Biennale Arte di Venezia

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On the Vaporetto to the Giardini and the Biennale!

We were excited to attend La Biennale di Venezia.  The 56th International Art Exhibition ran from  May 9th to November 22nd 2015.  Visiting Venice years ago, we had strolled through the Giardini, looked at empty buildings that every two years are filled with art and vowed to return.  Each country that participates in the Biennale has it’s own building to fill or we discovered – to barely fill  – with representative art of their country.  The exhibition takes place not only at the Giardini but also the Arsenale and in various locations across the city of Venice.

 

Curated by Okwui Enwezor, this year’s event got a scathing review in Art News.  Not to be put off by one person’s point of view and because we never do what we are told, Jack and I booked our train tickets and headed to Venice.

Our Cittidini Anziani – old people – tickets cost of €20 and were good for exploring both artsy sites – Giardini and the Arsenale.  The space is open and easy to navigate.  We strolled from pavilion to pavilion.  It was incredibly interesting to see the stylistic differences between artists and the types of art that were chosen by each country.  It was also interesting to look around and note that probably most of the 501,502 visitors and over 8,000 journalists that the exhibit attracted were our age.

One exhibit that the arts administrator in me found really enlightening was a giant space featuring blow ups of audience surveys from famous museums.  The surveys went back to the 1800s and asked many of the same demographic questions that we ask today.  Current exhibition viewers could sit with an iPad and take the Biennale survey.  As I did that, my answers immediately changed the results by 1 and were projected.  Most of the visitors to the Biennale have an advanced degree!  That bothered me – was it because only people with advanced degrees can afford to go to Venice?  There were young people interspersed among the baby boomers – were they all in graduate programs?  Hmmmm.

Jack and I love to go to museums and galleries.  We appreciate art of all types and eras.  That said – oh you know what is coming – she is going to say something bitchy about someone.  Who picks the American Artist?  I won’t say her name because she might be someone I got drunk with in the 60’s – actually her art reminded me of the crap some of my friends handed in to their art teachers in the 60’s.  The exterior of the American Pavillon could use a touch of paint and maintenance.  We entered through a side door held open by a fire extinguisher – charming.  The darkened interior sported a variety of screens all featuring the same film.  Two young girls dressed like  Isadora Duncan’s Isadorables scampered about, beat on a wooden log with sticks and generally didn’t do anything interesting.  Hung on the walls were props from the films, repeated repeated repeated prints and – oh I really can’t even talk about it.  With all the artists in the United States WHY THIS STUFF?

I did a little research and figured it out!  The artist teaches at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and guess who curated the American Pavillon?  Good guess – MIT!!!!  They must have a “sacco di soldi” or access to the big list of sponsors that put up the cash for this trash.  Oops – I didn’t mean to make a disparaging comment.

Here’s a short video of just some of the exhibition halls we visited.  We intend to go again.  We had a great time – even if we did snicker at some of the art. Enjoy.

Ci Vediamo!

In 2016 Learn to Speak Italian

Join Nonna’s Mulberry Tree

October 1 – 15, 2016

Love the school. Could I win the lottery and stay here?

Alghero, Sardinia

Gulp – who knew that the first Nonna’s Mulberry Tree Travel Event would have been such a success! Our 2015 journey to Alghero, Sardinia was a huge hit! We partnered with an incredible language school – Centro Meditterraneo Pintadera.

Thirteen independent travelers improved their Italian Language Skills, immersed themselves in Italian Culture, lived like a local, shopped the market and strolled Alghero’s sea wall.

It is time to register for our 2016 excursion back to this charming island. Pintadera really provides incredible “bang for the buck” – or in this case Euro. The trip is limited to 15 adventurers. Ten days of classes, cultural activities, welcoming gathering, welcoming dinner and concierge services costs €680. Registration fee is $50. Housing prices are based on your accommodations and range between €400 – €800 for the two weeks.

That means for less than €1500 you can spend two weeks in Alghero, take ten – three hour classes (lessons from 9 to 1pm with coffee break, so four hours – total 40hours of language classes in two weeks) and have a wickedly great time! For the complete packet of information – leave me a comment!

Here is what 2015 adventurer Aileen Mroz had to say:

This is the second time I have attended a 2-week class at Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera, and it was even better than the first time I went.

One of the best features is that classes are small, typically 4 to 6 people.    The teachers are personable and are from Alghero, yet their Italian is the best and of the highest level.  They ensure that each person participates fully during class, yet you don’t feel pressured.   There is a perfect blend of conversation, grammar, and reading.   The instructors adjust the topics for the classes on a dime toward whatever problem areas they notice the class is experiencing (e.g. prepositions, the subjunctive, pronouns), so that you get an extra boost of practice in those areas.   Although parts of learning a language can be very dry, there is no chance of that in Pintadera because the teachers incorporate local stories and much humor during class.    I laughed so much during class at Pintadera that my stomach would ache, and I could just feel my endorphin levels spiking!  (Check out Jack laughing while learning.)

alghero 9At midmorning every day, you go to a nearby café for a break with all the students in the school.   You get a chance to sample the wonderful espresso, have a delicious pastry, or just sip a Diet Coke while you’re chatting.   I think you learn just as much, if not more, from the breaks as from the classes. Your fellow students may be from the U.S., or Germany, or Sri Lanka, or Norway, or Switzerland; and you see them every day in class and on break, and maybe for a meal or a trip to the beach.    You get to hear, first hand, what folks from other countries think about the US, get their points of view on the international situation, listen to funny stories and interesting customs; and find out the inside political scoop in other countries.

The directors of the school, Nicola and Angela, go the extra distance to make you feel taken care of.   They arrange for your transportation to and from the airport;  to find picturesque, comfortable apartments or rooms to in which to live while you’re at the school;  to introduce students to the local cuisine and wines;  to organize side trips or outings which suit each person’s wishes—-whether it’s a hike;  a boat trip on the ocean to Neptune’s Grotto with the tang of adventure when you step across a narrow gangplank from a heaving mini-ferry into a sea cave with caverns the size of a football field; or a chug around Alghero in a little brightly colored open train and a local narrator with funny stories.

Ken Kowalski added: The consistency of the high quality teaching and the expertly organized series of lessons over the two weeks, developed my abilities to listen to, understand, and speak the Italian language well beyond what happens in once-a-week classes at home. Add to that the reinforcement of speaking Italian with classmates after school and in shops and eateries around Alghero made this a powerful learning experience.

Raymond Barbieri touched me deeply with this comment:  The experience put me back in touch with my ancestry and I appreciated my family more than ever. I realized how much Italian I knew and how much more I needed to learn, which makes me feel excited. There is so much more I can tell you but I will close by saying that I never felt more at home in a foreign place. Thank you for your experience, drive, love of our Italian history and your good nature.

2016 is your year to enhance your Italian with a trip to Centro Mediterreano Pintadera! Let me know today!

2015 in review

Thank you all for being a part of the Nonna’s Mulberry Tree family. I truly appreciated all the support the blog got in 2015.  The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2015 annual report for the blog.  It reminded me just how important each and everyone of you are to the blog’s success.

Here’s an excerpt:

The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 8,700 times in 2015. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 3 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.

There were 94 pictures uploaded, taking up a total of 92 MB. That’s about 2 pictures per week.

The busiest day of the year was October 27th with 217 views. The most popular post that day was Balance.

Have a wonderful New Year!  May 2016 bring  you all health, happiness and prosperity.

Ci Vediamo!

Midge

Impresari Giovani – Young Entrepreneurs

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Annarita Mancini wrote this story in English.  I Translated it into Italian.  It was an opportunity for both of us to work on our language skills.  Enjoy!

“I sogni possono diventare realtà e possono avverarsi se sei giovane nel cuore” – e ambizioso, brillante, diligente e ti dedichi 500% alla tua idea. Questa è la storia di un sogno che è diventato una realtà per due amiche che hanno trovato il sistema per creare Dottor Sfuso – un negozio a Morcone dove tutti gli alimentari sono locali, biologici e senza imballo di cartone o plastica.

“Dreams can come true and they can happen to you if you are young at heart” – and ambitious, smart, hardworking and willing to give 500% to an idea. This is a story of a fantasy that became a reality for two friends who used the system to create Dottor Sfusa a shop in Morcone (BN) where all goods are local, organic and not encumbered with cardboard or plastic packaging.

Annarita’s Story – with a little tweaking from me:

Elena (Elena Baldini) e io siamo amiche da quando eravamo piccole. Un giorno, lei mi ha parlato di questa idea che le gironzolava in testa da tanti giorni! Lei sognava di aprire un negozio di alimentari, ma con prodotti senza imballaggio . Noi abbiamo cominciato a fatasticare su quest’ idea. Per tante ore, abbiamo girato, girato, girato… “brainstorming.” Ridendo, ridendo, abbiamo pensato ai nomi divertenti che era possibile usare per il nostro negozio. OK, OK, forse quando abbiamo cominciato, non pensavamo seriamente di realizzare il nostro progetto.

Elena (Elena Baldini) and I have been friends since we were little girls. One day, she told me about the idea that had been percolating in her head for days! She was thinking about creating a shop where nothing came in a box. We started to fantasize about it. We spent may hours driving around and brainstorming about this idea. Above all laughing – laughing at the funniest names we could use for the shop. Ok, Ok, perhaps in the beginning we weren’t thinking about the serious sides of the business plan.

Sfuso

Here is the name they picked!  Sfuso means loose.  All items are without packaging and “loose”  – environmentally friendly.

Dopo avere parlato e parlato abbiamo capito che la nostra idea era brillante! Abbiamo assunto un commercialista per aituarci a capire come cominciare. POP! Il nostro sogno è andato in frantumi, quando lui ci ha detto quanti soldi avremmo dovuto avere per aprire il negozio. Siamo usciti con il cuore in pezzi. Come la fata di Cenerentola, lui ci ha chiamato: con la carrozza ci accompagnerà alla festa – SVILUPPITALIA! Avremmo ricevuto assitenza dallo stato!

The more we talked the more we realized that the idea was brilliant. We hired an accountant to help us understand how to get started. Pop! The fantasy exploded in our faces when he told us just how much money we DIDN’T have to start the business. We left broken hearted. Like Cindarella’s fairy godmother, he called with the coach that could take us to the ball – SVILUPPITALIA! It was possible to get financial assistance from the state!

There is an overview of Sviluppo on the  Italian Workforce site.

NO!  MIDGE IS A FAILURE!  SHE REFUSES TO TRANSLATE ANY MORE BECAUSE HER BRAIN IS EXPLODING.  THE STORY WILL CONTINUE ONLY IN ENGLISH.

After meeting with the SVILUPPITALIA coach we looked at each other and smiled – then cried.  There was so much work to do.  We had to write down the complete idea!  It wasn’t very easy.  They wanted us to describe and analyze every detail. We had to write all about the place where we meant to open the shop.  There was a check list –  how many places of interest, public service agencies and other shops were close by.  We hit the streets to do an inventory.

The bottom line was we had to create a workable business plan, find our vendors, create a budget that included all aspects of starting the business, research who our competition was and understand how to market!  Whew, we have always been hard workers and luckily – or unluckily – with the crisis in Italy we were both available to work on the project full time.  One of the reasons the government has this program is to help the young people of Southern Italy create their own jobs.  They also feel that the more activity there is in the south the more tourists will come.

sfusa jars

The big question was – WHY SHOULD THEY CHOOSE OUR PROJECT TO FUND!   They needed to know how we meant to develop the idea – an idea that was really different.  In a small village buying food from bins with out packages was not the  ordinary way to sell things – but we didn’t care.  We were thinking about the growing garbage piles, and unfortunately the growing prices of everything.  We wanted to save the planet and the wallet.  If people needed to discover a new way of shopping, we would help them. The planning and the application took us a year.  We waited another year and happily received the state money. Of course this money was not ours forever.  We have 5 years to give the money back.

A&E Sfusa

Happy Entrepreneurs – Annarita and Elena on Opening Day!

Finally we opened this little activity. We sell pasta, legumes, rice, flour, candies, spices – that I adore, tea, tisanes, perfumes, detergents, and other things like this.  It is the kind of shop where you can buy the kinds of things you need in the amount you need.  I think it is a great idea and who knows in a couple of years maybe we will open Doctor Sfuso all around the world.

Doctor Sfuso is a fabulous shop with great products.  We shop there often.  For Christmas you can help Santa Claus and buy neat gifts at the store that cares about the environment.

Doctor Sfuso

Via Roma 145, Morcone (BN)

Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo

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Some of the great people who follow my exploits in Pontelandolfo (BN), have asked why they too can’t experience the life in a little Italian village.  Hmmm, I thought, why can’t you!  From Saturday, May 21 to Saturday, May 28, 2016 a very small group – 5-10 people only – will be up to their elbows in Southern Italian home cooking and up to their ears in village life.

For one week, become part of a very small hill top village. No belching tourist buses unloading hordes of people. No souvenir shops filled with stuff made somewhere else. Instead, discover the heart and soul of Southern Italy through its people and food. The Italy that still rests in the afternoon. The Italy that loves to shop directly from the local butchers, pasticceria, fruit and vegetable trucks and the weekly outdoor market.

Hmmm, the scents of fresh vegetables, herbs, meats and grains waft through the kitchen. Pots simmer, pasta boards are out and a wood fire burns in the oven. Welcome to the kitchens of Pontelandolfo. Experience the Southern Italian cooking perfected by the women of the south. Not in a restaurant, not in a cooking school but in the same kitchens these women use to feed their families. Learn the recipes and techniques that have been passed down for generations. Roll up your sleeves, don your apron and get ready to cook.

A local translator will be available for all classes. Or you can practice your Italian – all the cooks and local shop owners only speak Italian.

Included Highlights:

Transportation from the Benevento Train Station to Pontelandolfo

7 nights, single room, with television, refrigerator, morning caffè and coronetto

Welcoming apertivo in a local bar.

Sunday Pranza (Lunch)

5 morning Cooking Classes with local cooks culminating in lunch.

Excursion to the Festa of St. Rita in Casalduni

Open-air market

Excursion to Roman Ruins – Altilia Ruins

Walking Tour of The City of Martyrs – Pontelandolfo 1861

Wine tasting at a local vintner

Meet the local butchers, baker and cheese makers.

Excursion to the museums and shops of Benevento

Translator

Transportation to a different local restaurant each night.

Leave a comment asking for the particulars and I will e-mail you!

Nonna’s Mulberry Tree’s first Italian excursion to Alghero, Sardinia with great Italian classes at Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera was a smashing success.  A second adventure is scheduled for October 2016!  More to follow!

 

Fittacamere Al Castello

You have heard me go on and on and on about the magical little Italian village that Jack and I live in.  Pontelandolfo is a great example of a Southern Italian mountain town.  H’mm your thinking – will Midge put us all up in her house?  What? Come visit and when you do, you can stay in one of the little hotels and the agriturismo that open their doors to guests.  I must admit, I didn’t realize they existed. Very few local businesses do any public relations or have web-sites.

In August, Pontelandolfo is a magnet attracting back Pontelandolfesse from around the world.  When we first noticed the influx of “tourists” I thought they were all staying with relatives.  Boy, was I wrong.  Over the last few years, I’ve discovered that our little village on the mountain has a number of afittacamere – rooms to let or B&B’s.   I’ve decided to introduce you to places that would be happy to have you.  Now, there is no excuse not to come to Pontelandolfo.   WAIT – that doesn’t mean we don’t like guests.  Well….

I visited Fittacamere Al Castello –  a mini hotel just a short cobblestone walk from Piazza Roma.  It is at the base of the medieval tower that is the icon of the village.  The totally restored building heralds back to the 1800s. The original structure was a granary – place that held grain – and the home of one large family. Over the years it was enlarged and more families shared the space.  Earthquakes wreaked havoc on the building.  The current owners, Donato Addona, and his wife fell in love with the building – sans roof, some walls etc.  He said when they bought it he could see the sky.  It was a total wreck.  They began restoration in 2002 and didn’t put the final touches on the property until 2008.  They did a great job.  You can still see and feel the history of the building. I loved the fact that the owner’s son created a piece of art for every room.

Al Castello

Each room has a fairly large bathroom with a shower, television and small refrigerator.  All I could think about was stocking the fridge with local wine and cheese. Then wandering out to the common area with a good book. Some rooms have incredible views of the valley. There are only about 7 rooms and each one has a different configuration of beds.  A couple have matrimonio – king size beds.  Others have twins or a combination of both.  The “breakfast” room is large, warm and welcoming.  A great place to read a book or write that novel.

The address is Corso Vittorio Emanuele III – oops last year they renamed the road in honor of the Rinaldi Brothers, victims of the 1861 Summer of Terror.  (See Pontelandolfo 1861 story.) The affitacamere is located on Via Fratelli Rinaldi #8.  They don’t have a sign, so you have to know where you are going. Just ask anyone.

To make a reservation or get more information call +39.340.58.24.263 or +39.347.04.36.837.   The owners don’t speak English and or have answering machines. So you can’t leave a message.  Grab one of your Italian speaking buddies to make the call for you or email the owner at Donato.addona59@gmail.com.

Need more photos – hit play!  I’ll be telling you about other places to rest your heads in future posts!  Ci vediamo a Pontelandolfo!

Per Ricordare E Non Dimenticare

Those of you that know me, know that my command of the Italian language is mediocre at best.  No, no, no, do not try to suck up to me by telling me I can do more than get a room in a hotel, food in a restaurant and make little kids laugh.

What I can do is weave a story. When Renato Rinaldi, the editor of Pontelandolfo News, asked me to translate the stories behind the historic sites in town I gasped. “Me?”  Was he kidding?  Everyone in town has to help me with my Italian.

He wasn’t kidding.  What he was looking for was an English speaker with a passion for the history of our village and the ability to tell the story of one of the most horrific incidents in the history of Italy’s reunification – the burning and pillage of Pontelandolfo in 1861.

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Renato has written articles about this period, spoken at events and edited incredible books that shed light on Pontelandolfo’s role during the reunification of Italy.  His most recent compilation is Pontelandolfo 14 agosto 1861 – PER RICORDARE E NON DIMENTICARE 

This past summer, I immersed myself in this story.  Renato, like a brilliant actor, told me bits and pieces that stoked my imagination.  I am thankful for the opportunity to help him share this story with English speakers.  Follow the link – touch the name of the historic site in town and when it opens touch English for the translation.

Itinerario Storico dell’ Eccidio del 1861

Ci vediamo!

I Gesti Italiani!

Take 12 italo-americani.  Seat them in a circle.  Bring in a teacher who really should be an actress. Make everyone’s hands leap, writhe, point, wring and finally clap.  That is exactly what Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera – the best Italian Language school I’ve found – had a group of us doing.

This past October, Nonna’s Mulberry Tree, offered its first excursion – to Alghero Sardegna to study at Pintadera.

The 2016 trip to Pintadera is October 1 – 15!  Leave a comment if you’re interested.

We studied Italian language every day for ten days and spent our afternoons doing fun stuff.  Like taking a class with Roberta on Italian hand gestures.  It was a hoot.  You really don’t want to read about it.  You want to see it.

Enjoy!