Fall Harvests – More Than Just Olives

Pontelandolfo’s fields of potatoes dug up, saved, cooked and eaten!

What do you do when your good friend Mariann arrives with a trunk load of potatoes? No, Mariann didn’t grow them, her lovely neighbor who has a huge farm and always brings her fruit and vegetables, did. There were too many potatoes for Maryann to deal with, so she graciously popped by with some for me. Well, maybe I didn’t really get a trunk full. Maybe I just got pounds and pounds. Don’t ask me how many pounds it was too heavy to carry. So, I figured that it had to be about a pazillion pounds.

Now came the dilemma, what do I do with them? Mash and freeze? Chop, blanch and freeze? Stare at the box? I really didn’t want to just use the local delicious potatoes for mundane mashed potatoes. Hmmmm, I thought, it’s almost winter here in the Sannio Hills. What would be better than having potato soup in the freezer to eat on a cold and stormy night? Never having made potato soup, the first thing I did was what every good chef does. I googled potato soup! I started with the New York Times recipes. Then I went onto the Pioneer woman and then I went onto. I don’t even remember what I read or who I stole ideas from. I do remember, I sipped a scotch because one should sip a scotch when making potato soup. Scrambling all the recipes in my brain, I amalgamated what I thought were the best of the best and it worked.

So here is my magic hearty potato soup adventure, made with potatoes farmed in my favorite Italian village, Pontelandolfo. Number one, open your refrigerator and take out any leftover bits and pieces of prosciutto, pancetta or plain old bacon and chop it up into tiny baby pieces. I had two or three cups worth. Put that in a bowl and sip more scotch. Then grab the celery, onions and carrots and get ready to make that wonderful Italian thing called – called. What is the French name – come on you know – mirepoix! There must be something like that in Italian for my two or three cups worth of carrots, celery, and onions, chopped into tiny baby pieces. Soffritto! Put them in a bowl. Where is my sous chef! (Don’t tell anyone – I altered the soffritto recipe. Since I can’t eat anything without garlic I also added chopped up garlic.) The biggest prep bowl contained the potatoes which had been really washed. Dug up with love, they were covered in local mud. I peeled and diced them into tiny pieces.

Time to start cooking. Don’t put anything in the bottom of a heavy Dutch oven except the chopped up leftover pieces of fatty meat and let them sizzle. Stir and toss until all the fat has oozed out. When you have a nice greasy bottom and crispy pieces then add the soffritto. Bopping to my blues playlist, I kept stirring them and enjoying the marvelous scents. When they were soft, I added the potatoes, covered them with water and tossed in cheese rinds, salt and pepper. Cheese rinds are one of my go to “herbs.” We buy our cheese locally and I save rind trims in the freezer. They add a richness to everything. Then I put a lid on the pot lowered the flame to barely there and walked away for eight hours.

Not one of the cookbooks said to slow cook the soup. But, I figured if you wanted to get a rich flavor and you weren’t going to use chicken broth or beef broth or some other broth, but just that wonderful blend of root vegetables slow cook it! Besides if you slow cook something, you don’t have to watch it. Oh, I forgot, when I added the potatoes, I also added chopped parsley. Obviously local parsley stolen from Zia Victoria’s garden. Later that day when the potatoes were soft, I remembered that one recipe said add butter and heavy cream. Well, I didn’t have heavy cream so I added partially skimmed milk and about 200 grams of butter. The soup looked interesting but it didn’t look extra creamy. I got out my immersion blender and a colander. I took half of the potatoes out of the liquid – what a mess. Actually, it would be easier with another person holding the colander over the pot with half of the potatoes in it. Brrrrrrrrr, my immersion blender and made what remained into a heavy creamy base. Then I added back the potatoes, gave it a stir added more salt and pepper tasted it and went “ah ha.” I knew just what it needed – fresh grated cheeses from Sannio Latte. After throwing in a couple handfuls, I let the soup simmer for a bit and then, Jack and I enjoyed the most delectable homegrown potato soup. Yes, I did freeze a batch too.

Let me know if you have a favorite way to use a truck full of potatoes!

Ci vediamo!

Midge

Speaking of Fall! My play, Many Snows Ago, is the perfect fall addition to any elementary school classroom. Each scene is a complete story that shares the history, humor and knowledge of the indigenous Eastern Woodland People. It is available from Next Stage Press.

Zucca Rocks Borgo Cerquelle

Photo Courtesy of Borgo Cerquelle

Borgo Cerquelle is celebrating fall harvests in a joyfully orangey way – pumpkins have crept into every aspect of the bioagriturismo’s autumn offerings. We were lucky to have taste tested their light as a cloud pumpkin gnocchi. Sorry, we scarfed them down too fast to take a picture.

Before I start slurping the pot of pumpkin soup I just made from one of Borgo Cerquelle’s organic pumpkins, I need to explain how visiting this hilltop bioagriturismo is a leap back into the history of Pontelandolfo. Borgo Cerquelle is an ancient – well borgo – hamlet – that in the end of the 1600s housed contadini – peasant farmers. Built entirely of stone, the borgo has been repurposed into an incredible spot for locals and tourists. It is just a few minutes up the mountain from Pontelandolfo’s historic center. Those of you who know me, know that gulp, twisty mountain roads are not my favorite route to anywhere. Jack loves them! That said, Borgo Cerquelle, located about 600 m – 1970 feet – above sea level and surrounded by streams, woods, meadows and olive groves is worth the driving angst. The view of Pontelandolfo from there makes me want to sing Finian’s Rainbow “How are things in Glocca Morra.” Some days I do!

Some members of the original families have returned to visit and marvel at how Borgo Cerquelle was rehabbed, preserved intact and is alive again. Guests stay in the rustically furnished, heated rooms with an independent entrance and bathroom. I must admit, the original inhabitants did not have indoor plumbing. Thank goodness for that upgrade.

Our Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo participants stay here and have nothing but joyful comments about the place, the family who runs it and of course – the food.

 

Celebrating fall and the fabulous harvest found on this organic farm also means fall foliage. Borgo Cerquelle is in an area abundant with oak trees. I learned that “Cerquelle” is based on the ancient dialect name for oaks -“cerque.”

The family that has created this unusual place to eat and stay is headed by Alverio and Marianna. Alverio insists Marianna is the boss. They are more than ably assisted by their son Antonino and daughter Serena. Antonino wears the administrative hat now and his sister Serena takes care of the kitchen following the traditional recipes of his mother and grandmother. Serena is a talented potter and her creativity can be seen on every table. Antonino’s photos grace their website.

Sniff, sniff, my zuppa di zucca is percolating on the stove. Yummy. After a day at Borgo Cerquelle eating farm to table fare that featured pumpkins, I knew I had to bring a pumpkin home. You need to know that lunch at this bioagriturismo takes a minimum of three hours. There is no menu choice. What is fresh today is what is cooked. We have never had anything but an exceptional locally sourced feast.

Yeah, I have a pazillion pounds of pumpkin! Jack, borrowing a samurai sword, hacked it into manageable pieces. I had been gifted an old rooster that had outlived his cock-a-doodle and made a rich chicken – or is it rooster -stock. Now, how to put both these quite local food groups together? Simple. 1. Roast the pumpkin which makes it easier to cut up. 2. Take a scant head of garlic, dice it, toss it in the broth and let it simmer. (Garlic wards off fall flu.) 3. Toss in some old cheese rinds, tyme, rosemary, salt and pepper. 4. Let the roasted pumpkin cool. Ok, Jack made me let it cool. I am famous for burning my hands in the kitchen. 5. Cut up the pumpkin, toss it in the pot and let everything simmer to meld. 6. Take out the immersion blender, zzzzzzzzzzz, errrrrrrrrrr, it to a creamy texture. 7. EAT with hearty bread from Diglio Forno drizzled with Borgo Cerquelle savory pumpkin marmalade.

This fall, Borgo Cerquelle has offered a plethora of activities from harvesting, trips to the river, classes in cooking, ceramics, art therapy and my favorite APERITIVO! With a reservation, as the sun sets, we can zip up the mountain and enjoy a cocktail and incredible snacks. As the laughter of guests fills the fall air, an outdoor bar decorated for fall is the anchor.

When I asked Alverio why they do what they do. He explained that they want to revive the activities and traditions of the ancient inhabitants of the village. That means cultivating the land and raising animals organically, providing an oasis away from the stress of the city and offering an experience that is perfect for individuals and families. I have to say that every time I bring children there for lunch they race off to see the animals, climb the rope course and just plain old play.

HEY JACK WHEN YOU READ THIS BLOG POST – AND YOU BETTER BE READING MY BLOG POSTS – WE HAVE TO GO TO THIS AT BORGO CERQUELLE – werwolves and witches – huzzah!

The people, the place and the friendly wolf/dogs Vilcas e Tempesta make Borgo Cerquelle a great place to eat, relax, play and breath. I hope to run into you there.

A group of Cooking in the kitchens of Pontelandolfo cooks pose with Marianna, Antonino and Alverio.

Ci vediamo prossima volta,

Midge