TAWÃ Sushi and Reality TV!

Who could even imagine that a big television streaming network would shoot a Reality TV segment in our little village? Or that the series would not be about Italian cuisine but sushi. You read that right – sushi. Sitting there on Piazza Roma in Pontelandolfo, may be the best sushi restaurant we’ve ever eaten at. TAWĀ is owned by one of the most entrepreneurial young men I know, Giuseppe Sforza. When Giuseppe whispered, “the Discovery Channel – Food Network was starting a new reality show about sushi.” I was even more impressed. This go getter of a restaurateur, somehow got TAWĀ to be one of the first sushi restaurants the network visited. The new show – PAZZI DI SUSHI! Hmm, is that a riff on Food Network’s Pazzi di Pizza?

Screenshot from FoodNetwork.it

Giussepe asked us if Jack and I could come and be background for the shoot. Well, he didn’t exactly say “background” but I knew what he meant. We would be pretend customers in a restaurant that we absolutely adore. The concept of the show seemed clear. Pazzi di Sushi is a reality contest that will be held in every province in Italy. A province is like a New Jersey county – so that can be a lot of territory to cover. The production team picked the 3 restaurants from each province to compete. I don’t know how they found the three or if the guys who own them found out about the show and pitched them.

The host, Rosy Chin, who is a famous sushi restaurateur, with a production crew would visit the three sushi restaurants in one day. Accompanied by one “advisor” from each place, Rosy and her three advisor/judges taste the fare presented, talk about the food and then decide who is the best restaurant of that segment. The TAWĀ representative was the handsome sushi aficionado Antonio Del Ciampo. (When I saw the show, Antonio had more air time and sounded soooo much better than the other advisors. )

A night of filming would be fun. So, on dark and dreary Monday in October we headed to the Piazza. TAWĀ was the last restaurant the production team was visiting that day. Yup, Rosy and the crew started with early morning sushi – yum.

Looking like the happy sushi eaters we are, Jack and I arrived at TAWĀ at about 6:00 PM. That was the alleged time the shoot would start. There were four other well dressed folks there already. A mom, daughter, dad and pal. They were dress extras who dressed a hell of a lot better than Jack and I did. Both men were in suits. Jack was in a fleece sweatshirt. I wore a black Mexican style low neck off the shoulder dress with an enormous red necklace. No camera was going to ignore this red necklace. My Ecuadorian embroidered shawl complemented the look. I wonder if they saw my red shoes?

Giuseppe was incredibly gracious. He popped open a bottle and poured a Prosecco for all. It really was a cold and stormy October night and I was freaking freezing. I looked at our host with baby blues and got a Scotch to sip. We enjoyed chatting with the other extras and realized that suddenly it was 7:00 PM and no cast or crew in sight. The ever organized Giuseppe made calls to discover that they were behind and might be there at 8:00 PM. Now I’ve done enough television to know that they’re going to have a ton of high end equipment. It has to be set up, taken down, packed up and shoved in vans. That means 8:00 PM is a fantasy.

Each and every one of us our starving. We are waiting in this fabulous Japanese restaurant watching the chefs make this beautiful food for Rosy and the featured guests. The Scotch in my stomach was screaming for company. Yeah! At 10:00 PM the crew shows up and they’re like any crew I’ve ever worked with my entire life. Well not really, they are all so young I feel like Auntie Dinosaur. They quickly unload three vans. I start counting five cameras. Five cameras to put in this little restaurant. The lighting equipment kit fits in a pocket and morphs into these giant lights. They set up the sound board and monitors outside. Everything was set up by 11:00 PM.  Giuseppe kept in touch with Antonio to see where they were. What a long day for the crew and Rosy Chin. What a long day for aged sushi gourmands.

THE REALITY OF REALITY TV – OOPs – am I allowed to talk about this? When they finally got to TAWĀ the production team had us sign a talent/photo release. The young producer who was in charge made it such a big deal.

“Where’s your ID?” She asked.

I barely had a purse, I was just coming to pose. First thing I found was my New Jersey drivers license. Not good enough. We need to be Italian. Luckily, I dug around and found my Italian ID. Then she decides we are American and she will fill out the form for us. WHAT? When she completed the form, I asked her for a copy. She looked at me like I had three heads and asked why. Because I didn’t even know the name of the production company. We knew it was a Discovery Channel. We knew it was a new show. We didn’t know who or what was producing. Of course, I snagged a photo. (Really look at the release – use on Discovery, Prime, Netflix, and more. Damn this is more than the Food Network – which is owned by Warner Brothers Discovery.) Hmm, unlike my unreal reality experience on Cash Cab, we didn’t sign an NDA. So I’m allowed to share all the inside action with you.

I think they started filming at midnight. Yes, midnight and we hadn’t eaten a bloody thing. Jack, poor Jack, kept asking me if we could just sneak back to the counter and order something.

Stop, I whispered. We are actors on a job. Look happy.

Happy, Jack whined, I even look famished. It is midnight! When he started to put his head down on the table, I sighed. Actors….

Suddenly, things started to happen. They started to dress the set. Water and wine was whisked to our tables. Six pieces of sushi are suddenly in front of us. YUMMMMM. I smack Jack with a chopstick – we have to wait until the camera is on. Look for a red light! Then my “I’ll never be a background actor again,” husband starts drinking his wine.

A red light! I see a red light! Rosy and the advisors are making their entrance.

CUT!

Take 2! Take 3! Take 4! Eight takes later their entrance and greeting by Giuseppe was spot on. Actually Giuseppe was spot on every take.

Next the personalities were graciously seated in the center of the room, well lit and WHAT! Giuseppe serves them a sashimi that was so huge, beautiful and amazing that if I didn’t know better I’d think a Hollywood food stylist created it. Rosy talks about the history of sashimi and our eyes glaze over as we watch Rosy and the advisors tstart eating this sashimi. Remember, they have been eating sushi since early this morning. Each personality put the fewest slices of fish on their little plates as possible. Smiles. A taste and suddenly – CUT! We watched the magnificent tray of fresh fish as it moved back to the crew. Sigh…

While they’re setting up the next shot, Rosy turned to me – wait – somehow she knows I’m an American. Did the giant red necklace give me away or my poking Jack with chopsticks? Rosy asks me in English – English like some one who went to Smith or Vassar – why are you here?

I look and gulp, the red light is on. My phony TV voice and face race to answer. (Jack told me I turned on my phony face and voice.) I do an amazing TAWĀ pitch – at least I thought it was amazing.

I’m here because the sushi at TAWĀ is the absolute best in the world. We’ve eaten sushi all over the world – in Los Angeles -where my niece is a casting director, in Paris, in New York, Philadelphia. Blah Blah Blah

Don’t hold your breath – they didn’t use it. Guess my phony face should stay in my purse.

The personalities were served more and more glorious platters of food. The Director yelled CUT! The food disappeared. We got home at 2:00 in the morning, raided the refrigerator and ate everything we could find. Even hungry and lusting for sushi, I must say it was an exciting adventure. I also must say – WE LOVE GIUSEPPE AND TAWÃ!

Want to see who won? Wondering how our hometown place did? If you have a VPN you can set to Italy, you can watch the show – Benevento segment – Pazzi di Sushi. Check out how they voted – chopsticks tossed in a glass. Listen to each “advisors” criticism of the others. Guess who then gets the final vote?

SPOILER ALERT

Ci Vediamo!

Midge

For those of you who have been wondering where I’ve been, we came to New Jersey for the holidays and health issues turned me into a drooling marshmallow for about three months. I am now on the mend, my brain is functioning and you will be hearing more tales in the future. Thank you for your patience.

Zucca Rocks Borgo Cerquelle

Photo Courtesy of Borgo Cerquelle

Borgo Cerquelle is celebrating fall harvests in a joyfully orangey way – pumpkins have crept into every aspect of the bioagriturismo’s autumn offerings. We were lucky to have taste tested their light as a cloud pumpkin gnocchi. Sorry, we scarfed them down too fast to take a picture.

Before I start slurping the pot of pumpkin soup I just made from one of Borgo Cerquelle’s organic pumpkins, I need to explain how visiting this hilltop bioagriturismo is a leap back into the history of Pontelandolfo. Borgo Cerquelle is an ancient – well borgo – hamlet – that in the end of the 1600s housed contadini – peasant farmers. Built entirely of stone, the borgo has been repurposed into an incredible spot for locals and tourists. It is just a few minutes up the mountain from Pontelandolfo’s historic center. Those of you who know me, know that gulp, twisty mountain roads are not my favorite route to anywhere. Jack loves them! That said, Borgo Cerquelle, located about 600 m – 1970 feet – above sea level and surrounded by streams, woods, meadows and olive groves is worth the driving angst. The view of Pontelandolfo from there makes me want to sing Finian’s Rainbow “How are things in Glocca Morra.” Some days I do!

Some members of the original families have returned to visit and marvel at how Borgo Cerquelle was rehabbed, preserved intact and is alive again. Guests stay in the rustically furnished, heated rooms with an independent entrance and bathroom. I must admit, the original inhabitants did not have indoor plumbing. Thank goodness for that upgrade.

Our Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo participants stay here and have nothing but joyful comments about the place, the family who runs it and of course – the food.

 

Celebrating fall and the fabulous harvest found on this organic farm also means fall foliage. Borgo Cerquelle is in an area abundant with oak trees. I learned that “Cerquelle” is based on the ancient dialect name for oaks -“cerque.”

The family that has created this unusual place to eat and stay is headed by Alverio and Marianna. Alverio insists Marianna is the boss. They are more than ably assisted by their son Antonino and daughter Serena. Antonino wears the administrative hat now and his sister Serena takes care of the kitchen following the traditional recipes of his mother and grandmother. Serena is a talented potter and her creativity can be seen on every table. Antonino’s photos grace their website.

Sniff, sniff, my zuppa di zucca is percolating on the stove. Yummy. After a day at Borgo Cerquelle eating farm to table fare that featured pumpkins, I knew I had to bring a pumpkin home. You need to know that lunch at this bioagriturismo takes a minimum of three hours. There is no menu choice. What is fresh today is what is cooked. We have never had anything but an exceptional locally sourced feast.

Yeah, I have a pazillion pounds of pumpkin! Jack, borrowing a samurai sword, hacked it into manageable pieces. I had been gifted an old rooster that had outlived his cock-a-doodle and made a rich chicken – or is it rooster -stock. Now, how to put both these quite local food groups together? Simple. 1. Roast the pumpkin which makes it easier to cut up. 2. Take a scant head of garlic, dice it, toss it in the broth and let it simmer. (Garlic wards off fall flu.) 3. Toss in some old cheese rinds, tyme, rosemary, salt and pepper. 4. Let the roasted pumpkin cool. Ok, Jack made me let it cool. I am famous for burning my hands in the kitchen. 5. Cut up the pumpkin, toss it in the pot and let everything simmer to meld. 6. Take out the immersion blender, zzzzzzzzzzz, errrrrrrrrrr, it to a creamy texture. 7. EAT with hearty bread from Diglio Forno drizzled with Borgo Cerquelle savory pumpkin marmalade.

This fall, Borgo Cerquelle has offered a plethora of activities from harvesting, trips to the river, classes in cooking, ceramics, art therapy and my favorite APERITIVO! With a reservation, as the sun sets, we can zip up the mountain and enjoy a cocktail and incredible snacks. As the laughter of guests fills the fall air, an outdoor bar decorated for fall is the anchor.

When I asked Alverio why they do what they do. He explained that they want to revive the activities and traditions of the ancient inhabitants of the village. That means cultivating the land and raising animals organically, providing an oasis away from the stress of the city and offering an experience that is perfect for individuals and families. I have to say that every time I bring children there for lunch they race off to see the animals, climb the rope course and just plain old play.

HEY JACK WHEN YOU READ THIS BLOG POST – AND YOU BETTER BE READING MY BLOG POSTS – WE HAVE TO GO TO THIS AT BORGO CERQUELLE – werwolves and witches – huzzah!

The people, the place and the friendly wolf/dogs Vilcas e Tempesta make Borgo Cerquelle a great place to eat, relax, play and breath. I hope to run into you there.

A group of Cooking in the kitchens of Pontelandolfo cooks pose with Marianna, Antonino and Alverio.

Ci vediamo prossima volta,

Midge

Jack’s Birthday Almost Staycation

Dear easygoing Jack has one giant quirk. He hates birthday parties, birthday hats, birthday presents – just about anything that has to do with birthdays. Now, me, I adore all the bellowing, trimming, gifts, chaos and energy of everything birthday. Since Jack’s birthday is mid-August, we have developed a compromise. Simply called, “Jack’s Birthday Staycation.” There are no gifts, no whistles no party favors. However, the staycation is not at home but fifteen minutes away at Hotel Ristorante Il Grottino.

Jack may hate birthdays but he loves cake from Pontelandolfo’s Diglio Forno!

Why drive a scant few kilometers up another mountain for the staycation? The place is fabulous. There is a beautifully landscaped pool surrounded by mountain vistas, an outdoor seating restaurant area with linen tablecloths – OMG I sound like a snob – comfortable rooms with balconies, and the food is terrific. For the past few years, to celebrate another trip around the sun, we have booked a room for a few nights at Il Grottino. Michele and Giovanna, our hosts are friendly, accommodating and love what they have built. In other words, it is perfect for Jack. (Is it too self serving to say it is also perfect for Jack’s adorable wife?)

Each morning we got up promptly – ha ha – slowly, tossed on a bathing suit and wandered downstairs. The hotel has an elevator so folks in their second and third acts can easily get to the upstairs rooms. There waiting for us was a set table with croissants and the smiling Giovanna. Soon cappucini ( no spell checkers it is not misspelled – that is plural for cappucino) arrived with whatever else we wanted. The blue sky over the mountain, cool mountain breeze and lovely piped in music made the morning bright. We wandered to the pool and did what we do best on vacation.

Read! For me, read and wrote. This book is fabulous and written by my pal Adele.

I am working on a couple of plays. ‘I’m Ann” is about a Sicilian woman’s experiences in the USA. “Born to the Sea” is an exciting new musical about the Swedish VASA ship. And – this is super exciting – my 9/11 themed play “Email: 9/12” is being produced in 2026 by a company in the Netherlands. I am creating a monologue or two that takes place in Den Haag. All projects needed a breath of fresh air and Il Grottino provides just that. Jack read, snoozed pool side and smiled a lot.

Each day between snoozing, reading and writing we ate seafood lunches outdoors under the pergola. I love impepata di cozze, mussels steamed and served with a dash of pepper and their own juices. Giovanna served me an enormous bowl and I grinned bigger than Jack grins. Our New Jersey friend Maryann C. was visiting so she got to come to Il Grottino too. She had what I thought was a riff on my favorite dish, La Zuppa di Cozze. The mussels were steamed with tomatoes and served with points of focaccia. It too was exceptional.

Il Grottino is known locally for its metre long pizza. The place was packed one night with whole families there for pizza. What else could we do but order a three foot plus long pizza. Cleverly, the super charged pizza is divided by toppings. Jack loves pizza Margherita, Maryann wanted vegetables and I only eat pizza con tonno. The thin crusted mammoth pizza arrived with sections of each topping. All three of us dug right in and enjoyed each bite.

One of the reasons we come back each year is that the food is great. We also come back because the staff and owners are willing to go the extra mile to make guests comfortable. The real reason – being there makes Jack smile.

Happy Birthday Staycation to Jack. Thank you to Il Grottino, Giovanna and Michele.

Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Midge Guerrera

Need an Italian fix? Two thoughts – one pick up a copy of my humorous travel memoir – Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos – sip wine and feel the moments. Second, think about Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo next year.

Shepherd’s Pie starts at Macelleria Mancini

The following blog may contain content that vegans, vegetarians and lovers of small farm animals may find disturbing. Reader discretion is advised.

Did you ever lust for something so much that the thought of it made you salivate? Admit it, you have. This week all I could think about was eating lamb. I love roasted lamb, lamb chops, lamb-burgers and most of all real hearty Shepherd’s Pie made with – what else – lamb. The little baa baas had been tempting me for a month. Daily, I watched the little ones romp in Pontelandolfo’s verdant fields, stop traffic and then suddenly they disappeared . Disappearing lambs? My mind was wandering hither and yon, over hill and dale, wondering where Bo Peep was hiding the baby sheep.

Love the Lamb Jam. Driver beware.

My tummy wanted to find them. That is a big juicy lie. I did not want to find a lamb, I wanted to find mutton before it became mutton. Knowing that I would make Jack insane if I didn’t stop talking about Shepherd’s Pie, I dashed down the hill to Marcelleria Mancini.

One of the primary joys of living in Pontelandolfo is being able to shop at a real butcher, baker and cheese maker. Stefano Mancini of Marcelleria Mancini is an amazing butcher. All of his meats are locally sourced and he prides himself on working only with select farms. The meat found at Marcelleria Mancini tastes like meat that was on the hoof a few days ago. Free range, scrumptious and not spiced up with hormones. Of course, I would head there for lamb.

Stefano, our always smiling butcher.

What is wonderful about Stefano is that he doesn’t look at me like I’m crazy when I ask for something that most of my neighbors would ever ask for. Like agnello macinato – ground lamb. Not just ground but thickly ground. Here, ground meats are passed through the grinder a few times. For my rustic dish I wanted it rough.

Stefano looks at me and asked – what are you making? My Italian will get us fed, a room and a hospital but how do I explain Shepherd’s Pie – torta dei pastori? Sauté lamb with veggies and cap with butter-rich mashed potatoes. As I described it, I could see it and couldn’t wait to make it.

Dashing to the back room, Stefano returned holding aloft a leg of lamb. Literally, aloft. He was holding the leg by the tibia (shin bone), above the knee was the meaty thigh. La coscia sarebbe perfetto, he said. This is the first time that I realized that the leg of lamb we buy is really the thigh! That incredible meat would be perfect for my Shepherd’s Pie.

As the butcher deboned the meat, I asked if I could have the bones for bone broth. He was impressed that I would make a broth and promptly dashed the bones into manageable pieces. From leg to grinder to packaged, I soon had the lamb I needed for dinner and a package of bones.

Don’t tell Jack, please but another thing I love about Macelleria Mancini are their “pretend you spent the day making interesting meat based dishes.” Stefano’s fiancé, Ilaria, creates amazing to go dishes. As their website says: Avete voglia di qualcosa di sfizioso ma il tempo stringe !?! Passa a trovarci…tutti i giorni prepariamo diversi “pronti a cuocere”…con carni fresche e di qualità ! Craving something tasty but running out of time!?! Come visit us…every day we prepare different “ready-to-cook” dishes…with fresh, quality meats!

Pretty Isn’t It!

My Shepherd’s Pie was scrumptious- and I had made enough for a couple of days. After cooking the base, I made the mashed potatoes. No, I tried to make the mashed potatoes. Where are all my potatoes??? Merde, I only had four little potatoes. That would never be enough for my mashed topping. What do do???

Think about where you are and use what you have. What did I have corn meal for polenta? I made a batch of polenta, added Parmesan cheese, and mixed the polenta with with the potatoes. It was absolutely fabulous. My mashed potato – pontenta may become a carb mainstay.

Wherever you are enjoy what you make. Buy local and serve every meal with a smile.

And remember, you too can always come and Cook in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo.

Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Midgeguerrera

Can it Really Be 30 Years?

FaceBook sometimes feels like just another chore and then some photo or post will smack me in the face and send my memory cells careening around my brain. On April 15, 2025, my testa dura got smacked hard. Into my otherwise boring feed popped a picture of a handsome young man at his thirtieth birthday celebration. I started to sob. Not because, I wanted to be thirty and at that party – though that thought did enter my mind – but because I first met the now thirty year old Valerio Mancini in 1995. The year that changed our lives.

The adorable Valerio Mancini held by his beautiful mom, Carmela Fusco. 1995

1995 –  Jack and I accompanied my Aunt Catherine back the village she was born in, Pontelandolfo, Italy. That year, I had started a family tree and the three of us were on a quest to find more information.

Just to put 1995 in perspective, this is before we had a cell phone with a magic app that did instant translation. We had to get by on Jersey Girl balls and a big smile. Aunt Cat had had polio In Italy and at 80 something smiled like a wee elf sporting a big brace. Jack wheeled her to the municipal building and stopped. There were two flights of stairs to the anagrafe office. No worry, Aunt Cat beamed that magical smile at two local policemen who carried her up two flights of stairs in the chair. (This is what the Italian heart is all about.)

 The woman responsible for vital records spent about three hours with us going through all these old books dating back to the 1860s. Aunt Cat started speaking in an arcane Italian dialect and everybody understood her. Her face lit up. It was like she had just found heaven.  This was a language that was entrenched in her soul. A language that she never spoke at home and suddenly here she is and it’s possible again. We find all kinds of information. Like my Great Grandfather, Salvatore Guerrera, was married to Caterina Guerrera. Italian women keep their own names so my imagination went wild. Did he marry his cousin/sister – euuuch? Is that why I am just a little pazzo? Guerrera, we discovered, is a super common name. I licked my pencil point and kept on writing. We thanked everyone and found our way down the stairs and back to our car.

Now, we have about 6 handwritten pages of family tree and I haven’t the foggiest idea what we’re going to do with it. While staring at each other and standing in the almost empty Piazza Roma another vigile comes up to us. Having lived in Waterbury, Connecticut, He speaks English. Side Note – After World War Two, the lack of jobs and demolished towns were a catalyst for a mass exodus. There are more Pontelandolfese  in Connecticut today than there are in Pontelandolfo. 

Pietro Perugini, sporting his vigile uniform, walked right up to us. Asking if he could see the family tree, he pulled the notes from my hand, stared at them, got into the town police car and left.
 He left with all my notes. He just freaking left.  Three hours’ worth of notes and he gets in his car and he leaves.  What the f*&$?  I threw the biggest hissy fit imaginable.  All that work.  All that time going through the dusty books.  Had I unearthed a horrible town secret?  

The tantrum chock full of English curses started drawing a crowd.  Aunt Cat smacks me with her cane.  I’m thinking, OK OK, maybe like we’re related to really bad people and they don’t want us to know that we’re part of the baddest of bad evil people. Or maybe we’re royalty. That must be it – and and and and and they don’t want us to know because we really own this freaking Piazza.

I swear we waited for 3 ½ or 4 hours. but Jack said it was probably maybe 15 minutes. I don’t know. All that pacing was making me insane.  Officer Perugini finally came back and said, “I think I found your relatives follow me.”

 We get Anne Catherine back in the car and we followed to row houses on a side hilly street.  I found out later that after a devastating earthquake that eradicated homes dating back to the 1600s, this public housing was built.  Since the houses were crammed next to each other, it was tongue in cheek branded as Shanghai.  The vigile and I knocked on a door. A little old lady tentatively opens the door and with a fierce look stares at us. I’m holding the family tree and pointing I say here I am and there you are.  The policeman says it in Italian. Actually, I have no idea what he’s saying but I’m guessing it’s ‘here she is and there you are.’ Bamm, the door was slammed in our faces.

Jack had parked and Aunt Catherine is, with great difficulty, dragging her leg, holding on to Jack and walking toward this house.  I knock on the door again. Again, I’m greeted by a scowling woman, but also a smiling younger woman holding a baby saying “come on in for coffee.” Obviously mother and daughter don’t agree about what to do with these strange Americans. The old woman is essentially saying we know no one in America and we don’t want to. The young woman with an adventuresome gleam in her eye is curious. They see and hear Catherine say in her little voice from the road “are you my cousin?”

The three of us were in the doorway. Aunt Cat asked again, “tu e mia cugina?”   

The old woman replied, Jesu e Maria. Ora e sempre, Caterina Guerrera had recalled the ancient greeting. Both women started to cry and hugged. 

Giuseppina Guerrera and Caterina Guerrera meet.

Suddenly, Giuseppina Guerrera, who we discovered was indeed Aunt Cat’s first cousin, starts to ask her 20 questions. It was better than any of those quiz shows. The million dollar question was – Libero Capporosso. Conosci  libero caparoso? I’m thinking who the hell is Libero Capparoso? A light went off, the audience cheered as Anne Catherine said – “bookie.”   Libero means book in Italian.  He had left the village and come to New Jersey and stayed with our family. Bookie was the magic answer that opened the door to our hearts and love for Pontelandolfo.

That day, we also found another family and first cousin, Carmine Manna. Both families have embraced us. Because of them we became part of the greater Pontelandolfo family.

Thank you Valerio for posting your birthday bash on Facebook. Thank you for being part of our extended family. Thank you for reminding me how blessed we are to have found our roots in Pontelandolfo. That you for being that wee baby boy who smiled and welcomed us home.

Ci Vediamo

Midge

Happy Holidays from the Sannio Hills

This year we are celebrating the holidays in the Sannio Hills of Southern Italy. The house is ablaze with lights. Thanks to our talented landlord, there is even a 20 foot tall Italian flag that seems to billow in the breeze. Inside, with the pellet fire roaring and a single malt to sip, I’ve been ensconced in a comfy chair binge reading a series by Carlen O’Connor. The books set in a small Irish village made me realize that village life, wherever your village is, has a similarity. People taking care of each other. Holiday events filling calendars. Decorations making every village even more beautiful. Scents of baking, prepping and bubbling fill kitchens. The shops are stocked with “must have” new goods and their instagram feeds are bursting with photos. We are blessed to live in such a village.

Is everything perfect? Nah. That charming roaring pellet fire is our boiler. That means freezing or filling the pellet stove with 30 pound bags of pellets, cleaning the pellet stove and dragging the ash vacuum outside to empty; cursing at the error 12 on the freakin’ pellet stove; searching for that wool sweater that we (Jack) swore he left here; and of course seeing mountains of baccalà in every market and enough delectable sweets to keep me lying on the couch binging holiday movies for weeks. Sounds terrible – not! Yes, there is snow on the mountain peaks. Yes, the wind is whipping in the Sannio Hills. Yes, our cheeks are rosy. AND YES this little village is full of happiness, good cheer and enriching our lives.

Village life and Pontelandolfese have warmed my soul. Nicola makes sure the too heavy for me to even drag bags of pellets are near our door. Lina arrived with enough homemade pasta for me to freeze for Christmas Day. Adele dropped everything when I had a WHOA was that an earthquake vertigo attack and quickly got me into see a specialist. Our car was in the shop for 7 days – don’t ask. Alessio has turned his free time into “drive Midge wherever she needs to go time.” Other people hearing through the village network that our car was on the fritz, offered to drag our butts wherever we needed to be.

Starting with the December 8th lighting of the Christmas lights in Piazza Roma, we have been out and about enjoying the season. Pontelandolfo, as I’ve bellowed from the rooftops before, is full of creative and energetic folks who produce events, art, and cultural happenings. Check out the calendar –

This holiday season enjoy your village, wherever you are. Spread the good cheer, love and peace that warms the hearts of others. Buon Natale! Buona Feste!

Midge

PS. La Befana arrives during epiphany bringing candy or coal to Italian Children throughout the world. Take a peek at the play I wrote. It is available through Next Stage Press. Mamma Mia, La Befana??!!

PPS. Did I mention the lights? Enjoy –

14 Agosto 1861 – August 14, 1861

14 Agosto 1861. August 14, 1861. Books have been written, art has been created, songs have been song, blogs developed, plays have been performed, movies have been made, Pontelandolfo remembers, but have lessons been learned?

Genocide is hard to forget or forgive and yet genocide continues all over the world. OK, I am not a historian and I am calling the 1861 rape, pillage, burning and shooting of the people and places in Pontelandolfo genocide. Genocide done by the Italian army. An army that was told to annihilate everyone in the village. Italians killing Italians. Wow, in today’s world that sounds familiar.

A little back story – thanks to Pontelandolfo News – Renato Rinaldi and San Felese Society of New Jersey for a history lesson. This is all about money, power and who should be in charge. The unification of Italy and booting of the Bourbon Dynasty didn’t make everyone happy.

On August 13, 1861 General Cialdini commander of the Piedmont forces in southern Italy was getting reports from throughout southern Italy, especially in the rural southern countryside, about folks rebelling against the new regime. 

 He was outraged to hear that about 45 Piedmont soldiers had been killed by some rebels between Pontelandolfo and Casaldini in the province of Benevento. General Cialdini – think central casting super evil dude – loved punishing pro-Bourbonist southern Italians. Actually, bang, bang, he adored having his minions kill any pro-Bourbonist. 

 Why were Southern Italians so pissed off? With a new king, new government and pocket lining politicos, life changed dramatically. Decisions that seemed anti-south were imposed by Piedmont controlled local politicians as well as by central northern “national” politicians in Turin.

General Cialdini orders his field general in Campania, General De Sonnaz, to get rid of those blasted rebels and townspeople who had had the audacity to call for a Bourbon return. De Sonnaz passed the job on to Colonel Pier Eleonoro Negri.

Loving revenge, Italian Colonel Negri directed his men to launch an attack.  As Pontelandolfese calmly slept, an indignant, Colonel Negri ordered that his soldiers destroy the community.  Leave no stone left standing, he cried. (This command will forever seem extreme.) Entering Pontelandolfo in the middle of the night, Negri easily attacked.  Within moments, the countryside was in turmoil. 

Executions Under the Tilia Tree:

Italian soldiers crept into Pontelandolfo in the middle of the night.  Everyone was asleep.  Within minutes soldiers started pounding on doors, the church bells started to ring, guns were fired, boots pounded on the cobblestones.  Sleeping families woke up.  Holding their drowsy babies, parents wondered what was going on.
Racing to windows, balconies and doors, the Pontelandolfese were shocked to see soldiers running through their streets. The Italian Army had arrived, and everyone had a right to be afraid. The soldiers, kicked in doors, leaped up stairs, raced into homes killing men, women and children. They stole things and did things I don’t want to think about.  Flames soared into the night sky, and the village burned. The people that tried to fight back were dragged under the Tilia Tree in Piazza Roma and shot. Bang, bang!

Renato Rinaldi is the publisher of the Pontelandolfo News. He was a professor, as well as, a former Officer of the Navy.  Rinaldi is a passionate researcher of local history and has provided an in-depth look at the Pontelandolfo massacre of August 14, 1861.  As an author, he keeps the history of Pontelandolfo before us. We thank him for that.  We also thank him for his assistance with bringing Pontelandolfo to the world at large. He was instrumental in creating a village walking tour of the massacre of 1861. (I’m not sure if that is a real tourism draw but it is great for our school kids to learn our history. ) He had written stories to go with each stop on that tour and asked me to translate them into English. A few years ago, I did just that and printed a little pamphlet. Here is one of the graphic tales –

CONCETTA BIONDI

The story of Concetta Biondi has come to represent the disdain the mercenaries in the Italian army had for all that was good and pure. Women were treated like chattel and passed from man to man. Children were tossed aside like garbage. Husbands and fathers were held by laughing plunderers and forced to watch the mayhem.

As the marauders plundered the city, young Concetta Biondi, fearing the inhuman assailants, hid behind some barrels of wine in her family’s basement. When the young maiden was discovered by the mercenaries she fainted. Like cats with a mouse they toyed with her. Her father, Nicolas Biondi, charged down the steps to save her. He was quickly tied to a chair and forced to watch the debauchery. Finally, with a murderous hand, soldier killed this delicate flower and tossed her aside. Wine poured out of the barrels mingling with Concetta’s blood.

Tonight, we will be going to see the latest play about the massacre. It is written by our pal Michele Albini. As long as the story gets told, perhaps the lessons will be learned.

Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Midge

Award Winning
Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo

Is now organizing for 2025!
Lively Learning is also exploring artist, writer and musician retreats.
Contact me for more information. info@nonnasmulberrytree.com

Playwrights Come to Pontelandolfo

Write Where You Are, a non profit committed to providing playwrights with a variety of opportunities, is sponsoring its first Playwright’s Retreat! Administrative Director, Jonathan Samarro, has been working with a group of Pontelandolfese – gulp, that includes me – on creating the perfect October 14th to the 23rd, 2025 experience.

Write Where You Are 2024: Pontelandolfo offers playwrights the space, time, and community needed to move forward in their work.  The Italian landscape and village life are a great catalyst for creativity.  In addition to providing time for ones own daily writing, they’ll offer activities to inspire you, from master classes in playwriting, to a stimulating array of cultural events and opportunities to socialize with fellow writers as well as local people.   This is your time to nurture your work.

Write Where You Are – Pontelandolfo participants will share large double rooms in La Locanda della Presuntuosa, a large villa on acres of land.

Pontelandolfo’s cobblestone streets take you to a castle tower, cafés, ancient Roman churches and miniature works of art hidden within an area steeped in history and culture where the main plaza is still the center of town life and lore.

The retreat is only open to eight people. ONE SPOT REMAINS! Playwrights who participate in other Write Where You Are experiences signed up quickly. Interested in that one last spot? Contact Jonathan for more information – jonathanjsamarro@gmail.com.

INCLUDED HIGHLIGHTS: October 14 – 23, 2024

  • Transportation from the Benevento Train Station to Pontelandolfo
  • 10 nights a villa near the historic center of Pontelandolfo. 
  • Most meals are included, either out or cooked by our host/cook. Vegetarians can be accommodated.
  • Arrival Day Bar Crawl will help you know the town and for them to meet you.
  • Local Sourced Food Lunch at Agriturismo Borgo Cerquelle
  • Master Classes with Rosemary McLaughlin, director of the Playwriting Program at Drew University.
  • English Speaking Translator for all Italian centered events.
  • Daily opportunity for participants to share work.
  • Opportunity to meet and talk to Italian theater professionals. (https://solot.it/chi-siamo/)
  • Wine and artesian food tasting at a local vintner.
  • Excursion to Altilia Roman Ruins
  • Traditions of Historical Pontelandolfo – hunt for family crests and learn to roll cheese, la ruzzola. Cheese rolling is a sport that is now recognized and goes back centuries.
  • Excursion to Benevento – museum, Teatro Romano, Hortus Conclusus and explore historic center.
  • Optional Excursion to Reggio Caserta. Tickets are currently €15.
  • Wood-fired pizza made high in the Sannio hills in a centuries old oven.
  • Transportation to all workshops and events.

Ci vediam a presto!

Midge

Longing for a trip to Italy but are doing a staycation? Sip a Prosecco and read my humorous travel memoir, Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos. Published by Read Furiously.

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