Complementi Pontelandolfo 1861!

Ponte Old

 Sono orgolioso di “Pontelandolfo 1861”!  Bravo!

(I am proud of “Pontelandolfo 1861”! )

I know that is not an attention grabbing first line but, damn, I am so proud of the my little Italian home town’s latest initiative.

With funding  – finanziamente -from the Unione EuropeaFondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: l’Europe investe nelle zone rurali (European Union – investment program for rural areas), Italian Ministero Delle Politiche Agricole Alementari E Forestali (Italy’s Department of Agriculture, Food and Forests) , and the Regione Campania Assessorato Agricoltura (Region’s Department of Agriculture)  – Pontelandolfo is undergoing a renaissance.

Renato Rinaldi of the Pontelandolfo News (Pontelandolfonews.com) made sure I got an invitation to the August 26th –

Presentazione progetto “1861 i luoghi dell’eccidio”

Alla manifestazione di presentazione del progetto “1861 i luoghi dell’eccidio”, progetto integrato per la realizzazione di un itinerario storico-turistico alla scoperta della città martire di Pontelandolfo.  (A presentation of the “1861 places of the massacre”,an integrated project designed to attract historical tourism to the martyred city of Pontelandolfo.)

Renato Rinaldi, who has written a complete history of the period, gave an overview of the history.  He has a great voice and engaging presentation.  After the presentation I asked if he had been an actor.

Prof. Renato Rinaldi, Gabriele Palladino, Sindaco Dott. Gianfranco Rinaldi,  l’artista Riccardo Fortuna

This presentation gave the community an overview of the project that will hopefully give a financial boost to Pontelandolfo.  With funding from all levels of government the historic center of the town is undergoing a much needed facelift. Buildings that have crumbled over the last 1,000 years are being restored, a charming park with a great view was just finished and the town council is committed to bringing tourists back – or perhaps here for the first time.

I know, I know this sounds like the dream and plan of every small Italian town – here is why I am SO PROUD.  Pontelandolfo came up with a very specific and chilling historic hook.  On the 14th of August 1861 the town was destroyed – burned to a crisp.  After being forced from their homes, men, women and children were butchered.  Is that date percolating in your brain?  This was during the not so peaceful march to unify Italy – risorgimento.  What – women and children were murdered?  Yup!  Rebels from San Lupo – folks who were content with their Burbone King –   had hidden in Pontelandolfo and popped out to kill a couple of Garibaldi’s soldiers. General Cialdini was in charge with getting Southern Italy to toe the unification line.  He wasn’t pleased with loosing a few men and sent 500 soldiers to Pontelandolfo and Casalduni with the order not to let a rock remain.  Hey – we are talking farmers here – no hidden weapons of mass destruction.  It was one terrifying and troubling night.  The story plays well – believe me – the underdog – rebels for a just cause etc.  It is quite the hook!  Books have been written about it – the most recent a Fumetto sull’eccidio di Pontelandolfo e Casalduni – graphic novel with great art by Riccardo Fortuna. Riccardofortuna.it. In 2011, the President of Italy actually apologized for the massacre.

Statue

Realizzato dallo scultore Mario Ferrante

Wonderful sculpture representing the horror by Mario Ferrante.

Check out this incredible website – the google offer to translate pops up – Pontelandolfo1861.  I hope they continue to grow this site and add more information for tourists – in a variety of languages.

During the presentation we heard from il sindaco Gianfranco Rinaldi – the mayor.   He announced that this was a two pronged program.  First the centro storico would be rehabbed, the website completed and signage describing the medieval history of the town and the night of terror would be placed around the town.  They also printed two pamphlets to describe the towns  history.  They are slick and I hope they will let me help create a set in English.  The art work on the large signs is wonderful and I am sure the Italian descriptions are perfect.  The English translations need some revision.

 Signs at worksites are popping up all over. Thanks EU!

The second phase is to attract tourists to come.  I am not sure how they plan to do that but hope they include an italo-americano in the strategy session.

SO PROUD!!!

Culture Clashes – The Good and the Not So Good

This is not a rant.  I am not in a foul and ugly mood.  It is just that after a while I can no longer hold my tongue.  Some things in Italy annoy me.

Kids and Cars –

Everyone out there who is as old as I am can remember the fun filled roll around in the back seat time before mandatory seat belts.  Clean it up, I’m talking about being a kid and not buckled into your assigned third of the seat.  As toddlers we would stand on the back seat of the car peering out the back window, sticking our tongues out at the drivers behind us.  Or hanging out the side window and giving trucks the arm pull down signal for tooting their big horn – then getting yelled out for sticking our heads out.  When  you were about 4,can you remember sitting on your dad’s lap and “driving the car” ?  How about those fun filled times riding in the back of the pick up truck.  Sitting on the edge of the truck bed and balancing as the wind whipped your face.  Then there was the piece of plywood my father had cut to fit the back seat of the car that my mom tossed pillows on.  it was an instant bed for long drives.  So what if the car flipped and we flopped around.  Somehow we all survived and made it to – well whatever age we are.  Then someone started keeping data on folks killed in cars.  A lot of them and many because they weren’t buckled in.  Safety first!  Seat belts save lives!  Well, where car safety is concerned, here in Southern Italy it is kind of like 1955 .  I see toddlers standing on front seats – wheeee – you can really see out the window.  Now, not all parents do that – I have seen kids buckled up for safety.  Frankly though, I see more standing on seats and hardly ever see a car seat.  Someone lovingly holds all the wee ones.  The absolute worse thing I saw was in Puglia – a helmetless tiny tyke on the back of a giant motor cycle clutching dad’s shirt as they sped through town.  Jack pointed out the kid was smiling and I was the only one having a hissy-fit.  Apparently, according to Jack, I am often the only one having a hissy-fit.   Is this car riding freedom a good thing or a not so good thing?  You decide.

You Can Dress Them Up But You Can’t Shut Them Up –

This is the second year that Comicron,  the fabulous  international comic short film festival was staged in Piazza Roma.  Artisitic Director, Ugo Gregoretti spent his younger days summering in Pontelandolfo.  It is a classy event, from the red carpet, the film stars attending, the beautifully appointed stage, to the well dressed folks sitting in the cordoned off area.  We got there a tad late and sat in the back behind the incredibly well dressed Antonetta.  She had on a fabulous long silky blue gown and dingle dangle sparkly jewelry.  How did I know her name was Antonetta?  Her pals got there later than we did and during a film bellowed ANTONETTA.  She leaped from her seat and five dapperly dressed donne chatted in the aisle next to us.  My evil eye and shushing had no effect.  Of course the young ushers also occiasionaly chit chatted in the aisle.  Jack said I am the only one it bothers and I should get over it – do you sense a “get over it” theme here?  This is not the only time chatty chicks bothered the hell out of me.  The first time I got so insensed I asked them to be quiet – the performers deserved respect.  Who were the performers?  Primary school kids! The moms in the audience felt compelled to share their shopping lists, lover’s names and whatever was on their minds  throughout the performance.   The only time they were quiet was when they were snapping pictures of their own kid on stage.  Che fa!  Is freedom of speech whenever and wherever you want to talk a good thing or a not so good thing?  You decide.

What Time Does It Start?

The producer/director in me gnashes teeth and is ready to kill when the advertised time of events are absolutely ignored.  My theory is the lack of timeliness is taught in the elementary school.  Case in point.  A few years back I went to the primary school’s end of  year show.  It was slated to start at 3:00.  Parents who worked left work early to get there by 2:00 to join the non working parents and thier toddlers in line.  Why so early?  Well audience consideration is not taught in the school either – there were not enough seats for all the parents.  People got  there early to grab a seat.  It was a hot June afternoon.  By three, standing outside the school in the sun I was drenched in sweat.  By three-thirty, I was drenched in hate and wondering why the bloody doors hadn’t opened.  We could hear the kids still rehearsing.  Hey teachers, if you don’t have it ready by now give it up.  They let us in at about 3:35.  Everyone scrambled for a seat or wall and the spectacular finally began about ten minutes later. (Don’t get me started on the production values.)  

The team that produces the events in the piazza and/or the acts they hire seem to have lost their watches too.  This year the August festaval headliner, jazzman James Senese was promoted as starting at 10:00.  At 9:30 I’m nagging Jack to get a move on so we can get to the village  before the show starts.  Jack raised an eyebrow and said , “it will start at 11:00.”  We got to the piazza a bit before  10:00 and there wasn’t any crowd.  Sitting at a table at Bar Mixed Fantasy, Jack told me to look behind me.  I did and there sat the roadies for Senese eating sausage sandwhiches at 10:00 PM.  No one was on the stage.  At about 10:45 things started to wake up and crowds started to form in front of the stage.  Somehow they knew  when the show would start.  Son of a witch, Jack was right – the show started at 11:00.  Cripes, maybe I am an Ugly American with my own expectances and Jersey girl angst.  Jack, ever living his theme with me said, ” Midge, this is Italia, get over it.”   I must say, I have never gone to events in Northern Italy – except the opera in Verona and that started about 10 minutes late – so I don’t know if tardieness is just a southern thing or universal.   In the scheme of life does timeliness really matter?  Is timeliness – or the lack thereof – a good thing or a not so good thing? You decide.

Those of you who live in or visit Italy or simply have an opinion – please join the conversation.  You decide!

Ci vediamo .  Thanks for listening.

Forum Giovani – The Young Producers

Forum Giovani

Over the years I watched the young people of Potelandolfo produce theatrical events, calcio tournaments, festas and more.  I knew there was something called Forum Giovani but I didn’t really get what it was.  I’m thinking like Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney – a couple of kids get togther and make stuff happen.  You will not believe this – because it sure doesn’t happen in New Jersey – but the region and or Italia  gives each town a stipend of €2,500 earmarked for Forum Giovani. The teens to early twenty-somethings, that choose to be involved in the group, use this as seed money to produce events.  This is a really good thing!

The forum has a two room office that they use for meetings.  The commune provides the office, computer and furniture.  They only call meetings when they need them. Smart huh – no mandatory monthly BS.  Now, just what do these kids do with that money???

You conservatives out there need to stop thinking of it as a socialisitic handout.  The money is used for administrative overhead – paper, pens, ink for the printer, light bulbs etc. It really is seed money – watch those dollars and young entrepreneurs grow.  Having the administrative bills paid for all their energy goes into raising capital for events. A prime example is the Beer Festival that was organized and produced by Forum Giovani Pontelandolfo.

In order to produce a large community wide event, the kids had to develop and demonstrate a good arts administration skill set.  I know about that stuff – I did it and taught it.  These kids learned experientially, which to my mind is the absolute best way.

Here’s what this professoressa obserserved – the kids had the ability to:

  1. Raise adequate funds to underwrite the event by approaching and acquiring 20 sponsors.  Not an easy feat during the South’s economic crisis.  Ask and you shall receive – Fundraising 101. Thank you to all of the sponsors.
  2. Design and destribute great marketing material – the uber talented Valerio Mancini did the art work.  We know it worked because the place was packed.
  3. Negotiate with venders – some of whom were sponsors – for great deals on beer, sausages and all the trimmings. Set prices to cover costs and create a profit center.
  4. Rent a stage and organize the set up of the lights and sound. It helps that one of the areas largest tech theater companies is owned by a Pontelandolfese!
  5. Set up Ex-calcetto Nero ( a big open space) to insure that there were enough tables and refreshment stations.  All borrowed from Pro Loco Santa Croce – networking really works.
  6. Create two nights worth of activities and entertainment.  They hired the home town favorite – Ri Ualanegli – the dance company is huge and has a huge following. Night two featured The Dish Rock Band – also local and with a following. PR 101 –  hire groups with lots of performers and/following – guaranteed audience that buys your beer and sausages.
  7. Handle budgeting and fiscal accountablity – note there was never just one person by the money boxes.  Which was kind of cute as one person took money and the second gave you your beer or food tickets.  Well the boys were cute – the wait while they tore the tickets not so cute.

Was it all wonderful – nah they forgot to precook sausages and the wait for a sausage sandwhich was a three beer wait. – Hmmm – maybe that was the plan.  Also, they didn’t organize traffic well by the food and drink.  Did they learn – you bet.

But enough of my academic chatter – lets see what they have to say.

❤️❤️Marilina e Elio’s Festa❤️❤️

  
    💕Elio and Marilina – Auguri!💕

Music, not fruits and vegetables, filled the Pontelandolfo covered outdoor market. Bar Elimar’s Marilina and Elio are getting married!  They invited customers, family and Pontelandolfo pals to help them pre-celebrate. Disco lights, a band, tables, chairs, enough food to fill millions, and friendly faces transformed the market into the hottest club in town and made this one night to remember.

  
Words can’t capture the sounds of the night. The band played everything from traditional Italian to Latin to rock-and-roll. The father of the groom sang. The aunt of the groom sang. Local guys leapt up to the stage and sang. And all the voices were welcomed with cheers from the crowd. 

Everyone was dancing from toddlers to octogenarians. That’s one of the things I love about village life.  Everyone participated. Even I got up and gave it a shake or three. 

  

💞💞 Thank you, Marilina for inviting us. 💞💞

The Address is Right – Why Can’t They Find Me?

We rent a great apartment, one house away from the cemetery – now that is a great land mark – right?  Why couldn’t the UPS guy find us? How about this – our landlord’s family has owned this house for generations and we always include his name in our address but still the mail never finds me.  Is it because I am a middle aged woman – actually a wee bit more than middle aged and I’m freaking invisible?

I knew I was invisible in the United States.  How many times have I been ignored at a bar waiting to order a drink?  Enough that I had to bellow – “bar keep – invisible woman here.”  But to be invisible in Italy is putting me over the edge.
Last year was the first time we discovered I was invisible here.  My “codice fiscale” – like a social security number that you need to buy anything big or do any large financial transactions – was sent to me, in care of our landlord, at our address.  Where did it end up?  About a mile up the road at a family of Guerreras.  They called my cousin Carmella – whose mom is a Guerrera – and asked who Margaret Ann was?  Carmella’s husband went and got the letter and delivered my mail to me.  Thank God it is a small town.  The postman refused to believe that a Guerrera could live where we live.  I guess he never saw me when I said hello at the end of the driveway.

This year we sent three larges boxes of stuff – important stuff that we wanted in the apartment – like my grandmother’s cast iron griddle and winter coats.  The saga of the boxes is another story – but for now just know that even though the boxes were addressed to me, in care of my landlord at his address they were delivered to my cousin’s mother!  Mario, Carmella’s husband, guided the big truck back up the street to us.  Che fa?!

Yesterday was the tip of the iceberg – I am going to call Harry Potter and see if he can conjure up some anti-invisible cream.  I ordered a part from Apple Italia – that’s another story too.  It was coming via UPS.  The driver texted me that morning – a nice touch.  I replied the house was very close to the cemetery and my landlord’s name was on the gate.  That afternoon, he called and said I can’t find the house.  “Where are you?” I asked.  “By the funeral agency,” he replied. What?  I texted cemetery????   “But where are you,” he whined, “which house?”

I told him I would  meet him at the cemetery – it is the only bloody one in town.   After walking down to the front gate – it took all of 3 minutes – I waited in the shade of a mausoleum.  Where is he?  The truck passed me – I was the only person standing in the street in front of the cemetary.  I am invisible.

Rather than leave you on such a sad note, he did turn around, smile whimsically as only a twenty-something Italian hunk a bunk can and give me my package.

Can you see me?????

Young Entrepreneurs – Arochiosco

We read about it, hear the stories and see young people with advanced degrees in architecture, engineering, and literature sitting in the piazza bar letting the days pass them by.  The economic crisis that has racked Italy has had a profound effect on young people.  If one lives in a little village like Pontelandolfo and loves living here than finding a job is nigh impossible.  This is southern Italy – it doesn’t have the manufacturing found in the north.  Nor, does it appear to have regional governments that do something about the problem.  What’s a young person to do?  Sit and stare?  Polish your friends nails while slowing sipping your €.80 bicchiere di prosecco in the bar?  After university, some twenty-five to thirty-five year olds do just that.  Others like Elena Baldini and Jean Luca Diglio create their own prosperity!

Bar Elena

I wanted to call this story “Entrepreneurial Elena” but alliteration seemed just a wee bit lighthearted for what I hope will be a series on the young entrepreneurs who are making their own employment opportunities.  Architect, Elena Baldini – who I did first meet years ago in Bar Mixed Fantasy – has the passion and drive to be successful at whatever she puts her mind to.  Last summer, she joined forces with Gianluca Diglio – who grew up in an entrepreneurial family – get his family’s back story here – http://wp.me/p3rc2m-fd.

They created Arochiosco, a neat summer time bar perched on the side of a mountain.  Found in Morcone’s Piazza M. Giuseppe Manente, the charming outdoor space features wooden gazebos with a birds eye view of Pontelandolfo, Lago Campolattaro and incredible valleys.  Sitting there was like sitting in a magical tree house.  Last summer, Jack and I originally went to Arochiosco to be supportive of the two young Pontelandolfesi.  It was so delightful, we went back just to go back.  Sitting there writing, I was reminded of afternoons spent in Fieosole – sipping prosecco and staring out over the rooftops of Firenze.  There was one HUGE difference – price point and lack of tourists!  For €3 we got a bag of chips, bowl of nuts, Campari Soda and white wine.  We also got to sit comfortably and watch the river of life that flows through Morcone.

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Gianluca

Wait a minute?  How could two kids start a bar?  That takes cash for inventory, tables, chairs – who built the wooden structures? What is the real back story here?  Well folks – networking 101!  There is a bar in Morcone – directly across the street from the piazza.  The owner after talking to Elena and Gianluca made an offer that the two hardworking youngsters couldn’t refuse.  Network?  Si!  The owner was the uncle of Gianluca’s wife and he often thought of expanding to outdoor tables on the piazza.  Since his bar was a one person shop, he couldn’t do it.  Gianluca alone couldn’t help him but the incomparable duo – Gianluca and Elena could and did.

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Elena

Elena had the bar experience – having bar tended and Jean Luca had the contact.  They worked out a percentage deal – did the hard work and created great seasonal jobs.  Networking 101!

Arochiosco open again this summer.  We will be there.  I applaud their drive and ability.  I also applaud the other young people of Pontelandolfo who are creating their own futures.  Congratulazioni!

Corpus Domini Needs Your Explanations!

Baptized Lutheran and raised in the Dutch Reformed Church, I am not well versed in Catholic Liturgical ritual – I need you and your comments to round this out for me.  What!? You said – how could this nice Italian girl not be Catholic?  Mio nonno refused to let anyone go to the Catholic Church because the priest was boinking the area wives.  Grandpa conducted mass in the house!    Enough about me, let’s talk about Corpus Domini!  it was 9:00 PM and the sounds of bombs bursting in the air still surrounded us.  No need to duck and cover this is the end of the Corpus Domini Processione.  Hundreds of Pontelandolfese went to mass at 6:00 PM and at 7:20 started processing through the hilly streets –  stopping at small alters around the town.

Alter

Thanks to http://www.duomofirenze.it/feste/corpusdomini_eng.htm:

Every year, sixty days after Easter, the Church celebrates “Corpus Domini”: a religious solemnity in honor of the Eucharist (the ‘body’ – corpus – of Christ in the sacramental sign of bread): an observance that first developed in Italy the thirteenth century and in 1263 was extended by Pope Urban IV to all of Christian Europe. In Florence as elsewhere, from that period the feast has been celebrated in solemn fashion, with a majestic procession in which the Eucharistic bread is borne through the city streets in a glass container know as a ‘monstrance’, which allows people to see the consecrated bread wafer. This procession acquired ever greater importance with the passage of time.

Here is what I saw that was so interesting – these are the rituals I want you to talk about!!

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Note the Satin Drapes.

1. Driving down to the piazza we saw women hanging out what looked like their best lace tablecloths, satin bedspreads, fancy linen sheets etc.  Check out the first photo – see some on the right.  These things were waving like banners in the wind. At first we thought it was laundry but Jack remembered reading that when Henry the 8th came to a village everyone had to hang out their best fabrics to honor his coming.  In Bar Elimar I asked our friend Gennaio why the piazza was festooned with lace and he said it was an ancient ritual to celebrate the king – in this case Jesus.  What do you know???

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Flowers on EVERY Street Light, Column, Pole.

2. We also saw that yellow wild flowers were tied in bunches on every single upright thing leading into town.  Wild flowers – yellow – ANY IDEAS?  This morning I asked my favorite barista, Marilina, and she said because they are wild and always in bloom this time of year.  That makes them free.  What is YOUR TAKE??

3. All of the children who last week celebrated their first communion were leading the procession.  The boys were tossing rose petals and the girls were sporting flower crowns and looked like the promised vestal virgins.  Since this event celebrates communion it makes sense that the children were involved – but how come the tossed flower petals????    4. Are exterior alters set up in American towns?  A big one was set up in front of the cemetery – which I thought made sense – tombs – rising up – celebration of second coming etc.  Is the cemetery always part of the procession?

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This is outside the cemetery.

5. Is this celebrated in the USA with processions etc?  Are there the sounds of bombs bursting and fireworks?? Today’s regional newspapers were full of pictures and stories of the processions in towns all over Compania.

Come on folks – fill in the blanks for me and everyone else that doesn’t know.  Let us have popping comment conversations.  THE FIRST PERSON TO POST A COMMENT GETS A BIG VIRTUAL HUG FROM ME!

Just Another Thursday in Casalduni!

  

One of the questions I get most often is, “Midge but what do you do in a small mountain town?”  Often we head down the hill to Casalduni, a neighboring village. Since the brilliant and progressive mayor, Pasquale Iacovella, is a relative we’re kept in the Casalduni festa loop. 

This particular Thursday we celebrate Saint Rita, the maker of miracles. Tonight is the vigil. People will be in church most of the night. The formal Saint’s Day procession is on Friday .

  
Music rained over the piazza. Old fashioned rock and roll – a great equalizer – had me embarrassing Jack with my bopping down the street. 

What’s a festa without food. The trucks sold porchetta, candy, panini and more. Muso di Vitello – snout of veal – is served with fresh lemon. There was a line!

The kids enjoy the festa the most. This was a school night and children unencumbered by mommy’s hand raced through the streets in little packs. Kids in Italy don’t go to bed at 7 o’clock or even 8 o’clock on a school night they’re not asleep before 10 or 11. I think that this is the early training that they get to be able to live La Dolce Vita. Th small park full of rides that scared the begeesus out of me was an instant draw for the elementary school set. 

  
We got home at midnight. Yawn. I need to get back in training for the late night happenings of small mountain towns. It was just another Thursday…

This post was written on the WordPress iPhone application. I’m not sure how it will read on a regular computer. So let me know if this fast and easy format for instant reporting works.