Jack’s Birthday Almost Staycation

Dear easygoing Jack has one giant quirk. He hates birthday parties, birthday hats, birthday presents – just about anything that has to do with birthdays. Now, me, I adore all the bellowing, trimming, gifts, chaos and energy of everything birthday. Since Jack’s birthday is mid-August, we have developed a compromise. Simply called, “Jack’s Birthday Staycation.” There are no gifts, no whistles no party favors. However, the staycation is not at home but fifteen minutes away at Hotel Ristorante Il Grottino.

Jack may hate birthdays but he loves cake from Pontelandolfo’s Diglio Forno!

Why drive a scant few kilometers up another mountain for the staycation? The place is fabulous. There is a beautifully landscaped pool surrounded by mountain vistas, an outdoor seating restaurant area with linen tablecloths – OMG I sound like a snob – comfortable rooms with balconies, and the food is terrific. For the past few years, to celebrate another trip around the sun, we have booked a room for a few nights at Il Grottino. Michele and Giovanna, our hosts are friendly, accommodating and love what they have built. In other words, it is perfect for Jack. (Is it too self serving to say it is also perfect for Jack’s adorable wife?)

Each morning we got up promptly – ha ha – slowly, tossed on a bathing suit and wandered downstairs. The hotel has an elevator so folks in their second and third acts can easily get to the upstairs rooms. There waiting for us was a set table with croissants and the smiling Giovanna. Soon cappucini ( no spell checkers it is not misspelled – that is plural for cappucino) arrived with whatever else we wanted. The blue sky over the mountain, cool mountain breeze and lovely piped in music made the morning bright. We wandered to the pool and did what we do best on vacation.

Read! For me, read and wrote. This book is fabulous and written by my pal Adele.

I am working on a couple of plays. ‘I’m Ann” is about a Sicilian woman’s experiences in the USA. “Born to the Sea” is an exciting new musical about the Swedish VASA ship. And – this is super exciting – my 9/11 themed play “Email: 9/12” is being produced in 2026 by a company in the Netherlands. I am creating a monologue or two that takes place in Den Haag. All projects needed a breath of fresh air and Il Grottino provides just that. Jack read, snoozed pool side and smiled a lot.

Each day between snoozing, reading and writing we ate seafood lunches outdoors under the pergola. I love impepata di cozze, mussels steamed and served with a dash of pepper and their own juices. Giovanna served me an enormous bowl and I grinned bigger than Jack grins. Our New Jersey friend Maryann C. was visiting so she got to come to Il Grottino too. She had what I thought was a riff on my favorite dish, La Zuppa di Cozze. The mussels were steamed with tomatoes and served with points of focaccia. It too was exceptional.

Il Grottino is known locally for its metre long pizza. The place was packed one night with whole families there for pizza. What else could we do but order a three foot plus long pizza. Cleverly, the super charged pizza is divided by toppings. Jack loves pizza Margherita, Maryann wanted vegetables and I only eat pizza con tonno. The thin crusted mammoth pizza arrived with sections of each topping. All three of us dug right in and enjoyed each bite.

One of the reasons we come back each year is that the food is great. We also come back because the staff and owners are willing to go the extra mile to make guests comfortable. The real reason – being there makes Jack smile.

Happy Birthday Staycation to Jack. Thank you to Il Grottino, Giovanna and Michele.

Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Midge Guerrera

Need an Italian fix? Two thoughts – one pick up a copy of my humorous travel memoir – Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos – sip wine and feel the moments. Second, think about Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo next year.

Urban Trekking in Pontelandolfo!

Whaaaaat? You want me to climb up those two thousand year old steps to look at some little thingy that means some rich dude lived here?

Not a rich dude’s crest but the Wind God!

That is exactly what I want you to do! Visit Pontelandolfo and explore the historic center by searching for gli stemmi – crests. The adventure in urban trekking will be fascinating.

Urban Trekking is happening in cities across the world. Annarita Mancini and I worked together to create a tourism guide for our medieval village that brings urban trekking to a different level. I’m the author and Annarita was the translator. Together we have published An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo. This guidebook provides readers with clues to unearth tiny pieces of art hidden throughout the village. It can be a team sport with trekkers challenging each other to find the most crests or a slow meditative look and walk.

This is not your typical tour guide. Like I would do something typical – yawn I’m bored thinking about it. You all know I spend a lot of time in Pontelandolfo blogging about life in a small Italian town. Some days I need a reason to get off my butt, leave the office and wend my way through the ancient alleys. My search for the crests was a great incentive to walk through the old part of town and get a sense of what life was like for my ancestors.

Annarita Mancini, who is an exceptional teacher of Italian, noted that having the clues written in both English and Italian not only make the book useful to more people but is an excellent way to explore a new language.

It really took a village to create this book. One day writing in the Pontelandolfo Library, I discovered a stack of faded little blue pamphlets called Stemmi gentilizi a Pontelandolfo written by researchers/authors Litterio Villari and Pia Piacquadio. With a donation to the library, I grabbed a pamphlet and accompanied by Maria Vittoria Albini raced out of the building in search of a crest.

Battista Family

Local historians Carmine Fusco and Antimo Albini assisted in the project by reading the draft and adding bits of local lore. Pontelandolfo residents (and Nonna’s Mulberry Tree subscribers – hint hint) Mariann Prigioni and Jeff Millard had the trekking task of following the clues to see if one could really find all the crests.

Now, local visitors to Pontelandolfo can get a copy of An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo and also do some urban trekking. It is only an E-book now. Hard cover to follow when I get to formatting it. Yikes, who knew self publishing would be work?

E-readers will follow the clues and photographs of family crests on their phones. Actually, I think this is the best way to use the book. On your phone you can enlarge the photos and refer to the map. This quest for the crests offers a unique and captivating experience that is challenging, fun, creative and exciting! Perfect for adults, children and families. So, grab your camera, walk around beautiful Pontelandolfo, discover the riches of history and unearth hidden ancient traditions.

Book 1 in our Urban Trekking Series – Any town want to hire me to do theirs?

E-book versions of An Italian Treasure Hunt; the Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo are currently available on Amazon, Barnes and Noble, Kobo and other retailers.

Ci vediamo in Piazza Roma a Pontelandolfo!

Midge Guerrera

Where Has Norma Been All My Life?

Not just any Norma but Pasta alla Norma! Who knew that my favorite summer vegetable – melanzana – could be part of a pasta plate so scrumptious? Just thinking about it puts a satisfied smile on my face. Probably all of you knew about the Sicilian primo piatto. A delicate blend of eggplant, pasta, crushed tomatoes and… Finding Norma for me was an incredible accident or a woo woo moment.

My niece, Alessandra, and I were exploring Benevento. Our provincial capital is a fabulous city – particularly the historic center. Walled in by Mura Lonogobarde it is full of museums, art, shops and of course bars. Early in the day, we parked in Piazza Risorgimento, stopped for collezione at – a bar, stared down Corso Garibaldi and planned our unplanned day. Knowing we had to walk off the cappuccini and croissants, we started our exploration by walking around an interesting old looking building. Actually, it was not just old but ancient. The huge tower that attracted us was built by the Lombards in the 6th century. Two guards were outside – young and gorgeous I might add – so we figured the place housed something precious. It was the Rocca dei Rettoi e Giardini della Rocca. That translates to the fortress of the rector. The exterior garden was lush and offered an amazing vista of the city below. “Attenti” we heard. Looking over at the older gentleman who had bellowed, I wondered if we were standing too close to the edge of the overview. Whoosh – first the sound and then nooooo – the water. He had started the sprinkler system. Laughing but wet, we skidaddled over to the building. Shadowing us was one of the guards. Hmm, what wonderful stuff must be housed here. Or was he shadowing my gorgeous niece? There was an internal courtyard that is used for cultural events and features some ancient pieces of architectural sculptures. Slabs outside and inside, I’m told, were a collection from the ancient Via Traiana. The advertised museum was closed. We found il bagno, used the necessary resources and moved on.

The Torrione is 28 meters tall.

A bit above the tower was Villa Comunale. I kept looking for a big house but Villa Comunale is the name of the park that overlooks the city. One can meander on shaded paths, sit on a bench to watch the world go by or some nights listen to classical music under the stars. We found the bandstand but couldn’t figure out if people brought their own chairs, stood around or if the city set up chairs. One of the things I love about the Italians here is their ability to reuse, repurpose and create something from nothing. At the entrance to the park is this interesting piece of art. Is it a serpent, a reindeer, a crocodile, a…

This fallen tree becomes a work of art! Looks prehistoric to me.

Corso Garibaldi is a wide avenue that has been closed to traffic. It meanders down hill from Villa Comunale all the way to Piazza Cardinale Pacca and when one is walking downhill feels like it is a scant half mile long. When a woman in her third act is walking back up the hill is at least a pazzilion miles long. It is full of history and Italian designer shops. Being modern women with no purpose, we started with the history. I had never visited Santa Sofia, a small Roman Catholic Church that was built in the late eighth century. Thank the goddesses, no one tore it down to put up a McDees. In 2011, as part of a group of seven buildings inscribed as Longobards in Italy – Places of the Power 568-774 AD, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sitting on the ancient wooden benches – Alessandra gave me the “you are my pazzo zia” look because I mentioned that I actually felt my grandmom next to me. But I did! To attend festivals in Benevento, she and my aunt and uncles would walk all the way from Pontelandolfo! They camped out in fields along the way. I figure a significant place like Chiesa Santa Sofia, had to be a stop along the way. Sitting there was a powerful and our first woo woo moment.

Baptismal Font in Santa Sofia

Time to hit designer shops – not that the museums aren’t a draw, they really are. If you don’t believe me, go to the Campania Tourism Website and check it out. We enjoyed shopping with only our eyes so much that the morning raced by. Growls from our bellies made us realize it was time for lunch. Alessandra opened up the Trip Adviser app and looked for local restaurants. She found one that had 300 positive reviews and was ALLEGEDLY close by. We walked and walked and I bitched and bitched and then we found it. A takeaway place that, though they obviously have lots of friends,looked to smarmy to enter. We used our native noses and found our way back to Corso Garibaldi. Now down which tiny medieval alley will we possibly find a restaurant? WAHHHH – that was Zia Midge crying. We couldn’t find anything. Time to do aggressive searching. I went into Arcos, a wonderful museum of modern art and Egyptology. The man behind the counter was so nice.

I’m not from here, I just work here and I don’t eat here.

Ok, Ok, I did not give up. You may not eat here but must have heard of other people going somewhere to eat.

Well there is a place around the corner, directly behind the museum.

Fainting with hnger we dragged ourselves behind the museum and saw a sign that said, Trattoria Santa Sofia. We walked in to a fairly empty space and wondered what we had gotten into. The owner escorted us to a dark room with about five tables preset. The only diner was a priest. As Alessandra went to sit down – her chair moved. A magical move – enough to feel but not enough to make her fall on her butt. We looked at each other. Was it the priest? Santa Sofia? The owner walked over and recited the meals of the day. We both heard the word melanzane and still weirded by the chair said we would take whatever was made with eggplant.

Alessandra looked at me with dreamy eyes and said,” I hope it is Pasta alla Norma.”

Who is Norma? A mom of a pal?

Aunt Midge, Pasta alla Norma is in every Italian restaurant in Los Angeles.

(Obviously, she lives in LA and is a casting director in the biz.) I had never heard of it. She explained that as a vegetarian – yeah, LA – she always looks for scrumptious meatless meals. Then she described Pasta alla Norma – a heavy pasta with a light fresh tomato sauce, sautéed eggplant and onions with bits of fresh mozzarella teasing the palate. She sighed. Seriously, a big sigh for a pasta.

A lovely salad came out first and we annihilated it. The accompanying bread was wonderful too. Looking over my shoulder at the owner carrying in plates of pasta, Alessandra began to smile and clap with delight. She knew exactly what the pasta plates were – Pasta alla Norma. We ate it slowly and with great dignity. Savoring each morsel of pasta, eggplant and mozzarella.

There are lots of different recipes on line for this dish, which is a Sicilian staple. Many have ricotta cheese, others do not. Our wonderful gastronomic moment was sans ricotta cheese. We will return to Trattoria Santa Sofia located at Via Stefano Borgia, 7 in Benevento. Don’t be confused but – Trattoria Santa Sofia is right next to Chiesa del Santissimo Salvatore!

Who knew that Norma would also become my favorite chef. Norma, I don’t know who you are, where you lived or how you did this but Grazie mille.

Ci vediamo!

Midge – www.midgeguerrera.com

Annarita Mancini and I finished our Pontelandolfo Guide!
An Italian Treasure Hunt –
The Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo!
Una Caccia al Tesoro Italiana –
Alla Ricerca Degli Stemmi di Pontelandolfo!

Click Here for the E-book which is perfect exploring.

Paestum – Just Go There!

Somedays start off being just another day in Southern Italy and then – BOOM – you discover that a scant hour and half from Pontelandolfo there is an archeological site that is so spectacular it warrants visiting multiple times. Parco Archeologico di Paestum and Velia is located in the province of Salerno. Tickets to enter this massive park are only €12 each. In the winter you can explore the dramatic site for only €6 – which is what it also costs to park for one day. There are reduced rates for families too. If I lived a bit closer I’d buy a season pass for €20 and, just to imagine the stories of those that lived there, go often.

To put the site in perspective, I must use a quote I found in the book, “Guide to the Archaeological Site Paestum From Building Site to Temple.”

It is as if a god had built his house here
with huge blocks of stone.

Friedrich Nietzsche

Towards the end of the 7th century BC a group of Greeks (colonists from Sybaris) hopped on a ship, guided of course by the god Poseidon, and decided that the fertile valley of Sele was an incredible place to settle. Settle they did. Guess what they called the new city? During the VII century, Poseidonia was amazing. Majestic temples to ones favorite gods and goddesses were built. Remarkably, they still stand! No one paved this over and put up a parking lot. The temple of Neptune is allegedly one of the best-preserved Greek temples from the 5th-4th century BC. (Am I the only one who gets confused by the BC years running backwards?). There are a good number of incredibly well preserved divine, everyday, and community dwellings at Paestum.

Ladies, imagine, there was a huge bath house and pool for women only. Rumor had it, swimming there increased fertility. I wondered if women started the rumor so they could escape for a day of poolside lounging.

No, I did not stand in the center of the amphitheater and recite lines from Medea. But I did walk around it and marveled once more at the construction of these fabulous structures without the use of modern building equipment.

Besides the acres and acres of “ruins” that don’t look like they are ready to tumble down anytime soon, there is a museum that contains the artifacts found on the site. We spent the day wandering through the forum, temples, and other structures and forgot about visiting the museum. Great excuse to go back.

It is an easy drive from Naples or one can take the train. I think that would be fun to try. There is a stop near the archeological site.

Poseidonia, was conquered by the Lucanians who changed the name to Paiston. Bang, the Romans took control in BC 273 and changed the name to Paestum. The place is magical – no matter what it it is called. Think about adding Paestum to your Italian adventures.

Looking for a summer read? If you already read “Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos” think about reading one of my plays! Visit my website and see the list. Thanks.

Midge Guerrera

#ArtToThePeople

That title makes you want to raise your first in the air – Huzzah – right? In my mind’s memory book, I can still see and cheer on the bigger than life puppets that led sixties political rallies. Gorilla theatre took our messages to the streets. In Milan and being anti-tourist site snobs, Jack and I – OK maybe it was me – saw #ArtToThePeople on a poster and I had to find out what was happening. It turned out Art to The People was a fifteen minute walk away in Bicocca, Milan’s old industrial neighborhood.

The Pirelli Hangar Bicocca Foundation, located at Via Chiese, 2 in Milan, is committed to bringing contemporary art to everyone. #ArtToThePeople is their tag line and they have been doing it for close to twenty years. Everyone actually can get to see the art! The museum is free! Free, gratis, costs niente, free. There is no cursory box with a volunteer looking at you to toss in some $$$$. Artists displayed in the 15,000 square meters of exhibition space are both Italian and international. There is a focus on public engagement and a calendar of cultural events, music, talks and films.

As we walked from our hotel, the industrial zone felt very hip and safe. There were young couples and school groups wandering to the museum. I love the fact that Italian students get to see, feel and understand the arts of all the eras that surround them. Larger than life graffiti was the first thing we saw. It reminded me of the street side sculptures that lead patrons to New Jersey’s “Grounds for Sculpture.” That well placed urban “graffiti” let us know our walk was winding down.

At the entrance, still not believing it was totally free, we were greeted and told which building to walk towards. The museum is well staffed with pleasant guard/guides – except for the creep in the cafe who wouldn’t let Jack sit down while I was at the counter getting our orders.

Take a breath Midge, don’t condemn the place because your husband’s back was acting up and some cretin wouldn’t let him sit.

Sigh, why not?

Because it isn’t a fair assessment.

Man, I hate it when my conscience blasts rational thoughts in my ear.

The place is enormous and sadly we didn’t see the permanent exhibition by Anselm Kiefer. The Seven Heavenly Palaces is a site-specific installation that according to the website was “drawn from the palaces described in the ancient Hebrew treatise, the Book of Palaces/Sanctuaries.” The pictures on line are so interesting that the next time we are in Milan, I will go back. Go to the website and look at it. The lesson learned is that when one is given a map of a museum, one should read it and not bumble along.

The exhibits we did see were in huge spaces. The artists were Gian Maria Tosatti and Ann Veronica Janssens. I wandered, I read the brochures and – and – and for me – the work was almost as strange as the room of dirt that was funded by the Dia Foundation in New York. Really, look it up – we paid to smell and see an apartment with rooms filled with dirt. Ooops, Jack just pointed out that it was called the Earth Room. It was a room of dirt. But hey, to each his own. Instead of relying on my tainted appreciation of modern works, let us just move on to the video.

Italy is a wonderful place to explore and it is exciting to find hidden gems like the Pirelli Hangar Bicocca Gallery. I will go back. Enjoy your journey!

Ci vediamo!

Midge

Theaters and Teachers
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How about something based on an Italian character?

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Mamma Mia La Befana?!

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Tenuta Vannulo and a Perfect Day!

My weather app tells me it is still raining in Pontelandolfo, but here in Paestum, Cilento the sun is shining and we are cozily ensconced in glamorous lounge chairs facing a luscious garden and silent pool. (More about this place in a separate blog.) A perfect afternoon after the perfect morning. We set off from Pontelandolfo at 8:00 AM with our friends Mariann and Jeff. (Well getting up at 6:00 AM to be packed and out the door by 8:00 AM was not toooo perfect.). Our goal was to drive down hill to the Province of Salerno and visit a magical organic farm, Tenuta Vannulo.

Buffalo milk cappuccino was a great start to our day.

When I think of organic farms yielding great produce, I immediately think of my favorite family farmers Andrea and Tony at New Jersey’s Martenette Farm. I need them to come and check out this place. Tenuta Vannulo is a different type of farm – a much bigger operation. This farm, raising hundreds of water buffalo and lots of produce, is something to behold. For over three generations, beginning in the early 1900s, It has been in the Palmieri family. Even though it is a huge operation, the family is still involved. We spotted the 70 something Senore Palmieri out in the kitchen garden with a hoe. I would encourage all members of Organic Farming Associations who want to experience something that creates yummy products and attracts bus loads of locals and tourists alike to head to Southern Italy.

Tenuta Vannulo is not only an incredibly efficient modern working buffalo farm but also operates a number of buffalo driven shops and a restaurant. Of course there is a caseificio. Locals stop in for the freshest of cheeses – mozzarella, bocconcini, aversana, treccia, scamorza, burro and more – all made with the milk of bufalo indiano. No industrial production here! Everything is hand made with a limited production. The farm’s goal is to make enough to sell just to their local market.

If you are a kid getting off one of the ten buses filled with school groups that we saw, you began whining for the Yogurteria e Cioccolateria the moment you stepped off the bus. Actually, the whines were delightful, in multiple part harmonies and all the kids were sporting the same color cap. I figure it is easier for teachers to track their class if they sport the same color. Yup, these kids didn’t care about the mozzarella they wanted buffalo gelato! The gelato is just the beginning. One can get un caffè, cappuccino, fresh baked products, amazing puddings, candies – I can’t go on. My strictly enforced diet made me miss tasting but not drooling. (Don’t tell my diet buddies but I did have a cappucino made with buffalo milk. I wish I could buy this milk! So creamy, yet light – it has more fat than cow milk.)

The farm has more to look at than fields of produce, water buffalos, and wonderful outdoor spaces, they make and sell designer purses! The designer bags and goods, made on the premises by leather workers are fabulous. I controlled my self and went home without one but I may go back. Imagine saying – “oh this old thing – it’s made of buffalo hide from a wee artigianal shop near Salerno.” 🤣😂

Me thinks I talk too much. My effusive voice driven by what a cool place this is. I will stop typing. Video tells it best –

Now that you’ve seen the majestic creatures, let me tell you what our great guide, Rosaria, told us about the water buffalos. (Midge I thought you were done talking?) Back to the buffalo – they are smart! Three hundred of the milk producers reside in the ginormous stable – unfettered! They only ever take homeopathic medicines. They wake up in the morning to classical music. Buffalos like ritual – they have habits. Once they have chosen their bed – yes a foam mattress – they sleep in the same spot daily. If a buffalo feels the need to be milked, she strolls over to the self milking machine. Each buffalo has a micro chip so the farmers know who has been milked and how much they produced – it averages nine liters a day. Feeling hot a sticky? Mosey over to the shower for a cool down spray. Need a back rub? Head over to the car wash style rubdown machine. Space dirty? The cleaning crew comes by multiple times a day. Mariann laughingly said, ” in my next life I wouldn’t mind coming back as one of these girls.”

This is a cool place to visit. It is a wee bit off the tourist path and even with ten buses of kids I, with no patiences, didn’t feel stamped upon or smacked with a backpack. Hmm, I didn’t see any backpacks – thank the goddesses. The tours are organized so that we didn’t seem to overlap with another one. Each group was relatively small. The place is huge, so it is even possible to find a quiet place to sit and stare. The restaurant is worth the trip and the prices are not tourist outrageous. There were a lot of locals just there for lunch. Midge stop talking, just go back again! Enjoy!

Ci vediamo a presto!

Midge

Teachers and Community Theater folks – are you looking for family friendly plays that may even teach a lesson?
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Opera for All

The Sannio Hills are rich with culture. You have often heard me talk about Pontelandolfo’s folkloric dance company, Ri Ualanegli Pontelandolfo. They produce an amazing annual multi-day international folk dance festival – check out some of my older posts. What I haven’t shared with you as often, is how these hills are so “alive with the sound of music.” Occasionally, Jack and I have bumbled upon musical events – look there is a poster for a concert at the Roman Theatre. Oh, it was yesterday. Facebook and Instagram seem to be our province’s village criers. Don’t bother with the daily newspapers – go straight to the digital world. Not wanting to be called a luddite, I friended Orchestra Filarmonica di Benevento on Instagram. Now, we have no excuse not to drag our aging bodies out of comfortable chairs and immerse ourselves in top quality music. Our first adventure kicked off my seventy-fourth birthday! Happy birthday to me – I got to see –

Loved the performances and the venue.

Getting dressed up to sit in fabulous comfortable orchestra seats made me do a happy dance. AND those seats did not cost me the down payment on a Ferrari! Orchestra seats in a jewel box, acoustically perfect theater cost me – wait, wait for it – the incredibly low price of €30 with a €1.80 handling charge! (About $34.) My Arts Admin nose had me looking for who was picking up the tab. Logos on the orchestra’s website made me guess they get underwritten by Ministero Cultura (Italy), Region Campania, Città di Benevento and a few corporations. They didn’t give out programs and the ushers were probably student volunteers – so a bit was saved there. But they did spend a bunch on the production values. More about that later. Benevento’s Teatro Comunale Vittorio Emmanuele is on the grand pedestrian boulevard, Corso Garibaldi. Just strolling down the majestic street and looking at all the high end shops, cafes and museum facades, reminded me how lucky we are to spend so much time in this province. This was our first visit to this theatre. Designed by famous Neapolitan architect, Pasquale Franesconi, the performance space opened in 1862. The interior is rich with all the wedding cake artistic features one expects from that period. Recently updated and refurbished, the theatre even had a handicap bathroom seconds from our orchestra seats. (I mean there was no lock on the door, but I’m not bashful.)

A literal 14 second look at the theater.

When the orchestra, buried below the stage in a real orchestra pit, played the overture, Jack and I looked at each other and grinned. We had seen members of the orchestra dressed in formal funeral attire, carrying interesting instrument cases scurry up the street. The musicians we saw running were young and I thought maybe they might all be students at Benevento’s famous music school, Conservatorio Statale di Musica Nicola Sala di Benevento. When the orchestra was revealed, the focused faces were of all adult generations. Their musical proficiency was evident. They could stand with any symphony we have heard.

Then the curtains opened on a simple yet functional set. The performance space is limited and designer, Luca De Lorenzo, adapted well. His costumes also brought each character to life. The first scene of the Barber of Seville has always felt like a throw away to me, so we didn’t know what to expect. Sadly, we weren’t given programs and I don’t know who were heard sing on May 12th but Figaro was freaking amazing! Not only did he have the musical chops, he was a triple threat. That magical singer, actor, mover combination that rocks the stage. The other triple threat that I kept waiting to enter was Berta, Rosina’s governess/maid (she looked younger than Rosina.) The other performers carried Gioachino Rossini’s score incredibly well too.

I googled the cast list and discovered these singers have performed with opera companies throughout Europe. I am absolutely impressed. Here is the list –

MARCO ALIBRANDO,   director
SERGIO VITALE,  director
MAYA MARTINI, assistant director
LUCA DE LORENZO, sets and costumes
Created by Arte Scenica di Stefano Giaroli
LUCIANO BRANNO,  Chorus Master

Interpreters of the Opera Studio held by Rosa Feola and Sergio Vitale

FIGARO, Francesco Auriemma – Alfonso Michele Ciulla
ROSINA, Federica Foresta – Angela Schisano
THE COUNT OF ALMAVIVA, Francesco Tuppo – Eder Sandoval Guevara
DON BARTOLO, Gabriel Wernick – Hazar Mursitpinar
DON BASILIO, Carlo Feola – Nicola Ciancio
BERTA, Carmen Aurora Bocale – Enrica Musto
FIORELLO, Luca DeLorenzo

The chorus played a variety of roles in different parts of the theatre. When they marched in through the center aisle, the entire audience grinned like kids on Christmas morning. Bravi anche to the Philharmonic Orchestra of Benevento Choir I “Cortesi.”

The Orchestra Filarmonica has an outdoor summer season. The venue, built in the second century by emperor Hadrian, is the Teatro Romano di Benevento. Imagine a town’s important archaeological asset being used for performances! Can’t wait for our next musical treat in the Sannio Hills.

Ci vediamo,

Midge Guerrera

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“Vaffanculo,” Expressive New Wine

When life hands you lemons – or the Pandemic closes your hotel – make lemonade. NOT. The ever creative and entrepreneurial owners of our favorite Milanese B&B, Il Girasole Milano, Nicola and Matteo Negruzzi understood that people around the world were feeling crappy. Hmmm…. In case you didn’t know, the name of their wine that grew out of the Pandemic is a vulgar Italian idiomatic expression – essentially meaning “fuck off” or “up your butt.” It is also a wine that sold rapidly during the two plus years that Covid had as all feeling – well – gulp – fucked and continues to sell today.

Nicola Negruzzi told me the story –

It was the end of November, 2020 and they got a call from a very good friend who was having a very bad year. A disabled child, the pandemic, Milan closed up tight and – well you went through it and you understand. At the end of the call, she said to Nicola, “you don’t know how many vaffanculos I have to say a day.” To make her laugh, Nicola designed a label for a sparkling Trebbiano wine from Abruzzo. He took a picture, sent it to her and said, “Come here, we drink this wine and say vaffanculo together.” It was just a joke – join the rest of us and raise a glass while screaming “vaffanculo!” Their friend not only laughed, she ordered a case. Nicola and Matteo realized they might be on to something that could save their souls. They asked a friend to design a professional label, ordered a bunch of wine from a vineyard in Abruzzo, attached wooden baskets to their bicycles and started creating an old fashioned huckster promotional buzz. They pedaled around Milan looking for groups of masked up, glum looking people. Imagine the surprise and cheers when two men carrying bottles of Vaffanculo Wine, stopped and offered glasses accompanied by the very cheerful, but vulgar, toast. The wine took off like rockets. The timing, creativity and energy of the brothers is a marketing case study.

Taking the project even further, they got the permits to turn their empty hotel into a bar open just for apertivo. Matteo took mixology courses and started creating signature drinks. Together they created a menu of interesting stuzzichini, canapès.

They papered the neighborhood with fliers announcing the opening of “The Garden.” I was shocked when we came to the B&B to see their old parking lot festooned with trees and shrubs in enormous pots. They created spatial social distancing islands of tables surrounded by plants.

From 5:30 PM until 10:00 PM locals visit the Garden to snack, gossip and drink. The featured wine – Vaffanculo. Imagine someone coming to the bar for the first time hearing customers shout, “Matteo, Vaffanculo per due.”

Yes, I did. You know I did. I bought a case and shipped it home to Pontelandolfo.


Here is some exciting Midge News! I was a featured guest on the theatre podcast, OnStage, OffStage. Interviewed by George Sapio, I had a great time. Actually, when I heard it for the first time, I cried. I sounded like a real writer! Who knew that my pandemic lemonade would be getting a book and five plays published! Listen to the podcast and hear all about it.

Ci Vediamo!

Midge Guerrera