Corpus Domini Needs Your Explanations!

Baptized Lutheran and raised in the Dutch Reformed Church, I am not well versed in Catholic Liturgical ritual – I need you and your comments to round this out for me.  What!? You said – how could this nice Italian girl not be Catholic?  Mio nonno refused to let anyone go to the Catholic Church because the priest was boinking the area wives.  Grandpa conducted mass in the house!    Enough about me, let’s talk about Corpus Domini!  it was 9:00 PM and the sounds of bombs bursting in the air still surrounded us.  No need to duck and cover this is the end of the Corpus Domini Processione.  Hundreds of Pontelandolfese went to mass at 6:00 PM and at 7:20 started processing through the hilly streets –  stopping at small alters around the town.

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Thanks to http://www.duomofirenze.it/feste/corpusdomini_eng.htm:

Every year, sixty days after Easter, the Church celebrates “Corpus Domini”: a religious solemnity in honor of the Eucharist (the ‘body’ – corpus – of Christ in the sacramental sign of bread): an observance that first developed in Italy the thirteenth century and in 1263 was extended by Pope Urban IV to all of Christian Europe. In Florence as elsewhere, from that period the feast has been celebrated in solemn fashion, with a majestic procession in which the Eucharistic bread is borne through the city streets in a glass container know as a ‘monstrance’, which allows people to see the consecrated bread wafer. This procession acquired ever greater importance with the passage of time.

Here is what I saw that was so interesting – these are the rituals I want you to talk about!!

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Note the Satin Drapes.

1. Driving down to the piazza we saw women hanging out what looked like their best lace tablecloths, satin bedspreads, fancy linen sheets etc.  Check out the first photo – see some on the right.  These things were waving like banners in the wind. At first we thought it was laundry but Jack remembered reading that when Henry the 8th came to a village everyone had to hang out their best fabrics to honor his coming.  In Bar Elimar I asked our friend Gennaio why the piazza was festooned with lace and he said it was an ancient ritual to celebrate the king – in this case Jesus.  What do you know???

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Flowers on EVERY Street Light, Column, Pole.

2. We also saw that yellow wild flowers were tied in bunches on every single upright thing leading into town.  Wild flowers – yellow – ANY IDEAS?  This morning I asked my favorite barista, Marilina, and she said because they are wild and always in bloom this time of year.  That makes them free.  What is YOUR TAKE??

3. All of the children who last week celebrated their first communion were leading the procession.  The boys were tossing rose petals and the girls were sporting flower crowns and looked like the promised vestal virgins.  Since this event celebrates communion it makes sense that the children were involved – but how come the tossed flower petals????    4. Are exterior alters set up in American towns?  A big one was set up in front of the cemetery – which I thought made sense – tombs – rising up – celebration of second coming etc.  Is the cemetery always part of the procession?

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This is outside the cemetery.

5. Is this celebrated in the USA with processions etc?  Are there the sounds of bombs bursting and fireworks?? Today’s regional newspapers were full of pictures and stories of the processions in towns all over Compania.

Come on folks – fill in the blanks for me and everyone else that doesn’t know.  Let us have popping comment conversations.  THE FIRST PERSON TO POST A COMMENT GETS A BIG VIRTUAL HUG FROM ME!

Just Another Thursday in Casalduni!

  

One of the questions I get most often is, “Midge but what do you do in a small mountain town?”  Often we head down the hill to Casalduni, a neighboring village. Since the brilliant and progressive mayor, Pasquale Iacovella, is a relative we’re kept in the Casalduni festa loop. 

This particular Thursday we celebrate Saint Rita, the maker of miracles. Tonight is the vigil. People will be in church most of the night. The formal Saint’s Day procession is on Friday .

  
Music rained over the piazza. Old fashioned rock and roll – a great equalizer – had me embarrassing Jack with my bopping down the street. 

What’s a festa without food. The trucks sold porchetta, candy, panini and more. Muso di Vitello – snout of veal – is served with fresh lemon. There was a line!

The kids enjoy the festa the most. This was a school night and children unencumbered by mommy’s hand raced through the streets in little packs. Kids in Italy don’t go to bed at 7 o’clock or even 8 o’clock on a school night they’re not asleep before 10 or 11. I think that this is the early training that they get to be able to live La Dolce Vita. Th small park full of rides that scared the begeesus out of me was an instant draw for the elementary school set. 

  
We got home at midnight. Yawn. I need to get back in training for the late night happenings of small mountain towns. It was just another Thursday…

This post was written on the WordPress iPhone application. I’m not sure how it will read on a regular computer. So let me know if this fast and easy format for instant reporting works.

Dott. Pasquale Palumbo

This past December I got smacked with a bizarre malady – perpetual dizziness.  Now, I know that I have been called a “dizzy broad” but this was terrible.  A hospital admission, followed by the alphabet list of tests and the mystery dizziness continues.  Leaving the hospital they told me to see my Primary Care Physician.  So I called my PCP and the gatekeeper said “We can see you in 10 days.”  Ten days?!  Are you f’n kidding me. I’m dizzy today.

I may be dizzy but during this insanity I saw clearly one of the differences between health care in Pontelandolfo and New Jersey.  Need to see my Primary Care Physician in Pontelandolfo – no appointment necessary!  Right, NO waiting ten days after a hospital stay to see your PCP – just walk in!

There are other parts of the Italian Health Care system that may not be so easy to wrangle – we’ll save those stories for another day.  Today, I want to talk about Dottore Pasquale Palumbo.

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HIs studio medico is on the third floor of Piazza Roma 1 – correct, there is no elevator.  I know what you’re thinking.  How the hell is a doctor whose office on the third floor of a ancient building with no elevator accessible?  HE MAKES HOUSE CALLS!  Remember those?  When I was a wee one – when the dinosaurs roamed the earth – Doc Husted came to the house.  Now you need a concierge doctor on retainer if you want that.  In Pontelandolfo, the charming Dottore Palumbo regularly visits his patients in their homes.  The first time we met him he was visiting our landlady – he pops in to check her blood pressure.  He recognized Jack and said – “I know you, you’re the crazy man who walks at noon – walk earlier.”  Every time I see him, he reminds me to tell Jack to walk before noon.

When I first got accepted into the Italian Health Care System, the administrator  at the Azienda Sanitaria Locale asked me to be honest and tell them whenever I was leaving the country.  That way, no practitioner would be paid for me when I wasn’t in the country.  Apparently, there are folks on the list who immigrated and never took themselves off the list – what a lousy thing to do.   Pontelandolfo is part of the Distretto Sanitario Benevento Nord-Est – Morcone  ASL and I made sure to stop by and tell them we were heading to the USA.

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 Dottore Palumbo practices Medico generico.  Since he is in our home town, I picked him as my general practitioner.  That means, I’m on his list as a patient and he gets paid regularly for me.  He is my primary care physician.

My first visit to Dottore Palumbo had me huffing and puffing up those three flights.  When I got to the top and looked at the view, I raised my victory fist in the air.  The steps are a great free cardio workout!

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Yoo Hoo Can You See Me Up Here?

When you go through the door to the office, the most noticeable thing is the absence of staff.  There is no receptionist, no nurse, no billing department – niente!  What a great way to cut those costs.  I walked into the waiting room, looked at who sat waiting in the chairs and knew I went after them.  An elderly gentleman peeked in the room and said, Chi è il prossimo?  The next person went in – we didn’t need a receptionist.  When it was my turn,  I proudly walked in and gave him my new Tessera Sanitaria.

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My Tessera Sanitaria and Codice Fiscal.  Health Care and Social Security Cards

Dotter Palumbo didn’t ask me my name, he knew who I was – this is a very small village –  asked me about my cousins, husband and myself.  Pulled my new record up on his laptop and asked me why I was there.  Bronchitis.  After the exam he gave me my ricetta. No euro changed hands.  I will not be billed – visits are part of the health care system. 

I walked down the stairs across the piazza to la farmacia  and got my drugs. ( Here’s the link to a pharmacy story – http://wp.me/p3rc2m-bh)   When patients call Dottore Palumbo for refills he writes the prescriptions and when he goes home for lunch, he carries them across the piazza himself.

He is a great man and everyone loves him.  What is not to love, a doctor who comes to your house, has great office hours and is always smiling.  Now, I don’t want to be sick, but when I get back to town I will be sure to stop by and bring the good doctor a caffè.

(TRUTH TIME – when the gatekeeper in NJ told me it would be ten days before I could see my PCP after a wretched time in the hospital I promptly hung up.  Having learned how to work the medical system, I called back, hacked into the phone, talked through my nose, coughed repeatedly and got in the next day.)

Feeling like a Queen at Queensley Country Resort

I was staring out my dining room window this morning and thought, how magical the snow covered trees look – like the setting for a Russian love story.  Then I walked outside the door to smell the clean winter air – it’s freakin’ freezing.  Dashing back into the house I knew I had to think summer thoughts.

Winter blahs getting to you too?  Tired of snow, sleet and brr?  Take a breath – close your eyes – NO – I mean pretend you’re closing your eyes.  Imagine sitting in the bottom of a salad bowl and looking up at every color green in the spectrum. Green to the right of you. Lighter green to the left of you. Cascading greens floating down the side. That is what it feels like to be floating in the pool on a hot summer day at Queensley Country Resort in Morcone (BN).  Ahhhhhhhh.

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When one of my Pontelondolfesi pals told me about the swimming pool in Morcone, I thought they were exaggerating about how gorgeous it was. We are in the hills of Southern Italy – not on the Amalfi Coast at a swank resort. Under duress, I took a ride one afternoon to see this really “elegant” swimming hole. Yawn, could we go for gelato yet? We road around the whirly gigs of hill roads, came to a tired sign and made a left up the longish driveway. Holy Shit! How did I get to the Beverly Hills Hilton? Were we beamed up to some super chic spa in Tuscany?

No my friends you can find this ten minutes from our little village –

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Private Spots with a Great View!

Ten euros gives you a full day of feeling like a princess.  The price include a lettino – a lounge chair.  It is more to reserve the Prive Bellavista – 4 spots for 100€.  The club like resort opens from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM.  The youngsters tell me it is open at night for the restaurant, bar and general partying. In July they had a Toga Party – free admission with a DJ!  It started at 10:00 PM.  We never made it.

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My first trip was with my worldly London-living niece, Alessandra Rosaria,  she quickly grabbed up one of the brown circular lounges, globbed on the sun screen and declared she had found sunbathing heaven.  That day, not knowing what to expect, we packed our lunch and dragged bottles of water.  We noticed the more urbane folks getting incredible looking sandwiches getting delivered to them – wait – this place has a restaurant?  Yup – to eat at the restaurant one needs a reservation.

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Caffè or Campari????

To munch pool side you can order food from the “bar” – even caffè, campari soda and all the wonderful drinks that go to my italo-americana brain.  The locals tell me that the restaurant is top drawer – of course one goes for dinner at 9 or 10.  We vow to nap one day next trip and try the restaurant out.

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Elegant outdoor dining.

We did see people shedding bathing suits for dressier attire and lunching here.

Perhaps someday I’ll drag a bag with a breezy summer dress and change for lunch….  One visit, we ordered panini from the bar.  They were huge and OK but for a scant 1€ in Pontelandolfo we could have gotten the same thing to go.  We decided to buy our lunches to go for the next visits.  Still, of course, availing ourselves of the Queensely Bar.

The folks that we saw poolside were a mixture of working class woman with a day off – we met a few from a local factory, moms with their children – though the price point makes that difficult for most, Americans visiting their families and lots of gorgeous young men and women.  I particularly loved watching the gorgeous young men oiling themselves.  Whew it got hotter.

When by BFF, Janet, came to visit she instantly chatted up everyone and discovered folks I didn’t know from Pontelandolfo.  Other days I bumped into my English students and women from town.  This is the place to ward off the heat of summer and luxuriate in surroundings found in tonier towns.  I am so glad I was introduced to Queensley Country Resort.

Here is their Facebook page: www.facebook.com/pages/Queensley-Country-Resort/496928613745805

Hmmmm, summer will soon be here.  There now – don’t you feel warmer?

2014 WordPress Report – Interesting

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2014 annual report for Nonna’s Mulberry Tree.  Who knew!?!?  I thought it was interesting and those of you who are number crunchers may find it amusing!

Here’s an excerpt:

 (These are WordPress’ words  – I swear.)

A New York City subway train holds 1,200 people. This blog was viewed about 6,700 times in 2014. If it were a NYC subway train, it would take about 6 trips to carry that many people.

The busiest day of the year was August 29th with 127 views. The most popular post that day was I See My Father.

Your most commented on post in 2014 was Learning Italian in Sardegna – Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera.

How did folks find us?  

(Thank you for clicking on these links!)

Where did readers come from?

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89 countries in all!
Most visitors came from The United States. Italy & Brazil were not far behind.

Thank you for being a part of my blogosphere.  

You make it easy for me to tell my tales.  Grazie Tante.

Felice Anno Nuovo!  

See you in 2015!

Buon Natale! Felice Anno Nuovo! Auguri!

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Poor Babbo Natale – Some Kids Never Grow Up!

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Vi auguriamo un Natale pieno di amore, pace e felicità.

               We wish you a Christmas filled with love, peace and happiness.

Buone Feste e un felice Anno Nuovo!

                                 Happy Celebrations and a happy New Year!

Con i migliori auguri,

Midge & Jack

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Alla tua salute!

Thank you for being the best subscribers a blogger could ever want.  I look forward to hearing each and every one of your comments as 2015 continues our adventure.

Love,

Midge

Christmas Menu – Franco Perugini’s Savory Porchetta

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Perugini Franco Macelleria – A Yummy Place to Shop

Hey Babbo Natale – Listen up La Befana – All I want for Christmas is…..

My God, my God, I kept repeating as I slowly slid more into my mouth.  Every part of my being was tingling with the sensation.  I groaned and stared at the ceiling.  Everyone in the macelleria looked at me like I was crazy, had sprouted a second head and would soon be banished to hell.  Nicla, whispered to her father the butcher,  Lei ha detto, “il mio dio.”

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Franco Perugini – Master of Porchetta

This incredible taste bud experience was literally the best one I had during the frenetic August Festa di San Donato.  San Donato had blessed me by sending me into Perugini Franco Macelleria and introducing  my taste buds to this heavenly porchetta made in Pontelandolfo (BN).   Now, as I think about Christmas dinner, I don’t lust for goose, I don’t lust for beef, I want porchetta!!!!  Oh, you’re wondering, what the heck is porchetta?

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No I Never Bought the Whole One!  I Wish I Did.

It is a boneless loin of pork that has been butterflied – cut in half so it opens like a book – filled with a herb mixture, wrapped in pork belly – skin side out and meat side seasoned- rolled like a log and tied with string.  I think Franco also seasons the outside.  It is roasted at a high heat and the outside gets crispy while the inside is tender and flavorful.  (Most of what I have tasted at festas and in bars is not.) When it is sliced you see ring inside ring of good tastes.

According to Wkipedia –

 Porchetta has been selected by the Italian Ministero delle Politiche Agricole, Alimentari e Forestali as a prodotto agroalimentare tradizionale(“traditional agricultural-alimentary product”, one of a list of traditional Italian foods held to have cultural relevance).

Now that I have tasted the porchetta made by the Perugini family, I can understand why it is honored as a cultural tradition.  Franco tells me that folks buy it from him and he vacuum packs it to take back to America.  Napolitans, who have weekend houses here, buy it to take back to Naples.  Next time I have a party in Pontelandolfo, I intend to buy one, show it to my guests and not share.

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Nicla Perugini proudly follows in her Dad’s footsteps making incredible pork products.

After discovering this family’s porchetta and sausages, I must admit we ate them often.  The porchetta was great reheated in a covered skillet with barely any water covering the bottom.  We also ate it room temperature on wonderful crusty bread.  The sausages – particularly the hot ones – could be found on our table regularly.

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Next time you are in Italy, I challenge you to try the best porchetta anywhere.  Stop by Perugini Franco Macelleria Moderna,  Via Nazionale Sud, Pontelandolfo (BN).  I wish they had a web site and shipped to to the USA.  If they did, I know what we would be having for Christmas Dinner.

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Cozy Entrance Features Produce

Next year before we head back to the states, I’m getting some vacuum packed to go – a lot of it!

Buon Natale and enjoy whatever you decide to make for Christmas dinner!

PS – send a letter to Babbo Natale – http://www.babbo-natale.it

Have You Missed Me?

OMG – I flew back to the USA one month ago and went AWOL! Not really, I just got off the plane, leaped into the fray and went into culture shock. Let’s turn back the clock….

Restored Stone Italian Home
Arrivederci Pontelandolfo.

Leaving Pontelandolfo is always emotional for me.  I get a little teary eyed as I put the boxes in the storage room.  Life there is  – well – just good for me.  With our suitcases stacked on the terrace, we stuck our thumbs out and hooked a ride with the Sindaco of Casalduni and two of the consigliere. They were headed to Naples for a regional meeting on the windmills. (To remind yourselves why I hate them read – http://wp.me/p3rc2m-pp.)

These bright young men, loaded with data that defines the negative impact windmills have on their town and the towns around them, were preparing for battle.  Riding with them I felt like the fly on the wall as they revisited the travesty that is the green mandate and tweaked their presentation.  At Capodichino they pulled over, yanked our overstuffed bags out of the trunk and sped off to lend their voices to the cause.

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I pulled out my Italian passport at the Alitalia desk and attempted to check in.  Six Months ago, I entered the country on an Italian passport and figured I should let them know I was leaving.  With her heavily shadowed eyes,  the counter attendant looked at me sternly  and snarled where is your visa. Visa. Shit, I wasn’t the clandestino. She wants my visa? “Perche?” USA visa. “Oh, I don’t need one,” and  I whipped out my USA passport.  “Sono cittadina!”  She got nicer and said that she appreciated the fact that I loved my history enough to have both.  Whew. PS, she let my overweight carry-on go with a warning.

Quick leap to Rome. I had forgotten what an incredible mall Leonardo Da Vinci Airport was. It I hadn’t had to show my passport I would have thought I was at the Short Hills Mall or on Rodeo Drive. Gucci, Dolce and Gabana, Burberry, Mont Blanc…

Women with mid-western twangs sat behind me at the gate.  Here is what I listened to —

Sicily – whadda ya think?

It was Ok but there wasn’t anything you know, cute.   The shops didn’t have anything I would want. All they have are fish stores and bakeries. There wasn’t any place cute like you know Bed, Bath and Beyond… Would you come back?

Why?  We came once. How about that beach  – you know with the club? What a drop off.  Did you go in?

Yeah but in my bikini – I had to wear ugly swim shoes. Beach has rocks.  Didn’t know it was rocky and …

NO I DID NOT BLATHER AT THEM OR STAB MYSELF WITH A PEN.  I did think  – Open your bloody eyes bitches! I didn’t even turn around to see how old they were.   Well, yeah I did – Shit my age…

We love Alitalia for its Premium Economy. Cost less than First Class,  the seats are comido and it is a great bargain using air miles.

Landed at JFK on a Thursday night and hit the tarmac running.  The next morning I was meeting with the caterer and facilities manager for the the Hillsborough Jr. High 50th Reunion – scheduled for a week later.

Price point culture shock set in almost instantly.  I ordered a cappuccino and the barista said $4.75 – what the f**k – I have been paying .90 in the land of the cappuccino.

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Enough.  I’m back.  The blog is back.  You’re back.  Life is good.  Ci vediamo!