Circo Acquatico comes to Pontelandolfo

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The CIRCUS is COMING!
TA TA TA DAAAA TA DAAAA

Remember those one ring circuses that scurried into small home towns across America?  The one elephant, two-horse shows that still bedazzled us with its newness.  The traveling small tent show may have died in America but thanks to families like the Frimers it is alive and well in Italy.

My interest and excitement was piqued when the signs appeared on the main intersections of Pontelandolfo.  Signs that showed a scantily clad damsel fighting off the sharpened teeth of a great piranha – or was it a catfish?

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That must be one huge fish tank.

“In less than a week,” the signs taunted, the incredible Frimer Acquatic Show would be setting up shop in Ex Campo Calcetto.  Not wanting to forget the where and when, I snapped a photo of the signs.

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Are there different names on each poster?

Friday, from deep within the kitchen of our all stone house I heard a voice so loud I dropped the tomatoes. I raced out side.  Speakers topping an old blue van – the new circus parade – were encouraging us all to experience the wonders of the circus tomorrow.  OK, I didn’t understand a word of what they said, but I bet they were touting the wonders of the circus.  Finally, it was Saturday – the day the circus was setting up its tent.  After stopping at my favorite salumeria for the best mortadella in the world, I found the most incredible gift under my windshield wiper.  Two discount coupons for that night’s performance!  It was fate.  Jack and I could see the world’s greatest Frimer Acquatic Show for only 7 euro each!.  I could barely contain myself.  The performance was at 9:15 PM.   It was 4:00 PM.  How could I wait five hours????

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Only 7 euro – about $9 for live entertainment.

We got into the village at 8:30 – I wanted a good seat and went to the Campo di Calcio – no tents?  Cripes, did I read it wrong? Where is the circus?  We walked back to a local bar and noticed people heading towards the piazza behind the the village center – the what I thought was a parking lot that holds the recycling bins.  We started to follow them – I heard music – circus music!  We were getting closer.  Like Conestoga wagons of the wild west, blue tractor-trailer sized trucks had encircled the piazza.  A line had formed in front of the ticket counter – people were clutching the same coupons I had.  The ticket booth was in a truck and about 6 feet off the ground.  Folks were standing on tippy toe to hand  their coupons and money to the overly made up but pretty young ticket taker girl.  She suddenly stopped taking money.  No!  Were they sold out?  No, she was out of change and no one had any.  We waited about 5 minutes for a navy blue suited burly roustabout to appear with some change that he pirated from the closest bar.  Whew, we were getting closer.  I paid and then we looked for the entrance.  The tent!  I see the tent!  Jack pointed out that the tent we used for picnics was only slightly smaller.  I scoffed at him – this is the world’s greatest circo acquatico.  When we enter the space I am sure the grandeur of the circus will unravel itself before us.  The burly blond ticket taker ripped our tickets and we walked down the path to the tent.  It was small!  I counted about 100 K-Mart style old white plastic chairs set up in 3/4 round – for you non theatre folks that means that the performance space had chairs on three sides of it.  The performance space was pretty small but look there is a large yellow curtain behind it.

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Could the piranha be behind the curtain?

I bet that lifts up and we see the tanks of water.  People slowly filed in.  The first night audience was small – about forty of us.  Jack and I were probably the oldest, but we have young hearts!  There were two men in their fifties or 60’s at the light and sound boards.  They looked vaguely familiar – like the dads of the ticket seller and burly blonde ticket taker guy.  The music changed, the lights dimmed and the ringmaster appeared.  He welcomed us all and a clown  – who kind of looked like the ticket taker and light board guy – came out and started an old vaudeville shtick – it doesn’t matter which one.  Just know you have seen the Marx Brothers do it – it involves kicks in the butt.  All laughed and the music changed to great entrance rumblings.

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Rings and things fly in the air.

Suddenly, dressed all in black and juggling madly, a handsome young man appeared.  Wait, he looks familiar – it was the ringmaster!  He juggled clubs, balls, tennis rackets, rings – the usual and when he dropped them all applauded and laughed.  He raced off to the applause of tiny hands.

The clown skirted in with a baby carriage – the baby cried – he picked up the baby.  He showed us the baby.  The baby squirted water on all of us – including my new white pocket-book.  Well it was Il Circo Acquatico.  H’mm he kind of looks like the ringmaster/juggler guy too.

Next a chef appeared with a stack of plates – wait he looks familiar.  Ahh, the burly blonde guy who took the tickets.  Plates, rods, balance – you’ve seen that schtick before too.  Nary a plate broke, all were spinning madly and the audience cheered.

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Burly ticket taker guy is also the balancing plate guy.

A platform was wheeled out and a sexy lady with the usual boobs on a plate outfit appeared.  She bent into a back bend and walked up the platform steps on her hands.  Wait – she looks familiar?  Ahhh the girl in full make-up who sold the tickets!  She was a modified contortionist – think yoga and gymnastics with a little double jointed tossed in for good measure.  It hit me.  Everyone looks alike!  They must be a traveling circus family.

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Sexy ticket taker and contortionist gal.

What could top a contortionist!  The bored five year old member of this talented circus family  that’s what.  She came out with silver hula hoops and whirled them on her waist, feet and arms.  Since she couldn’t be seen above the ring wall, we all stood to watch this tiny tot perform.  I figure she is probably on the payroll for tax purposes and needs to do something entertaining.  Or the family insists that all earn their keep.

Soon the juggler/ringmaster was back dressed as a magician assisted by ticket taker/contortionist lady.  How did she escape from that sack after being locked in a black box?  How did he get from the audience into the sack?  Whoa!  Cheers went up.

Damn, more water from Il Circo d’Acqua – this time the clown tried to clean the audience and sprayed us all.  Ugggg

During intermission most everyone exited to go and lood at the tank of piranha and something else that I couldn’t translate.  Maybe the contortionist/ticket taker/ magician assistant girl climbed in the tank?  We missed that.

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Take filled with creepy fish has its own truck.

We decided to watch the show happening by the popcorn and candy corn vendor – who was obviously the mom, sister or aunt of the performers.  Hoping to be discovered by the fathers/uncles who were in charge of sound and lights I entertained the kids around me with my silly faces and freeze game.  Well, I thought it was entertaining.

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Burly ticket/dish guy is also the hot fire guy.

Suddenly the lights dimmed and the music was foreboding.  With muscles bursting, burly ticket taker/ twirling plate guy appeared juggling fire!  Soon the fire was in his mouth and racing up his arms.  He burned up the audience with pyrotechnic surprises.  He actually stroked his arms with lit wands – we could see the charcoal black swaths cut over his biceps.  The women went ugggg, the kids went “can’t wait to get home and try that mom”.

Indian Jones music floated through the tent.  Roustabouts – the burly fire eating guy and clown guy – dragged out big mysterious black boxes.  The frame of a coffin was set center stage.  Clown guy returned dressed all in black.  He became the animal trainer guy  and slowly opened a box.  Shouts of fear went up as he took out a four bazillion foot white snake.  Screams from all as he walked closer and closer to the audience!  The magician/juggler/ringmaster guy pulled out a huge unhappy iguana.  They kept pulling out creepy crawly things and bringing them into the audience so all could see these fierce creatures.  Adults pulled back.  Small children reached up to touch them.  I gotta tell ya, snakes for a finale – now that is something I have never seen.

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Did I mention the snakes were enormous?

This revealing of a different snakes and having them dance, hiss and crawl went on for about fifteen minutes.  Ticket lady/contortionist/magician’s assistant girl came out sexily dressed and stepped into the coffin.  She laid frozen still as all of the snakes were plopped on her and slithered all over her.  I must admit, I got a little turned on from this – don’t tell my husband.  But no – I don’t want to try it.

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H’mm slithering serpents! A devilish good time.

The crowed cheered, the lights came up and the incredible cast of four bowed for all.  Ooops, I forgot the little girl – cast of five.  Their versatility is what makes them incredible.  Everyone doubled and tripled so that the show could go on.

This is a theatrical family that is doing what it loves to do in small towns across Italy.  Frankly, I am a little jealous.  Wafting nostalgic over my children’s theatre touring days, I wondered if I was too old and feeble to buy a van and tour a one woman show…

Don’t Tell – I Went to an Italian Tupperware Party!

Remember that scrumptious ravioli Carmela made for my birthday? (Check the May 15 blog – Pumpkin Ravioli.)  She used an incredible Tupperware ravioli mold – former – thingy.  I had to have one.

The Tupperware Lady told me that they don’t ship the stuff made in the USA here – cost too much.  There are Tupperware factories in Belgium, France and Portugal.  H’mm do they make special EU stuff that we can’t get – like great large ravioli former things????

Bye for now!  I’ve got ravioli to make.

Cell Phones – Can’t Leave Home Without Them!

The cell phone. Remember life without a cell phone?  I do!  One day on my way to work in Red Bank, NJ, I got a flat tire.  Hey, of course I KNEW how to change a tire but I was in a suit and didn’t WANT to change the tire.  So how did I get help?  In my high heels, I tottered down the street to the first house  and at 7:30 in the morning banged on the door.  Yup, I wasn’t afraid, serial killers didn’t enter my mind and obviously didn’t enter the mind of the woman who answered the door and called a gas station for me.  Then I got a cell phone.  Now, I realize that I can’t possibly navigate life’s curvy roads without a cell phone.

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Three months in Italy with out a cell phone was out of the question. We weighed the options.  One was to buy a cheap – no data  – phone and a local pay-for-minutes plan.  Nah!  Impossible! Truth be told we are addicted to our iPhones.  Want a restaurant?  Turn to the Yelp app.  On the road and need a hotel?  Turn to Hotel.com.  Lost? Pull out the google map and chart your way. All my contacts, Facebook friends,  Dropbox folders and more are on my iPhone.  What to do?  How much will it cost for a data plan?  The one thing we knew was that we were not going to buy the president of Verizon Wireless a new yacht by enrolling in their “cost you your first born child” international plan.  We had done that for short trips and relied on wi-fi zones to call each other through the free Viber  interface.  We also know lots of folks with iPads and iPhones that use Apple’s FaceTime.  Verizon had been notorious about not unlocking phones on contract so that you could install a pay-as-you go sim card.  I was ready to go the mattresses with the Verizon Global folks to demand a more equitable plan for our three month stay.  Was I surprised and delighted  to discover that Verizon had changed its policy and would unlock our iPhones.  I put our Verizon account on hold for three months and we left the country with unlocked phones.

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We raise a glass of thanks to our able guide in all things Italian – Annarita.

Meanwhile, Annarita Mancini, the best and most efficient person a traveler could have on their side, investigated pay-as-you go cell phone services.  Sit down  – you are not going to believe this.  For ten, not one hundred, but ten euros a month per phone,  Jack and I were able to have unlimited 3G, 400 texts (I am not an avid texter so this is enough for a life time) and 400 minutes of talk time.  So, for about $26 a month we get approximately the same bloody service for which we now pay Verizon $170 a month!  How can that be?!

Don’t  believe me?  Check out the web site:

http://www.wind.it/it/privati/ricaricabile/chiamate_messaggi_e_internet/all_inclusive_big/?gclid=CJ3bmbfTgbgCFc1e3godcmUA0Q

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Sym card is the size of my pointer finger nail.

Our service is through a company called Wind.  Now there have been some snafooos.  When we bought our new sim cards and swapped out the Verizon card we weren’t sure what to do next.  Jack always says, when in doubt hard reboot!  We did that by sticking a paper clip in the tiny iPhone reset hole. I bit my lip and did some good luck incantations.  Unnerving.  We turned the phones back on and one worked perfectly.  Jacks phone was in pazzo land.  My Italian wasn’t good enough to understand Wind support.  Annarita!!!

Morcone - built into the mountain.
Morcone – built into the mountain.

Over lunch in Morcone,  the nearby village that requires the legs of a goat to walk through, Annarita stayed on hold with Wind, made pushy noises and got Jack’s phone functioning.  The one annoying Wind security thing is that every time you shutdown your phone or runout of battery you have to re-enter your million number Wind security code.  Jack says I’m lying it isn’t a million numbers only four.  OK, he wins but I didn’t pick the four and I don’t remember the four.  The first month the service was great.  There were only a few spots on the mountain where we didn’t have ‘bars’.  We also don’t get service in our kitchen. Of course the bones of the house are medieval and all thick rock. The kitchen is an all rock internal room. I don’t think Verizon or AT&T could sneak through those thick walls either.

Month two arrived and we had to pay for the second months service.  We tried to do it online. It couldn’t be done by us.  To set up an on-line account, you need a Codice Fiscale number – think social security.  Annarita bought our sim cards before we got here.   Thinking my Codice Fiscale was bad or I had someone else’s, I kept cursing at the computer and the Italian government.  Later, we discovered that  Annarita had registered the sim card with her name and number.  Not a big deal.  You can go to almost any Tobacchi (cigarette and assorted stuff shop) or Edicolo (newspapers and magazine shop)  and top off your account.  We did that and all was well – we thought.  Jacks service continued,  mine stopped.  Eeeeeeh.  Annarita!!! She came and rebooted my phone.  Now why didn’t I think of that!   Once again all is brilliant in cell phone land.

Question – why is it so much cheaper here for cell phone usage?  All I could think of was, this is a smaller country and we only bought service for Italy not all of Europe.     But hey, I ain’t calling anyone in Greece.  Wait a second!  Jack and I are going to London for five days.  My brilliant niece Alexandra Rose is graduating from the London Academy of Music and Dramatic Arts.  We are hopping over to see her in a play and graduation review.  How much more than our ten euros will Wind charge for calls outside of Italy?  Two Euros a day ($2.60) that is how much more.  For that we get 30 minutes of call time, 30 text messages and 30 MB of internet data.  That extended plan is good for all of the European Union and the United States.  We have learned to turn off the data on our iPhones when traveling and just use wi-fi zones so the 30 MB won’t be an issue.

IMG_0842Next time you travel to Italy, unlock that phone and let you voice fly with Wind!

Streets Closed for Calcio!

After a super supper at the local restaurant, “È n’ata Cosa” (cda santa caterina, 82027 Pontelandolfo),  we drove into town.  Oops, I need to pause the story for a second.  All the foodies are wondering what we ate and how much we spent.

 Thinking it would be a light food night, while reading the menu, we started with a dish of  olives and a bottle of the local Aglianico wine.  Our thought of sharing a simple pizza margherita was abruptly erased. The waitress described the “frutta del mar”  –  mussels, clams, calamari, other fish I can’t remember,  oil and garlic – and we too were hooked.  Both of us ordered the seafood on linguine and were not disappointed.  We added salad and a bottle of aqua frizzante to round out the meal.  Oh the cost –  only 30 euros. That is about 40 bucks for lots of fresh seafood, a bottle of great wine and more.

Back to the story,   We wandered down towards Piazza Roma for an after dinner drink or two at one of the outdoor bars.  We love sitting outside and people watching.  We only grasp about 20% of the conversations – mostly spoken in dialect – but it is great fun to play Harriet the Spy and listen in on the plots and twists of everyday life.  Oops, Jack just looked over my shoulder and “ahhemed” – OK, OK, I’ll drop the papal “we”, I’m the only one that eavesdrops on folks.  We drove into town chatting away about the great meal when blinking lights and a temporary fence barred the way.

Whoa – a police barricade had closed off access to the piazza.  We screeched to a halt, were detoured to a one way street and wondered what was happening.  Screams and shouts could be heard through our closed car windows.  Was that fear?  Could something heinous be happening.  I looked at Jack and knew we had to get closer and find out what was going on.  He looked at me with that “are you pazzo?” expression.  We parked near the town recycling bins – far enough away to be safe and close enough to hear the sounds.  The screams turned into a wail – the piteous kind of forlorn wail that could only mean one possible thing in a small Italian town – some evil team scored a goal against Italy.

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Out the dark came the shouts of fans.

We rounded the corner and could see a movie screen set up in front of Bar 2000.  The street was closed off, picnic tables filled the street and about a hundred people were gathered watching a calcio match of Italy versus Brazil.

What a great marketing strategy for the bar!  I asked my cousin if the town charged the bars for closing the street – a potential additional income stream.  She didn’t think so.  Then I remembered I had to stop thinking like an American.  People of all ages from babies in strollers to great grandads were enjoying the cool night air together.  All the town had to do was put up a fence and a community event could be created.

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Picnic tables in the street.

We watched for a moment or two and walked the half a block to the next bar.  There, a flat screen TV was perched on an outdoor bar tuned to the same game.  A smaller but no less vocal crowd watched the game – or is that a match?  We stood there for a while too, adding our cheers, jeers and sighs to the sounds of the crowd.

Just a typical night in a small Italian village.

Cittadina Italiana – Citizenship

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In 2007 my mug graced my brand new Italian Passport.  The process to become a Cittadina Italiana took me about three years and numerous trips to the Philadelphia Consulate.  It took my sister less than one year and two trips to the Newark Consulate.  It took my niece (her picture is above) about 6 months.  It will take my cousin about three years plus.  WHAT????  Let  us start at the beginning. The questions most people ask me are these: Why would you do it?  What is the benefit of having dual citizenship?   Is the process difficult? How much did it cost you?

Why would I do it?

Why wouldn’t I do it is more like it.  In the early 1990’s I started actively researching the Guerrera Family Tree.  Piece by piece, I was collecting data, adding branches and getting more and more involved with the lives of people I had never met. To get a better handle on the research, I knew that I had to go to Pontelandolfo and visit the archives of the commune.  Zia Caterina, Jack and I made that journey in 1995 – another blog will tell you that whole story.  We not only added numerous branches to the tree but discovered my father and Zia Caterina’s first cousins!  When Zia Caterina and I had gone to Italy in the 70’s their uncles were still living – we missed an incredible opportunity then.  After meeting my extended Italian family, I became even more obsessed with all things Italian.  Particularly, all things related to this small village in Campania, Pontelandolfo. While we were there I bought a few copies of my grandmother’s and grandfather’s birth certificates and certificate of marriage.  That was an incredibly smart thing to do since folks have told me it is difficult to retrieve those documents via mailed requests – unless you use a service like http://myitalianfamily.com.

Nonno & Nonna
Nonno and Nonna

A quick search on line revealed that I was indeed eligible for citizenship – an act which would bring me even closer to my roots.  There was no “aha” moment or benefits lightbulb that exploded in my brain – just the deep seated need to be closer to my “i parenti,”  the DNA that makes me who I am.

What is the benefit?

How American of us to want to know what the hell we get out of the deal.  Like feeling closer to ones heritage isn’t enough!  Well, let me think what do I get out of it?  If Jack and I really do retire to Italy we are already part of the Italian community. During the Bush Jr. years, My sister and I did talk about moving quickly forward so that if the draft was reinstated and we didn’t particularly agree with the why behind the war we could get her kids out.  Now, that might have been our 1960’s sensibilities kicking in, because  Italy had mandatory service until January 1, 2005.   The other benefit is being able to work anywhere in the European Union – a benefit that my niece is actively using.  Further, I can stay in Italy or any of the Schengen Treaty countries for as long as I like – no ninety days for me!  ( Of course we are only staying 90 days this trip because Jack hasn’t applied for spousal citizenship yet.)  The USA State Department explains all this. http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_4361.html   OK, I am bored with the what is the benefit idea – the benefit is IT MAKES ME HAPPY.

What is the process?

Ah, this is tricky!  In the over ten years since my family has gone through this process it has changed based on who we spoke to in which consulate and new regulations.  Here is the basic tenet – if one of your parents was an Italian citizen at the time of your birth – no matter where you are born – than you by blood are an Italian citizen.  Yikes, my dad was born in Manville, NJ – does that disqualify me?  No!  My grandparents had not become American citizens until after my dad’s birth.  That automatically made him an Italian citizen living abroad.  Did my father know that? No!  When I explored the process I explained it to him and he couldn’t believe it.  He had served as a Navy pilot during WWII, had been Mayor of our home town – how could he also be an Italian citizen?  Guess what – lots of you probably are eligible – here is what is currently on The Italian Embassy Website.

CITIZENSHIP BY DESCENT / DESCENT (” jure sanguinis “)  And ‘the son of an Italian citizen parents (father or mother) Italian citizens. Citizenship is transmitted from parents to children regardless of generation, with the condition that none of their ancestors ever renounced the nationality.

Go to the web site to read all of the rules and regulations. 

http://www.esteri.it/MAE/IT/Italiani_nel_Mondo/ServiziConsolari/Cittadinanza.htm

The first step is to discover when the elder of your Italian American family became a citizen.  We were lucky, my Zia Caterina saved everything.  Including her dad’s certificate of citizenship.

We still have the original!
We still have the original!

Since my dad didn’t know he was an Italian citizen, he didn’t renounce it.  When he found out, he was thrilled and admitted he never would have renounced it.  OK, I had the blood line covered.  Now what – this is the story of what I went through.  Next will be my sister’s story, then my niece and finally my cousin.

Midge’s Story:

I hop over to the Italian Consulate in Philadelphia and ask for a list of the requirements for citizenship.  At that time it listed things like : Birth and Death Certificates of my Grandfather,  Naturalization Certificate of my Grandfather, Marriage Certificate to my Grandmother, Birth Certificate of my Grandmother,Birth Certificate of my Father, Marriage Certificate of My Parents, Birth Certificate of Midge, Marriage License and Certificate of Midge, Birth Certificate of Midge’s Husband.  Easy – no brainer!  When I had the time, I drove from city to city in New Jersey and New York and bought the required documents.  Full of myself for accomplishing this, I waltzed into the Philadelphia Consulate without an appointment.  They took me into a secret room and I waited.  After about a half an hour of staring at the art, a lovely woman pulled me into an office and looked at my fat folder.  She smiled an said I was on the right track but needed an apostile for each document.  An apostile?  Wasn’t that one of the men who travelled with Jesus?  Turns out an apostile is a certificate from a state that guarantees that the documents that I just bought from a variety of towns were valid.  OK, so on the way home I stop in Trenton and go to the apostile office.  They explain that they can’t put an apolstile on any of the documents that I just dropped a couple of hundred dollars on because I didn’t buy them from the NJ Office of Vital Statistics. But, I stammered, the oficies of vital statistics in each town were happy to take my money.  A week or so later, I go back to Trenton and buy all of the same documents.  Since there were so many I had to have them processed.   That took a few weeks – when I got them guess what they looked like?  The same bloody pieces of paper but they originated from the NJ Office of Vital Statistics!  Off to pay for the apostiles.  I don’t remember what all this cost me but I think about $25 a piece of paper times two.  If you order documents online there are additional fees. This is from the NJ Office of Vital Statistics:

How do I obtain a record with an Apostille Seal? You must purchase a copy of your vital record from the Office of Vital Statistics and Registry and indicate on your application that it is needed for Apostille Seal. You will receive a certified copy, which contains the original signature of the State Registrar or Assistant State Registrar. You must forward this certificate to the Department of Treasury requesting an Apostille Seal.

Since my parents were married in New York City, it took a full day to gather the documents from NYC Boro Hall and then walk a few blocks to the State of New York Office to request the apostille. During each step of the process, I purchased additional copies of every document so that my sister would have a set.  When I had a completed set, I made an appointment at the Philadelphia Consulate and carried the box in.  I did make a copy of my entire packet, just so that I knew what I submitted.  About one and a half years later I got a letter from Pontelandolfo saying that I was a citizen.  Wheeeeeeeeooooooooooo.

Sister Susan:

Susan had copies of all of the documents.  When she got around to doing this, residents of Somerset County New Jersey were told to use the Consulate in Newark.  We read the website and made an appointment for her – it was about four months out.  We also read the new regulations – she needed a translation of every document – including the apostiles.  You were only allowed to use an Italian translater from the consulate’s approved list.  That cost her about $50 a document.  This was all done via e-mail.  We scanned the documents and sent them off.  Scanned translations came back.  This was great we thought – because now my cousin Maryellen can use the same translations.  Susan took her two children to the appointment.  We figured we would process everyone at the same time.  WRONG.  Susan had to be certified first.  She was missing something – I can’t remember what – but I do remember pleading and begging with the consulate employee because whatever it was I knew was on file from me in Pontelandolfo. Susan made a second appointment and returned with whatever had been left on the dining room table.  During the second visit, she is given a document that she is told her daughter can use to prove lineage and easily apply for citizenship.  We go for dinner and a drink or three.  Just a few months later Susan gets her letter of recognition.

Niece Alex:

Alex lives and goes to university in London.  I suggested she use the London Consulate.  She took her handy document from Newark and back up documents and headed to that office.  They told her she needed to supply the same complete package that her mother had submitted and that the little certificate from Newark was nothing. UGGGGG.  All of this is now done electronically, Alex asked if they couldn’t just get the same documents sent back to them?  No.  Another appointment please.  Oh yeah, now we have to make the packet and get it to London!  She brings the packet and is nervous about completion.  She would like to stay and work in Europe and the EU Passport would be very helpful.  Months go by and she hears nothing.  She visits and e-mails the London Consulate and they say all things were e-mailed to Pontelandolfo.  We asked our cousin to visit the Pontelandolfo office of Vital Statistics and check on Alex’s status.  Instantly, her paperwork was done and her certification sent off.

Formal Letter
Formal Letter

Cousin Maryellen:

Takes all of the same documents – but adds her dad’s information – translated and in a cute folder to her appointment at the Newark Consulate.  There, she doesn’t get past the triage dude.  You see, my grandfather’s birth certificate from Italy says Francesco Guerrera but his citizenship papers say Frank Guerrera – how do we know it is the same person?  This name change – a common occurrence – happened with her father’s documents and our grandmothers.  They told her nothing could be processed until she got the documents certified as belonging to the same person.  I was with her and argued up a storm, explaining that two of us had already used the exact same documents and gotten citizenship. Further, all of the documents were already on file in Pontelandolfo.  He shrugged.  We left and Maryellen hasn’t moved the process forward. So lessons learned.  Double check everything.  Read all new regulations.  If you can, have a local relative in Italy lobby for you! What did it cost me?  Do we count the trip to Italy to buy the birth and marriage certificates?  I’d say if you include travel and all the mistakes I made it cost me about $1,000.  It cost my sister about the same because it was $50 a document for translation plus the cost of the original documents and apostile.

Was it worth it?

Hell yes!

Fiori di Zucca Fritta – Fried Squash Blossoms

Gardens all over Pontelandolfo are bursting with zucchini flowers.  Folks plant tons of plants – not because they are looking for an abundance of zucchini to give to their neighbors, but so they can eat the blossoms!

First step was to pick the flowers.  In Flagtown, NJ where we have tried to plant zucchini, the deer get there first.  Here in Pontelandolfo, deer are not a problem.  Midge, who loves fried zucchini flowers, is the natural predator.  Today, when I got back to our house Zia Vittoria,our fabulous landlady, walked out and said don’t cook – I have fiori di zucca.  Well, I don’t really know what she said because she speaks the dialect of the village and I only understand about 10 %.  But – I saw the flowers –  and I knew where she was going.  So, I volunteered to help her fry up a batch and learn her technique.  I’ve made these too and my recipe is a bit different.  We will follow Zia Vittoria’s recipe and talk about mine later.

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Flour, eggs, salt and tad of yeast powder. Let it sit a bit.

It looked and felt like the consistency of pancake batter – or a Bisquick batter.  She had it resting in front of a sunny window and it was uncovered.

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How pretty those sweet things are.

The zucchini blossoms were fairly large.  First we popped off the stems. (I’ve never seen that done before)  Then we washed them and let them drain.

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Squish and they are flatter and bigger looking.

This next step was totally new to me.  She took a dish towel, hand dried each blossom and flattened it.  Just a bit of pressure between two sections of the dish towel.

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Blossoms just floating in batter.

Then she dumped a bunch of them into the batter and let them sit a while.

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Most village homes have more than one kitchen. The working kitchen where you make really messy stuff, like huge vats of sauce, smoke prosciutto, can vegetables etc. This home has a working kitchen in a small separate house – with a huge fireplace and wood burning oven – they really do smoke meat there.

Meanwhile she choose a small frying pan with high sides and filled it about 3/4’s of the way with olive oil.  She ladled the oil from a big vat in her working kitchen.  I was shocked!  We have all been told for years not to deep fry in olive oil.  I asked her and she said something like, ” why should I buy oil to fry in when we make our own perfectly fine olive oil.”  I waited to see if it would smoke or flame or turn us into strega – but no it worked perfectly fine.

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Gentle does it!

The next step was to gently turn each blossom in the batter.  She used a flick of her wrist and didn’t tear one flower.

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At this point my mouth waters.

By now the oil was sizzling and bubbling – stil no flames of death or smoke.  Each blossom was plopped in the hot oil until she filled one layer of the pan.  After the first side was brown, she used a slotted spoon and flipped them over.  Meanwhile, I put paper towels on a number of trays – yes I got the simple job – I washed the dishes too!

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I should have doubled up the paper towels.

When the second side was brown the blossoms were taken out – again using a slotted spoon and placed on paper towels to drain.  At this point, you can add some salt to them.   Here is the finished product!  They were enveloped in a light pancake and very tasty.

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Instead of an appetizer this turned out to be lunch – we couldn’t stop eating them.

Mine were a little different.  What follows is a batch I made last week from some purloined blossoms.

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Jack and I had wine and blossoms for a late night snack. Ahhhhhhh

I didn’t use yeast – just eggs, flour, salt and pepper.  We had some left over cheese that was drying out so I sliced chunks and stuck a few pieces inside each blossom.  Then I dredged them in the batter and fried them in canola oil.  As they were draining, I did toss some salt on the blossoms . They came out really crispy and light with oozing cheese in the middle.

Happy blossom hunting!

A Typical Day – Video Blog Experiment

Yikes, these Apple products are cool.  I had no idea how to make a video blog of myself talking about Pontelandolfo.  Then I remembered, I had a Mac Air Book – or is that a MacBook Air – and I guessed there would be a way that was so easy a kid could do it.  So I called over a 5 year old Italian kid – who couldn’t read the English directions but pointed the screen of the lap top at me and said “Parli”.  So I did.  Let me know what you think of the Video Blog idea.  As an aging theater professional, it is easy to talk and talk and talk….

Ciao Ciao Linda in Abruzzo

I have no idea if this link will seamlessly lead you to Ciao Ciao Linda’s blog – but I hope so.  She has just written about truffle hunting in Abruzzo and it made my mouth water.  My cousin’s husband Mario also hunts for truffles here in Pontelandolfo and we have had some incredible truffle based meals.  Give a glance at Linda’s blog – I bet you’ll get hungry too.  Boun appetit.

http://ciaochowlinda.blogspot.it/2013/06/truffle-hunting-in-abruzzo.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed:+CiaoChowLinda+(Ciao+Chow+Linda)