And Then It Rained

This past summer crops withered on the vines for lack of water. The olives were the size of olive pits. The only happy farmers
were vintners – I learned that grapes don’t need tons of water to grow and the wine they make tastes great. The ground around our house was literally splitting. Small chasms appeared in the ground. I was beginning to feel like we were living in the dessert not the verdant hills of Campania.

We headed to Sardegna for a two week crash immersion class in Italian at Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera and left the drought behind us. Taking classes and organizing activities for Nonna’s Mulberry Tree’s first group activity didn’t leave me a lot of time to play on Facebook or even read one of the newspapers from Benevento. It wasn’t until we were packing up to leave that I discovered it had finally rained in the province of Benevento.

And when it rained, it rained and rained for over 24 hours. It started Wednesday, 14th of October and didn’t end until almost Friday morning. This was not your happy “I’m singing in the rain” rain but a deluge that wiped out railroad lines, sent mud slides and rock avalanches down the hills into the center of towns, and caused floods that led to deaths. In our over televised and I think desensitized media watching world, it is one thing to see the video of cars floating in streets and another to actually see, smell and feel the devastation.
Having heard from our best friend, Nicola, how bad it was for others and how we were spared. I wasn’t afraid to head for home. Potelandolfo was only without electricity for two days. Other towns are still without. Today, 20 Ottobre, our water is brown. They are flushing the pipes. Other towns do not have any water. Our house and the village center are positioned on the hill in such a way that we didn’t get hit with any mudslides or rocks. 

The periphery of Pontelandolfo wasn’t so lucky. Roads in the outlying contrada washed out and mud found its way where no one wanted it. Neighboring Casalduni was underwater and mud. The roads are still impassable. Casalduni citizens are without electricity, water and the ability to leave. The dedicated mayor, Pasquale Iacovella, has been going in and out via tractor to get things organized and solicit help from the government. Ponte, further down the mountain, has piles of rocks in its streets. Benevento, our provincial capital, was underwater and people died. The state was rebuilding a bridge on the highway between Campobasso and Benevento. I don’t think they will finish anytime soon. The bridge and highway were destroyed. 

Solopaca is home to some of the areas best and largest wine cooperative cantinas. Before we left we saw the parade of farmers bringing grapes to be processed into Falanghina Del Sannio DOP and Algianico DOP. Now the cantinas are ruined. The equipment was under mud and water and the grapes that weren’t harvested are a soggy history. The loss of income for so many people is incredible. Rummo, a pasta manufacture in Benevento was obliterated – that means until they rebuild the jobs are gone too.  # Save Rummo is the social media campaign started by the company and its employees.
Our personal confrontation was nothing compared to the devastation around us. We figured getting home might be a challenge. Trenitalia sent us an e-mail saying our train from Roma to Benevento could only go as far as Caserta. Gulp. We weren’t sure how we would get back to Pontelandolfo but we were going to try. After the 45 minute flight from Alghero to Roma, we began our day long journey home. I went to the information kiosk at the train station ad asked if we should try to go to Boiano – not a good idea. OK, how do we get out of Caserta? “We will have buses to Benevento.” We took a train to Caserta and were herded with those going beyond Benevento to Lecce onto a convoy of 8 giant buses. There was not a place for carry on bags and the undercarriage luggage spot was jammed packed. The bus ride seemed endless. All interior roads were avoided. It seemed like we were going from highway to highway in an endless circle. Eventually, we made it to the Benevento train station where Nicola was waiting for us.
On the slow ride home we travelled roads narrowed to one lane by mud piles on either side. Olive groves were now rock gardens. 

  
Piles of furniture swayed near the street outside of homes. Water was still slowly receding anywhere there was a depression in the ground. Having lived at the Jersey shore and been horrified by the flooding in places close to the sea. We understood how devastating floods could be. What I didn’t understand was how it could flood in the mountains. Now I have seen it.

The elders tell me that they have never seen weather like this or a flood like this. Yup, the weather belts are changing. Global Warming can do that you know.
It started raining again on Monday. That means we have only been with out rain for 2 days since the flooding. I hope it stops soon. No one is singing.

Ci vediamo.

Sandy Beach Fun in an Italian Mountain Town

Brrr, baby it’s cold outside.  The wind is sweeping over the hills, storms are brewing on the coast and I just finished editing a summertime video

This summer a truckload of sand was dumped on an open space in Pontelandolfo. What for, I wondered. Then our house guest, Alana, announced that my cousin Giusy was organizing a team to compete in he Beach Volleyball tournament. Alana would be the only American on a team. What a hoot. Beach volleyball in an Italian mountain village.

I went to a couple of matches and found the enthusiasm contagious.  Check out the video you may  too.

Complementi Pontelandolfo 1861!

Ponte Old

 Sono orgolioso di “Pontelandolfo 1861”!  Bravo!

(I am proud of “Pontelandolfo 1861”! )

I know that is not an attention grabbing first line but, damn, I am so proud of the my little Italian home town’s latest initiative.

With funding  – finanziamente -from the Unione EuropeaFondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: l’Europe investe nelle zone rurali (European Union – investment program for rural areas), Italian Ministero Delle Politiche Agricole Alementari E Forestali (Italy’s Department of Agriculture, Food and Forests) , and the Regione Campania Assessorato Agricoltura (Region’s Department of Agriculture)  – Pontelandolfo is undergoing a renaissance.

Renato Rinaldi of the Pontelandolfo News (Pontelandolfonews.com) made sure I got an invitation to the August 26th –

Presentazione progetto “1861 i luoghi dell’eccidio”

Alla manifestazione di presentazione del progetto “1861 i luoghi dell’eccidio”, progetto integrato per la realizzazione di un itinerario storico-turistico alla scoperta della città martire di Pontelandolfo.  (A presentation of the “1861 places of the massacre”,an integrated project designed to attract historical tourism to the martyred city of Pontelandolfo.)

Renato Rinaldi, who has written a complete history of the period, gave an overview of the history.  He has a great voice and engaging presentation.  After the presentation I asked if he had been an actor.

Prof. Renato Rinaldi, Gabriele Palladino, Sindaco Dott. Gianfranco Rinaldi,  l’artista Riccardo Fortuna

This presentation gave the community an overview of the project that will hopefully give a financial boost to Pontelandolfo.  With funding from all levels of government the historic center of the town is undergoing a much needed facelift. Buildings that have crumbled over the last 1,000 years are being restored, a charming park with a great view was just finished and the town council is committed to bringing tourists back – or perhaps here for the first time.

I know, I know this sounds like the dream and plan of every small Italian town – here is why I am SO PROUD.  Pontelandolfo came up with a very specific and chilling historic hook.  On the 14th of August 1861 the town was destroyed – burned to a crisp.  After being forced from their homes, men, women and children were butchered.  Is that date percolating in your brain?  This was during the not so peaceful march to unify Italy – risorgimento.  What – women and children were murdered?  Yup!  Rebels from San Lupo – folks who were content with their Burbone King –   had hidden in Pontelandolfo and popped out to kill a couple of Garibaldi’s soldiers. General Cialdini was in charge with getting Southern Italy to toe the unification line.  He wasn’t pleased with loosing a few men and sent 500 soldiers to Pontelandolfo and Casalduni with the order not to let a rock remain.  Hey – we are talking farmers here – no hidden weapons of mass destruction.  It was one terrifying and troubling night.  The story plays well – believe me – the underdog – rebels for a just cause etc.  It is quite the hook!  Books have been written about it – the most recent a Fumetto sull’eccidio di Pontelandolfo e Casalduni – graphic novel with great art by Riccardo Fortuna. Riccardofortuna.it. In 2011, the President of Italy actually apologized for the massacre.

Statue

Realizzato dallo scultore Mario Ferrante

Wonderful sculpture representing the horror by Mario Ferrante.

Check out this incredible website – the google offer to translate pops up – Pontelandolfo1861.  I hope they continue to grow this site and add more information for tourists – in a variety of languages.

During the presentation we heard from il sindaco Gianfranco Rinaldi – the mayor.   He announced that this was a two pronged program.  First the centro storico would be rehabbed, the website completed and signage describing the medieval history of the town and the night of terror would be placed around the town.  They also printed two pamphlets to describe the towns  history.  They are slick and I hope they will let me help create a set in English.  The art work on the large signs is wonderful and I am sure the Italian descriptions are perfect.  The English translations need some revision.

 Signs at worksites are popping up all over. Thanks EU!

The second phase is to attract tourists to come.  I am not sure how they plan to do that but hope they include an italo-americano in the strategy session.

SO PROUD!!!

Home Made Grape Juice – Better Than Welch’s!

We all know the adage – when the world hands you lemons, make lemonade.  How about when the world hands you crates of grapes? The grapes I’m talking about aren’t wine grapes. These are the yummy off the vine eating grapes. Zia Vittoria brought us some direct from the vine to taste. 

  
 They were super yummy and I thanked her profusely.  The next day a crate of them appeared.  I know, I know be careful what you wish for. Even though we had a house guest, I knew there was no way we could eat all those grapes. What’s a woman to do?  Where the world hands you …

First stop, the internet – grape juice recipes.  Nah, we don’t add sugar to anything. Next. Nah, I’m not going to upstate NY for Concord grapes. Next.  How about asking around town? First folks looked at me like I was crazy – they’re fresh, eat the grapes.  Then a wise woman said, smash, boil, strain.  Damn, I can do that and I did – delicious and tons better than Welch’s.

Here is the recipe – since the only ingredient is grapes it’s more like steps.

1. Pick grapes that no one has sprayed cocky poopy chemicals on or genetically modified.  You are wrong you naysayer you, produce like that is still out there.  Here in the no spray land of good eating we have lots of grapes “au naturel.” They can also be found in the backyards of any of your relatives who sit in the shade of the vines growing over the trellis.  Take scissors with you and pick bunches.

2. Fill the sink with water and toss them in and swirl them around.

  
3 Put them in a scuolapasta and drain them. Notice the little worms and buggy things running around.  They seem to come to life in the water. Ditch them and remember no spray means happy bugs.

4. Hold each bunch by the stem and pick off the grapes.  I then tossed them in a second colander. We don’t want the ones the birds pecked or the shriveled ones. Just toss in the firm ones. I even tossed on the tiny ones.

5. Rinse off the grapes and dump them in a big pot. Take your potato masher and mash the hell out of them.  I didn’t have a potato masher and had a Lucille Ball fun time.  Not my feet – my hands!  I pummeled and squished and pounded and squashed.  Juice squirted me the pot and the counter.  I finally broke down and bought a potato masher and tried to use it for the second batch of juice.  It was easier to use my hands and much more pleasurable.

  
6. DO NOT add anything!  Put the covered pot on the stove over a low flame until it starts to boil.  Then simmer it while you have a glass of wine and gossip with a pal. I of course forgot about it and think it simmered for 15 minutes plus a bit.

7. Take something heavy and squish some more – it is easier to squash hot grapes.  The second time I did this I used a newly purchased potato masher to do the second squash.

8. Simmer until you are bored – I think I did it for another 5-10 minutes.

9. Line a colander with cheese cloth and set it over a big bowl or pot.  I couldn’t find cheese cloth here and tried a bunch of places.  My ever creative and brilliant cousin Carmella suggested gauze from the pharmacy.  They had sterile gauze and it worked.

10. Pour the batch of grapes in the colander and cover the colander with a towel or something while it drips for a few hours.  No, you must really cover the colander – why?  Flies love piles of icky sweet stuff.  After a few hours – how many?  Well, we went to the piazza for drinks, chatted with friends, had dinner then I remembered the grapes.  Quite a few hours later, I picked up the edges of the gauze and squeezed the rest of the juice out of the cooked grapes.  Yes, I used my hands again to twist the fabric – like wringing out clothes – and squeezed out every drop.

11. Pour the yummy juice in bottles, refrigerate and drink.  We tried it the next morning and couldn’t believe how good it tasted.  Hmmm  Hmmm Good!

Happy Grape Juicing!

Bank of America Fees Take A Big Bite Out of Vacations.

My advice – if you are going to Europe anytime soon –  don’t leave home with a Bank of America card in your wallet.

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In the spirit of openness and full disclosure I must say that I own stock in Bank of America – it is in the toilette but I still own it.  That said, I do not use any Bank of America products – and based on these two harrowing tales, I’m glad I don’t.  All the Bank of America fees that I talk about – and I will really bitch about them – can be checked at https://www.bankofamerica.com/deposits/resources/personal-schedule-fees.go

Tale 1:  Maryellen Mistakingly Trusts Local Bank of America Personnel.

Before she crossed the Atlantic and started her exploration of Rome and Pontelandolfo, my cousin did everything right.  She went to her local Bank of America branch and explained she was going to Italy for two weeks.  She asked what she needed to take with her to easily access her cash.  We had talked about this and I told her to make sure she asked about all the fees her bank might charge.  After her chat, she called me all excited – Bank of America has a list of banks in Europe and with her brand new ATM card she wouldn’t get hit with the $5 transaction fee!  Weeooo.

The non-Bank of America ATM fees do not apply at some ATMs located outside the United States. Call us before you travel internationally for current information about banks participating in the program. She did.

The BoA branch staff also convinced her to get a super duper new Travel Rewards credit card.  They swore she could use it everywhere.  It had no foreign transaction fee and she could use it at an ATM machine – however it cost an arm and two legs – ATM, Over-the-Counter, Same-Day Online and Cash Equivalent Cash Advances: Either $10 or 5% of the amount of each transaction, whichever is greater.  Oh yeah – pay it back right away because the interest on a cash advance is 24.99%.  Sheeeeet mon!

OK, OK – you want me to tell her story – here it is – Maryellen promptly discovered that she could not use her ATM card at the Bancomat machine in Pontelandolfo, or the one in Morcone or the one freaking anywhere!!!!  She did have that lovely list of participating banks and none of them were within days of where we live in Italy.  So now she has no Euro and no access to her account.  H’mm, there must be another way – she’ll use her Travel Rewards Card and pay the usurious 5% and get a bunch of Euro.  What?  That card doesn’t work here either??????  We called Bank of America – frankly, I grabbed the phone and put on my advocate voice.  The officious twit said – “oh you’re not in Rome or a major city”? – excuse me, since when did banks only consider the tourist meccas and not the towns of us common folk?  She also explained that many Bancomats only worked with debit cards – not ATM cards.  What?  The less than informed or inadequately trained – I want to say to stupid to live but Jack says this is rude – so I will not say it – person in the Hillsborough Branch of Bank of America specifically signed my cousin up for an ATM card.  ERRRRRGGGGGGG.  What is the poor woman to do?  She borrowed the money from her son – see his debit card worked.  Bottom line – I hope she ditches BoA.

I know what you are thinking – “why the hell didn’t she just use her credit card?”  This is a very small town in Southern Italy – hardly anyone takes a credit card!!!!  It isn’t Princeton where a kid can flip out a debit card for a $3 coffee.  A cappuccino here costs .90 and not one of the four bars take credit/debit cards.  The only place in town that takes credit cards is the fabulous Landulphi – a great pub-restaurant.  Actually, lots of people don’t have or ever use credit cards.  It is a cash economy.  Make sure you know where you are going and if credit cards are widely accepted.

Tale 2: Alanna Gets Hit with 3%

True, Alanna’s tale is not as horrific as Maryellen’s but damn – who needs to pay 3% plus the $5 foreign ATM fee just to get Euro?  Alanna showed up at my door and asked where the Bancomat was.  Just for the hell of it I asked her who her bank was – when she said the evil Bank of America I fainted.  She knew what it would cost her for money – that was a good thing. The bad thing was she didn’t switch banks before she left. I told her to call and see if she could get the fee waived – she just spent two weeks working on a house through Habitat for Humanity in Portugal and Bank of America ought to commend her for that. We’ll see if that pitch works – if not my Paypal account will be richer and I’ll gather Euro for her.

I just checked my TD Bank statement – $3 to use a foreign ATM machine.  There is no percentage on top and no Euro conversion fee.  Was it always smooth sailing?  No, I always call and say “this is where I’ll be for the next 6 months.”  Once, the computer ate the advisory or the person entering the information fell asleep at the keyboard.  I’ve just called from where-ever I was and got instant access.

The Debit card that I cannot get to work anywhere in Italy is the one I have attached to my brokerage account at RBCDainRoucher.  I tried at a variety of Bancomats last year, called RBC and just plain gave up.

The bottom line?  Check, double check and re-check the fees and usability of your debit card.  Also really take a peek at your credit cards – make sure they do not charge a foreign transaction fee.  I use Capital One because they do not and I get travel miles.  We never used our American Express Card because they did – as of this summer they are changing their policy.

Also understand the economic reality of where you are going.  We hate tourist crammed places and know that small villages have been bartering and using cash for ages – credit cards?  Leave home without them.

Be prepared and have a great trip.

Ci Vediamo!

Forum Giovani – The Young Producers

Forum Giovani

Over the years I watched the young people of Potelandolfo produce theatrical events, calcio tournaments, festas and more.  I knew there was something called Forum Giovani but I didn’t really get what it was.  I’m thinking like Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney – a couple of kids get togther and make stuff happen.  You will not believe this – because it sure doesn’t happen in New Jersey – but the region and or Italia  gives each town a stipend of €2,500 earmarked for Forum Giovani. The teens to early twenty-somethings, that choose to be involved in the group, use this as seed money to produce events.  This is a really good thing!

The forum has a two room office that they use for meetings.  The commune provides the office, computer and furniture.  They only call meetings when they need them. Smart huh – no mandatory monthly BS.  Now, just what do these kids do with that money???

You conservatives out there need to stop thinking of it as a socialisitic handout.  The money is used for administrative overhead – paper, pens, ink for the printer, light bulbs etc. It really is seed money – watch those dollars and young entrepreneurs grow.  Having the administrative bills paid for all their energy goes into raising capital for events. A prime example is the Beer Festival that was organized and produced by Forum Giovani Pontelandolfo.

In order to produce a large community wide event, the kids had to develop and demonstrate a good arts administration skill set.  I know about that stuff – I did it and taught it.  These kids learned experientially, which to my mind is the absolute best way.

Here’s what this professoressa obserserved – the kids had the ability to:

  1. Raise adequate funds to underwrite the event by approaching and acquiring 20 sponsors.  Not an easy feat during the South’s economic crisis.  Ask and you shall receive – Fundraising 101. Thank you to all of the sponsors.
  2. Design and destribute great marketing material – the uber talented Valerio Mancini did the art work.  We know it worked because the place was packed.
  3. Negotiate with venders – some of whom were sponsors – for great deals on beer, sausages and all the trimmings. Set prices to cover costs and create a profit center.
  4. Rent a stage and organize the set up of the lights and sound. It helps that one of the areas largest tech theater companies is owned by a Pontelandolfese!
  5. Set up Ex-calcetto Nero ( a big open space) to insure that there were enough tables and refreshment stations.  All borrowed from Pro Loco Santa Croce – networking really works.
  6. Create two nights worth of activities and entertainment.  They hired the home town favorite – Ri Ualanegli – the dance company is huge and has a huge following. Night two featured The Dish Rock Band – also local and with a following. PR 101 –  hire groups with lots of performers and/following – guaranteed audience that buys your beer and sausages.
  7. Handle budgeting and fiscal accountablity – note there was never just one person by the money boxes.  Which was kind of cute as one person took money and the second gave you your beer or food tickets.  Well the boys were cute – the wait while they tore the tickets not so cute.

Was it all wonderful – nah they forgot to precook sausages and the wait for a sausage sandwhich was a three beer wait. – Hmmm – maybe that was the plan.  Also, they didn’t organize traffic well by the food and drink.  Did they learn – you bet.

But enough of my academic chatter – lets see what they have to say.

❤️❤️Marilina e Elio’s Festa❤️❤️

  
    💕Elio and Marilina – Auguri!💕

Music, not fruits and vegetables, filled the Pontelandolfo covered outdoor market. Bar Elimar’s Marilina and Elio are getting married!  They invited customers, family and Pontelandolfo pals to help them pre-celebrate. Disco lights, a band, tables, chairs, enough food to fill millions, and friendly faces transformed the market into the hottest club in town and made this one night to remember.

  
Words can’t capture the sounds of the night. The band played everything from traditional Italian to Latin to rock-and-roll. The father of the groom sang. The aunt of the groom sang. Local guys leapt up to the stage and sang. And all the voices were welcomed with cheers from the crowd. 

Everyone was dancing from toddlers to octogenarians. That’s one of the things I love about village life.  Everyone participated. Even I got up and gave it a shake or three. 

  

💞💞 Thank you, Marilina for inviting us. 💞💞

Buon Natale! Felice Anno Nuovo! Auguri!

santa 2014

Poor Babbo Natale – Some Kids Never Grow Up!

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Vi auguriamo un Natale pieno di amore, pace e felicità.

               We wish you a Christmas filled with love, peace and happiness.

Buone Feste e un felice Anno Nuovo!

                                 Happy Celebrations and a happy New Year!

Con i migliori auguri,

Midge & Jack

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Alla tua salute!

Thank you for being the best subscribers a blogger could ever want.  I look forward to hearing each and every one of your comments as 2015 continues our adventure.

Love,

Midge