Antimo – Keeper of the Keys to a Family’s History

 Chased by the emotions welling from a simple e-mail subject line – Invio Ricerca Famiglie Rinaldi e Solla (Search for Families Rinaldi & Solla), – tears race down my cheeks.   An incredible gift was soaring over the mystical internet highway.  I took a breath, double clicked and read –

Come eravamo rimasti, finalmente posso inviarti la ricerca delle due Famiglie Rinaldi Mariantonia e Solla, spero che il tutto sia soddisfacente.  (As we left it, finally I’m sending you the documents about the Rinaldi and Solla Familes – I hope this is satisfactory.)

Una caro saluto

Antimo Albini

How could it not be satisfactory?  It was so much more than satisfactory!  Attached were two incredible documents – documents tracing my grandmother’s family back to the 1500’s!

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Little boxes of wonder! Pages of them waiting to be entered in my Family Tree software. Anyone want to help?

Immediately I sent  PDF’s flying through space to my family.  With a little more digging,  my newly found ancestors will share incredible stories.   But I am getting ahead of myself.  Let me start at the beginning –

One beautiful morning Annarita Mancini and I walked up Via Municipo and stopped in front of a small attached stone row house.  This part of the Pontelandolfo dates back to the 1600’s.  Annarita rang the bell.

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The shutter of the second floor window burst open and our guide into the past thrust out his sleepy head. “Beh?” Oops, were we too early?   Annarita explained that we had an appointment to see the church archives.  While he was mulling that over, the beaded curtain in front of the door parted and a middle aged woman peeked out.  Shouts from above moved her.  She ushered us into the front room.  More shouts from above and she ushered us up the stairs.  Annarita and I looked at each other.  Weren’t we supposed to go to the church?  Wasn’t he the dude with the archive room key?  Why are we going up to – well who knows what?  What had my quest for the family’s history gotten us into?  That quest had led us to the true keeper of the keys to knowledge – Antimo Albini!  After a cursory greeting,  Antimo promptly sat down at the computer, lit a cigarette and led me on a four hour journey into my grandmother’s past.

His head of thick grey hair bobbed and weaved as he pulled up database after database.  This passionate historian had decided that the history of Pontelandolfo would be lost if someone didn’t do something.  He decided to be that someone.

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Antimo spent four years of his life meticulously going through all of the church records and putting the information in a Microsoft Access database.  This was an incredible undertaking.  As he digs into my past, the gleam in his eyes  reveals a man filled with passion for both history and the story of Pontelandolfo.   He entered data from books going back to 1607 – separate books for each year of the census.  There were also combined year range books of births, deaths, and baptisms.  That is a heck of a lot of books.  Whoops – he had matrimonial books back to 1505!   He said, ” as the books disappear, their stories will be gone unless people like us who care about our pasts start passing the stories on.”   So get on the stick and start recording your stories!

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Imagine reading thousands of pages like this one.

As he created the databases he noted the book name, page number and entry number.  That way if anyone really wanted to see the fragile old books they could just go to the relevant pages.  He also created separate data bases labeled by book.  Damn, he is good.  The organization will help future historians track data.

We learned that until 1903 the priest of each parish was responsible for doing a census.   The census held the tales of the village.  The priests would visit each house in the parish – why am I wondering if they also got donations for the church at the same time – and ask questions.  They noted the names and ages of people living in the house, if the house was owned or rented, what kind of jobs folks had, nicknames and what ever else caught their fancy.  Those notes are now safely ensconced in Antimo’s database.  In 1903 the state took over the job and started to do a census every ten years.  These sure has hell don’t include the interesting notes the priests wrote down.

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Birth and death registration book from the 1800’s.

Before 1700 there were four parishes serving this mountain town of peasants and landholders – San Felice, San Angelo, San Piedro and San Salvatore.  So priests from all of those parishes kept records of births, baptisms, deaths, weddings.  These are great old journals with meticulous handwriting on paper so old that it crumbles when touched.  We know that because the Comune has it’s own set of unprotected books that are manhandled, falling apart and not digitized!  Che fa!  Thank God Antimo created a database of the much more complete church records.

In 1688, there was a huge terremoto – earthquake – after which the parishes were forced to merge.  Well. not  exactly forced, but San Felice and San Pietro parishes spent a lot of time fighting over who got to be the cemetery.  In those days that meant holding the bones of the departed in the catacombs of the church – you know that space just below the seats for the congregation.  In the throws of the fight neither church got rebuilt.   That narrowed the playing field and  in 1700 there was only the mother church of San Salvatore.  The church where my grandmother was baptized and twice married.  It still stands and we go to mass there often – not because I’m a good catholic but because I can feel her presence there.

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San Salvatore
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The art in San Salvador is awesome.
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These are shots from the 50’s. Later we will have a blog on the parish and you’ll see glorious color.

As I sit in the piazza writing this, my heart fills and tears start to glide down my cheeks.  What is that about?  How could a middle aged, hard assed woman like me get so sentimental about finding my family?  I haven’t a clue but the universe sent me here and as my dad’s first cousin,  Giusippina, says often – sangue è sangue – blood is blood and I am the first of the family to return looking for those that stayed.

Finding one’s family is a backwards process.  Start with the birth and death certificates of today and work backwards.  Since I had already done a lot of research to gather the documents to become an Italian Citizen, I went to see Antimo with the materials he needed to leap even further back in time. (Read the blog about citizenship for more background.)  https://midgeguerrera.wordpress.com/2013/06/21/cittadina-italiana-citizenship/)

Antimo started by finding my grandmother’s birth records.  We had the day, time and name of her parents, Liberantonio Solla and Maria Antonia Rinaldi. (I am dying to know if we are related to the Rinaldi Olio di Oliva folks.)

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Every village in Italy will provide you with your family’s documents. There was a very nominal fee for grandma’s birth certificate.

Then he painstakingly worked backwards, creating a new excel data base for me that included everything he could find.  The little details he unearthed painted a picture of the times and the people.  nicknames were used everywhere.  My great-great grandma Solla had the same name as mia nonna – Maria Rosaria.  It was also the same name as her mother.  Her birth certificate was noted as Maria Rosaria D’Addona.

Antimo said that baptisms were very close in date to birth records.  Many children died soon after birth.  Since everyone wanted the babies to go to heaven, people made sure they got those kids to church and baptized immediately.  Often if a child died, the same name was given to the next child of the same sex.  Boy, does that add another database layer of confusion.

Later we paniced – we couldn’t find  my grandma’s grand-mom, Maria Rosaria D’Addona, in any database.  Oh where oh where could my grande bisnonna be!  We only found the unborn (no birth record) Cesare D”Addona in all the family census databases.  Like she fell from the sky.  The brilliant Antimo scanned even more documents and realized that Cesare was Maria Rosaria’s  nonna’s name.  Since there were two Maria Rosarias in the family they  decided to call  my great great grandma – Cesare.  In 1839, Cesare was only 16 years old when she married the widower Felice Solla from Morcone.  I am guessing he didn’t have much cash because they moved in with her mother on Via San Felice (now Via Municipo –  the same street where Antimo currently lives.) That means I have walked past my great – great grandparents first marital home a million times!

I never would have figured that out.  We were blessed to have Antimo,  a focused detective, helping us by constantly  cross checking information from birth, death, marriage and census records.  OK, we found the lineage of my great grandma.  Now let’s talk about great grandpop.

My great grandfather was Liberantonio Solla – family tales are full of his musical ability.  Zia Caterina also remembered his ability to drink the night away and fall down the mountain on the way home to Via Porta Nuova.  On my second visit to Pontelandolfo,  we found my great granddad’s house . The rocks of this small medieval stone cottage – now in  ruins  –  held secrets that we will never know.  Or will we?

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Only a few stone walls are left of the house that my young grandmother, grandfather and aunt and uncles shared with grandma’s parents.

What we didn’t know was that Liberantonio wasn’t called Liberantoino by anyone but his mama.  Pitocchio (flea in dialect) was his nickname.  As he played the concertina, villagers shouted Pitocchio .  I’m not quite sure of the name my bisnonna, Maria Antonia Rinaldi,  shouted when he came home dead drunk, having spent all he made singing at the bar.

Oh, I just remembered,  great grandma Maria Antonia Rinaldi  was born in a rented house.  Liberantonio Solla was born on Via San Felice – in the home of his grandma!  How the hell did we discover all this in less than ten hours?  My great grandfather was a “bracciante” – an ancient term for working the land for someone else and getting a piece of what you grew for yourself – yeah serf.  I come from a long line of indentured servants.  Weeoo.  My great-great uncle Nicola Solla (Liberantonio’s bro) worked for the commune.  We discovered that for generations a Nicola Solla worked for the commune.  I can’t wait to find out if one works for the town today.

So much to discover.  So many stories to hear, feel and relive.  So little time to do it all.

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you  Antimo Albini for keeping the keys to family history at our fingertips.

 

Chasing Windmills

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Whirling dervishes dance madly in the noon day sun as the wind whips

over the mountains of Campania.

One morning, on our way to the  Naples airport , I screeched at Jack to pull over.  He raised an eyebrow and kept on driving.  Rats, how would I really get a glimpse of the thousands of windmills that peppered the mountain ridge if he didn’t pull over?  That was the first time I spied the windmills that are part of the onshore wind farms that earned Italy its 2012 standing as the world’s sixth largest producer of wind power. I have no idea how wind power works but the science guys at http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/green-science/wind-power.htm will absolutely explain it all.

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Sentries posted on the tops of mountains

Sannino soldiers gaze down on the approaching Romans.

Tall, helmets pointed to the heavens – bodies still against the azure sky.

When I first saw them, I wasn’t thinking – “Gee, how green and save – the – planet this is.”  I was thinking, “Hear the sounds of the marching feet as the Roman army emerges over the crest of the hill.”  Seriously, from a distance they look like advancing ramrod straight soldiers with pointed hats.  Up close they are more like super giant stick figures.  Up close?  H’mm did she really drive up the mountain to get closer?  Yes, by gum we did!   Why?  Because we could!  So why not.  OK, if the truth be told, it was a chilly, dreary day and I was going to poke out my eyes with a pen if we didn’t get in the car and do something.  Anything – as long as it didn’t cost a bundle of bucks and we didn’t have to change out of comfy clothes.  Anything – never give me that option.  My brain tumbles and rumbles and soon bizarre suggestions spew forth like Vesuvius.  Anything meant – chasing windmills.  Jack, knowing divorce was eminent if he didn’t get behind the wheel of the car, started the engine and let me navigate.  Navigation was something like – “NO, NO – TURN RIGHT” – when ever I saw the top of a windmill.  We were so intent on getting close to the windmills that I didn’t even shriek at the switchbacks along the way.  What we didn’t do was record exactly how to get to the ridge.  All I remember was from Colle Sannita take SS 212 and make a right on SP 55.  I was too entranced to take notes but said into my video at least 10 times – we were on SP55!

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http://www.thewindpower.net/zones_en_7_campania.php keeps a database of wind farms and their operators.  You tech folks might find this interesting.  I don’t know how often they update it.  I swear I counted more windmills than are noted.  Some may have been the third or fourth phases of a farm and not yet included.

According to http://www.ieawind.org/countries/italy.html, Installation of new wind farms in Italy continued its pace in 2011. Total online grid-connected wind capacity reached 6,878 MW at the end of the year, with an increase of 1,080 MW from 2010. As usual, the largest development took place in the southern regions, particularly in Apulia, Calabria, Campania, Sardinia, and Sicily. In 2011, 590 new wind turbines were deployed in Italy and their average capacity was 1,831 kW. The total number of online wind turbines thus became 5,446, with an overall average capacity of 1,263 kW. All plants are based on land, mostly on hill or mountain sites. The 2011 production from wind farms could provisionally be put at about 10.1 TWh, which would be about 3% of total electricity demand of the Italian system.

Electricity is expensive here so I was hoping the wind farms were producing a lot more than 3%.  Well, this data is from 2011 and we know that Italy in 2012 was the 6th largest producer of wind power.

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Hay fields surround the windmills.

 What is interesting is that the farmers are still working the land around the windmills.  As we wended our way around we passed beautiful new combines, tractors and balers .  I am guessing that the income from the utility companies helps keep this area green and farmed.  Windmills plus farm land sure beats the housing developments plus loss of farm land that are a blight on New Jersey.

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Grey day washed away by the buzz of chasing windmills.

I learned something this grey day – chasing windmills is a guaranteed cure for boredom.  Listen to the sound of the wind whistling on the ridge!

Back to School! Learning and Teaching

I know you are staring at me. I’m the new kid.  Everyone stares and whispers about the new kid.  Even though I am a glorious member of the sixth decade club, whenever I am in a new place with new people  I want to scrunch down and get super friendly in the corner behind Mr. Ficus.   “But Midge,” pals say.  “You will talk to anyone.” Yeah, but  first I have to take a deep breath, say, wherever I am God is and all is well, and then give myself an actor’s objective.  Damn, getting up the courage to talk takes a lot of stressful work.  Work!  That always works for me in a strange new situation – work.  Around strangers I have to have a job – back to the actors objective – give me the antipasti to pass around and I can chat up a storm.

Lightning bolts of panic zapped around my brain.  Strangers in a new town, new country, faced with tons of new people to meet and they speak a different language. How will I meet them?  How will I ward off boredom? I need a job!

Before we got to Pontelandolfo, I asked our very own School Board Member (consigliere), Rosella Mancini about volunteering as “madre lingue” in the elementary school.

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The bus travels up the mountain collecting kids. Parents PAY if they want the bus to stop.

Starting in “scuola materna” – pre school – English is taught in the public schools.  At the lower levels, it is the classroom teachers responsibility.  I thought this act of kindness/selfishness would give me something exciting to do and I’d meet a bunch of great kids.  They were truly great kids – they stand when ever a teacher enters the room and say Buon Giorno. NO ONE is staring at their phone!

Here’s a quick overview of the educational system – don’t worry I’ll toss in some pictures.

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Not the prettiest of buildings. Very 1950’s utilitarian.
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I wandered and found this on a back alley door. Yes, I reported it.
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Happier note – they get music and art in every grade. This is a piano keyboard class. Besides English they were studying French too.

All children must stay in school until they are 16 -“Scuola del obligo”.  Gossip from the teachers is that school directors don’t accept kids failing.  If a teacher fails a child, it is the teacher who is the failure.  Whoa – where does that put the responsibility?  How many kids just “pass”?  I gotta say I taught a good number of college students that graduated from high school and couldn’t write a sentence.  Guess some practices are world wide.

TA TA da dum – standardized tests are given by the Italian government during a students third level of la scuola media (students ages 11 to 14).  Tests – another global initiative.

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The primary school was condemned and now those students have a wing in la scuola media.

Those attending una scuola dell’infanzia/materna, ages 3 to 5, and  una scuola primaria/elementare, ages 6-10 get to wear  un grembiulino.  The smocks are adorable.

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Clean, cute and practical. Ours were blue.

The “primaria/elementare” and “media” scuole classes I visited had classes of about 15 students – I am told that is the norm.

i went to the end of year show – music, poetry, history – performed on a very small stage that had incredible art around the proscenium.  That great art was covered by pictures the teachers made of fruits and vegetables – REALLY.

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NOOOOO! Art Alert! Art Alert!
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Staples. They used staples.

Not all things are simply fabulous in Italy – the show was to start at 6:30 – it didn’t.  Parents started lining up to go in at 6:00.  The teachers didn’t open the bloody doors until almost 7:00 and people pushed in to get the limited seats.  They need me to produce their end of year shows.

This performance was also the send off for the students going on to una scuola superiore – 5 year high school.    These 14 year olds must pick a career so that they can pick what secondary school to go to.  Cripes, at 14 I wanted to be something different every day – doctor, lawyer, nun, actor, cabaret star….   (Good link to understand the system – http://www.rome-explorer.com/rome-guide/italian_secondary_school.html)

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Secondary School for Public Administration! Do we have one of those? I think not.
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Secondary School located in Pontelandolfo – Art and Design of Gold Jewelry! Sadly, since there is not easy public transportation and enrollment is low the school will be closing.

OK, back to me teaching.  To arrange the volunteer commitment,  Rossella and I met with the director of the district.  I took one look at the head of the schools and could barely remember my memorized bio in Italian.  Thank the stars for Rossella who did the commercial for me.  My mind went blank.  I was stifling huge guffaws – because this woman who deals with tween age boys all day had a blouse on that was cut so low her girls must have been freezing.  Geeese Louise – dress for the job.

Worse than not being able to speak was not being able to listen – though Jack says I am a chronic non-listener.  I thought she said, “ how do you like Casalduni?”   I said something like, yes, I like Casalduni (neighboring village).  What she had said was, ” would I mind teaching there too! ” Not being totally fluent got me into tight binds often.  Somehow we managed to ignore that request and just focus on the children in my home town.

Day one approached.  I had looked through all of English text books for the entire spectrum of grades – from ages 5 – 14.  Gulp, they should know more English grammar than I was ever taught.  The sweat was dripping off my brow as I created lesson plans for every grade – did I say every grade.  Yes, I taught in every single classroom in the co-mingled primary and middle school.  A little voice said – “teach what you know.” Kids and creative dramatics are perfect together.  Whew, I should have thought of that sooner.  Not bragging here – but since the classrooms are very traditionally taught and I ain’t traditional – the kids loved my classes.  I started every class with one of the many name games I can pull out of that theatre trunk in my head.  Of course to introduce myself, I did something silly  and wondered about the gasps on my last name – Guerrera – until I heard all of their last names and heard a bunch of them say – Guerrera.  Yikes, more branches on the mulberry tree to explore.

Enough reading – time to go to the video.

Napoli è una bella città – BUT DON’T DRIVE THERE!

Watch out!  Sheeeeeeeet, the motorini is aiming for us.  I clutch the armrest.  My heart races.  Jack scowls and bellows, “stop screeching.”

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Photo From Guardian UK

Ahhhhh, thank you for listening.  I have discharged my angst.  I inhale deeply, and count to ten.  H,mmmmmmm.  I visualize white light surrounding the car.   WATCH OUT!!!!!!   I immediately stop all this relaxation, funky granola, bull poop and bellow, “DON’T EVER TAKE A FREAKIN’ CAR INTO THE CENTER OF NAPLES!”

Here’s the story.  It was a beautiful day and we thought we could explore Naples.  Our fabulous landlord had taken us a few weeks earlier. He drove us directly into the glorious historic center.  He was incredibly familiar with the city and assured us the historic center was clean, safe and wonderful.  It was!  The architecture and history are worth a visit. With Nichola we strolled down to the waterfront, had a caffè in a small bar and people watched.

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Post card pretty.

We thought we could do it on our own.  (Notice the “we thought”.)   We were accompanied by Giusy who attends Università DI Napoli “Federico II”.   The plan was to take the train from Benevento.  The down side of idyllic, very small village life is that there is really no public transportation.  At 7:00 or 7:40 AM students and those lucky enough to have jobs can take the bus to Benevento.  At 8:30 AM there is a bus to Campobasso.  We didn’t know until a few days later you can take it all the way to Naples but it is a really long – stop everywhere – ride.  Where was I?  Oh yeah, the plan was to take the train from Benevento.  Great plan – 20 minute ride to the station – 30 minutes trying to figure out where to park – and then finding a parking lot only to discover that the prepay machine only took coins!  Sounds like New Jersey transit – we’ve got the trains just nowhere to leave your car. Shouting and cursing ensued – that was me.  Jack did the scowl sigh thing.  Giusy said, “maybe we should just drive.”  Well she lives there how bad could it be?

I need to point out that the last time Jack drove to Naples – about 5 years ago – we were going to the Capodimonte Museum and National Galleries and got stuck in a horn blowing, knives flashing, traffic jam at a 1/2 mile wide round-about (circle).  We were forced to crawl around the circle for about 45 minutes.  We had only gone about half-way around the huge thing when Jack was able to ease off into a wide avenue.  In less than one block, the wide two way street had bottlenecked into a goat path.  People had double parked  or abandoned their cars on both sides of the street.  It was an impassable, drivers screaming and horns blaring NIGHTMARE.  Jack Mr. Calm in a crisis pulled the car onto the sidewalk and told us to get out.  When in Rome or Naples do as ….   We abandoned  the car,  took a cab to the museum and worried abut driving later.  So, here we are driving in Naples again.  Are we insane?  Don’t answer that.

This time we had our handy iPhones and could use the GPS.  We knew we wanted to explore a  neighborhood and picked the bayside “Posillipo”.  Getting in was a dream.  We took the autostrada to the city and then followed the water all the way to Posillipo.  Parking in a lot was easy – though again you could only use change.  Since we figured we only needed three hours to stroll, eat lunch and stare at the sea, we scrounged enough coins.  The view from Posillipo is amazing.  We all agreed this was the neighborhood to live in.

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Blue skies, beautiful buildings – perfect!

Gated private streets led to magnificent houses and apartment buildings.  Sigh, anybody want to give me a scant million?

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Want to buy me this house in Posillipo?
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We first saw these “lovers locks” in Paris a few decades ago. Young love….
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Now this is a roof top terrace!

Strolling through the neighborhood we discovered a restaurant with an incredible view.  Reginella Restaurant was the type that brochures touting the charms of a seaside community are sure to mention.  It was perched on the side of the cliff leading down to the Bay of Naples.

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Magical view! Note the very thin wrought iron railings – easy to see the sea.

We sat on a terrace overlooking the sea.  Initially, the charming host sat us right next to the railing – ah a glorious view!  Giusy and I looked at each other – we were both turning green.  All I saw was my life passing before my eyes as I fell off the side of the cliff and lay broken on the rocks below.  With chattering teeth we asked for another table.

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Ahh – happy new people sitting in our still warm railing side seats.
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I stopped hyperventilating enough to take a cute photo.

Once we were happily seated a bit further back, we concentrated on the incredible seafood.  I’ll let you see the food and judge for your selves.  (Pssst – My “risotto alla pescatore” was chock full of clams, mussels, scallops and pieces of calamari.)

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Octopus tossed with lemon on a bed of arugula.
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Need protein? Buffalo mozzarella hidden under prosciutto.
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I took the mussels and clams out of their shells and then remembered to take a picture. Hey, It smelled like I should dig right in.

Delicious!  Seafood by the sea .  Those of you  waiting for the other DON’T DRIVE shoe to drop.  Hang on – here it comes.

After lunch we strolled a bit and took  in the sites of the neighborhood.  Most shops were closed. Even stores in the cities close for lunch and a break, opening again at about 4:30.  Sated from lunch and the fabulous view we decided to head for the historic center  and check out where Giusy attended university and lived.

Whaaaaaaa.  Whaaaaaa. Nervous breakdown alert.  If you do not have a strong stomach for street chaos stop reading.

We set the GPS for the address of the apartment, followed the bay and suddenly were told to turn left into Dante’s third level of HELL.  Thousands of Evil Kenivals zoomed in and out of stop and go traffic on motorcycles, motorini and broom sticks. Cars double and tripped parked making streets impassable.  The GPS didn’t quite get street closings  due to well who knows – it was Tuesday.  Where the hell was my Xanax?  Clutching the purse on my lap like a life jacket, I tried not to cry out every time a freakin’ car or motorini cut us or or came careening toward us.  My nails bit into my palms.  Jack squared his waspy jaw and forged ahead.  Forging ahead isn’t the right phrase.  Begging for life – that’s a good phrase.  Or crying for my mother – that’s a good phrase.  It is like driving a car in a full washing machine set to the spin cycle.  Bump, rrrrrrrrrrrrt, squeak, ugggggggg — HELL.

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Giusy reminded us she always took the bus and walked and didn’t really know the direct route to her apartment.  Gee, thanks for the relevant information!  We saw the sign for a parking lot and whipped the car in.  Relief.  On foot, we enjoyed exploring the university.

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Who could study in this place. I’d be staring at the architecture.

Next, it was on to discover how college kids live.  We checked out Giusy’s apartment – palace sized rooms stuffed with kids. Sound familiar?  Well, in the U.S. we really don’t usually find apartments with 14 foot ceilings, beautiful ironwork elevators and five bedrooms, two baths for 350 euros per each of the five roommates.  Granted, clothes were still tossed around and the furniture was all cast off – but still it felt like a palace.

Time to go – so we trudged to the parking lot – where being 8 minutes late – they charged us for an extra hour.  Giusy argued like a trooper and oh yeah  – she won!  They didn’t charge us.  We gritted our teeth for the drive home.  I couldn’t watch as Jack tried to squeeze out of the garage to the street.  We hadn’t a clue how to get out of town and the GPS in our iPhone was obviously under a lot of stress.  We ended up by the docks – well that was fun.  Not TOO many cars jockeying for position there.  We sat inhaling exhaust for what felt like hours – Jack says it was only 30 minutes.  The conversation in the car came to a dead halt.  Since I was’t allowed to make caustic comments or scream, it was very quiet.  Somehow Jack got us out of the city and on to the highway.  We all exhaled and enjoyed the mountains, farms and lush green that is the Italian country side.

Naples is a glorious city.  TAKE THE BUS!

PS:  Jack says it wasn’t so bad.  We got home didn’t we!!!

Lufthansa – The Comfortable Way to Napoli

This is for my New Jersey Pals – Alitalia doesn’t fly directly to Italy from Newark Liberty Airport.  Remember, I told you the  owner of Il Re restaurant, who is from NJ, said that the easiest way for  his family to get to Naples was on Lufthansa airlines?  (https://midgeguerrera.wordpress.com/2013/05/20/il-re-ghiotto-yummy-surprise-in-rotondi-av/)   You have to change planes somewhere to get to Naples, why not Germany and avoid the hassle of driving across the river to JFK.  He seemed like a smart and nice guy so I thought we would give Lufthansa a try.

Auntie Midge and Uncle Jack needed to get to London for Alexandra Rose’s graduation from the London Academy of Music and Dramatic Arts.  We could have flown from Naples to Milan or Rome and then transferred on to London but thought – hey, let’s use Star Alliance miles and test out Lufthansa.  We’re hooked!  Even in steerage the plane was comfortable.  My butt, like a beautiful redwood tree has gotten broader with age. When I delicately cram it into the normal economy class seat I am pinched, prodded and damn – it ain’t pleasant.  These seats were wide and there was ample leg room for Jack.  Who knew that some airlines actually give a shit about the comfort of their passengers?  Flying to London the vegetarian sandwich snack was on great multi grain dark bread.  Returning we were served tasty little sausages.  The hostesses were multi lingual and gracious.  Plus the beer….

However, it was the airport in Munich that initially really sold me.  Great signage in German and English, as well as, helpful folks who were not pouting.  After we got off the plane in the Lufthansa hub, we were greeted with free coffee and cold drink stations.  The floor plan of the airport was open and we didn’t  feel like herded sheep.  The electronic walks zoomed us along.  At one point, I couldn’t believe what I was seeing – a Work, Sleep, Rest zone!

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Sleep – Work or Rest!

I started walking backwards to keep the Work, Sleep, Rest station in sight.  Jack put his carry-on in my back and encouraged me forward.   I got off the bloody people mover and raced back to check this out.

1. There were individual desks or a communal counter for work.

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Got a few minutes between flights? just lie back and relaxxxxxzzzzzz….

2. There were these really slick reclining chairs to read, nap or contemplate life on.

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“Million mile club”? Midge, clean up that mind.

3. There were private sleeping rooms!  There was a fee for those and a cute couple was sizing one up.

Winston and Camel smoking rooms!  How continental. Cough cough. Honk honk,ugh hack.  These lovely glass enclosed comfort zones for the nicotine addict were conveniently placed around the airport.

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Hmmmm, an airy room crowed with hackers.

Each had signage that dully noted ” cigarette smoking is hazardous to your health or smoking cigarettes will kill you.”  The young professionals who packed the places couldn’t read or didn’t care.

I gotta say, almost all the college graduates in Pontelandolfo smoke.  The old men playing cards smoke.  The kids in high school smoke.  Che fa?  Bo!

We got to our clearly marked gate and found comfy seats at the gate.  They were leather covered cushioned seats with ample room for a well endowed derrière and a gap between seats.

The rave review now turns to shit.  Our flight to London included the British swim team, a British senior tour group and just us regular gotta get to London folks. I knew something was amiss when a young mom asked about what to do with her stroller and the Lufthansa employee  said ,”well they will stow it below but there are some steps you know.  In a moment you and the baby may go first.”  Time for general boarding was announced and we moved out the door to be faced with “some steps you know” – that translated to a million cazillianan  steps down.  I counted eight freakin’ flights when I was out of breath and couldn’t count anymore. The swim team took them with youthful vigor – as did the senior group. Those women must have been on a mountain hiking tour.  I refused to whine and crept down, down, down the stairs only to face a bus to the plane that this short Italian needed a ladder to enter.  Ally oop, I climbed up.  Shit, we got to the plane and I had to jump off. Ouch.  Now lets climb up that flight to enter the cabin.

“Stop whining – or was that bitching,” said Jack.  The plane was again comfortable, the staff delightful and oh yeah we left on time.

The flight back was seamless.  We were joined in London by a very large group of Italian  high school kids.  The plane from London to Munich was jam packed. Normally, all announcements are done in the language of the airline and sometimes the language of the country they are departing from – even Lufthansa on our flights over made announcements only in German and English.  This flight, the Lufthansa stewards did something I have never heard before – they gave the usual welcome, safety and other speeches in not just German, not just the added English but also in Italian!  The Italian students cheered and clapped.  What fun and what courtesy to recognize that half of a plane from London to Munich was full of Italians.

I dreaded the thought of that bloody bus.  We came down the exterior steps from the plane and the first thing I saw was a five year old on his hands and knees climbing on the bus.  Jack gently shoved me to the front of the bus where the  step met the ground.  This was the handicapped, short people entrance and exit of the bus.  So I really didn’t have to fear for my life jumping off the bus and that little kid didn’t have to crawl on.  LUFTHANSA – add some bloody signs to the bus so that people know you have thought about short people!

We have decided that Lufthansa from Newark will be our preferred method of getting back home to Pontelandolfo. Danke!  Grazie!

Land Line Phone? NO! VOIP? YES!

Land line phones? Are they going the way of the dinosaur?  My brilliant computer consultant Cyndi turned us on to Magic Jack.  We have dumped our Comcast Cable Triple Play Plan at home and just use the VOIP Magic Jack gizmo.  VOIP stands for  Voice Over Internet Protocol, a technology for making telephone calls over the Internet in which speech sounds are converted into binary blah, blah, blah techno jargon blah blah…  Bottom line –  you need access to the internet to make a phone call.

For the initial investment of $69 for the Magic Jack gizmo that plugs into either a router or a computer.  You get a U.S.A. number that goes with you anywhere in the world.  8393889864abe39f4c5972Now that is pretty groovy but I wanted our existing number.  If I finally sold a play or if something tragic happened at home like tidal waves from the Raritan River, how would people find me?  Don’t worry, for about $10 you can “port” your existing number to Magic Jack.  That is exactly what we did. For $79 for the initial year we now have unlimited calling in the USA and Canada and unlimited international calling to the USA.

We were just a tad apprehensive.  I am a “show me” kind of chick.  We set up the gizmo at home – dumped Comcast phone service – it worked great.  The voice quality was fine and as long as we had high speed internet we would have a phone, voicemail, e-mail alerts of voicemail, caller ID, free directory assistance, call waiting and FREE international calling to the USA.

To have a Comcast bill that made sense we dumped cable TV too – that was a wee bit more challenging.  The Triple Play Plan – means you use them for the phone, cable television and high speed internet.  Since our plan is not to be home much, having the flexibility of carrying our phone number with us is wonderful.  The internet is everywhere and so is connectivity.

Before we left for Italy we tried the Magic Jack with my laptop and Jack’s.  It worked fine.  We just had to buy a traditional phone with a cord that could be jacked into the Magic Jack.  I bought a $9.99 model at Radio Shack.  We plugged it in and tested it at home.  It worked great.  Jack packed it in his suitcase and off to Europe we went.

The initial dilemma was the lack of internet service at the house we rented. Ooops. Magic Jack is a VOIP – need that internet.  Wait – there is an iPhone App for Magic Jack!   I set it up on my phone, logged into Magic Jack and boom had free international calling over my 3G data network. (Remember, the earlier blog – we only pay $13 a month for unlimited data with WIND.)  We did the same thing to Jack’s phone.  My phone carries the number that came with the Magic Jack and Jack’s phone is our old home phone number – hmm, we really need to switch that.

Meanwhile back at the Wi-Fi quest, it took us about a week and a half to get internet installed and the router working.  A sigh of relief.  We could set up the real phone and now hear that pleasant ring when folks in the USA call us.  We put an Italian adapter at the end of the plug, plugged the phone into electricity and into the Magic Jack.  Hey, what’s that smell?  Burning plastic – the $9.99 phone was fried by the Italian current.  Don’t ask me why, just don’t bring one.

We ran out and bought a cheapy Italian phone.  Now the cheapy Radio Shack phone was small, white, plastic and ugly.  Check out the form and function cheapy Italian phone.

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Cute!

Note the lines!  Feel the beauty!  It cost $9.99 and is cute and didn’t melt.  Yeah.  We have a phone.  It works – sometimes.

In all fairness, the sound quality has a lot to do with the internet connection.  At our house in Italy we have an antennae on the roof that brings us Wi-Fi from the Wi-Fi gods of the mountain.  I have no idea how it works.  When it is windy – which in the mountains is often – the antennae is doing dirty dancing and the reception is less than great.

There are other VOIP opportunities out there but they seem to cost more.  So, even though we can’t hear you when the wind blows over the mountain, we are still happy with our Magic Jack.

For the complete commercial: http://www.magicjack.com

La Casa del Mio Bisnonno – Salvatore Guerrera

You know how little girls imagine themselves princesses twirling at the ball?  Well, I tried to imagine that but after tripping over a hoe somehow knew that my family sure as hell wasn’t royalty.  It felt really special to be about 6 years old and discover I was from a long line of serfs!   Hey, quit smirking – a lot of us first generation folks come from families who – well – didn’t have the proverbial ‘Pot’.  Salvatore Guerrera, the patriarch of my family, was a contadino, farmer.  Now, don’t think of the agri-businessman of today or even the great local organic farmer.  In the Pontelandolfo church and commune records my family members are all listed as “contadino and/or bracciante”  They were  peasant farmers who  “gave their arms work”  for another person.  Serfs – now that is a word we all know.  Or sharecroppers – these men and women worked the land for a piece of the garden pie  – a very small piece.

Over a period of 18 years, I have shared many a  long and wonderful Pontelandolfesi meal with my extended Italian family.  When the coffee was served, I often steered the conversation to stories about my bisnonno.  The elders, his grandchildren, vaguely remembered him but really remembered the stories about him that their parents told.  What was he like?  Where did he live?  What did he do?  These alert and fun filled men and women regaled me with tales – all in the dialect of the town.  I didn’t have a clue as to what they said.  They knew I didn’t have a clue, but kept right on talking. Today, having taken years of Italian, I still only understand about 20% of what anyone says in dialect.  Not to lose the stories, I shot lots of video tape.  Much of it still needs to be translated.  The ever gracious linguist, Annarita Mancini, helped by giving me some short summaries.

The central theme was that my incredibly well built bisnonno was a Robin Hood kind of guy.  If the landowners weren’t sharing, he would not so subtly help the process along.  One tale, set after  World War I, told of great deprivation – everything of any value was used for the war or stolen by the enemy.  There wasn’t a bit of food to eat or even wood to burn for heat.  Salvatore Guerrera approached the landowner  and asked if he could cut down a really  big tree  – one of the last trees.  The man said, absolutely not, I’m saving that tree for myself.  Salvatore looked at this incredibly  tall tree and thought 50% is good enough for that uncaring @#$%$#.  “Noi braccianti  have provided him with much much more.”  He then climbed up to the middle of the tree and began to saw.  Soon the top of the tree tumbled to the ground, was chopped up and shared.  No one remembers what the landowner did – but they kept remarking that their nonno was really big and really strong.  Hmmmmm.

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Three walls are left of my great grandfather’s house.

We were led to what is left of Salvatore Guerrera’s house by his grandchildren.  I could write about it but, frankly, am enjoying editing video.  What follows was shot in August 1995 – the first time I saw the house with my Zia Caterina – and June 2002 when we brought my father there.

When in Rome – Eat as the… The Sushi Quest

Drat that avid blog reader, Kathy Hall!  She asked me the living abroad question of all questions.  How do avowed foodies living in a country with such a great cooking tradition  satisfy their palate’s need  for diversity. Didn’t I miss Jamaican food, Thai food, French Food, Mexican Food, Ethiopian Food, SUSHI!!

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Images of sushi flutter through my mind.

Damn, now all I think about is Sakura Sushi in Hillsborough NJ – home of the best Sushi in the tri-state area – I know it’s the best because I sample sushi everywhere.  Time to be proactive and stop just dreaming about Rainbow Caviar Roll, yellowtail pieces, raw fresh scallops, spicy tuna…  I googled Sushi in Campania.  Whoa – there are a bunch of sushi joints in Naples.  Rats – driving in and out of Naples is a harrowing experience.  What to do – oh, down on the bottom of the list was a place called Sosushi in Avellino.  I googled it –  a franchise with 30 restaurants through out Italy.  Mc Donald’s of sushi?  H’mmm – stop procrastinating.  Avellino  – we have never been to Avellino and it’s only about 45 minutes away.  Let’s go!  And with that the Sushi Quest began.