The summer season is almost over and the shore towns on the Adriatic Sea are slowing down. Jack and I thought that this would be a great time to explore, Termoli, a small city that we have flashed through once or twice before. I booked a hotel that was right on the sea and adjacent to the sea wall of Termoli’s historic center. In the province of Molise, this shore point is less than an hour and a half from our home in Pontelandolfo.
After checking in, sipping aperitivi by the sea, we climbed what felt like a million steps up to centro storico. The ancient city reminded us architecturally of one of our favorite places in Italy, Alghero Sardegna. (Shout out to the best language school ever – Alghero’s Pintadera.) We wandered the cobblestone streets, stared at the sea, and then I froze – there was a wee alley festooned with white lights, tables classically set and with an artsy vibe that took us back to Venice. (Read the blog Searching for Goldoni and you’ll understand.)
I decided that we absolutely had to eat there. Since it was only 7:30 PM, and way too early to eat, I needed to make a reservation for the yet unnamed space. Around the corner from the alley, we saw a handsome, curly haired man sitting by the restaurant’s front door. He smiled. I smiled and asked if there was a table for two available tonight in the alley.
“Si, signora – quale il sua nome?”
“Midge.”
“Midge?” He looked at me quizzically and probably thought, “Her mother named her after a small annoying fly?”
I shrugged and speaking the barely uttered truth said, “Margherita.”
He scrawlled “Margherita” on a scrap of paper, handed it to me and told me to choose a table, put my name under the water glass and come back whenever we wanted dinner. Then –
“Tu sei inglese?”
“No, sono americana.”
“Da dove?”
“New Jersey – ma vicino Philadelphia.”
“La mia moglie parle “Americano. Lei da Rochester – vicino New Jersey?”
Then and there it was decided that I should meet his wife! I mean, maybe somewhere between Rochester and New York/Jersey we might have run into each other during our decadent youths in some bar or another.
Jack and I continued our pre-dinner passeggiata and tried to keep our tourist faces at bay. The stillness of the old town, the colors of the buildings, the scent of the sea and the warm breeze made it a beautiful evening. Eventually, we made our way back to –
“Jack, what was the name of the restaurant?”
“I don’t know. You were talking to the owner. Don’t you remember how to get back there?”
“Of course I do.”
(I mean we only meandered up and down a few narrow vicoli, posed for a selfie near the sea wall and entered three different piazza since we made the reservation. )
“I will swiftly guide us back,” I lied.
Yes, I lied. But since the centro storico is enclosed by a wall, I managed to guide us back to Sognadoro, Via Rocco Mugnano,3 in Termoli! (For purposes of the blog, Midge, the smart-ass, looked up the address.)
We got back, found our reserved table waiting, looked at each other and smiled. What a cool environment. A young gregarious waiter appeared, brought our local white wine and asked if we knew what we wanted. What happened next couldn’t have been played out better by Netflix. Just as Jack started to say “tonno,” the owner, Francesco Sciscillo, came over, took away the menus and told us to wait.
We waited, he returned with a fish that was so fresh it was still jumping. You are all wondering what kind of fish it was. I am too. We are calling it the former alive fish called X. X had been very recently caught, right here in the Adriatic Sea.
Rats – I took the video in the wrong direction but you’ll get the point.
The thinly sliced fresh X was drizzled in olive oil from Francesco’s trees and spritzed with a dash of fresh lemon. Who knew that something so simple and swiftly prepared would be absolutely incredible.
Next appeared calamari fritti. Jack tries calamari everywhere we go. When I saw it, my fork of its own volition dashed into the plate. Tender, tender, tender. I immediately noticed that the calamari had not been cut into rings but had been sliced into rectangles. In the future, I too will prepare them this way. Each bite was full of flavor. They had been be very lightly coated in flower and flash fried. Yummmm.
Enjoyed more than you can imagine.
I don’t remember what else we ate, I do remember an enjoyable night spent in conversation and laughter. A young woman approached the table, introduced herself as Anna and said that her mother would be getting out of work soon and was anxious to meet us. The effervescent mom, Patrizia, regaled us with tales of making the transition between life in Rochester, New York and Termoli. The building that housed the restaurant had been in her husband’s family for generations. There was such pride in her voice as she spoke of his family and her family. A photo of Francesco’s mother is prominently placed inside the restaurant. Obviously, the sea and what it provides plays a preeminent role in their lives. She is climbing onto the fishing pier.
We were so enamored with the food, setting and family that the next day we returned for lunch. The entire family was seated at the “family table” and greeted us warmly. As the only customers, I suggested we simply eat what Francesco was serving the others. What a smart move! Polpette, ground fish and spices formed into but not to be confused with packaged fish sticks, were served in a rich red sauce. Next was a simple but tasty dish of chicory, red pepper and sepia. Great conversation, perfect lunch and then I saw something I didn’t like. Obvious tourists stopped outside the restaurant, pulled out their phones and stood there reading. Then they smirked a little and left. Smack me in the head – they were looking at reviews. Why would they leave? I quickly scanned the obvious sites. WHAT??? The place only had a few reviews on each site but there was a theme – rude owner, bad food, lousy atmosphere. TOTAL BULLSHIT! All we could think of was that the scant reviews were posted by someone who was jealous or opening their own place. Lesson learned – DON’T TRUST REVIEWS. I never look at reviews. That is a lie – wow two lies in one blog. That same night I asked at the hotel what place they would recommend for dinner. Then I looked the restaurant up – 5 stars everywhere. We ate there. 0 stars from us – boring tourist fare. The learned lesson was reinforced. In our quest for meals, we will continue to wander back lanes of towns until we find a place that just calls to us.
As we walked out the door that day, we looked at each other and both knew that Sognadoro would be on the top of our “lets go for a ride and eat something wonderful” short list.
Pontelandolfese and lovers of Italy wherever you are – check out my tourist guide to Pontelandolfo’s historic center – written in English and Italian.Or simply enjoy the life we lead in Italy by reading my humorous travel memoir.
Whaaaaat? You want me to climb up those two thousand year old steps to look at some little thingy that means some rich dude lived here?
Not a rich dude’s crest but the Wind God!
That is exactly what I want you to do! Visit Pontelandolfo and explore the historic center by searching for gli stemmi – crests. The adventure in urban trekking will be fascinating.
Urban Trekking is happening in cities across the world. Annarita Mancini and I worked together to create a tourism guide for our medieval village that brings urban trekking to a different level. I’m the author and Annarita was the translator. Together we have published An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo. This guidebook provides readers with clues to unearth tiny pieces of art hidden throughout the village. It can be a team sport with trekkers challenging each other to find the most crests or a slow meditative look and walk.
This is not your typical tour guide. Like I would do something typical – yawn I’m bored thinking about it. You all know I spend a lot of time in Pontelandolfo blogging about life in a small Italian town. Some days I need a reason to get off my butt, leave the office and wend my way through the ancient alleys. My search for the crests was a great incentive to walk through the old part of town and get a sense of what life was like for my ancestors.
Annarita Mancini, who is an exceptional teacher of Italian, noted that having the clues written in both English and Italian not only make the book useful to more people but is an excellent way to explore a new language.
It really took a village to create this book. One day writing in the Pontelandolfo Library, I discovered a stack of faded little blue pamphlets called Stemmi gentilizi aPontelandolfo written by researchers/authors Litterio Villari and Pia Piacquadio. With a donation to the library, I grabbed a pamphlet and accompanied by Maria Vittoria Albini raced out of the building in search of a crest.
Battista Family
Local historians Carmine Fusco and Antimo Albini assisted in the project by reading the draft and adding bits of local lore. Pontelandolfo residents (and Nonna’s Mulberry Tree subscribers – hint hint) Mariann Prigioni and Jeff Millard had the trekking task of following the clues to see if one could really find all the crests.
Now, local visitors to Pontelandolfo can get a copy of An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfoand also do some urban trekking. It is only an E-book now. Hard cover to follow when I get to formatting it. Yikes, who knew self publishing would be work?
E-readers will follow the clues and photographs of family crests on their phones. Actually, I think this is the best way to use the book. On your phone you can enlarge the photos and refer to the map. This quest for the crests offers a unique and captivating experience that is challenging, fun, creative and exciting! Perfect for adults, children and families. So, grab your camera, walk around beautiful Pontelandolfo, discover the riches of history and unearth hidden ancient traditions.
Book 1 in our Urban Trekking Series – Any town want to hire me to do theirs?
E-book versions of An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo are currently available on Amazon, Barnes and Noble, Kobo and other retailers.
Not just any Norma but Pasta alla Norma! Who knew that my favorite summer vegetable – melanzana – could be part of a pasta plate so scrumptious? Just thinking about it puts a satisfied smile on my face. Probably all of you knew about the Sicilian primo piatto. A delicate blend of eggplant, pasta, crushed tomatoes and… Finding Norma for me was an incredible accident or a woo woo moment.
My niece, Alessandra, and I were exploring Benevento. Our provincial capital is a fabulous city – particularly the historic center. Walled in by Mura Lonogobarde it is full of museums, art, shops and of course bars. Early in the day, we parked in Piazza Risorgimento, stopped for collezione at – a bar, stared down Corso Garibaldi and planned our unplanned day. Knowing we had to walk off the cappuccini and croissants, we started our exploration by walking around an interesting old looking building. Actually, it was not just old but ancient. The huge tower that attracted us was built by the Lombards in the 6th century. Two guards were outside – young and gorgeous I might add – so we figured the place housed something precious. It was the Rocca dei Rettoi e Giardini della Rocca. That translates to the fortress of the rector. The exterior garden was lush and offered an amazing vista of the city below. “Attenti” we heard. Looking over at the older gentleman who had bellowed, I wondered if we were standing too close to the edge of the overview. Whoosh – first the sound and then nooooo – the water. He had started the sprinkler system. Laughing but wet, we skidaddled over to the building. Shadowing us was one of the guards. Hmm, what wonderful stuff must be housed here. Or was he shadowing my gorgeous niece? There was an internal courtyard that is used for cultural events and features some ancient pieces of architectural sculptures. Slabs outside and inside, I’m told, were a collection from the ancient Via Traiana. The advertised museum was closed. We found il bagno, used the necessary resources and moved on.
The Torrione is 28 meters tall.
A bit above the tower was Villa Comunale. I kept looking for a big house but Villa Comunale is the name of the park that overlooks the city. One can meander on shaded paths, sit on a bench to watch the world go by or some nights listen to classical music under the stars. We found the bandstand but couldn’t figure out if people brought their own chairs, stood around or if the city set up chairs. One of the things I love about the Italians here is their ability to reuse, repurpose and create something from nothing. At the entrance to the park is this interesting piece of art. Is it a serpent, a reindeer, a crocodile, a…
This fallen tree becomes a work of art! Looks prehistoric to me.
Corso Garibaldi is a wide avenue that has been closed to traffic. It meanders down hill from Villa Comunale all the way to Piazza Cardinale Pacca and when one is walking downhill feels like it is a scant half mile long. When a woman in her third act is walking back up the hill is at least a pazzilion miles long. It is full of history and Italian designer shops. Being modern women with no purpose, we started with the history. I had never visited Santa Sofia, a small Roman Catholic Church that was built in the late eighth century. Thank the goddesses, no one tore it down to put up a McDees. In 2011, as part of a group of seven buildings inscribed as Longobards in Italy – Places of the Power 568-774 AD, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sitting on the ancient wooden benches – Alessandra gave me the “you are my pazzo zia” look because I mentioned that I actually felt my grandmom next to me. But I did! To attend festivals in Benevento, she and my aunt and uncles would walk all the way from Pontelandolfo! They camped out in fields along the way. I figure a significant place like Chiesa Santa Sofia, had to be a stop along the way. Sitting there was a powerful and our first woo woo moment.
Baptismal Font in Santa Sofia
Time to hit designer shops – not that the museums aren’t a draw, they really are. If you don’t believe me, go to the Campania Tourism Website and check it out. We enjoyed shopping with only our eyes so much that the morning raced by. Growls from our bellies made us realize it was time for lunch. Alessandra opened up the Trip Adviser app and looked for local restaurants. She found one that had 300 positive reviews and was ALLEGEDLY close by. We walked and walked and I bitched and bitched and then we found it. A takeaway place that, though they obviously have lots of friends,looked to smarmy to enter. We used our native noses and found our way back to Corso Garibaldi. Now down which tiny medieval alley will we possibly find a restaurant? WAHHHH – that was Zia Midge crying. We couldn’t find anything. Time to do aggressive searching. I went into Arcos, a wonderful museum of modern art and Egyptology. The man behind the counter was so nice.
I’m not from here, I just work here and I don’t eat here.
Ok, Ok, I did not give up. You may not eat here but must have heard of other people going somewhere to eat.
Well there is a place around the corner, directly behind the museum.
Fainting with hnger we dragged ourselves behind the museum and saw a sign that said, Trattoria Santa Sofia. We walked in to a fairly empty space and wondered what we had gotten into. The owner escorted us to a dark room with about five tables preset. The only diner was a priest. As Alessandra went to sit down – her chair moved. A magical move – enough to feel but not enough to make her fall on her butt. We looked at each other. Was it the priest? Santa Sofia? The owner walked over and recited the meals of the day. We both heard the word melanzane and still weirded by the chair said we would take whatever was made with eggplant.
Alessandra looked at me with dreamy eyes and said,” I hope it is Pasta alla Norma.”
Who is Norma? A mom of a pal?
Aunt Midge, Pasta alla Norma is in every Italian restaurant in Los Angeles.
(Obviously, she lives in LA and is a casting director in the biz.) I had never heard of it. She explained that as a vegetarian – yeah, LA – she always looks for scrumptious meatless meals. Then she described Pasta alla Norma – a heavy pasta with a light fresh tomato sauce, sautéed eggplant and onions with bits of fresh mozzarella teasing the palate. She sighed. Seriously, a big sigh for a pasta.
A lovely salad came out first and we annihilated it. The accompanying bread was wonderful too. Looking over my shoulder at the owner carrying in plates of pasta, Alessandra began to smile and clap with delight. She knew exactly what the pasta plates were – Pasta alla Norma. We ate it slowly and with great dignity. Savoring each morsel of pasta, eggplant and mozzarella.
There are lots of different recipes on line for this dish, which is a Sicilian staple. Many have ricotta cheese, others do not. Our wonderful gastronomic moment was sans ricotta cheese. We will return to Trattoria Santa Sofia located at Via Stefano Borgia, 7 in Benevento. Don’t be confused but – Trattoria Santa Sofia is right next to Chiesa del Santissimo Salvatore!
Who knew that Norma would also become my favorite chef. Norma, I don’t know who you are, where you lived or how you did this but Grazie mille.
Annarita Mancini and I finished our Pontelandolfo Guide! An Italian Treasure Hunt – The Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo! Una Caccia al Tesoro Italiana – Alla Ricerca Degli Stemmi di Pontelandolfo!
If you are in Italy and anywhere near Pontelandolfo (BN), put July 31st and August 1st on your calendar – immediately. Even if you are not nearby – put it in your calendar and come to Pontelandolfo. At 9:30 PM in Piazza Roma you will be astounded by an incredible theatrical spectacle. It will be worth the ride. I am a theatre kid and it takes a lot to make me gasp. This community wide production of Dramma Sacro Santa Giocandina has done that. This week, I went to a rehearsal and was impressed by the focus and passion this group of players have for the script, rehearsal process and the traditions of their village.
In Pontelandolfo for over one year, a band of community actors, designers, musicians and technicians have been focused on bringing an historic story to life. Their focus and commitment is as powerful as the faith of the play’s heroine, Giocondina. Dramma Sacro Santa Giocandina, the Sacred Drama of Santa Giocondina, has been performed in the Sannio Hills since 1872. Originally, it was produced every seven years, then every four years. It has been seven years since Covid made the four year repetition impossible. Interesting that seven years brings the play full circle to its roots.
The story, of the ultimate sacrifice, is a familiar one. Giocondina, the young daughter of a Roman Senator converts to Christianity. Even though her father and family implore Giocondina, she refuses to abandon her faith. Roman Emperor Diocletian condemns her to be beheaded. Giocondina chooses to save her soul and live on in the kingdom of heaven. Continuing a sacred and socio-community tradition, the role of Giocondina is entrusted to a young woman from Pontelandolfo.
Pontelandolfo Actress Dalila Griffini in rehearsal as Giocondina.
The original script, crafted in 1872 by Ulisse Rinaldi, drew on an ancient tale of unmitigated Christian faith. In 1964, a Priest, Don Nicola D’Addona, revised the original seven act play into four acts. The play that continues to this day is a revision done by Professor Michele Rossi.
Direttore di Palcoscenico, essential the person in charge of all technical aspects, Fiorella De Michele, explained that the presentation of the sacred drama is very important for the Pontelandolfo community. Demonstrating the tradition of the production, the troupe of actors represents the play’s past and present. Many revise roles they have played in the past. Others, new to the show, become part of the future of continuing productions of Dramma Sacro Santa Giocondina.
Actor, Valerio Mancini, my handsome cousin, who has been in a number of independent films told me: “Quella di partecipare è stata una scelta non ponderata, non voluta ma dettata dall’istinto. Da buon Pontelandolfese sento come una responsabilità nei confronti del dramma. Farò di tutto per onorare il mio ruolo. In un mondo in cui regna l’incertezza, ogni piccolo gesto, ogni emozione suscitata, ogni sorriso strappato avrà conseguenze positive nel lungo periodo, in un altro luogo o su altre persone.”
Don’t worry – Valerio translated it for me: “To participate was an unconsidered choice, not wanted but dictated by instinct. As a good Pontelandolfese, I feel a responsibility towards the drama. I will do everything to honor my role. In a world where uncertainty reigns, every small gesture, every emotion aroused, every smile torn will have positive consequences in the long run, in another place or on other people.”
It does take a village to create this work of art, at the helm is Gabriele Palladino. He has been the artistic director of the spectacular a few times. I asked him to tell me about this year.
“The careful study of scenic solutions, delicate theatrical taste, the all-round interaction between the characters and the location, make this year’s drama original and innovative.”
He feels that he is creating an avant-garde theatrical experience, which paints itself with spectacular plays of light and shapes. I will tell you, that based on the rehearsal I saw, the musical mix created by Gennaro Del Nero also became a principal member of the cast. I watched Gabriele bring his arms up and down to cue the sound operator. The music is absolutely cued to the lines of the script.
Gabriele feels that the audience for this production has a more participatory and engaging role. He is an interesting director. I watched him join his actors in the rehearsal space, guiding them with words and movement. He traverses the space and becomes one with his performers. Gabrielle is a director, I wished I could have worked under.
Director Palladino said, “Two magical evenings, where the archaic lemmas of great literature, weight of the script and the glittering guise of the advancing new, will combine the past and the modern. The tradition of past centuries melded with a three thousand-year cultural proposal will manifest in a “fusion” of the drama. An intriguing, desired, sought-after, unforced “fusion”, which is the result of a long and passionate work.”
Artistic Director Gabriele Palladino at Work.
The team of Pontelandofese who may not be on stage but absolutely contribute to the event, include the sound, lights, and off-stage crew who make the magic happen. I applaude everyone involved in this production. You can applaud them too, on July 31 and August 1.
Somedays start off being just another day in Southern Italy and then – BOOM – you discover that a scant hour and half from Pontelandolfo there is an archeological site that is so spectacular it warrants visiting multiple times. Parco Archeologico di Paestum and Velia is located in the province of Salerno. Tickets to enter this massive park are only €12 each. In the winter you can explore the dramatic site for only €6 – which is what it also costs to park for one day. There are reduced rates for families too. If I lived a bit closer I’d buy a season pass for €20 and, just to imagine the stories of those that lived there, go often.
To put the site in perspective, I must use a quote I found in the book, “Guide to the Archaeological Site Paestum From Building Site to Temple.”
It is as if a god had built his house here with huge blocks of stone.
Friedrich Nietzsche
Towards the end of the 7th century BC a group of Greeks (colonists from Sybaris) hopped on a ship, guided of course by the god Poseidon, and decided that the fertile valley of Sele was an incredible place to settle. Settle they did. Guess what they called the new city? During the VII century, Poseidonia was amazing. Majestic temples to ones favorite gods and goddesses were built. Remarkably, they still stand! No one paved this over and put up a parking lot. The temple of Neptune is allegedly one of the best-preserved Greek temples from the 5th-4th century BC. (Am I the only one who gets confused by the BC years running backwards?). There are a good number of incredibly well preserved divine, everyday, and community dwellings at Paestum.
Ladies, imagine, there was a huge bath house and pool for women only. Rumor had it, swimming there increased fertility. I wondered if women started the rumor so they could escape for a day of poolside lounging.
No, I did not stand in the center of the amphitheater and recite lines from Medea. But I did walk around it and marveled once more at the construction of these fabulous structures without the use of modern building equipment.
Besides the acres and acres of “ruins” that don’t look like they are ready to tumble down anytime soon, there is a museum that contains the artifacts found on the site. We spent the day wandering through the forum, temples, and other structures and forgot about visiting the museum. Great excuse to go back.
It is an easy drive from Naples or one can take the train. I think that would be fun to try. There is a stop near the archeological site.
Poseidonia, was conquered by the Lucanians who changed the name to Paiston. Bang, the Romans took control in BC 273 and changed the name to Paestum. The place is magical – no matter what it it is called. Think about adding Paestum to your Italian adventures.
Looking for a summer read? If you already read “Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos” think about reading one of my plays! Visit my website and see the list. Thanks.
That title makes you want to raise your first in the air – Huzzah – right? In my mind’s memory book, I can still see and cheer on the bigger than life puppets that led sixties political rallies. Gorilla theatre took our messages to the streets. In Milan and being anti-tourist site snobs, Jack and I – OK maybe it was me – saw #ArtToThePeople on a poster and I had to find out what was happening. It turned out Art to The People was a fifteen minute walk away in Bicocca, Milan’s old industrial neighborhood.
The Pirelli Hangar Bicocca Foundation, located at Via Chiese, 2 in Milan, is committed to bringing contemporary art to everyone. #ArtToThePeople is their tag line and they have been doing it for close to twenty years. Everyone actually can get to see the art! The museum is free! Free, gratis, costs niente, free. There is no cursory box with a volunteer looking at you to toss in some $$$$. Artists displayed in the 15,000 square meters of exhibition space are both Italian and international. There is a focus on public engagement and a calendar of cultural events, music, talks and films.
As we walked from our hotel, the industrial zone felt very hip and safe. There were young couples and school groups wandering to the museum. I love the fact that Italian students get to see, feel and understand the arts of all the eras that surround them. Larger than life graffiti was the first thing we saw. It reminded me of the street side sculptures that lead patrons to New Jersey’s “Grounds for Sculpture.” That well placed urban “graffiti” let us know our walk was winding down.
At the entrance, still not believing it was totally free, we were greeted and told which building to walk towards. The museum is well staffed with pleasant guard/guides – except for the creep in the cafe who wouldn’t let Jack sit down while I was at the counter getting our orders.
Take a breath Midge, don’t condemn the place because your husband’s back was acting up and some cretin wouldn’t let him sit.
Sigh, why not?
Because it isn’t a fair assessment.
Man, I hate it when my conscience blasts rational thoughts in my ear.
The place is enormous and sadly we didn’t see the permanent exhibition by Anselm Kiefer. The Seven Heavenly Palaces is a site-specific installation that according to the website was “drawn from the palaces described in the ancient Hebrew treatise, the Book of Palaces/Sanctuaries.” The pictures on line are so interesting that the next time we are in Milan, I will go back. Go to the website and look at it. The lesson learned is that when one is given a map of a museum, one should read it and not bumble along.
The exhibits we did see were in huge spaces. The artists were Gian Maria Tosatti and Ann Veronica Janssens. I wandered, I read the brochures and – and – and for me – the work was almost as strange as the room of dirt that was funded by the Dia Foundation in New York. Really, look it up – we paid to smell and see an apartment with rooms filled with dirt. Ooops, Jack just pointed out that it was called the Earth Room. It was a room of dirt. But hey, to each his own. Instead of relying on my tainted appreciation of modern works, let us just move on to the video.
Italy is a wonderful place to explore and it is exciting to find hidden gems like the Pirelli Hangar Bicocca Gallery. I will go back. Enjoy your journey!
Theaters and Teachers Need a play perfect for students and audiences? Want a different kind of holiday show? How about something based on an Italian character?
My weather app tells me it is still raining in Pontelandolfo, but here in Paestum, Cilento the sun is shining and we are cozily ensconced in glamorous lounge chairs facing a luscious garden and silent pool. (More about this place in a separate blog.) A perfect afternoon after the perfect morning. We set off from Pontelandolfo at 8:00 AM with our friends Mariann and Jeff. (Well getting up at 6:00 AM to be packed and out the door by 8:00 AM was not toooo perfect.). Our goal was to drive down hill to the Province of Salerno and visit a magical organic farm, Tenuta Vannulo.
Buffalo milk cappuccino was a great start to our day.
When I think of organic farms yielding great produce, I immediately think of my favorite family farmers Andrea and Tony at New Jersey’s Martenette Farm. I need them to come and check out this place. Tenuta Vannulo is a different type of farm – a much bigger operation. This farm, raising hundreds of water buffalo and lots of produce, is something to behold. For over three generations, beginning in the early 1900s, It has been in the Palmieri family. Even though it is a huge operation, the family is still involved. We spotted the 70 something Senore Palmieri out in the kitchen garden with a hoe. I would encourage all members of Organic Farming Associations who want to experience something that creates yummy products and attracts bus loads of locals and tourists alike to head to Southern Italy.
Tenuta Vannulo is not only an incredibly efficient modern working buffalo farm but also operates a number of buffalo driven shops and a restaurant. Of course there is a caseificio. Locals stop in for the freshest of cheeses – mozzarella, bocconcini, aversana, treccia, scamorza, burro and more – all made with the milk of bufalo indiano. No industrial production here! Everything is hand made with a limited production. The farm’s goal is to make enough to sell just to their local market.
If you are a kid getting off one of the ten buses filled with school groups that we saw, you began whining for the Yogurteria e Cioccolateria the moment you stepped off the bus. Actually, the whines were delightful, in multiple part harmonies and all the kids were sporting the same color cap. I figure it is easier for teachers to track their class if they sport the same color. Yup, these kids didn’t care about the mozzarella they wanted buffalo gelato! The gelato is just the beginning. One can get un caffè, cappuccino, fresh baked products, amazing puddings, candies – I can’t go on. My strictly enforced diet made me miss tasting but not drooling. (Don’t tell my diet buddies but I did have a cappucino made with buffalo milk. I wish I could buy this milk! So creamy, yet light – it has more fat than cow milk.)
The farm has more to look at than fields of produce, water buffalos, and wonderful outdoor spaces, they make and sell designer purses! The designer bags and goods, made on the premises by leather workers are fabulous. I controlled my self and went home without one but I may go back. Imagine saying – “oh this old thing – it’s made of buffalo hide from a wee artigianal shop near Salerno.” 🤣😂
Me thinks I talk too much. My effusive voice driven by what a cool place this is. I will stop typing. Video tells it best –
Now that you’ve seen the majestic creatures, let me tell you what our great guide, Rosaria, told us about the water buffalos. (Midge I thought you were done talking?) Back to the buffalo – they are smart! Three hundred of the milk producers reside in the ginormous stable – unfettered! They only ever take homeopathic medicines. They wake up in the morning to classical music. Buffalos like ritual – they have habits. Once they have chosen their bed – yes a foam mattress – they sleep in the same spot daily. If a buffalo feels the need to be milked, she strolls over to the self milking machine. Each buffalo has a micro chip so the farmers know who has been milked and how much they produced – it averages nine liters a day. Feeling hot a sticky? Mosey over to the shower for a cool down spray. Need a back rub? Head over to the car wash style rubdown machine. Space dirty? The cleaning crew comes by multiple times a day. Mariann laughingly said, ” in my next life I wouldn’t mind coming back as one of these girls.”
This is a cool place to visit. It is a wee bit off the tourist path and even with ten buses of kids I, with no patiences, didn’t feel stamped upon or smacked with a backpack. Hmm, I didn’t see any backpacks – thank the goddesses. The tours are organized so that we didn’t seem to overlap with another one. Each group was relatively small. The place is huge, so it is even possible to find a quiet place to sit and stare. The restaurant is worth the trip and the prices are not tourist outrageous. There were a lot of locals just there for lunch. Midge stop talking, just go back again! Enjoy!
The Sannio Hills are rich with culture. You have often heard me talk about Pontelandolfo’s folkloric dance company, Ri Ualanegli Pontelandolfo. They produce an amazing annual multi-day international folk dance festival – check out some of my older posts. What I haven’t shared with you as often, is how these hills are so “alive with the sound of music.” Occasionally, Jack and I have bumbled upon musical events – look there is a poster for a concert at the Roman Theatre. Oh, it was yesterday. Facebook and Instagram seem to be our province’s village criers. Don’t bother with the daily newspapers – go straight to the digital world. Not wanting to be called a luddite, I friended Orchestra Filarmonica di Benevento on Instagram. Now, we have no excuse not to drag our aging bodies out of comfortable chairs and immerse ourselves in top quality music. Our first adventure kicked off my seventy-fourth birthday! Happy birthday to me – I got to see –
Loved the performances and the venue.
Getting dressed up to sit in fabulous comfortable orchestra seats made me do a happy dance. AND those seats did not cost me the down payment on a Ferrari! Orchestra seats in a jewel box, acoustically perfect theater cost me – wait, wait for it – the incredibly low price of €30 with a €1.80 handling charge! (About $34.) My Arts Admin nose had me looking for who was picking up the tab. Logos on the orchestra’s website made me guess they get underwritten by Ministero Cultura (Italy), Region Campania, Città di Benevento and a few corporations. They didn’t give out programs and the ushers were probably student volunteers – so a bit was saved there. But they did spend a bunch on the production values. More about that later. Benevento’s Teatro Comunale Vittorio Emmanuele is on the grand pedestrian boulevard, Corso Garibaldi. Just strolling down the majestic street and looking at all the high end shops, cafes and museum facades, reminded me how lucky we are to spend so much time in this province. This was our first visit to this theatre. Designed by famous Neapolitan architect, Pasquale Franesconi, the performance space opened in 1862. The interior is rich with all the wedding cake artistic features one expects from that period. Recently updated and refurbished, the theatre even had a handicap bathroom seconds from our orchestra seats. (I mean there was no lock on the door, but I’m not bashful.)
A literal 14 second look at the theater.
When the orchestra, buried below the stage in a real orchestra pit, played the overture, Jack and I looked at each other and grinned. We had seen members of the orchestra dressed in formal funeral attire, carrying interesting instrument cases scurry up the street. The musicians we saw running were young and I thought maybe they might all be students at Benevento’s famous music school, Conservatorio Statale di Musica Nicola Sala di Benevento. When the orchestra was revealed, the focused faces were of all adult generations. Their musical proficiency was evident. They could stand with any symphony we have heard.
Then the curtains opened on a simple yet functional set. The performance space is limited and designer, Luca De Lorenzo, adapted well. His costumes also brought each character to life. The first scene of the Barber of Seville has always felt like a throw away to me, so we didn’t know what to expect. Sadly, we weren’t given programs and I don’t know who were heard sing on May 12th but Figaro was freaking amazing! Not only did he have the musical chops, he was a triple threat. That magical singer, actor, mover combination that rocks the stage. The other triple threat that I kept waiting to enter was Berta, Rosina’s governess/maid (she looked younger than Rosina.) The other performers carried Gioachino Rossini’s score incredibly well too.
I googled the cast list and discovered these singers have performed with opera companies throughout Europe. I am absolutely impressed. Here is the list –
MARCO ALIBRANDO, director SERGIO VITALE, director MAYA MARTINI, assistant director LUCA DE LORENZO, sets and costumes Created by Arte Scenica di Stefano Giaroli LUCIANO BRANNO, Chorus Master
Interpreters of the Opera Studio held by Rosa Feola and Sergio Vitale
FIGARO, Francesco Auriemma – Alfonso Michele Ciulla ROSINA, Federica Foresta – Angela Schisano THE COUNT OF ALMAVIVA, Francesco Tuppo – Eder Sandoval Guevara DON BARTOLO, Gabriel Wernick – Hazar Mursitpinar DON BASILIO, Carlo Feola – Nicola Ciancio BERTA, Carmen Aurora Bocale – Enrica Musto FIORELLO, Luca DeLorenzo
The chorus played a variety of roles in different parts of the theatre. When they marched in through the center aisle, the entire audience grinned like kids on Christmas morning. Bravianche to the Philharmonic Orchestra of Benevento Choir I “Cortesi.”
The Orchestra Filarmonica has an outdoor summer season. The venue, built in the second century by emperor Hadrian, is the Teatro Romano di Benevento. Imagine a town’s important archaeological asset being used for performances! Can’t wait for our next musical treat in the Sannio Hills.
Nonna's Mulberry Tree 