Literally Italy is the American company founded by Midge Guerrera – that’s me. You all know that I’m a published author of numerous books and plays. The retreat gives me time to work on that next epic. Our team knows how to produce a retreat. Remember along with Rossella and Annarita Mancini, I’m the founder of the award-winning program, Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo. That local team will be the on-site organizers for the retreat.
Here is what you get for one fee:
Round Trip Transportation from the Benevento Train Station.
7 nights in shared, large double rooms with unique, architecturally-appointed ensuite bathrooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa. Enjoy the swimming pool, tennis court and trails. (There is also an optional 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom village apartment for 2 to 3 participants in the historic village center.)
All meals cooked by an Italian chef. Vegetarians can be accommodated.
Four morning workshop sessions, including “Location as a Character” that will be held at the Altilia Saepinum Archeological site.
Daily group critique sessions
1-to-1 personal critique sessions – on your schedule.
Welcoming “Bar Crawl” – Drinks and local snacks included. Discover off-site places to write while absorbing local Italian culture. Transportation to bars provided daily.
We are organizing cultural add ons too. I can tell the interested writers all about those. For now, shoot me an email at info@nonnasmulberrytree.com for more information. Remember this is limited to only EIGHT WRITERS.
When Jack and I started this Italian life-style journey 10 years ago there were three things we missed about living in New Jersey – our family and friends, Jersey sweet corn and SUSHI. By our second year in Pontelandolfo, we were – ok I was – so jonesing for sushi that I insisted we search near and far for a restaurant. That year the only sushi joint we found was in Avallino and the sushi was not anything we would eat again. Thing sugar rice -yuck. I sighed. I cried and I wished on every star.
The stars came through! Giuseppe Sforza, an exceptional restaurateur, opened a world class sushi restaurant in – wait for it – hear me exploding with joy – in my home town!
Joy!!!!
Tawā, which means tower, sits under Pontelandolfo’s iconic tower and offers a world class experience. We knew it would. Giuseppe had been the proprietor of Landulphi a Latin themed pub. Latin like the language of our Italian ancestors. The menu was in Latin (with pictures), the waitstaff wore appropriate costumes, I mean uniforms, only beer was served and the food was fantastic. It was incredibly successful. A new version is being built in our historic center. But back to sushi. Tawā has been about a year in the making. Giuseppe is a stickler for detain and, even though I begged and pleaded and texted and shouted, he wouldn’t open until every detail was perfect.
Signage to guide you!LA StyleOpening night a grand piano appears in the piazza.
Giuseppe, bless his heart, invited us to the prova. The night the chef and staff practice and get all the kinks out. It was a night to remember. What a gift of goodness. We learned that night that Tawā has a fixed price menu. No, not that plebeian all you can eat kind of fixed price but an opportunity to explore the delectable treats the chef is making daily based on the market and his muse.
We have been gastronomically entranced by the Percorso Tradizionale. Our first tasting was at the prova. We loved it so much we went back one day after Tawā opened to feast again. There were more courses than I could count and I was to busy groaning with happiness to take pictures of everything.
Follow for Sushi!
The wee bowl of white soup was magical. Fish broth with a hint of salsa di soia melded with a whipped egg and steamed, looked like the smoothest of flans. When the spoon pierced the cream, broth oozed up giving my tastebuds a smooth yet soupy feel. It was delightfully decadent. The salad, in the adjacent photo was celery, carrots and seaweed. Whoever sliced the celery into long thin lettuce like strips is a king with a knife. The sesame dressing rocked it.I loved every morsel.
Yes, of course there was sashimi and sushi nigiri. I particularly was impressed with the raw scallops served in the shell and topped with a frothy essence of the sea.
I better stop talking about the food, I am getting hungry and I am not close enough to Pontelandolfo to zip in, sit at the sushi bar, order a glass of wine and the apertivo. But domani!
Tawā is an asset to Piazza Roma. Giuseppe is great at marketing and people will visit our village from afar. I am so thankful to him for providing me with one of the things I miss most about New Jersey.
Literally Italy LLC Stay tuned for our latest venture. Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo is more than just cooking. Playwrights Retreat is happening now and a Writer’s Retreat is on the schedule for June 2025! Visual artists may be next!
Annarita Mancini, my cultural adventures partner, and I were invited to talk about Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo
Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo started in 2016. Rossella Mancini and I gathered up a group of exciting and creative cooks to share their skills with culinary adventurers from all over the United States. How did this idea come about? Was I a tourism creative genius? Like most good ideas there was a catalyst that kicked my ass into creative action. Two women with roots in Pontelandolfo were the absolute catalyst for this initiative. Mary and Leona, while visiting the village of their heritage and saying hi to my next door neighbors, literally recognized me.
After looking around to see if she was talking to someone else, I grinned like I just won a blog Emmy and said, “gulp, yes.” (I also realized I was in a very old and ugly house dress.)
“We love your blog and are so jealous. I wish I could live here like you and meet everyone.”
“Even for a week,” said her friend.
“But you can I said!” Not knowing what I was committing too, my theatre brain started improvising.
“How?”
Out of my mouth came – “Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo – a new program. Give me your email addresses and I’ll send you the information.”
I tossed on better clothes and dashed to Rossella’s house. Five coffees later, our brain cells were whirling and twirling in the Sannio Hills. 1. Idea was solidified. 2. Organized an army of – hate to be sexist but – women. 3. Meet with those women who would be the first home chefs, hook Annarita Mancini our ace multi lingua person as our primary translator, set a cultural track and bammmmmmm – Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo was born and off!!!! It took a village and still does. Thank you to every cook, translator, historian, cultural group and more. Thank you to all.
From Saturday, May 21 to Saturday May 28, 2016 culinary and cultural adventurers participated in the first ever Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo program. Four of the eight participants had direct Pontelandolfo roots. The other women discovered our village for the first time.
OUR FIRST WONDERFUL GROUP OF 2016 ADVENTURERS – Mary, Leona, Nancy, Dana, Charleen, Eloise, Flora and Lynn! GRAZIE A TUTTI!
This tourism initiative may have its roots in Pontelandolfo but introduces people to the Sannio Hills. Since 2016, the majority of men and women who have used this program to explore our region have been foreigners, without any family history in the area. After one week, those strangers feel not only like family but like proud Pontelandolfese. The international program has grown because those strangers have told other strangers, have told other strangers – and the beat goes on.
At that August 9th jam packed presentation, Annarita and I were stunned when Morcone’s Assessore of Tourism, Giulia Ocone, came up to the microphone with this –
Holey Moley! I actually CRIED!
Grazie al Comune de Morcone, Luigino Ciarlo sindaco, Giulia Ocone Assessore alla cultura, Daria Lepore di il giornali – La Cittadella, e Carlo Perugini per aver creduto in quello che faccio.
Un ringraziamento speciale ai donatori – finanziato dall’ Unione euorpea – Next Generation EU, Ministero degli affari esterni e della cooperativa internazionale, ministero della cultura.
Thank you to Comune de Morcone, Luigino Ciarlo mayor, Giulia Ocone council member for culture, Daria Lepore of the newspaper – La Cittadella, and Carlo Perugini for believing in what I do.
A special thanks to the donors – finanziato dall’ Unione euorpea – Next Generation EU, Ministero degli affair esterni e della cooperative internazionale, and the ministero della cultura.
WOW Midge, I hope you remembered everyone! If you don’t know what Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo is watch this –
Interested in being part of the 2025 adventure? Send me an email at info@nonnasmulberrytree.com.
Jack and I are blessed to be part of the fabric of life here in the Sannio Hills. Thank you to all who have embraced us and embrace my crazy ideas. Thank you for the town of Morcone for recognizing what we have done. Ancora, grazie a tutti.
Three Cs for the discerning tourist. Culinary treats, Cultural experiences and Cursing in a new language – complete with gestures. Vafan#@$%!
Did she say cursing adventures? Our sweet American lady in her third act would never suggest one come to Pontelandolfo to learn to flip the bird in another language. Midge would never ever simply curse in another language!
Dear readers, I might curse in multi languages at the same time, but is that really the same as cursing in another language which implies one language? 🤣
Sigh… The title for this concept was not my idea. For this new tourism initiative, I must give credit where credit is due. It was the idea of the witty, wise and wee bit snarky women from Baltimore who were here for our last Cooking in the Kitchen of Pontelandolfo experience. One of them suggested that the name for our activity should be the three cs culinary, cultural and cursing adventures. Cursing in another language is the true mark of an educated person.
For the sake of decorum, I will not reveal which of these howling ladies came up with the idea.
I thought about this idea, it really does make sense. What follows is X rated and not for those folks who have never cursed and will never curse.
When we’re happy we curse. When we’re angry we curse. When we’re sad we curse. But what language do we curse in? When I was a kid, I cursed. OK the only curse I really knew was the F bomb. Both my parents used the F bomb. After a while, the F bomb became simply a yawn bomb.
Now in Italy, I’m hearing curse words light. Simple ones like caspita which means damn or merde which means poop and the list goes on. What our guests were referring to were the words dashed out by the men playing scopa in the piazza or arguing over bocci points. Words like stronzo, che cazzo, or bastardo. You can look them up, I am too embarrassed to define them.
Susan at age one was whispering “eat shit.” I replied the family password, “and die.”
Sadly, I must admit my sweet sister Susan and I would often say something horrific to each other. Usually, after my mother blamed the wrong one for some egregious error. Imagine my delight to discover that we could share the love in Italian with – mangia merde e morte! Sounds so much better in the language of Dante.
But seriously, our tourism inattive has gone beyond cooking. Speaking of cursing, we have a fabulous group of playwrights coming in October. THERE IS ONE SPOT LEFT MESSAGE ME FOR DETAILS. I am a playwright and I curse. Does that imply all playwrights curse? No, but I a betting a few F bombs dash out on pages just to add a bit of reality.
If you would like an experience that goes beyond the backpack carrying mass tour and experience literally Italy, including a smattering of bad words. Send me a message. We are setting up experiences for 2025 now. Together we create something unique and real. I cannot guarantee you will hear cursing. I can guarantee it will be an experience you won’t forget.
Write Where You Are, a non profit committed to providing playwrights with a variety of opportunities, is sponsoring its first Playwright’s Retreat! Administrative Director, Jonathan Samarro, has been working with a group of Pontelandolfese – gulp, that includes me – on creating the perfect October 14th to the 23rd, 2025 experience.
Write Where You Are 2024: Pontelandolfo offers playwrights the space, time, and community needed to move forward in their work. The Italian landscape and village life are a great catalyst for creativity. In addition to providing time for ones own daily writing, they’ll offer activities to inspire you, from master classes in playwriting, to a stimulating array of cultural events and opportunities to socialize with fellow writers as well as local people. This is your time to nurture your work.
Write Where You Are – Pontelandolfo participants will share large double rooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa, a large villa on acres of land.
Pontelandolfo’s cobblestone streets take you to a castle tower, cafés, ancient Roman churches and miniature works of art hidden within an area steeped in history and culture where the main plaza is still the center of town life and lore.
The retreat is only open to eight people. ONE SPOT REMAINS! Playwrights who participate in other Write Where You Are experiences signed up quickly. Interested in that one last spot? Contact Jonathan for more information – jonathanjsamarro@gmail.com.
INCLUDED HIGHLIGHTS: October 14 – 23, 2024
Transportation from the Benevento Train Station to Pontelandolfo
10 nights a villa near the historic center of Pontelandolfo.
Most meals are included, either out or cooked by our host/cook. Vegetarians can be accommodated.
Arrival Day Bar Crawl will help you know the town and for them to meet you.
Traditions of Historical Pontelandolfo – hunt for family crests and learn to roll cheese, la ruzzola. Cheese rolling is a sport that is now recognized and goes back centuries.
Excursion to Benevento – museum, Teatro Romano, Hortus Conclusus and explore historic center.
Optional Excursion to Reggio Caserta. Tickets are currently €15.
Wood-fired pizza made high in the Sannio hills in a centuries old oven.
Longing for a trip to Italy but are doing a staycation? Sip a Prosecco and read my humorous travel memoir, Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos. Published by Read Furiously.
Bar Crawl! One can’t possibly appreciate Pontelandolfo’s culinary delights without experiencing the cultural delight of the Southern Italian bar. Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo, the program we started i 2016, offers more than tasty cooking. Participants also have unique tasty experiences.
Pour yourself a glass of something sparkling and join me for a Pontelandolfo Bar Crawl.
2024 Group OneGroup 2 – Did Jack sneak into the Crawl???
First stop – Cafè Style. Run by the Nardone sibling, Antonio and Asia, the bar is nestled above the village and morning coffee there includes a glorious view. For our bar crawl, the participants – many for the first time – try a “spritz.” Often advertised in the USA, Aperol is the go to ingredient for a spritz. This orange aperitif, along with ice, Prosecco and a dash of fizzy water makes a colorful sparkling drink. Aperol is produced by the Campari Group. Speaking of Campari – Campari is my go to ingredient for a spritz that is a bit bitter and has a higher alcohol content. Just switch out the Campari for Aperol in the recipe and sip a great end of a long day adult beverage. The other happening spritz option is Limoncello, Yumm it tastes like a cool summer lemonade. My famous Los Angeles niece, Alexandra, turned me on to those. I hadn’t seen them in Pontelandolfo. The minute she told me to try one – zoom – I saw fashionable people sipping them in Piazza Roma. How did I miss this perfect summer trend??
Now, a spritz can’t be had without a little nosh. An aperitivo and a big nosh is called apericena – who needs a dinner. Frankly, I don’t want to waste my third act worrying about dinner and often grab Jack and head out for that 8:00 PM adult beverage and apericena. Ahhhhhhh.
Since this is the season of cucumbers, tomatoes and other early garden crops, Group 2 enjoyed an amazing cucumber salad, bruschetta of fresh chopped tomatoes, local cheese and sausage. Culinary plus cultural adventure number one!
Notice Pontelandolfo’s iconic tower in the background.
Onward! No weary partiers in our groups! Next stop Bar 2000! Down the hill, around the curves and into the center of town we go! Bar 2000 is owned by Ghaleb, a Tunisian expat, and his wife Rosaria. Calcio may be booming on the large screen but the late night snacks are middle eastern. The scent of the large skewer of meat slowly turning on the electric spit wafts down the street. Think of all those places you have visited serving Gyros. Here a handheld version is made with the addition of lettuce, tomatoes and more. These palate pleasing “piadine” are wrapped in foil and scarfed down by all. I suggested Italian beer as the cultural experience but, hey, I’m not their mom and one could drink what one wanted.
Since no one except me was tired. We ambled down the cobblestones to our final stop – Bar Cafè Elimar.
Bar Elimar is also a tavola calda and has a neat interior dining space. Since it was a Saturday night, the outside was jammed packed. Saying we’re not hungry but eagle looking forward to our crepes.
After a long day filled with conversation, tasty morsels and alcohol, what could be better than a Nutella filled crepe accompanied by a digestivo! Some adventurers tried Strega, the aperitif made locally. The Strega recipe of secret herbs has been guarded for centuries. Others, myself included, sipped dark colored digestives like Amaro di Capo, Cynar, Vecchio Romagna, or- gulp- sweet Limoncello.
Huzzah! We made it through another bar crawl. What culinary and cultural adventure waits around the corner? Everyday, life in a Southern Italian village like Pontelandolfo reminds me that we truly are lucky to live “la dolce vita.”