Tag: ExPats in Italy

American living in Italian Village

Panettone Enough for All

by midgeguerrera, posted in Food - Eating In and Out!, Local Businesses

Deck the halls with boughs of holly. Tis the season to be jolly fa la la la, la la la la. Gorge we now on panettone – – -! What else is a girl to do but gorge! This holiday confection seems to chase her around the store? Well, I could wait and not buy one. Impossible. I could buy a few and not eat every slice. The springy tall cake, liberally speckled with raisons, dried citrus and what ever else someone had in the pantry is impossible to ignore. If you don’t eat it all it starts to get stale. Hmm, not so bad stale either. I imagine, a slightly hard piece of deliciousness, soaked in eggs that have been whisked with vanilla and cinnamon, grilled on my Nonna’s cast iron stove top grill and then bathed in real, honest to God maple syrup. Couple that with crispy bacon and it is orgasmic. OMG. Weight Watcher points be damned that is one fine seasonal breakfast, lunch, dinner or snack.

Antonio Diglio makes the best Panettone!
Cross section of the best panettone in the world – from Diglio Forno!

Made by Antonio Diglio in Pontelandolfo, panettone is light, flavorful and simply fabulous. There is usually none left over unless it gets hidden so I don’t eat it all in one day. Making French Toast, all of those lovely spongy holes fill with egg and a slice cooks up heavenly. Sigh….

Perhaps, I should start at the beginning. Did I enjoy panettone as a child? Not that I can remember. When did I first taste the stale crappy ones sold in supermarkets? That would have been in college. Surrounded by all those Italian American women in my dorm from Italian enclaves like Jersey City, Newark and Hoboken I was introduced to the Italian traditions that New Jersey farm girl Midge never experienced. That is also when I discovered, having imbibed in a bit of Maryjane, how stupendous panettone was doctored with jam, jelly, maple syrup, etc. Luckily, later in life when I had a couple of lira in my pocket, I unearthed panettone that was light, airy, sweet but not gooey and wonderful to eat all by itself. Now, spending holiday time in Pontelandolfo I am binging on the fresh panettone from Diglio Forno and other cakes brought to town from the capital of panettone – Milano.

Diglio Forno makes holiday treats that require self control – no one can eat just one.

Who started this tradition of culinary goodness? What follows is an obvious embellishment of the ancient legend. It was a dark and stormy night, the ides of – wait, wait, wrong legends.

The Legend of Panettone: Tis the season to rock around the great hall. A blowout of a Christmas party was happening at the 15th century Milanese court of Ludovico Il Moro. Servers carried out tray after tray of beautifully prepared food. The dessert, which was to be a surprise and an incredible joy, was slowly cooking in the oven. One young kitchen helper was left to guard the oven and make sure the dessert came out pefectly. For whatever reason, maybe he ran out side to see the snow, maybe Gabriella the serving girl stopped and flirted with him, the reason doesn’t matter – he let the dessert burn to a blackened crisp. Caspita! Desperate, the lad looked around the kitchen and remembered he had made a bread with left over dough. He had tossed in dried fruits, lemon peels and whatever edibles were around. He gulped, put it on a fancy tray, powdered it with sugar, and suggested that the cook serve it. The cook walked incredibly slowly into the great hall. Toni was cowering in the doorway. Slices were served. Compliments were tossed and the party was a success. In summary: Toni, a lowly kitchen helper, made a terrible mistake and fearing he’d be served up roasted, was saved by his quick wit and culinary creation made of leftover stuff. He saved the party and introduced the world to “L’è ‘l pan del Toni,” meaning “It’s Toni’s bread, hence the name panettone. The end.

May your holiday season be bright and filled with scrumptious panettone. If you buy one in an Italian market DO NOT SAVE IT. Why let it get stale – EAT IT TODAY. I googled what one can do with panettone and here are some ideas. Panettone bread pudding – obvious but yummy. Panettone tiramisu – hmm not so obvious. What follows is an easy way to use the bread up. On a griddle heat up slices of panettone. Toast it well on both sides. DO NOT PUT IT IN A TOASTER. I have and it warranted a call to the fire house. Put the slices on a plate and pour some Grand Marnier over it. Imagine all the liquors you could experiment with. Heating up a slice opens the door to the refrigerator and pantry because you can spread it with whatever sweet stuff you like. Or, eat it my way – make French toast and douse it in real maple syrup. Do not leave out the crispy bacon.

Enjoy the season!

Ci Vediamo

Midge Guerrera

BOOKS AND PLAYS MAKE GREAT GIFTS! 

CONSIDER GIFTING A WORK OF MINE. THANKS!

Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo!

A few slots are left for the week of June 29th. Message me for information. A week in Pontelandolfo is a great gift for a culinary adventurer.

The Passion of the Play and the Players

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo

If you are in Italy and anywhere near Pontelandolfo (BN), put July 31st and August 1st on your calendar – immediately. Even if you are not nearby – put it in your calendar and come to Pontelandolfo. At 9:30 PM in Piazza Roma you will be astounded by an incredible theatrical spectacle. It will be worth the ride. I am a theatre kid and it takes a lot to make me gasp. This community wide production of Dramma Sacro Santa Giocandina has done that. This week, I went to a rehearsal and was impressed by the focus and passion this group of players have for the script, rehearsal process and the traditions of their village.

In Pontelandolfo for over one year, a band of community actors, designers, musicians and technicians have been focused on bringing an historic story to life. Their focus and commitment is as powerful as the faith of the play’s heroine, Giocondina. Dramma Sacro Santa Giocandina, the Sacred Drama of Santa Giocondina, has been performed in the Sannio Hills since 1872. Originally, it was produced every seven years, then every four years. It has been seven years since Covid made the four year repetition impossible. Interesting that seven years brings the play full circle to its roots.

The story, of the ultimate sacrifice, is a familiar one. Giocondina, the young daughter of a Roman Senator converts to Christianity. Even though her father and family implore Giocondina, she refuses to abandon her faith. Roman Emperor Diocletian condemns her to be beheaded. Giocondina chooses to save her soul and live on in the kingdom of heaven. Continuing a sacred and socio-community tradition, the role of Giocondina is entrusted to a young woman from Pontelandolfo.

Pontelandolfo Actress Dalila Griffini in rehearsal as Giocondina.

The original script, crafted in 1872 by Ulisse Rinaldi, drew on an ancient tale of unmitigated Christian faith. In 1964, a Priest, Don Nicola D’Addona, revised the original seven act play into four acts. The play that continues to this day is a revision done by Professor Michele Rossi.

Direttore di Palcoscenico, essential the person in charge of all technical aspects, Fiorella De Michele, explained that the presentation of the sacred drama is very important for the Pontelandolfo community. Demonstrating the tradition of the production, the troupe of actors represents the play’s past and present. Many revise roles they have played in the past. Others, new to the show, become part of the future of continuing productions of Dramma Sacro Santa Giocondina.

Actor, Valerio Mancini, my handsome cousin, who has been in a number of independent films told me: “Quella di partecipare è stata una scelta non ponderata, non voluta ma dettata dall’istinto. Da buon Pontelandolfese sento come una responsabilità nei confronti del dramma. Farò di tutto per onorare il mio ruolo. In un mondo in cui regna l’incertezza, ogni piccolo gesto, ogni emozione suscitata, ogni sorriso strappato avrà conseguenze positive nel lungo periodo, in un altro luogo o su altre persone.”

Don’t worry – Valerio translated it for me: “To participate was an unconsidered choice, not wanted but dictated by instinct. As a good Pontelandolfese, I feel a responsibility towards the drama. I will do everything to honor my role. In a world where uncertainty reigns, every small gesture, every emotion aroused, every smile torn will have positive consequences in the long run, in another place or on other people.”

It does take a village to create this work of art, at the helm is Gabriele Palladino. He has been the artistic director of the spectacular a few times. I asked him to tell me about this year.

“The careful study of scenic solutions, delicate theatrical taste, the all-round interaction between the characters and the location, make this year’s drama original and innovative.”

He feels that he is creating an avant-garde theatrical experience, which paints itself with spectacular plays of light and shapes. I will tell you, that based on the rehearsal I saw, the musical mix created by Gennaro Del Nero also became a principal member of the cast. I watched Gabriele bring his arms up and down to cue the sound operator. The music is absolutely cued to the lines of the script.

Gabriele feels that the audience for this production has a more participatory and engaging role. He is an interesting director. I watched him join his actors in the rehearsal space, guiding them with words and movement. He traverses the space and becomes one with his performers. Gabrielle is a director, I wished I could have worked under.

Director Palladino said, “Two magical evenings, where the archaic lemmas of great literature, weight of the script and the glittering guise of the advancing new, will combine the past and the modern. The tradition of past centuries melded with a three thousand-year cultural proposal will manifest in a “fusion” of the drama. An intriguing, desired, sought-after, unforced “fusion”, which is the result of a long and passionate work.”

Artistic Director Gabriele Palladino at Work.

The team of Pontelandofese who may not be on stage but absolutely contribute to the event, include the sound, lights, and off-stage crew who make the magic happen. I applaude everyone involved in this production. You can applaud them too, on July 31 and August 1.

Technical women rock!

Ci vediamo July 31 and August 1. Midge

PS. Check out my books and plays at www.midgeguerrera.com

La Mostra È stato un Successo!

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo

Sunday, September 12th, featuring the work of Rito Ruggiero, the veranda in front of our house was transformed into an outdoor gallery. We had two days to pull it off. The framed collection of work arrived Friday night. As we catalogued and created labels for the twenty pieces, our delight in Rito’s unschooled talent increased. Saturday morning, Jack, Rossella Mancini, my partner, and I went into overdrive. I only threw a hammer at Jack once – it missed.

Speaking of my husband, Jack Huber, he has an incredible eye for composition. (He married me didn’t he.) I have to give him all the credit for designing and hanging the show. Rossella and I were his somewhat able assistants. Saturday evening all the pieces were in place. The stage was dressed and we snapped pictures to continue our outpouring of digital publicity. Then we struck the set! Yup, we took all the work down. WHAT! The show was outdoors. Even though we have a gated home, between the weather and the potential for thievery we had to bring everything back into the house. Jack had made a diagram of what went where. I gulped and thought “how the hell are we going to do this on Sunday?”

Sunday morning the blue skies and bright sun created the perfect backdrop for the show. Annarita Mancini, my incredibly talented assistant, arrived and put on the caffè. Rossella and her terrific kids, Annalaura and Alessio, raced in. Everyone leaped into the fray. Silver arrows soon could be followed directly to our house. The veranda was swept, mopped and tweaked. Nicola Ciarlo arrived with flowers and arranged greenery. Jack’s diagram was essential – the art was rehung. Tables were set, viewing chairs set. Food and wine delivered. Annalaura took her place behind the bar. The giant banner was hung on the gate. More pictures were taken and quickly posted on social media. Our energetic team did a stellar job. Then I panicked.

Would anyone come? We had press in the daily paper, tons of social media inserts, direct invitations and wine – lots of wine. But would anyone come? At 3:59 PM I felt like a kid impatiently waiting for her birthday party to start. Rito arrived with his family. My stomach was in knots. Bing. 4:00 PM – no one. Merde. 4:10 PM the parade started. People came alone, in groups, with families or friends. I smiled and took a breath.

Rito, in blue, greets Carmine Fusco who arrived with a surprise.
Rito had drawn this when he was twelve. That was over 70 years ago. Carmine, a local historian had it in his collection.

We were quite pleased with the number of guests that not only came, but also purchased art. Our social media generated requests for information from potential buyers in the United States. For me, the highlight of the day was watching Rito do gallery tours for interested people. Explaining not only his technique but the inspiration and location of each piece. At one point, a group of the village’s young business people came and were asking questions, commenting and engaging with Rito in a passionate discourse.

Then it was over. Guests left, all was packed up, leftover wine was drunk and the team took a breath and went out to dinner. A celebration of accomplishment was in order. And you all wonder how I spend my time in a small Southern Italian village! Come to Pontelandolfo and see!

Ci vediamo!

Midge

Www.midgeguerrera.com

P.S. My 9/11 based play, E-mail: 9/12 will be available from publisher, Next Stage Press, on October 1st. Besides being a play, it would be a great addition to a High School or University history curriculum.

Curbside Service Pontelandolfo Style

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo

There aren’t many things I’m afraid of.  Needles, however, turn my tummy to jello, make my teeth clench and my hands sweat.  Imagine the wave of fear that washed over me when the orthopedic doctor in Alghero, Sardegna said “everyday for thirty days you have to give yourself a needle in the stomach.” I screamed NO.  The nurse said, “or die from a blood clot.”  Oh, I mused – die or get a needle in the stomach everyday for thirty days.  Thirty days ways the length of time I was to wear the cast/boot on my broken ankle and repose.  Gulp, I’ll take the needle but I can’t give it to myself.  The nurse showed my husband Jack how to jab a needle in my gut.  Jack did it – I think happily and with a malicious grin – for three weeks.  Then he left for Venice.  Catzzo, now what do I do?  No way I can shoot myself up with blood thinners – eeeeeuuuuuchh.

midge

Wheelchair and Booze! One way to get through this.

Curbside Service at La Farmacia!  Annarita, my resourceful personal assistant, brought me to Pontelandolfo’s pharmacy.  Since I wasn’t supposed to put pressure on my foot and wasn’t about to hop on cobblestones, I couldn’t get out of the car.  Dottoressa Tina Perone raced to the rescue!  Pharmacists here can give needles and will – even it that means watching me tremble in my car.  Tina opened my car door, I pulled my dress over my head, pulled down my panties and closed my eyes.  Hey, did you give me the shot?  She had and I hadn’t felt a thing.  We went to the pharmacy for the entire week that Jack was gone and I almost happily got my daily needle.  Thank you Perone family!

Curbside service didn’t just happen at the pharmacy.  Small town life is wonderful.  Shop owners helped me, laughed with me and made sure I kept rolling along.

Curbside Service at La Feramenta!  I had a new sink installed and needed to buy a faucet.  No way could I handle the uneven street with my hop-along walker.  The owner of our local hardware store sent out selections for me to choose from.  The transaction happened at the car.  Thank you Nicola!

Curbside Service at Da Tiziana!  Since I was now sleeping in the dining room and folks kept stopping buy to visit and stare at my broken ankle, I needed nightgowns that weren’t tattered and stained.  Off we went to our local clothing shop.  The owner dashed out with nightgowns.  Then, in the street, she and Annarita helped me balance on one foot while I tried them on.  Of course, I did that over my clothes!  My mamma taught me not to stand naked in the street.  We visited her a few times to buy knee socks and other stuff.  All carried to the car. Thank you Tiziana!

Curbside Service at Bar Elimar and Bar 2000!  Wheelchair in tow, the ever powerful Annarita decided I needed to get out of the house.  I sighed. She threw me in the car.  We arrived at Bar Elimar and barista, Annette, moved tables around outside so I could easily toss my sorry butt in a chair from the car.  Ahhhhh- Campari Spritz please.  Another time we went to Bar 2000 and owner, Ghaleb, went out of his way to make me comfortable.  Thank you both!

It pays to be a local!  Thank you to all those kind and generous Pontelandolfese who fed me, laughed with me and made my thirty days of staying off my foot bearable.

Ci Vediamo!

How I Spent My Summer Vacation by Ragazzi Iacovella

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo, Stops Along the Journey - Sites Off the Tourist Track

The days are getting shorter, the wind is whistling in the mountains – summer is over.  Annalaura, Gabriele and Alessio Iacovella looked at each other and said – what did we do this summer?

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A Rainy September Day – Let’s Talk About the Summer!

After a warm your chilly bones lunch of tortellini soup, roasted chicken, home made french fries, local mushrooms and more at Carmela’s kitchen, her grandchildren eleven year old Gabriele, 12 year old Annalaura and 8 year old Alessio sat me down and told me their summer story –

During the day we stayed with Nonna Carmela – she is a great cook!  At night we went to Casalduni.  Casalduni has – Parco Giochi.  (Their dad, Pasquale,  is Casalduni’s Sindaco – mayor.  The kids burst with pride about that.)

Casalduni

Parco Giochi has a garden, lake with fish, scivolo – slide,  gonfiabili – inflatable houses to jump in,  and campo per pallavolo – volleyball, bocce, small paddle boats –  we know lots of kids in Casalduni.  We had fun every night.

Allessio – a real charmer chimed in – Mi piace mar in Puglia!  I took a long trip to Puglia with my family. In the car we looked at the paesaggio – panorama –  and we saw the flowers, albero d’olvio – olive trees e gira sole – sun flowers .

Gabriele – I was a little bored in the car – the trip was long.

AnnaLaura – No it was short to Puglia – per andare in Calabria il viaggio è lungo.

Gabriele – Per me è lungo

Annalaura – We stayed at the Orchidea Blu Hotel. (http://www.orchideavillage.it/ – San Menaio, Vico del Gargano (Foggia) Puglia)

Orchieda Blue Hotel

We went to the pool every afternoon!

It had a pool, un animazione – clown – a person to play with us kids. On a typical day – we went to the beach in the morning and in the afternoon to the pool.  That way my mother didn’t have to worry about us so much.

What did you like the best?

Gabriele – Dolce- dolce ogni giorno.  We ate in the same restaurant in the hotel every day and I ate tanti dolci.

Besides eating dessert what did you do –

Gabriele – I went to the pool to swim.  With the animazione – played darts, calcio in the streets, pallanuoto – water polo and ping pong.  OK, OK giocare con l’animazione è più divertente di mangiare dolci.

Alessio – Ho giocato con i miei nuovi amici nel mare.

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Those are old people in that picture.  I played with my new friends Samuele, Fabrizio, Giusseppe, Niccolo e Raffele.  We built castles in the sand, swam, giocare a pallone – calcio and ….

Gabriele – Rodi Garganico – one night we went there too.  It was like Pontelandolfo with an ocean.

Rodi - city in Puglio

View from a piazza in Rodi Garganico

Annalaura – Tanti negozi e bancharelle – shops and stands.  The ancient buildings – beautiful.  We were sad to leave Puglia.

Alessio – But wait till we tell you about our other trip to Calabria –

It is September – how did you spend your summer vacation?

I hope you got to play calcio too.

Festa Di San Donato — Comicron – Days 5 & 6

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo, Stops Along the Journey - Sites Off the Tourist Track

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There I was, rifling through my tiny little notebook, looking for a clue as to what happened on day five of the festa. The seven day event filled party had addled my brain. Movie? 9:30 – what the hell did that mean.  I pulled up the Festa poster to read the list.  Cripes!  There are 8 – I counted – 8 days of late night events, drinks, etc.  No wonder I can’t remember.  Whack – it hit me – what did movie mean – just the biggest event to happen here – Comicron.  A two day film festival that drew entries from all over the world.  Note it was a TWO day even – so I only have to write one blog. The web site is slick – http://www.comicronfilmfestival.it – and states:

Il Comicron international short film festival nasce da un’idea di Ugo Gregoretti di creare un’inedita manifestazione dedicata esclusivamente ai cortometraggi comici. Un’esperienza in grado di scoprire nuovi talenti…

The Comicron international short film festival grew from the idea of Ugo Gregoretti to create an unprecedented event dedicated exclusively to comedy shorts.  An experience that allows us to discover new talent …

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This festival and the drawing power of Artistic Director Maestro Ugo Gregoretti, attracted a huge well heeled audience  – including the red carpet crowd. They made the mistake of setting up the red carpet during the day – so that any old riff-raff could strut their stuff – like me!

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Red Carpet? It must be out for me!

Slick, slick, slick. The roadies and volunteers were all dressed in red t-shirts, had communication equipment and moved about with purpose. High end ear buds could be seen on crew chiefs scurrying about with clip boards. Banners from the highway led you to the piazza.  The banners were a nice touch and perked up the streets.

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We got there in plenty of time, sat on the red chairs and made sure I wasn’t sitting behind a tall person. The show was slated to start at 9:30 and being run by professionals so we knew curtain would be at 9:30.  Sitting there, I discovered that being on time was actually late.  The cutting of the ribbon and parade down the faux red carpet had started earlier – rats!!!

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Maestro Gregoretti cuts the opening ribbon.             DEZPHOTO

 

Having the attention span of a gnat, I promptly started looking around – whoa flowers on the down stage edge.  That’s a nice touch and the screen is huge.  It was obvious that the A-team had done the setup, the stage was nicely dressed and lit.  Suddenly, I noticed that everyone was pointing to the front – must be someone famous – it is!  Sarah Maestri was here – she is an incredibly famous Italian film, television and radio star!!!!  She also just recently released a novel that has become a best seller.  Of course, I was here on time and didn’t get to meet her – ugggg.

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Sarah Maestri and her daughter walking down the red carpet.    DEZPHOTO

Scared you – thought you wouldn’t see her face!  Don’t worry in the next photo we have Giorgio Arlorio, Sarah Maestri, Ugo Gregoretti and our own Sindaco Rinaldi.  H’mmmm I bet you are wondering who Giorgio Arlorio is – just an incredibly successful screenwriter with tons of film and television credits.

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On the big screen, the asino – donkey of yesterday’s Pontelandolfo came to life and licked the screen revealing Comicron!  The wait for the show to start was broken by counting how many times they would repeat the mule action accompanied by some killer swing music. Then the graphic changed.  The music changed.  The lights changed.  I raced home and changed.

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The producers of Comicron are in the film business so the film work and the digitized graphics was top shelf.  Media held our attention and signaled what was going on. You didn’t need a program because the art infused graphics let you know who was on stage and why.  The hosts, Laura Abbaleo and Rino Genovese were real pros and a welcome change from the creepy guy of the night before.  Unfortunately, they had to read an incredibly long list of sponsors but moved it rapidly.  Now those names should have been on an opening graphic and we could have read it while we were waiting.  I got just a tad antsy. The duo really impressed me when I realized they were verbally synching with images that were flashing behind them!

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Two real pros! DEZPHOTO

They opened the show with a home town favorite, Ri Ualanegli Juonior, performing Gioca Dei Bambini.  Sadly, many in the audience left their seats after the little dancers performed.

Young Pontelandolfesi. DEZPHOTO
Young Pontelandolfesi.
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Don’t you leave your seat – check out the dance.  I shot their concert in June and you’ll see Gioca Dei Bambini,  the traditional dance that everyone loves.  The opening is kids playing games – the dancing is a few seconds past that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KENVFeHVNg 

The folks that scurried out of their seats didn’t go far because the kids also performed at the very end of the night.   I was gone by then and really couldn’t grasp why you would have little kids stay up until 12:30 to be the finale of a film festival.  Oh, I get it – audience numbers.  I don’t think the programmers needed to do that.  The audience – like me – was there to see this international slate of short comic films.  The red carpet notables were another big draw.

Speaking of unnecessary fill – the night also featured additional live entertainment of of the well known professional variety. Next up, after the spirited young dancers was comic Antonio Riscetti.  I appreciated his political humor and the fact that he spoke slowly and beautifully enough for me to understand.

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Comic at a Comic Film Festival makes sense! DEZPHOTO

Finally, we got to see the first set of three films. Then a singer came on who had starred in Notre Dame de Paris – It was already 11:00 ish we didn’t need another famous person we wanted to see the next set of films.  I was a bad girl and got up and walked around to get a drink.

Let’s talk about the movies. The professionalism of cinema, writing and editing varied. All were well done but some reminded me of silly student films – you know slap stick and stupid sophomoric ideas. I mean “Mafia University” – come on. I loved the well scripted and thought out Fulgenzia – Until A Name You Do Part.

The next night an additional six films were shown – sans a lot of the extra entertainment.

Young actress Giusy Mancini with famous comic Max Cavallari. See - famous folks both nights! DEZPHOTO
Young actress Giusy Mancini with famous comic Max Cavallari. See – famous folks both nights!
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They flowed on to the grand denouement – the announcement of the winners!

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Two happy directors with their prizes.

The winning young director was Sydney Sibilia.   Lets keep our eyes and ears open for him!   To see all the winners visit the Comicron Facebook page – https://www.facebook.com/groups/comironfilmfestival/

Happy film watching.  I’m going to bed.

La Farmacia – Pontelandolfo’s Family Pharmacy

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo, Practical Matters - Living Abroad

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Whoa – all I can think about are drugs!  With the air waves bombarded with the shut down of the American Government and all that debate over the Affordable Health Care Act – who wouldn’t think of drugs.  Medicine to keep us healthy.  Medicine to keep us sane.  Time to look into the meds that keep us sane and send some to the USA Congress.  It makes me crazy to think that  a country still exists where some retired folks stop taking medicine when they find they are in the Medicare Part D donut hole of higher profit for big pharma.  I am hoping that the Affordable Care Act – if allowed to live on and grow – addresses that too.    OK, enough politics – let’s get down to what it is like for an expat to go to the pharmacy here in Pontelandolfo.

There is only one pharmacy in our village – the sign says Farmacia.  It is not Waldgreens or CVS or any big box monolith run by employees who will never remember your name. It is simply La Farmacia – a family owned and operated small space on the Piazza Roma.  No, they do not sell soda, bread, flip flops, books or toys – there is however a condom dispenser on the nearby exterior wall.  How clever – condoms in a machine available 24/7 right out there in public!

FARMACIA PERONE DOTT. NICOLA

Piazza Roma, 1682027 PONTELANDOLFO (BN)

ORARI DI APERTURA 

Martedì  08:30 – 13:30     16:30 – 20:00
Mercoledì   08:30 – 13:30
Giovedì   08:30 – 13:30    16:30 – 20:00
Venerdì   08:30 – 13:30    16:30 – 20:00
Sabato   08:30 – 13:30   16:30 – 20:00
Domenica   chiuso
Lunedì   08:30 – 13:30   16:30 – 20:00

Before we leave for extended Italian stays we always try to stockpile medicines for my husband.  I’m lucky – I just take a blood pressure med and I made sure to get a thousand samples.  Jack takes a suitcase full of heart, cholesterol and who knows what else stuff.  What I do know is that when Jack’s Medicare Part D falls into the donut hole of death for the poor, his monthly tab for meds can be  $2,000.  Damn, my first car cost less than that.   Rats, Jack just edited this and said I am lying about the $2,000.  Ptblahhhh ( that is me sticking my tongue out at him.)  I got the breakdown for what Jack’s co-pays were before we left for Italy in April – $1718.49.  So I exaggerated a little but hey – some people don’t have $1718.49 – and that is still more than my first car.

Jack knew, before we hit the Italian hills, we couldn’t afford to buy multi-month’s worth of pills in the USA .  So, we spoke to Michelle and  Michael our fabulous local  – non corporate  – pharmacists at Raritan Apothecary.  They said – buy them in Italy – they will be a hell of a lot cheaper.

Blatant Plug – Buy Local

Raritan Apothecary

25 West Somerset Street    Raritan, NJ 08869

I will admit, my drama queen worry mamma surfaced.  What if we couldn’t get Jack all the stuff he needed?  Would I have to send him home?  Get in touch with my wild women roots and make drugs from monkwart?  The first time Jack ran out of a medicine, I brought the empty bottle to la farmacia and introduced myself to the Perone family team of Nicola and Tina, the father/daughter pharmacists who keep Pontelandolfo on a healthy path. (Yes, I did remember the Italian courtesy of saying Buon Giorno as soon as I entered the store.)

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Tina Perone – who always said “Ciao Midge”. That doesn’t happen at CVS.

Dott. Tina Perone recognized me as Carmella’s cousin – the American who dances two nights a week with her mother.  Small villages create the art and activity they need.  Carmella had organized a bi-weekly line dancing excersize  and get together gab fest at the indoor bocce courts.   I love to dance, need excersize and wanted to meet the village women.  It was a win – win – win since it gave Tina and I an immediate connection.

Even without that connection, Jack and I would have been treated like people not numbers.  Dott. Nicola Perone took the empty bottle and then proceeded to research for an incredibly long time the formula and ingredients.  When he had the Italian perfect match he provided Jack with his meds.  We do not have health insurance for Italy.  We are not part of the Italian health care system.  We paid full retail.  Full retail that was freakin’ less than Jack’s bloody co-pay in the USA!  How the hell can that be?

Over the course of months we visited the pharmacy often.  Jack’s meds were always researched and supplied.  The one thing that cost more in Italy was Advil – ibuprofen  – one euro a pill!  Of course they only sell 400 mg of Ibuprofen – not our 200 mg bottles.   Jack needs to pack his Costco Ibuprofen or start using the Italian Spedifen!  Interesting  that vitamins weren’t pushed – apparently most people only take those vitamins that docs prescribe – like vitamin D.  That made me pause and think about how much I spend a month on supplements.

Poor Jack, he loves to walk in the noon day sun up and down the hills.  Too bad the soft corn between his toes hurt like a son of a bitch.  We went into the pharmacy to get the name of a podiatrist and the first thing Dott. Nicola said was take off your shoe.  Jack took off his shoe and Dott. Nicola looked at the giant thing between his toes.  Damn, I wouldn’t even do that and I love the guy.  He gave Jack some rubber things to put between his toes and some gunk to put on the ugly thing.  Did you catch that, the pharmacist got on his knees and checked out my husband’s toes.  You don’t see that at Walmart.

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Dott. Nicola Perone – our fabulous pharmacist!

I am uncomfortable sharing the meds my husband takes so I will only give you one example of price point differentials.  Before we left for Italy Jack got Nexium 40mg – 90 pills – for a $311.95 co-pay or  $3.47 co-pay per pill.  In Italy for the generic exomeprazolo it cost .73 per pill retail – not co-pay. I just checked on line and the exomeprazolo 40 mg for 90 days co-pay at CVS on line comes to .55 per pill.  Retail is less than or a wee bit more than the USA co-pay.  Huh?!!! What?!!!!

Interested in learning more about Italian pharmacies  and brushing up on your Italian –

http://farmacie.tuttosuitalia.com

Le farmacie sono luoghi organizzati dallo stato ma operati da professionisti medici che vendono medicinali solitamente dietro ricetta medica. Con l’istituzione delle parafarmacie è possibile acquistare medicinali equivalenti senza ricetta medica.

Pharmacies are places organized by the state but operated by medical professionals who sell medicines usually with a prescription. With the establishment of drugstores you can buy generic medicines without prescription.  Are big box drugstores coming to Italy?  I hope not.  We did see pharmacy concessions with a separate check out in big grocery stores – kind of a grocery/Walmart store set up.

Just like I won’t shop in a Walmart in the USA and we only get medicine at a local pharmacy – Raritan Apothecary.  When in Italy, I’ll stick with going to see Dott. Nicola and Dott. Tina in our little La Farmacia on the Piazza.  La Farmacia where every “Buon Giorno” is greeted with a smile and you are served by people you can trust.