Milan’s Museo Poldi Pezzoli

Everyone has visited Milan’s Duomo – everyone but me. I will not wait in Disneyland-esq long lines to see the inside of the what is one of the most incredibly grand cathedrals in the world. I will spend time marveling at the sculptures and freezes on the exterior and then race away from the tourist infested Piazza Duomo neighborhood and seek out tourist group ignored gems, like Museo Poldi Pezzoli.

Museo Poldi Pezzoli is tucked away on on Via Manzoni, 12. The museum was the home of a 19th Century Milanese nobleman, Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli. Tickets are 10 euro unless you are ageless anziani like Jack and I then tickets are 8.50. I couldn’t  remember ever seeing a senior citizen discount at New York museums and thank blog follower Mike for reminding me that there are! Also, he pointed out that many cities have free museums.

They were filming something in the historic center of Milan and we couldn’t walk past Teatro San Carlo. That meant we couldn’t follow the directions on my phone to find the museum. We tried my friend Marta’s phone. Errrggg. Road blocks everywhere in the historic center. We tried the map. Errrgg.

Getting lost has benefits! Chocolate shoes and purses!

Jack said follow me. We did. He found it. By now we were growling with hunger. Entering the museum doors, I asked the charming men working the desk if they had a restaurant. They didn’t but sent us up the street to the fabulous Ristorante Don Lisander.

It was elegant and the perfect way to transition from contemporary Milan to the glamour of the 19th century. We spent €166 for the for of us – New York prices. We started with wonderful appetizers of Pugliese Burrata cheese, Red Tuna tartar and ended with scrumptious Risotto Milanese, Oso Buco and crisp salads. Did I mention the local wine? That was incredible too. Sigh.

Off to the museum! (I wondered if the staff thought we would really come back.) We bought our discounted tickets, turned to enter and gasped. An incredible neo-baroque fountain is nestled at the beginning of a grand staircase. The staircase guides folks to the rooms were Gian Giacomo lived.

The apartment is full of works by Botticelli, Bellini, Mantegna, Pollaiolo and others. The art just drew us all in. I spent quite a bit of time wondering who modeled for Sandro Botticelli’s Madonna of the Book. Girlfriend, neighbor, courtesan? Twilight diffused light is kind of romantic. Hmmm. Midge, it isn’t too late to study a wee bit of art history.

The Murano Glass rooms, where you can also find portraits of our host, are chock full of Murano glass dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries. Unlike, the faux Murano trinkets made in China one finds in Venice today, these were the real deal and glorious.

Want to skip a century or two? Giovani Battista Tiepolo’s Death of Saint Jerome is worth some introspection.

In case you are running late and wonder what time it is. Like the Mad Hatter you can dash into the Clock Room and check out the clocks dating from the 16th to 19th centuries. I wonder if Gian Giacomo was always on time or late for that important date?

Did you ever wonder why people collect what they collect?

Join us in our search for places off the beaten track. Leave the backpack infested rat packs and follow folks like Jack, my pal Marta and I – visit small museums, gardens and other hidden treasures.

Ci vediamo!

Baci, Baci! Irregular Regulars

Baci, baci! Grand abbraccio! Kiss, kiss, big hugs. Within half an hour after landing at Malpensa in Milano, Jack and I were embraced by Milanese warmth and passion. Right off the plane we were welcomed back with gusto. For us, the hugs started at the Taxi queue. Since we were traveling with four – count them 4 – giant bags, we wanted the next mini van in line. Bentornati, welcome back, echoed from the cache of drivers waiting for fares. Three helped our driver put the hernia inducing bags in his van. One stole his keys, which – after a bit of kibitzing about why does he always get the bella gente, nice people – were returned. Bentornati? Who did they think we were? How could they know us? My kind husband smirked and noted that I chat up everyone, how could they not remember us? The standard fare from Malpensa to the city center is €95. After the driver belly lugged our bags to the door of the hotel, I handed him €100. He thanked me profusely and gave me a big hug. Bentornati!

We rang the bell at Il Girasole High Quality Inn’s portone (humongous door blocking the complex from the street) and announced ourselves. Midge, Jack Bentornati! The words rang out before the door was fully open. Nicola Negruzzi, one of the vivacious owners of our favorite little hotel, pulled open the door and wrapped me in a cocoon like embrace. Next, Jack’s turn for a huge hug. Whenever we come to Milano – which is about once a year – we stay at Il Girasole. Co-owner, Matteo Negruzzi came in – saw us – and….. Bentornati! Baci, baci, grande abbraccio. Big hugs and kisses to both of us. Matteo reminded us that Il Girasole is our Milanese home away from home.

Jack and Matteo

We always truck over to Mail Boxes ETC and ship our suitcases to Pontelandolfo. If we are arriving from the states and off on other adventures, it makes sense to off load some of the baggage. Jack schlepped the bags over the threshold of the store and the owner joined the Bentornati chorus. He knew exactly why we were there, whipped out the right forms, asked where we were off too and guaranteed our luggage would make it home before we did.

Up the street and around the corner is Tony’s, an inexpensive restaurant that serves pretty good fish and just about anything else you could find in a higher end local place. We walked in, asked for a table for two, took off our coats and whomp – heard Bentornati! The waiter looked at us and said – New Jersey right? Glad you’re back – but you always come back!

I could give you two more examples – Vineria San Giovanni and the Restaurant Mamma Lina – but you get the drift.

Wow – I must look like someone famous! In high school I could pass for Sally Fields in her flying nun phase and once in an airport Jack was confused for Tom Wilkenson (British actor). Maybe we give off a famous person auro? Baaammm – then it hit me. We are irregular regulars! There is no schedule. No one knows when we will return to Quartiere Villa San Giovanni, this friendly Milanese neighborhood. We are absolutely irregular regulars!

Except to see the sites, listen to music and window shop, we avoid the tourist packed historic center of Milan. A few years ago, thanks to Nonna’s Mulberry Tree subscriber Lynn Y., we got turned on to Il Girasole. Located at Via Doberdò 19, close to Metro stop Villa San Giovanni, the hotel has all the bells and whistles of the big guys – free wi-fi, parking, more than continental breakfast and incredible staff. Every time we fly to Italy through Milan or venture north with our car, we stop and stay in this neighborhood populated by real people and featuring non tourist prices in restaurants and shops. At il Girasole, my favorite room is somehow always available for us. The afternoon registration ritual turns into aperitivo e spuntino and we like the local eateries. Bam – irregular regulars.

Becoming an irregular regular sort of comes naturally to me. I like things that are familiar and good. If the service, price and goods are great – why not go back?! Are you wondering how folks remember us? The former mayor of Princeton, Barbara Sigmund, taught me a great politicians trick – stick out your hand and say your name. Then make sure you get the waiters, store owners, etc. name and use it a few times while you are there. Of course, ten minutes later don’t ask me their names but I’m good while I’m in the place. Also, name badges and writing on uniforms help a lot. Why not joke, laugh and chat with folks where ever you are? It feels good, makes the time pass pleasantly and BONUS – you too can become an irregular regular and hear that pleasant bentornato – welcome back!

Ci Vediamo!

Diva Does La Scala

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That’s me – on the right – the very young Diva.

Everyone has a fantasy right? Not that kind!!!  The kind where we see ourselves, as Walter Mitty did, the conquerer of all things.  I was going to be an actress who really wanted to be a cabaret singer with a dirty ditty or two.  Life has been an interesting journey and some of the roads had me on stage, on film and singing a dirty ditty or two.  Another road led me to Westminter Choir College to create an Arts Administration Major & Minor.  It was at Westminster – where I was blessed to work with the brightest of the bright students who were also incredible singers – that my secret inner Diva started worming her way out.  Every day on that wonderful Princeton Campus I would hear incredible vocal music floating out of studios.  Opera!  I want to sing on the really big stage.  Now my voice ain’t ever going to get me there but wow what a fantasy.  I think it’s really the costumes I want – imagine those head dresses!!!!

We were in Milan on my birthday and I decided that the present I wanted was to explore Teatro alla Scala.  The day before, I went to the ticket booth to see if we could get tickets.  It didn’t matter what we saw – I just wanted to get inside the place and absorb the centuries of music.

 It’s my birthday – of course I want to sit in the orchestra wear pearls and hope the paparazzi snap my photo.  €250 a ticket?  What??  OK, how about the next ring – sold out?  No, No, I will not sit up there with the Gods.  Saddened by my poor planning – yes of course you can buy tickets on line.  Yes of course we could have bought them months ago.  I tearfully departed, stopped and started dancing in the street.

We would still get in. The  I would still absorb the magic of La Scala and it would only cost us €5 or less – thank you for those biglietti per cittadini anziani – by visiting the museum.  The next day we headed back to Via Filodrammatici, #2.  Catchy street name – notice that drammatici – Word Reference says it means exaggerated, dramatic, theatrical!  Great place for Teatro La Scala.

The 2,800 seat house opened on August 3, 1778 as New Royal-Ducal Theatre alla Scala.  If those walls could only talk…

We wended our way to the iconic structure at lunch time – note it is my birthday we will spend a foolish amount on lunch.  Teatro alla Scala Museum is located on Largo Ghiringhelli, Piazza Scala.  It is essentially the side of the theater.  Piazza Scala also sports for the well heeled music afficionado, Ristornte Teatro Alla Scala Il Marchesino.  The celebrated Italian chef, Gultiero Marchesi creates meals that are delicious and incredible to look at. The two well dressed men sitting next to us ordered something that was actually coated in REAL gold!  I couldn’t believe it when one of them took out his phone and snapped a photo to promptly send out to the world.  We were too busy to tasting and staring, staring and tasting to snap any photos.  Sorry.  Oh, yeah the menu is on iPads!  The head waiter presents each diner with an iPad!  Check out their website –  Happy birthday to me – of course for what we spent we could have bought one of those tickets for that night’s performance.

Smiling like a well fed and wine paired diva, I strolled to the museum and enjoyed every bloody minute.  From peering into see the grand auditorium, sitting in a box and waving at my fans, to wishing I could just wear the antique costumes for a nanno second, the museum was magical.

Click on the link to see the two minute video of some of the things we saw –

If only I had done my research before we got there!!!!

Tailor-made guided tours are available for tourists looking for a more “behind-the-scenes” experience. That’s me – I want to be in the scene. These tours must be booked in advance. Note that word – ADVANCE.  “Depending on the type of tour, your guide will take you on to the celebrated La Scala stage, into the famous royal box, into gold boxes and into the recently restored auditorium to uncover the hidden gems of La Scala, the prompter’s box, the impressive chandelier, the new fly tower, and other areas of interest.”

ERRRRRR next time!

Let out your inner Diva and check out La Scala’s website – they have virtual tours too.

Some S.O.B. Hit Me!!!!!

My arm still hurts and it has been hours since I was hit by an asshole on the very safe, clean streets of our apartment’s zone.  E*&^&^%$%%^^&@$!!  Damn it – so mad.  Taking a calming breath I remember that the day had been wonderful before I encountered mister wacker.  Let us explore the magic and beauty that is Milano.

We didn’t set off until almost noon and our first stop was the neighborhood il forno.  The bakery also served caffè and we needed it – lots of it.  What surprised me – since I was expecting Manhattan prices – was that two cornetti and caffè only cost me €3.80.  My tired Italian must be rusty – when I said “due cornetti e due caffè” the cute teenager behind the counter asked me in English if I meant American coffee.  GRRRRRR.  I got over it when the strawberry marmellata in the cornetto dribbled on my chin.

The entrance to the metro was clean and I could breathe.  I say that because my asthma keeps me off New York City’s smelly subways.  Tickets within the city are €1.50 per 90 minutes of riding and changing.  We were in the center of Milan at the famous Duomo in about 15 minutes.


 Exiting we saw the spires of the cathedral touching the clouds and heard this – (HIT THE LINK!)

It took almost six centuries to build this gothic beauty. I’m glad its finished and those great break dancing boys could please the crowds and the Duomo’s patron – St Mary of the Nativity.

What?  It is only May and there are oodles of tourist groups cramming the Piazza del Duomo.  Follow me flags were blowing in the breeze and tightly packed groups of Asian tourists were in formation.  Yellow capped groups, blue capped groups, school color t-shirt wearing groups of students added to the chaos.  OK, we ain’t standing in the Disney Land length line to buy tickets to enter the magnificent edifice.  Perhaps January is a better time to see the Duomo.

We meandered the clean streets away from the crowds.  The Milanese are well dressed, polite and urbane. I have no idea what section of the city’s center we were exploring but it was architecturally interesting.  After a €10 each lunch – in a little joint filled with locals – we decided to walk back to the Duomo and the metro.  Back at our corner of the city we decided to look for a marcelleria and strolled down a wide avenue. That is when it happened! %$#!!!

A Haight Asbury, dreadlocks sporting, filthy throwback was walking towards us.  Lilting and tilting and sending out noxious fumes.  I’ve lived in cities and not much scares me.  I looked at this ill, stoned or simply sad excuse for a human and moved over.  He picked up his pace, got right up next to me and lashed  his over coated arm out. Whap – what the *&%!  I swear a stick was in the sleeve of that coat because no one has a femur strong enough to raise a lump on my arm.  Being a calm and pathetically introverted little thing I promptly turned and screamed at him.  He kept on lilting and tilting down the street.  I guess it could have been worse.  I could have swung my purse at him and knocked him out.

Time to hit the local bar.  Livarghi Bar was a cute little joint.  A Compari soda only cost me €2.50 and Jack’s wine €1.50 – no tourist prices in our neighborhood.  What shall we do tomorrow??  Whatever we do it will be magical and beautiful!

Waking up in Milan

I’m still shaking off the zzzzzzzz’s from our travel day so if i start to sound incoherent toss caffè on me.  The trip from the airport to the center of Milan by cab is €90 – we had too many bags to take the train.  Jack keeps saying we have to leave more stuff in Italy and get down to one carry-on.  I’m sure he is right – but why does he have two giant suitcases and I only have one????  The apartment we rented is not in the heart of the city – we love the neighborhood vibe and lack of tourists.  To get there by train we would have to take the Malpensa Express train ( and at Cadorna Station take the red line metro.  Easy, but not with enough luggage to outfit a baseball team.

Our host, Claudia, met us at the apartment – Via Livraghi 1/A. Yes, yes, it was Jack who did the research and found the place on (vacation rentals by owner).  The rent is considerably less  – way less – think less than €100 a day – than we would pay in a hotel and we have a cute one bedroom flat on the 7th floor in a real neighborhood. Of course it has an elevator – who would carry umpteen bags up seven flights?  Not us!  Claudia provided maps and information on Milan, recommendations for restaurants and volunteered to drive us out to Bellagio on Lago Como next Monday.  She is wonderful!!  We are one block from the Metro stop “Villa San Giovanni”.  Our goal today – if I ever stop staring at the views of the city out the windows- is to hop the metro to the center of the city and just reconnoiter.

Last night we followed Claudia’s advice and ate dinner at Mamma Lina di Milano.  Our apartment is really on the corner of Via Livraghi (a private street I might add) and the thoroughfare Via le Monza.  Since all we had to do was cross V.le Monza to get to Mamma Lina and we could barely walk it was a no brainer.  The exterior looks like any urban building but the interior –


A hidden garden greeted us.  The tables are to the right.

The fare is “tipica Pugliese” from Puglia.  (Check out their website at We both started with an incredibly creamy mozzarella cheese on a bed of rucola.  The description said it was bathed in cream – yummy.  Too tired to think, we both had the same entrée – scallops served in their shells with diced asparagus and an angelically light sauce.  Yes, it was seafood heaven.  A side of steamed but herbed vegetables and we were happy eaters.


Almost too pretty to eat – but  we did.

What – it is almost noon.  Too late to get a cappuccino and try out the bar on our block.  Rats, I’ll have to start moving earlier tomorrow.  We are off to see the famous Duomo and explore the center of Milan.  I’ll have more to say domani.  Ci vediamo a presto.