Back packs? We know that Midge hates backpacks. Those evil things that hit her in the face on buses, ferries – is she really starting a post with a picture of backpacks? Someone should take her temperature!
Ah, my readers, these are not stuffed with travel guides, extra socks and bottles of water. These are expertly packed with all a plein air artist needs to set up in our Sannio Hills and capture in paints a moment in time. Think of them as an artist’s studio that fits on your back – easel, paints, paper/canvas, brushes, rags, mineral spirts and tons of other stuff. I mean, how else could you climb the steep steps of Morcone to find the perfect subject to immortalize?
One backpack, one back, one view – for Steve Duprey from Duprey Art who organized the artists retreat, it was the perfect combination. Here Steve is perched on a step in Morcone. The artists who came had the opportunity to observe the landscapes, streetscapes and people of the archeological dig Atilia Sepino, Pontelandolfo, Morcone and Casalduni.
Not being able to draw a circle, it was amazing to see some of the artists create wonderful works in what seemed like nanno-seconds. There were pieces that reflected architectural detail and bucolic scenes with magical accuracy. As the artists were working, I peeked over shoulders to watch the process. Luckily, they were all good sports and no one smacked me with a brush.
This is the first time Annarita Mancini and I have facilitated a program for visual artists. Americans interested in a different kind of travel experience have come to the Sannio Hills to cook in private homes, explore their roots, immerse in traditional cultural activities and write. We hope to see more visual artists in the future.
Let me stop yammering and let you see for yourself –
Grab a group of pals and we will create something special for you too. The Sannio Hills are calling you.
Not that kind of easy escort – get your mind on travel please. I want to share my recent experience with an escort at Naples Capodichino International AirPort . On my way to Amsterdam to see the first international production of my play, “E-mail: 9/12,” I was nervous as hell. So nervous I was barely coherent. There was no need, I was in good hands. My escort was a dapper middle aged Italian man who handled every aspect of my navigating the airport.
He was assigned to me in the Sala Amica, a dedicated special assistance waiting room and service point for passengers with reduced mobility (PRM) and disabilities. ( I hate to admit that I use a cane now – aging is not for the faint of heart.) This charming man pushed my woman of substance sized body from Sala Amica to my seat on the plane.
Location & Access
Terminal Location: Ground floor of Terminal 1, in the departures area near Entrance 1.
In Naples if you have a problem walking, they make it incredibly easy for you. You pull up with your car outside Terminal 1 near Entrance 1. What looks like a separate little yellow building next to the airport is actually attached to the airport. When my driver pulled up to the entrance drive, it was blocked and two police officers stared at us. We smiled, we chatted, they smiled and raised the gate. There was a special parking spot right outside the door. Easy peasy.
Dragging my suitcase and cane I entered one of the most entertaining places to wait in the entire airport. The people who work here having incredibly large personalities. Actors and singers waiting for that gig? One could simply say, “who is waiting for the Birmingham flight” or scamper around the room going up to each person pointing and singing as only a basso can “Birmingham? Birmingham?” The room was packed with folks going to various parts of Great Britain and one woman sang back – Manchester! We all smiled, chatted and didn’t mind waiting for our escorts.
Recognizable Escorts.
Sala Amica has all the amenities – vending machines, fairly comfortable chairs and smiles. Once here, there’s a wheelchair accessible bathroom just for your use. REMEMBER TISSUES! I always have a pack of tissues in my purse to compensate for the lack of toilet paper.
The first time we used this Sala Amica no one even asked to see our passport or tickets or anything. It was just lots of games like where are you going? OK, get in this wheelchair yeah. Hmm, I could start a third act career as a CIA mule.
Suddenly, I hear choo-choo choo-choo. The sound of trains being made by a very loud tenor, choo-choo choo-choo and in the door came about 15 wheelchairs all attached to each other being pushed by one person at the back end. And if it was hard work, you didn’t know it because he just kept on laughing and smiling.
This place is a jewel box of great stories. How about the one about an older man with his daughter going to Dublin clutching one cardboard box tied with twine and one of those styrofoam cooler boxes also tied with twine.
There escort looks at them and says: “what are you taking? You can’t take those. Is it liquid? Water? Wine?”
The old guy looks up at heaven and says, “No, formaggio di latte vaccino stagionato.”
Every Italian in the rooms smiles in understanding. Nothing beats aged Italian cow’s milk cheese. Of course they can carry it on the plane.
I can’t imagine taking those on the plane and finding a place to stick them above. Oh yeah, they also had two carry-ons. How do people get away with that? I am telling you this is a smuggler’s dream.
Speaking of cheese now they’re chanting “Philadelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia.” As a stream of four women and their walking husbands are pushed out the door, a cacophony of “Ciao Philadelphia,” rings out. This place is not only comfortable but fun.
Lots of trekking sticks in the hands of Brits instead of canes.
If you have flown in or out of Naples or any really small airport you may have experienced the horrible and steep stairway that takes you up to the plane. The stairway is your prize for surviving the cramped one or two buses necessary to get wherever your plane is parked.
My magic carpet!
Registering in advance with your airline and specifying you can’t do stairs will entitle you to ride in the Star Wars looking device that whirrrrrrs, beeps and bumps itself to a portal on the plane. ThunderLift! Imagine a box truck that is also an elevator. The first time I rode one, I totally freaked out crossing the incredibly large gap – at least 2 inches- between the cab and the plane. One is incredibly high in the sky and it is only a stainless steel railing that keeps you in the right spot. Oh yeah, and your escort! They sense I am a nervous nellie and always hold on to me while we cross into the plane.
Some airline hosts have taken my carry on and purse and led me to my seat. Others – oh I am not denigrating Easy Jet here – looked at me like I had leprosy. The escort person shot them the evilest of mal’ochio and helped me.
My self labeled – old man- husband, Jack have used the wheelchair services for a few years. Naples wins the award as having the best system in place. Yes, they absolutely beat out major city giant airports – Newark could take a lesson. Applause to Sala Amica! Bravo Capodichino Aeroporto!
Some days, disappointment and bewilderment emanate from the cars circling our iconic fountain and exiting town. It happens every year. Visitors to Pontelandolfo wanting to learn more about their ancestors hop back into cars having not seen, not heard or learned anything. COME BACK! DON’T GIVE UP!
As often happens, looking for help and information about his family, a Pontelandolfese from Connecticut texted me via Facebook. He said that the folks at Bar Elimar suggested he contact me. Sadly, I don’t have – nor will I ever – have notifications set up for Facebook Messenger. I saw the text later in the day. He was already gone. I hope he comes back.
I asked Giuditta and Marilina at Elimar Food about the researcher. They went off on a rant about people being screwed by false or terrible Pontelandolfo websites, our towns lack of tourism information and how sad it is that folks come for a few hours expecting to learn something and leave feeling it had been a waste of time. Apparently, this fellow came via a tour operator who didn’t do their research.
False websites? Did I hear that right? Could that be true? Cripes – artificial intelligence ain’t so intelligent.
I typed visit pontelandolfo in my Safari search bar and AI promptly spit out a blurb that makes our magical village sound – gulp- magical. Too bad it doesn’t tell you all you need to know. Though I must admit, I felt super proud to see this blog posted on the sidebar!
One can always explore the medieval center – that’s true and I think the tag line is one of mine. That means walk and look because there is nothing there to visit. The view over the valley, however, is spectacular. The historic tower is privately owned and not open to day-trippers. The beautiful Chiesa di San Salvatore is only open for mass on Sunday. You can always visit the small – not listed – historic chapel, San Rocco. Further down, AI lists dining at Landulphi – we loved this pub – loved being the appropriate word. It has been closed for years. The owner now has an upscale sushi restaurant on the piazza – that we adore – Tawā. I can’t complain about the urban trekking line. Quest for the Crests is my work and available. My point is, a point we all know – you can’t believe everything you read! You have to dig a little deeper.
Unearthed were other websites alleging they were Visit Pontelandolfo and steered readers to hotels, restaurants and events in other bigger towns. Has AI made it more difficult to unearth the truth????
Even the Rick Steves Community Forum offered misinformation about visiting Pontelandolfo. The Sorrento Review was better but hadn’t researched whether or not places were still or had ever been opened.
During an earlier administration, Visit Pontelandolfo was set up in two languages. It even had shared local recipes. A quick hop there showed it isn’t updated often. The FaceBook page is a wee bit better. (That reminds me I need to update the page Nonna’s Mulberry Tree has on visiting the village. I promise links are to real businesses.)
The town’s official website doesn’t really provide great information for visitors and it isn’t available in multiple languages. I typed “turismo” in the search bar and got bupkiss. Vivere Il Comune prompt yielded the monuments, the closed tower and churches. Wait – there is a way to get it in English. I tried the website again from google and the google translator asked if I wanted it in English.
That said, the official website is not all a waste of time. If you are searching your roots, YOU SHOULD USE THE WEBSITE AND MAKE AN APPOINTMENT! Start with “contatta il comune – prenota appuntamento.” Make an appointment with the Ufficio Anagrafe e Stato Civile.
The ancient books uncover family secrets.
Dearest Pontelandolfese of the world, please plan on spending more than an afternoon in ancestors village. Spend three or four days. Stay at an agriturismo, like Borgo Cerquelle, and get a sense of the food, history and culture of our community. Go to mass at San Salvatore. I spent some time searching for the parish website – even asking folks. All I found was a facebook link, which does have a phone number. Use WhatsApp or Facebook Messenger and call. The next day, meet with the Ufficio Anagrafe or the church archivist and search the ancient records for your past.
Learn more about Pontelandolfo by checking out the Pontelandolfo News. It offers a wealth of background and history of the paese. Gulp, I can’t believe I am saying this but put Pontelandolfo in the YouTube search line and tons of stuff comes up. Enjoy watching a game of Ruzzola – cheese rolling.
Pontelandolfese are a friendly bunch, if you discover something interesting don’t be afraid to e-mail the place or person. There are so many translator apps it is easy peasy to write something and get it translated. Take the time before you buy the plane ticket and you will enjoy our village even more.
The best advice I ever heard was from genealogist Rich Venezia of Rich Roots Genealogy. If you want to know about your ancestral home, search the attic, talk to your aunts and uncles. Before you drive into Pizza Roma, talk to the elders in your family and find out all you can about those adventurers who left Pontelandolfo looking for a different life. Then, if you have someone in your family who has an Ancestry DNA subscription, ask them to send you the links to those cousins 4X removed no one ever contacts. Contact them. Gather more data. Check out the free Family Search and come to Pontelandolfo with as much background on your family as you can. Trust me. It is worth it.
Fifty-six years ago, I visited Pontelandolfo for the first time. Stared at shuttered buildings. Walked around for an hour. Got back in the car with my cousins and left town disappointed. Thirty one years ago, I found family in Pontelandolfo that no one on our side of the Atlantic knew existed. It started with the basest of family trees scratched in a notebook. We too entered Piazza Roma not knowing what to do, where to look or really who we were. With feeble Italian, talking to older folks in bars. Reading the funeral announcements posted on walls. Discovering where the Comune was. Boldly entering the building. Having an amazing visit to the Ufficio Anagrafe with time spent pouring over the ancient books. That activity started the Pontelandolfo phone chain and brought us incredible assistance. We found my father’s first cousins. That long tale is for another day.
Come prepared, make an appointment, spend some time here and buy me un caffè in the piazza. You won’t be disappointed.
This September 19 – 26th we have two spots open for Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo! This is a great way to learn, experience and be part of village life.
Have you wondered where I’ve been? I’ve wondered too. But I’ve been thinking of you, the Sannio Hills and our sweet village, Pontelandolfo. My silence has been time for percolating and looked what popped out of the pot – a writer’s retreat. Read on. Grab your passport and join us.
June 1 to June 11, 2026.
Limited to 8 writers
Writers’ Refuge in the Sannio Hills takes its name from the rifugi, mountain huts that provided a haven for shepherds in Italy. Like those rifugi, the Writers’ Refugeoffers a sanctuary where writers of all genres can shepherd in your latest creative writing project. Whether you are a first-time writer or have had many publications, the 10 days you’ll spend amidst the gorgeous Sannio Hills in the lovely Italian village of Pontelandolfo will surely inspire and nurture your creative output. Here, your time is your own. Write all day everyday if you like, read all those books you’ve wanted to read, spend time sharing your work with the other writers, or wander through town enjoying the new view. While all these nurtures your work, we also offer one-on-one creativity coaching sessions, daily writing prompts, nightly salons, and other creativity boosting activities brought to you by award-winning poet and small press editor Maria Williams
Together with playwright and event facilitator, Midge Guerrera, the time together is sure to be fun and inspirational
$2200All Inclusive Fee Includes:
Participants will share large, double rooms with ensuite bathrooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa, a unique villa built into a mountain on acres of land. The villa includes a swimming pool, tennis court, washing machine, and park-like grounds that are minutes from Pontelandolfo village life. (A price for a single room at a local apartment will be available upon request.)
Three meals a day cooked by an Italian chef using local ingredients. Vegetarians and those with allergies can be accommodated
Roundtrip Transportation from the Benevento Train Station
Welcoming “Bar Crawl”–drinks and local snacks included–where you can discover off-site places to write while absorbing local Italian culture.
Daily shuttles will bring you (and your computer) to the village center – Piazza Roma.
All workshops, one-on-one sessions, and salons
A morning of writing in neighboring Morcone’s Storico Bar and lunch at Biancamela
Application fee is $150 to secure your spot. Deadline: April 5, 2026
As part of your registration please send no more than 10 pages of your work plus a paragraph or two describing your goals for the 10 days.
Your hosts Maria Williams, is the author of White Doe, winner of the Verse Daily Prize (2023), and the chapbook A Love Letter To Say There Is No Love (FutureCycle Press, 2011). She is a Pushcart Prize nominee and has been awarded residencies and fellowships from Jentel, PEN America, the Vermont Studio Center, A Room of Ones Own, and the Summer Literary Seminars, among others. Her poems have been published in numerous journals, including Bellevue Literary Review, Pank,Quarterly West, Allium, and Bateau. Maria has provided consultation to writers of all genres for over ten years. Visit her website.
So, my creative friends, what do you think? Are you staring at your keyboard and thinking – hmmm, it is portable. Pack that bag and join us in Pontelandolfo.
Borgo Cerquelle is celebrating fall harvests in a joyfully orangey way – pumpkins have crept into every aspect of the bioagriturismo’s autumn offerings. We were lucky to have taste tested their light as a cloud pumpkin gnocchi. Sorry, we scarfed them down too fast to take a picture.
Before I start slurping the pot of pumpkin soup I just made from one of Borgo Cerquelle’s organic pumpkins, I need to explain how visiting this hilltop bioagriturismo is a leap back into the history of Pontelandolfo. Borgo Cerquelle is an ancient – well borgo – hamlet – that in the end of the 1600s housed contadini – peasant farmers. Built entirely of stone, the borgo has been repurposed into an incredible spot for locals and tourists. It is just a few minutes up the mountain from Pontelandolfo’s historic center. Those of you who know me, know that gulp, twisty mountain roads are not my favorite route to anywhere. Jack loves them! That said, Borgo Cerquelle, located about 600 m – 1970 feet – above sea level and surrounded by streams, woods, meadows and olive groves is worth the driving angst. The view of Pontelandolfo from there makes me want to sing Finian’s Rainbow “How are things in Glocca Morra.” Some days I do!
Some members of the original families have returned to visit and marvel at how Borgo Cerquelle was rehabbed, preserved intact and is alive again. Guests stay in the rustically furnished, heated rooms with an independent entrance and bathroom. I must admit, the original inhabitants did not have indoor plumbing. Thank goodness for that upgrade.
Our Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo participants stay here and have nothing but joyful comments about the place, the family who runs it and of course – the food.
Celebrating fall and the fabulous harvest found on this organic farm also means fall foliage. Borgo Cerquelle is in an area abundant with oak trees. I learned that “Cerquelle” is based on the ancient dialect name for oaks -“cerque.”
The family that has created this unusual place to eat and stay is headed by Alverio and Marianna. Alverio insists Marianna is the boss. They are more than ably assisted by their son Antonino and daughter Serena. Antonino wears the administrative hat now and his sister Serena takes care of the kitchen following the traditional recipes of his mother and grandmother. Serena is a talented potter and her creativity can be seen on every table. Antonino’s photos grace their website.
Sniff, sniff, my zuppa di zucca is percolating on the stove. Yummy. After a day at Borgo Cerquelle eating farm to table fare that featured pumpkins, I knew I had to bring a pumpkin home. You need to know that lunch at this bioagriturismo takes a minimum of three hours. There is no menu choice. What is fresh today is what is cooked. We have never had anything but an exceptional locally sourced feast.
Yeah, I have a pazillion pounds of pumpkin! Jack, borrowing a samurai sword, hacked it into manageable pieces. I had been gifted an old rooster that had outlived his cock-a-doodle and made a rich chicken – or is it rooster -stock. Now, how to put both these quite local food groups together? Simple. 1. Roast the pumpkin which makes it easier to cut up. 2. Take a scant head of garlic, dice it, toss it in the broth and let it simmer. (Garlic wards off fall flu.) 3. Toss in some old cheese rinds, tyme, rosemary, salt and pepper. 4. Let the roasted pumpkin cool. Ok, Jack made me let it cool. I am famous for burning my hands in the kitchen. 5. Cut up the pumpkin, toss it in the pot and let everything simmer to meld. 6. Take out the immersion blender, zzzzzzzzzzz, errrrrrrrrrr, it to a creamy texture. 7. EAT with hearty bread from Diglio Forno drizzled with Borgo Cerquelle savory pumpkin marmalade.
This fall, Borgo Cerquelle has offered a plethora of activities from harvesting, trips to the river, classes in cooking, ceramics, art therapy and my favorite APERITIVO! With a reservation, as the sun sets, we can zip up the mountain and enjoy a cocktail and incredible snacks. As the laughter of guests fills the fall air, an outdoor bar decorated for fall is the anchor.
When I asked Alverio why they do what they do. He explained that they want to revive the activities and traditions of the ancient inhabitants of the village. That means cultivating the land and raising animals organically, providing an oasis away from the stress of the city and offering an experience that is perfect for individuals and families. I have to say that every time I bring children there for lunch they race off to see the animals, climb the rope course and just plain old play.
HEY JACK WHEN YOU READ THIS BLOG POST – AND YOU BETTER BE READING MY BLOG POSTS – WE HAVE TO GO TO THIS AT BORGO CERQUELLE – werwolves and witches – huzzah!
The people, the place and the friendly wolf/dogs Vilcas e Tempesta make Borgo Cerquelle a great place to eat, relax, play and breath. I hope to run into you there.
A group of Cooking in the kitchens of Pontelandolfo cooks pose with Marianna, Antonino and Alverio.
Next fall, easels, pochade boxes and artists focusing on la bella vista will be popping up in the hills and historic centers of Morcone, Casalduni and Pontelandolfo. An En Plein Air workshop, organized by artist Steve Duprey and Midge Guerrera (that’s me) of Literally Italy LLC, is scheduled for September 2026. (And you thought Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo was all I was up to.) Steve’s enthusiasm for the Sannio Hills and his expertise as an artist was all it took for this new cultural initiative to percolate here.
By Steve Duprey
Eight artists will have the opportunity to leave the four walls of their studios behind and paint the landscape, streetscapes and people of small southern Italian villages. On this blog, you’ve seen photos of our little piece of Italy and can imagine the paintings that this group will create. Some of the sites to be visited include Roman ruins, vineyard, olive groves, farms and medieval village centers. Steve particularly wanted us to take painters to Morcone’s hill top historic center. The group will be shuttled in Api Cars converted to navette – mini shuttle buses -to the tippy top of historic Morcone. That in itself is a cultural experience. The vista of the valley is amazing.
According to our delightful local organizer, Annarita, Pontelandolfo’s traditional folk dance troupe will have members in historic costumes living life in the village’s historic center. If an artist falls in love with the setting and wanted to place a person in the painting, they have models available.
A flock of sheep crossing a rural road in the hills of southern Italy, reflecting the spontaneous moments that artists will capture during the workshop.
Participants will share large double rooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa. I love this villa. Last October our playwright’s retreat used the space and participants really enjoyed it.
Happy writers and one writer/painter. Can you find Steve?
Located in Pontelandolfo, the property is in a wonderful park filled with olive groves, orchard, pond, swimming pool, tennis court and woodland trails.
Writer/Artist Steve Duprey on a terrace of La Locanda della Presuntuosa.
Since we got back to our happy creative place, my inbox has been a flutter with invitations to book launches, book club and writer meet and greets. Remember, my happy creative place is not an urban center but Pontelandolfo – a tiny village with a population under 3,000 – that includes sheep and cows.
One of the newest organizations that is making a literary impact is Sannio Che Legge. Spear headed by folks with an interest in art, literature, intellectual discourse and highlighting the cultural connections of Pontelandolfo, Morcone and the entire Sannio area, they are constantly providing me with a place to go and a book to read.
An aside: I just turned to Jack and bellowed, “I just love this!” We are sitting outside Bar Elimar, my writers room, Latin music is playing, I’m sipping a limoncello spritz, tapping my foot and writing. Two tables of men are playing cards. Three tables of thirty something’s, with babies in tow, are gossiping and laughing. How could someone not create art here???
Jack and I went to the Sannio Che Legge event at Morcone’s newest restaurant, Cantina Ristorante Biancamela. (Morcone’s progressive mayor and council are working hard to bring life back to their historic center. That is another blog. ) I was impressed. About 30 people were there listening to author Rita Martignetti talk about the genesis of his work. He actually gave all of us a copy of one of his books. Grazie Mille. His numerous works deal in an entertaining manner with the history of the Sannio Hills.
I should note that Sannio Che Legge grew out of the Pontelandolfo Biblioclub and signed a Reading Pact with the Municipality of Pontelandolfo. The organization is now entrusted with the Pontelandolfo Library.
I will be there with my cosmopolitan literati hat on.
One of my besties, Adele Gentile had a recent book launch and of course I went. Once her publisher gets that e-book link and on line bookstore link up there, you will get a full story on her tome.
Book launches here are set up a bit differently. Adele, the author, didn’t read any parts of her book. She has a wild and wonderful personality and I was looking forward to her reading. Instead, others – think critics – talked about the book. There was also dialogue with the author. It was actually incredibly interesting. A great way to learn about an author’s catalyst for creation.
Blue is Adele’s favorite colors and blue took over the auditorium. From the flowers on the stage to the cover of her emotional and yet entertaining memoir. I chuckled as I watched Adele hand out programs and check every detail of the launch. Is she a Jersey Girl too?
The place was packed. That means about 200 people came to a book launch. A book launch in a teeny tiny village! (Damn, time to start getting my stuff translated.)
Adele, wrote her memoir while undergoing treatment for breast cancer. Ooops, I vowed I wouldn’t say a word until we had the links so that you could buy the book. It is – a freakin‘ amazing work.
Rescheduled to September.
I am excited to hear this presentation and buy a copy of the book – written in English and Italian. Written originally as a screenplay, the novel tells the tale of the 1861 pillage of Pontelalndolfo in the name of Risorgimento in a different way. An American woman with Pontelandolfo roots visits the village, sees a mural and …. I can’t wait to read the story.
I could overburden your inboxes with more examples or you could visit our little place of creative energy and see for yourself. Interested in gathering up some writer pals and spending a week here? Just let me know and we can organize something magical. Then, I will grab my laptop and join your writer’s room on Piazza Roma.
Those of you who had been following my tales comparing my Nonna’s 1920 transatlantic crossing and mine, know that on May 30, 2025 we disembarked in Southhampton, England UK. Nobody laugh but until we took the QM2 across the Atlantic I didn’t know the word disembarkation existed. Then a bus, a plane and a car service later we were home in Pontelandolfo, Italy.
Some of you have messaged me and asked – What did you really think about the crossing? Was it organized to a type A Jersey Girl’s level of expectation? What did you learn? Would you do it again?
I thought the crossing was fabulous. Jack and I don’t put on worry hats. We absolutely ignored all those woosies telling us to wear magic anti nausea bracelets and take dramamine . Yes, one felt the roll of the ocean. That roll would rock me to sleep at night. It is chilly on the Atlantic but, frankly, we rarely went outside. We found two bars we loved – great martinis, fabulous views of the sea, comfortable seats and interesting other travelers. With my laptop in toe, I would write in the bars or simply stare at the sea. Being friendly folks, we often shared a seating area with other people and had funfilled and engaging conversations. Most of the passengers we met were from Great Britain, Ireland and Italy. (All asked us the same question – who voted for that man to be president? I shrugged and said “boh.”)
We had a room – or do I call it a cabin – that was quite large, had a sitting area, ensuite bathroom with a large shower and an obstructed view terrace. We could sit outside and see the sea through the glass sides of a lifeboat. Not being athletic, I didn’t think that if the need arose I could sprint and leap into the lifeboat. The obstructed view cost less and since we were rarely there was inconsequential.
Room Service Breakfast was off the menu and delish.
Every day a new slick printed trifold was placed on our newly made bed. It contained the schedule for the next day. the “Daily Programme” had nautical information, What to Wear advice for the day – Smart Attire please – and a complete list of activities. Frankly, we never went to see a show – back to the bar after our late night dinner. Never went to the interesting lectures. Never went to the dance and exercise classes. Never went to the painting and arts based classes. Never went into the empty casino. Never went into the all night long disco. Never went – well you get my drift. Passengers who were looking to use the voyage as a “cruise vacation” were not disappointed. I used the seven days as a writer’s retreat and finished a short story and three blogs. Jack and I also enjoyed exploring the nooks and crannies of the ship.
During the day there were lots of seats in the casino.
Based on how much one pays for a cabin, a restaurant is assigned. We were assigned to the Britannia Club and were never disappointed. The menu changed daily, was interesting, delicious and beautifully presented. Famished when we embarked (look I used the fancy word again) we foolishly went to the Kings Court Buffet. Crowds, grabbing a table, I thought I was in a college cafeteria. It was lovely to look at but we are foodie snobs so the buffet never saw us again. For up charges there were alternative dining options. We toyed with trying them but the food in the Britannia Club was so good, I didn’t see the need to.
Room Service was included in the base price. Every morning we got up when we felt like it, didn’t rush to a restaurant and had a scrumptious breakfast delivered. Portions were small – think tapas – and interesting takes on eggs.
We did go to the famous daily Afternoon Tea. Obviously it was a tasty treat for all. Sadly, waiters came around with carafes of tea, trays of different sandwiches, savories and pastries. I thought we were in a dim sum restaurant. I miss the tower and my own pot of tea.
Knowing we were not the soft drink kind of folks, we opted to pay $1008 for unlimited spirits, specialty beverages and more. I know, $72 a day each sounds like a ridiculous price until I started asking obnoxious questions. How much is a martini made with Hendricks? What do you charge for a cappuccino, sparkling mineral water, etc. Bar prices are the same as a New York City or London Hotel Bar. Yes, they charged for mineral water. If a glass of wine is $14 and Jack has two at lunch and three at dinner, we would spend $70. Now, add on the four bottles of mineral water, three cappuccini and toss in an espresso or two and he made the daily price point. Without worry and the tips are included. Frankly, we did spend a lot of time in the various bars and the coffee house. When we flashed our card with the pre-pay stamp we were treated incredibly well. Another incentive to hang out in the bars was the music. Jazz, harpist, light rock, Irish Shanties – music matched the tone of the bar. Sigh, I do miss that.
Bar Table With a View Worth Drinking For.
Was the adventure organized to my obnoxious management standards? Hmm. Yes and no. I would have appreciated some of the information we received on the ship in advance. When we arrived at our cabin we found information about where to eat, how to turn on internet, where do I get my key etc. I would have appreciated the first day schedule in advance. At the Brooklyn Pier, our luggage was whisked out of the car and directly to our cabin. I thought how spot on! What wasn’t spot on was the long cue to show one’s passport and tickets. No one explained in advance that there would be an incredible amount of walking to board the vessel. Jack has a squirrely back and we order an airport wheelchair for him. If I had been forewarned, I would have ordered a wheelchair at the pier . Disembarking was the same forced long march out.
The WIFI was another annoying issue. One must pay the evil StarLink for the service. I paid, and couldn’t get it to work. Obviously, hordes of other folks couldn’t get it to work and on day one we all cued up at the ConneXions Desk. There should have been more people working. After two days of writing, I realized I couldn’t upload anything. Now even more annoyed, I went to the purser’s station and stood in another long line to discover that for a few pounds a day more the wifi would work perfectly. I can’t remember what the uncharge was but hey…
The disembarking including our luggage being whisked out to the transportation center. We found our bags and then lugged them to a bus. Cunard for $90 a person will transport folks to Heathrow. I will never take the bus again. My short legs and big butt make climbing into a high bus and up stairs to the seats a nightmare. Lugging my computer bag down the narrow aisle wasn’t pleasant either. Next time, I would price out a car service to the airport. We spied small groups getting into bigger taxi style vehicles. The driver was helpful at the airport and made sure our luggage made it to the curb.
What did I learn? I learned that the Queen Mary 2, for some passengers, is a commuter ferry. Seriously, a lot of the people I met used the QM2 to get from one content to the other for work. The library on the ship has work stations with ocean views and unless I got there early enough, they were all taken with folks typing away. Someone said to me, they get a lot of work done on the crossing and arrive refreshed and ready to go.
I learned, not quite as bad as an airport, but you still have to wait in uncomfortable lines to get on and get off – excuse me embark and disembark. At least all of the staff was “Disney” smiling and happy.
People are wonderful and interesting. Traveling slowly across the sea provides an opportunity to really chat and get to know people’s stories. The Irish American sisters who visit Ireland annually and regaled us with village tales. They were from a county that butts the county that Jack’s clan is from. The Italian American couple who spend six months a year in Puglia were charming and fun to sit and laugh with in two languages. The Irish woman and her young son were a joy to play with. The world travelers who gave us hints for getting the most out of the QM2. And so many more.
I also learned that being in a cocoon of comfort was a catalyst for my creativity. Since I had been blogging about my Nonna’s journey, I wrote a non-fiction short story about my Aunt Cat. Hmm, a writer’s retreat on a cruise ship? What an idea waiting for someone to organize.
Would I do it again? If the total price point was right, I would do it again. When flights out of Newark, NJ were being cancelled, I started trying to get a flight out of Philadelphia or JFK. The price for premium economy or business class on short notice was the cost of my first car. Then, I get this promotional email from Cunard – last minute deals on cruises. The base fare for a great room with an obstructed view was $859 a person. If we didn’t like bar life or needed wifi, we could have gotten away with that low price. I added on Cunard Care – health insurance and evacuation for 74.27 each. The bus to Heathrow was $90. Then there were taxes. The cost for two people was $2,046.54.
Being math deficient, I had a team of people help me reach the conclusion that adding the spirits package, $17 a day tips, wifi and cheap flight to Naples to the base price the total cost of our voyage for two from Ewing to Pontelandolfo cost us less than one first class last minute ticket on an airplane.
Soooooo, would we do it again? Does Cunard offer discounts to commuters? We are investigating what the seas are like in November and you might find me staring out that QM2 bar window again.
