“Haul out the holly…”. “Jingle bells, jingle bells…”
Buon Natale and Happy New Year. No need to go “dashing through the snow in a one horse open sleigh” to have a happy holiday. Enjoy your family, friends and most importantly yourself this season. May all your dreams and wishes soar.
Pontelandolfo and the Sannio hills are magical at Christmas time. Lights twinkle in piazzas and line Benevento’s grand Corso Garibaldi. On January 3rd and 4th Morcone, our neighboring village, produces an amazing community wide Presepe Viventi – living nativity.
Small eyes peer upward searching for Babbo Natale. Santa’s train scoots around Piazza Roma. The crisp mountain air invigorates everyone who walks around the piazza gossiping with friends, looking at the lights and sipping adult beverages at one of our fabulous bars. Baccalà is soaking in kitchens. Nonna’s are kneading dough. Panettone waits on kitchen counters. Laughter and hugs will soon fill homes. Tis the season of family and friends who are like family.
The feeling of the holiday season is so strong that I really believe I can feel it sweeping across the sea.
Benvenuti a Pontelandolfo Joy for everyone!
Did I mention that the Pontelandolfo spirit of Christmas could be felt across the sea? Not only across the sea, but across the continent. Jack and I are spending our happy holiday season with young Pontelandolfese in Los Angeles. Annalaura Iacovella and Allesandra Rosaria Niedt are hanging out with the elders this Christmas. We send our thoughts of love and good cheer to Pontelandolfese everywhere.
Deck the halls with boughs of holly. Tis the season to be jolly fa la la la, la la la la. Gorge we now on panettone – – -! What else is a girl to do but gorge! This holiday confection seems to chase her around the store? Well, I could wait and not buy one. Impossible. I could buy a few and not eat every slice. The springy tall cake, liberally speckled with raisons, dried citrus and what ever else someone had in the pantry is impossible to ignore. If you don’t eat it all it starts to get stale. Hmm, not so bad stale either. I imagine, a slightly hard piece of deliciousness, soaked in eggs that have been whisked with vanilla and cinnamon, grilled on my Nonna’s cast iron stove top grill and then bathed in real, honest to God maple syrup. Couple that with crispy bacon and it is orgasmic. OMG. Weight Watcher points be damned that is one fine seasonal breakfast, lunch, dinner or snack.
Cross section of the best panettone in the world – from Diglio Forno!
Made by Antonio Diglio in Pontelandolfo, panettone is light, flavorful and simply fabulous. There is usually none left over unless it gets hidden so I don’t eat it all in one day. Making French Toast, all of those lovely spongy holes fill with egg and a slice cooks up heavenly. Sigh….
Perhaps, I should start at the beginning. Did I enjoy panettone as a child? Not that I can remember. When did I first taste the stale crappy ones sold in supermarkets? That would have been in college. Surrounded by all those Italian American women in my dorm from Italian enclaves like Jersey City, Newark and Hoboken I was introduced to the Italian traditions that New Jersey farm girl Midge never experienced. That is also when I discovered, having imbibed in a bit of Maryjane, how stupendous panettone was doctored with jam, jelly, maple syrup, etc. Luckily, later in life when I had a couple of lira in my pocket, I unearthed panettone that was light, airy, sweet but not gooey and wonderful to eat all by itself. Now, spending holiday time in Pontelandolfo I am binging on the fresh panettone from Diglio Forno and other cakes brought to town from the capital of panettone – Milano.
Diglio Forno makes holiday treats that require self control – no one can eat just one.
Who started this tradition of culinary goodness? What follows is an obvious embellishment of the ancient legend. It was a dark and stormy night, the ides of – wait, wait, wrong legends.
The Legend of Panettone: Tis the season to rock around the great hall. A blowout of a Christmas party was happening at the 15th century Milanese court of Ludovico Il Moro. Servers carried out tray after tray of beautifully prepared food. The dessert, which was to be a surprise and an incredible joy, was slowly cooking in the oven. One young kitchen helper was left to guard the oven and make sure the dessert came out pefectly. For whatever reason, maybe he ran out side to see the snow, maybe Gabriella the serving girl stopped and flirted with him, the reason doesn’t matter – he let the dessert burn to a blackened crisp. Caspita! Desperate, the lad looked around the kitchen and remembered he had made a bread with left over dough. He had tossed in dried fruits, lemon peels and whatever edibles were around. He gulped, put it on a fancy tray, powdered it with sugar, and suggested that the cook serve it. The cook walked incredibly slowly into the great hall. Toni was cowering in the doorway. Slices were served. Compliments were tossed and the party was a success. In summary: Toni, a lowly kitchen helper, made a terrible mistake and fearing he’d be served up roasted, was saved by his quick wit and culinary creation made of leftover stuff. He saved the party and introduced the world to “L’è ‘l pan del Toni,” meaning “It’s Toni’s bread, hence the name panettone. The end.
May your holiday season be bright and filled with scrumptious panettone. If you buy one in an Italian market DO NOT SAVE IT. Why let it get stale – EAT IT TODAY. I googled what one can do with panettone and here are some ideas. Panettone bread pudding – obvious but yummy. Panettone tiramisu – hmm not so obvious. What follows is an easy way to use the bread up. On a griddle heat up slices of panettone. Toast it well on both sides. DO NOT PUT IT IN A TOASTER. I have and it warranted a call to the fire house. Put the slices on a plate and pour some Grand Marnier over it. Imagine all the liquors you could experiment with. Heating up a slice opens the door to the refrigerator and pantry because you can spread it with whatever sweet stuff you like. Or, eat it my way – make French toast and douse it in real maple syrup. Do not leave out the crispy bacon.
Email: 9/12 – demonstrates how sharing, grieving and even allowing a spark of humor to fly through cyberspace helped America get through the painful aftermath of 9/11.
Other Rooms founding artistic director, Jonathan Samarro, understands playwrights. Not only is he a produced and published playwright himself, but the organization he leads has been providing playwright support through a variety of initiatives. How do I know? Hey gang, you know I’m a playwright. (Check out my work on Next Stage Press and YouthPLAYS.) I’ve participated in and gained a lot from the resources Jonathan has created.
Accountable Sundays encourages writers – like sometimes lazy me – to commit to writing every Sunday. Write Where Your Are, a workshop that provides feedback during the creation of a new work, has been incredibly helpful. Other Voices is a reading series that features new completed plays. Retro Reads gives playwrights insights into the work of master playwrights through readings and discussions of classic plays. Seriously, we can all learn from the masters.
Jonathan’s latest initiative, Write Where You Are – Pontelandolfo 2024, offers playwrights the space, time, and community needed to move forward in their work. Those of you who follow this blog have already guessed why Pontelandolfo was chosen. It is my home town and where I do most of my writing. For those of you that are new – Pontelandolfo, nestled in the southern Italy Sannio hills, is a small village off the beaten tourist track. The Italian landscape and village life are a great catalyst for creativity.
Pontelandolfo – our favorite place.
Only eight playwrights were selected to participate in Other Rooms’ first retreat. Between October 14 – 23, 2024, the participants will be staying in La Locanda della Presuntuosa, an interesting villa built into a mountain and on acres of land. The villa provides an escape from the trodden tourist track of Italy’s big cities yet is minutes from Piazza Roma, the main piazza, and the center of Pontelandolfo life and lore. Cobblestone streets lead one to a medieval castle tower and cafés, ancient Roman churches and miniature works of art are hidden within an area steeped in history and culture.
Video is a wee bit too long but…
The week begins with a bar crawl to introduce everyone to village life. Hey, they are playwrights did you expect high tea? In addition to time for one’s own daily writing, the retreat offers master classes in playwriting, a stimulating array of traditional cultural activities, introduction to the province’s theatre community, opportunities to socialize with fellow writers and local people. They can even choose to eat lunch with a local family! YUMMMM!
Jonathan and his local team – gulp – which includes both Annarita Mancini and I, wanted to create a writer’s retreat that was different than the usual – meet around a table for a workshop. Chatting with Playwright and Professor Rosemary McLaughlin we decided to hold a master class, Writing Site Specific Work, at a site. The workshop will be held at Altilia, an excavation of a Roman Village in the town of Sepino – Area Archeologica di Saepinum. How cool is that!
Rosemary is the head of the Playwriting Program at Drew University. She received her MFA in Theater Arts from Rutgers’ Mason Gross School and several writing fellowships from the New Jersey State Council on the Arts. Recent plays include Paterson Falls, commissioned by Writers Theatre of New Jersey, about the 1913 silk strike; A More Opportune Time, a contemporary adaptation of Marlowe’s Doctor Faustus; Pushing the River, a comedy about aging, memory and eminent domain; Seven Fishermen, about the deadly consequences of a Westerner’s determination to “save” uncontacted people; and D.O.H. (Dykes of Hoboken), set in the 1980’s, a comedy in spite of being about gentrification and AIDS. Rosemary is also a director, a member of the Dramatists Guild and a board member of the International Centre for Women Playwrights.
Sidney Rushing will be introducing the group to the VOTE method to viable and practical story telling. (Victory, Obstacles Tactics and Emotions) It is method to attack a sagging second act, an inactive protagonist and mine for a more meaningful story. (I really can’t wait to participate in this workshop.)This user friendly process is something you can apply to any story telling medium without angst or trepidation. You will learn how this technique applies to other stories and do the work for your own narrative. We haven’t decided yet where Sidney will be conducting this workshop but know it won’t be in a classroom like setting.
Syd has penned various stage productions in both Chicago, Texas and Los Angeles. He also wrote and performed his one man show Brother’s Tellin’ in Los Angeles earning a NAACP Best Play nomination. It opened up for Lily Tomlin’s show, The Search for Signs for Intelligent Life in the Universe. Syd was then selected for the Mark Taper Playwright’s Program. He went on to a string of produced plays including Aberdeen and Netarine, Akashic Permutations, Zu’s Earth, Unsung Heroes and more. Rushing was honored to be a recipient of the Lorraine Hansberry Distinguished Achievement Award, The 21st Century Voices winner, The Inaugural August Wilson Fellow and a top ten finalist in the Screen Craft Pilot Screenplay Competition 2023. He has taught every grade level from K-12, Prep for College and at Texas State University — named teacher of the year three times in succession within public schools.
Write Where You Are – Pontelandolfo 2024 will be an exciting program for both the participants and the citizens of Pontelandolfo. This year’s participants have been selected but Other Rooms has set up a waiting list. If you would like to be considered for the waiting list or are interested in any of the programs sponsored by Other Rooms, contact Jonathan Samarro – jonathanjsamarro@gmail.com.
Email: 9/12 – demonstrates how sharing, grieving and even allowing a spark of humor to fly through cyberspace helped America get through the painful aftermath of 9/11.
Cook, Eat, Laugh in a small southern Italian village and gain a cultural understanding of what lies behind the great dishes. Stay in an agriturismo that prides itself on farm to table cooking. This culinary experience is for those of you who want to see a part of Italy that is off the crowded tourist trail and taste dishes that go back generations.
This is not your traditional vacation! Spend mornings not in a restaurant or cooking school kitchen, but in a real family’s kitchen, learning the recipes and menus that have been handed down for generations. During this one-week exploration of the food and culture of Southern Italy, almost everything is included.
Includes –
Transportation from the Benevento Train Station
7 nights at Borgo Cerquelle an agriturismo in a centuries old contrada. The double rooms are large with ensuite bathrooms. All participants will be sharing rooms, so ask a friend to come on the adventure.
Welcoming Night Bar Crawl – meet the locals at their favorite hang-outs.
4 half-day cooking classes with local cooks. After preparing the dishes for pranzo or cena you will sit down and eat multi-courses with the family.
English Speaking Translator for all classes and events.
Wine and artesian food tasting at a local vintner
Pontelandolfo Day – open air market, tasting of locally produced products, other local activities and light cena.
Enjoy traditional folk dancing, cheese tossing and bocci.
Last night serata di arriverderci with all the local cooks.
Apron
Written recipes in English.
Regretfully, there are no special dietary considerations. Since you will be cooking and eating in people’s homes, not restaurants, accommodations cannot be made for allergies or preferences. This medieval village has charming cobblestone streets but it is not handicapped accessible. The adventure and experience in the home of local families requires the ability to climb stairs, walk on uneven streets and feel comfortable in a hilly environment.
This unusual competition takes strength, precision and a passion for the past. La Ruzzola is an ancient game played in the streets of Italy. Members of a squadra, team, toss wheels of cheese down a course. Originally it was a well aged pecorino cheese. The early players were probably farmers and shepherds – pecorino cheese is made from sheep’s milk. The winner sent the cheese soaring down a path the farthest. Today, the goal is to reach a specific point with the least number of tosses. I heard someone in the crowd watching the day I was there say it reminded them a bit of golf.
This is a serious sport. Team shirts, buses, fans and all the trappings of a sport were seen in Pontelandolfo this past weekend. Fifty teams from throughout Italy filled the village on Saturday. Some didn’t qualify for Sunday and took their cheese home.
I could talk about how glorious it was on an October weekend to what happened a sport that is so unique. I could ramble on and on about the feeling of comradeship. Or talk about the fun I had watching out of town guests amble up the street following the action. I could but isn’t it better to watch this –
Enjoy!
See you in Pontelandolfo (BN), the best village in the world of cheese throwing.
The summer season is almost over and the shore towns on the Adriatic Sea are slowing down. Jack and I thought that this would be a great time to explore, Termoli, a small city that we have flashed through once or twice before. I booked a hotel that was right on the sea and adjacent to the sea wall of Termoli’s historic center. In the province of Molise, this shore point is less than an hour and a half from our home in Pontelandolfo.
After checking in, sipping aperitivi by the sea, we climbed what felt like a million steps up to centro storico. The ancient city reminded us architecturally of one of our favorite places in Italy, Alghero Sardegna. (Shout out to the best language school ever – Alghero’s Pintadera.) We wandered the cobblestone streets, stared at the sea, and then I froze – there was a wee alley festooned with white lights, tables classically set and with an artsy vibe that took us back to Venice. (Read the blog Searching for Goldoni and you’ll understand.)
I decided that we absolutely had to eat there. Since it was only 7:30 PM, and way too early to eat, I needed to make a reservation for the yet unnamed space. Around the corner from the alley, we saw a handsome, curly haired man sitting by the restaurant’s front door. He smiled. I smiled and asked if there was a table for two available tonight in the alley.
“Si, signora – quale il sua nome?”
“Midge.”
“Midge?” He looked at me quizzically and probably thought, “Her mother named her after a small annoying fly?”
I shrugged and speaking the barely uttered truth said, “Margherita.”
He scrawlled “Margherita” on a scrap of paper, handed it to me and told me to choose a table, put my name under the water glass and come back whenever we wanted dinner. Then –
“Tu sei inglese?”
“No, sono americana.”
“Da dove?”
“New Jersey – ma vicino Philadelphia.”
“La mia moglie parle “Americano. Lei da Rochester – vicino New Jersey?”
Then and there it was decided that I should meet his wife! I mean, maybe somewhere between Rochester and New York/Jersey we might have run into each other during our decadent youths in some bar or another.
Jack and I continued our pre-dinner passeggiata and tried to keep our tourist faces at bay. The stillness of the old town, the colors of the buildings, the scent of the sea and the warm breeze made it a beautiful evening. Eventually, we made our way back to –
“Jack, what was the name of the restaurant?”
“I don’t know. You were talking to the owner. Don’t you remember how to get back there?”
“Of course I do.”
(I mean we only meandered up and down a few narrow vicoli, posed for a selfie near the sea wall and entered three different piazza since we made the reservation. )
“I will swiftly guide us back,” I lied.
Yes, I lied. But since the centro storico is enclosed by a wall, I managed to guide us back to Sognadoro, Via Rocco Mugnano,3 in Termoli! (For purposes of the blog, Midge, the smart-ass, looked up the address.)
We got back, found our reserved table waiting, looked at each other and smiled. What a cool environment. A young gregarious waiter appeared, brought our local white wine and asked if we knew what we wanted. What happened next couldn’t have been played out better by Netflix. Just as Jack started to say “tonno,” the owner, Francesco Sciscillo, came over, took away the menus and told us to wait.
We waited, he returned with a fish that was so fresh it was still jumping. You are all wondering what kind of fish it was. I am too. We are calling it the former alive fish called X. X had been very recently caught, right here in the Adriatic Sea.
Rats – I took the video in the wrong direction but you’ll get the point.
The thinly sliced fresh X was drizzled in olive oil from Francesco’s trees and spritzed with a dash of fresh lemon. Who knew that something so simple and swiftly prepared would be absolutely incredible.
Next appeared calamari fritti. Jack tries calamari everywhere we go. When I saw it, my fork of its own volition dashed into the plate. Tender, tender, tender. I immediately noticed that the calamari had not been cut into rings but had been sliced into rectangles. In the future, I too will prepare them this way. Each bite was full of flavor. They had been be very lightly coated in flower and flash fried. Yummmm.
Enjoyed more than you can imagine.
I don’t remember what else we ate, I do remember an enjoyable night spent in conversation and laughter. A young woman approached the table, introduced herself as Anna and said that her mother would be getting out of work soon and was anxious to meet us. The effervescent mom, Patrizia, regaled us with tales of making the transition between life in Rochester, New York and Termoli. The building that housed the restaurant had been in her husband’s family for generations. There was such pride in her voice as she spoke of his family and her family. A photo of Francesco’s mother is prominently placed inside the restaurant. Obviously, the sea and what it provides plays a preeminent role in their lives. She is climbing onto the fishing pier.
We were so enamored with the food, setting and family that the next day we returned for lunch. The entire family was seated at the “family table” and greeted us warmly. As the only customers, I suggested we simply eat what Francesco was serving the others. What a smart move! Polpette, ground fish and spices formed into but not to be confused with packaged fish sticks, were served in a rich red sauce. Next was a simple but tasty dish of chicory, red pepper and sepia. Great conversation, perfect lunch and then I saw something I didn’t like. Obvious tourists stopped outside the restaurant, pulled out their phones and stood there reading. Then they smirked a little and left. Smack me in the head – they were looking at reviews. Why would they leave? I quickly scanned the obvious sites. WHAT??? The place only had a few reviews on each site but there was a theme – rude owner, bad food, lousy atmosphere. TOTAL BULLSHIT! All we could think of was that the scant reviews were posted by someone who was jealous or opening their own place. Lesson learned – DON’T TRUST REVIEWS. I never look at reviews. That is a lie – wow two lies in one blog. That same night I asked at the hotel what place they would recommend for dinner. Then I looked the restaurant up – 5 stars everywhere. We ate there. 0 stars from us – boring tourist fare. The learned lesson was reinforced. In our quest for meals, we will continue to wander back lanes of towns until we find a place that just calls to us.
As we walked out the door that day, we looked at each other and both knew that Sognadoro would be on the top of our “lets go for a ride and eat something wonderful” short list.
Pontelandolfese and lovers of Italy wherever you are – check out my tourist guide to Pontelandolfo’s historic center – written in English and Italian.Or simply enjoy the life we lead in Italy by reading my humorous travel memoir.
Whaaaaat? You want me to climb up those two thousand year old steps to look at some little thingy that means some rich dude lived here?
Not a rich dude’s crest but the Wind God!
That is exactly what I want you to do! Visit Pontelandolfo and explore the historic center by searching for gli stemmi – crests. The adventure in urban trekking will be fascinating.
Urban Trekking is happening in cities across the world. Annarita Mancini and I worked together to create a tourism guide for our medieval village that brings urban trekking to a different level. I’m the author and Annarita was the translator. Together we have published An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo. This guidebook provides readers with clues to unearth tiny pieces of art hidden throughout the village. It can be a team sport with trekkers challenging each other to find the most crests or a slow meditative look and walk.
This is not your typical tour guide. Like I would do something typical – yawn I’m bored thinking about it. You all know I spend a lot of time in Pontelandolfo blogging about life in a small Italian town. Some days I need a reason to get off my butt, leave the office and wend my way through the ancient alleys. My search for the crests was a great incentive to walk through the old part of town and get a sense of what life was like for my ancestors.
Annarita Mancini, who is an exceptional teacher of Italian, noted that having the clues written in both English and Italian not only make the book useful to more people but is an excellent way to explore a new language.
It really took a village to create this book. One day writing in the Pontelandolfo Library, I discovered a stack of faded little blue pamphlets called Stemmi gentilizi aPontelandolfo written by researchers/authors Litterio Villari and Pia Piacquadio. With a donation to the library, I grabbed a pamphlet and accompanied by Maria Vittoria Albini raced out of the building in search of a crest.
Battista Family
Local historians Carmine Fusco and Antimo Albini assisted in the project by reading the draft and adding bits of local lore. Pontelandolfo residents (and Nonna’s Mulberry Tree subscribers – hint hint) Mariann Prigioni and Jeff Millard had the trekking task of following the clues to see if one could really find all the crests.
Now, local visitors to Pontelandolfo can get a copy of An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfoand also do some urban trekking. It is only an E-book now. Hard cover to follow when I get to formatting it. Yikes, who knew self publishing would be work?
E-readers will follow the clues and photographs of family crests on their phones. Actually, I think this is the best way to use the book. On your phone you can enlarge the photos and refer to the map. This quest for the crests offers a unique and captivating experience that is challenging, fun, creative and exciting! Perfect for adults, children and families. So, grab your camera, walk around beautiful Pontelandolfo, discover the riches of history and unearth hidden ancient traditions.
Book 1 in our Urban Trekking Series – Any town want to hire me to do theirs?
E-book versions of An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo are currently available on Amazon, Barnes and Noble, Kobo and other retailers.
Not just any Norma but Pasta alla Norma! Who knew that my favorite summer vegetable – melanzana – could be part of a pasta plate so scrumptious? Just thinking about it puts a satisfied smile on my face. Probably all of you knew about the Sicilian primo piatto. A delicate blend of eggplant, pasta, crushed tomatoes and… Finding Norma for me was an incredible accident or a woo woo moment.
My niece, Alessandra, and I were exploring Benevento. Our provincial capital is a fabulous city – particularly the historic center. Walled in by Mura Lonogobarde it is full of museums, art, shops and of course bars. Early in the day, we parked in Piazza Risorgimento, stopped for collezione at – a bar, stared down Corso Garibaldi and planned our unplanned day. Knowing we had to walk off the cappuccini and croissants, we started our exploration by walking around an interesting old looking building. Actually, it was not just old but ancient. The huge tower that attracted us was built by the Lombards in the 6th century. Two guards were outside – young and gorgeous I might add – so we figured the place housed something precious. It was the Rocca dei Rettoi e Giardini della Rocca. That translates to the fortress of the rector. The exterior garden was lush and offered an amazing vista of the city below. “Attenti” we heard. Looking over at the older gentleman who had bellowed, I wondered if we were standing too close to the edge of the overview. Whoosh – first the sound and then nooooo – the water. He had started the sprinkler system. Laughing but wet, we skidaddled over to the building. Shadowing us was one of the guards. Hmm, what wonderful stuff must be housed here. Or was he shadowing my gorgeous niece? There was an internal courtyard that is used for cultural events and features some ancient pieces of architectural sculptures. Slabs outside and inside, I’m told, were a collection from the ancient Via Traiana. The advertised museum was closed. We found il bagno, used the necessary resources and moved on.
The Torrione is 28 meters tall.
A bit above the tower was Villa Comunale. I kept looking for a big house but Villa Comunale is the name of the park that overlooks the city. One can meander on shaded paths, sit on a bench to watch the world go by or some nights listen to classical music under the stars. We found the bandstand but couldn’t figure out if people brought their own chairs, stood around or if the city set up chairs. One of the things I love about the Italians here is their ability to reuse, repurpose and create something from nothing. At the entrance to the park is this interesting piece of art. Is it a serpent, a reindeer, a crocodile, a…
This fallen tree becomes a work of art! Looks prehistoric to me.
Corso Garibaldi is a wide avenue that has been closed to traffic. It meanders down hill from Villa Comunale all the way to Piazza Cardinale Pacca and when one is walking downhill feels like it is a scant half mile long. When a woman in her third act is walking back up the hill is at least a pazzilion miles long. It is full of history and Italian designer shops. Being modern women with no purpose, we started with the history. I had never visited Santa Sofia, a small Roman Catholic Church that was built in the late eighth century. Thank the goddesses, no one tore it down to put up a McDees. In 2011, as part of a group of seven buildings inscribed as Longobards in Italy – Places of the Power 568-774 AD, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sitting on the ancient wooden benches – Alessandra gave me the “you are my pazzo zia” look because I mentioned that I actually felt my grandmom next to me. But I did! To attend festivals in Benevento, she and my aunt and uncles would walk all the way from Pontelandolfo! They camped out in fields along the way. I figure a significant place like Chiesa Santa Sofia, had to be a stop along the way. Sitting there was a powerful and our first woo woo moment.
Baptismal Font in Santa Sofia
Time to hit designer shops – not that the museums aren’t a draw, they really are. If you don’t believe me, go to the Campania Tourism Website and check it out. We enjoyed shopping with only our eyes so much that the morning raced by. Growls from our bellies made us realize it was time for lunch. Alessandra opened up the Trip Adviser app and looked for local restaurants. She found one that had 300 positive reviews and was ALLEGEDLY close by. We walked and walked and I bitched and bitched and then we found it. A takeaway place that, though they obviously have lots of friends,looked to smarmy to enter. We used our native noses and found our way back to Corso Garibaldi. Now down which tiny medieval alley will we possibly find a restaurant? WAHHHH – that was Zia Midge crying. We couldn’t find anything. Time to do aggressive searching. I went into Arcos, a wonderful museum of modern art and Egyptology. The man behind the counter was so nice.
I’m not from here, I just work here and I don’t eat here.
Ok, Ok, I did not give up. You may not eat here but must have heard of other people going somewhere to eat.
Well there is a place around the corner, directly behind the museum.
Fainting with hnger we dragged ourselves behind the museum and saw a sign that said, Trattoria Santa Sofia. We walked in to a fairly empty space and wondered what we had gotten into. The owner escorted us to a dark room with about five tables preset. The only diner was a priest. As Alessandra went to sit down – her chair moved. A magical move – enough to feel but not enough to make her fall on her butt. We looked at each other. Was it the priest? Santa Sofia? The owner walked over and recited the meals of the day. We both heard the word melanzane and still weirded by the chair said we would take whatever was made with eggplant.
Alessandra looked at me with dreamy eyes and said,” I hope it is Pasta alla Norma.”
Who is Norma? A mom of a pal?
Aunt Midge, Pasta alla Norma is in every Italian restaurant in Los Angeles.
(Obviously, she lives in LA and is a casting director in the biz.) I had never heard of it. She explained that as a vegetarian – yeah, LA – she always looks for scrumptious meatless meals. Then she described Pasta alla Norma – a heavy pasta with a light fresh tomato sauce, sautéed eggplant and onions with bits of fresh mozzarella teasing the palate. She sighed. Seriously, a big sigh for a pasta.
A lovely salad came out first and we annihilated it. The accompanying bread was wonderful too. Looking over my shoulder at the owner carrying in plates of pasta, Alessandra began to smile and clap with delight. She knew exactly what the pasta plates were – Pasta alla Norma. We ate it slowly and with great dignity. Savoring each morsel of pasta, eggplant and mozzarella.
There are lots of different recipes on line for this dish, which is a Sicilian staple. Many have ricotta cheese, others do not. Our wonderful gastronomic moment was sans ricotta cheese. We will return to Trattoria Santa Sofia located at Via Stefano Borgia, 7 in Benevento. Don’t be confused but – Trattoria Santa Sofia is right next to Chiesa del Santissimo Salvatore!
Who knew that Norma would also become my favorite chef. Norma, I don’t know who you are, where you lived or how you did this but Grazie mille.
Annarita Mancini and I finished our Pontelandolfo Guide! An Italian Treasure Hunt – The Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo! Una Caccia al Tesoro Italiana – Alla Ricerca Degli Stemmi di Pontelandolfo!
Nonna's Mulberry Tree 