Verizon Wireless – Evil,Evil,Evil

Evil, have I mentioned that Verizon Wireless is F%$#$%n EVIL????  Why you ask?  Oh, I don’t know.  Perhaps, the smiling voices in the call centers really can’t override the corporate computers.  Perhaps, they have the best network and enjoy yanking the proverbial balls of their customers?

I have now – in one month – called Verizon Wireless from Italy, no fewer than 5 times.  Actually, I started in March before I left to alert them to the fact that I would be in Italy AGAIN for six months and wanted to suspend my phone service.  Suspend it with out being billed – you know  -I’m not using it so I won’t pay for service.  For two years I had to argue with Verizon about suspension – their website said you could suspend without billing for 6 months once a year.  Perfect, we are gone for six months once a year.  For two years, I pled, argued, referred to the jargon on their websites and was eventually able to suspend for 6 months.  It took weeks of wrangling, moving up the food chain and feeling tension invade my entire body.

This year, after noting that now you could only suspend for three months, once again, I tried to suspend on-line – once again their web site sent an arrow to the pain in my butt.  Hence, I called to make the suspension happen.  Once again, I jumped through hoops, argued and pontificated.  Finally, I got a sweet young woman who said why don’t we also change your plan to a flip phone cheap plan so that after the three months you will only have to pay $40 something a month for the privilege of using Verizon when you get back.  Wow – a bargain!  I get to pay for something I’m not using!  Weeoooo

That sounded like a plan so, with her I downgraded the phones to flips and allegedly suspended the lines.  Allegedly, because being the good administrator, I went to My Verizon on line and checked in three days.  Now remember – the Verizon sim cards are no where near the phones. WHAT!  Not suspended.  I called and got some other nice sounding smiling person.  That person said, oh I see the notes, but the order never got processed.  WHAT!  So he allegedly processed the order to downgrade us to two flip phones and suspend us for three months.  He rambled about how we would have to be reimbursed we would get a credit etc.  Fine.  Just do it.

April 30 I got the e-mail from Verizon that they had paid my bill with my credit card.  What bill?  I went to the website.  I was charged $97.22 something for March 10 – April 9. Of course, I was in Italy on April 1st and had promptly put in my Vodafone sim card.  That bill included data charges for April and – get this a 36 minute call to someone in Long Branch, NJ on April 2nd when I had just landed in Italy and swapped sim cards????

My mistake was not shutting off automatic bill pay – World Travelers learn this lesson from me.  Turn off automatic bill pay for those bills that are always a pain in the ass to deal with and usually wrong.  The $97.22 was paid automatically.

I called Verizon.  Verizon didn’t recognize my magic pin number.  I called Verizon.  After being in the cue, I was disconnected.  I called Verizon.  I got a nice young lady – notice that all of the Verizon call center people and nice.  They are well trained to be nice.  The company breeds them to be nice.  Effectual??? Not so much.

She explained that there was a BIG NOTE on my account that I was to be credited for the data and for a good junk of that bill.  I explained that I remembered the credit but why didn’t they just put it on the bill.  She explained it would be on the next bill.  WHAT?  I pointed out that the phones were suspended so the bill would be a whopping negative number.  I asked her to send me a confirmation of the credit and a confirmation that my phone plan had been downgraded.  She said she could text it.  I started to give her my MagicJack New Jersey number so that she could text.  Oh no – I can only text to the numbers on the account.  I explained again – they are suspended – the sim cards have been taken out of the phones.  She put me on HOLD.

She came back – I asked – send me an e-mail.  I can’t we don’t have private e-mail accounts at work.  WAIT – Verizon e-mails me my bill – you must have my e-mail address on file and you must be able to e-mail.  She put me on HOLD.

Miss Margaret – Do you have the cell phones with you.  Yes.  I will call Global and they can text.  WHAT!  The phones are suspended.  I do not have a Verizon Global plan!  But do you have the phones – were they Verizon phones?  No, we bought them from Apple. I refuse to buy anything from Verizon.  But do you have the phones.  I am talking to you through the phone – with my wonderful Vodofone sim card.  She put me on HOLD.

Do you have the Verizon sim card in the phone.  ERGGGGG No I have an Italian cheap sim card.   Do you have the Verizon sim.  You could put it back in the phone.  You can only text me the information to that sim – but the phones are suspended.  I know ma’m but we can only text to the numbers on the account.  But those numbers are suspended. If I activate the sim so you can text, I will have to go through the seven levels of Verizon suspension hell again.

Wait, listen my MagicJack VOIP number is the contact number on the account – I can see it on-line at My Verizon –  text to that.  I can’t ma’m it isn’t on my screen.  But I can see it on My Verizon – don’t you have the same screens.  No Ma’m, I understand your frustration.  Hold.  Hold.. HOLD…

I could continue the rant but what would be the point.  Allegedly, some supervisor  would e-mailed me the note about the reimbursement.

This is what I got – with lots of Verizon Happy FacesThis is a confirmation that an adjustment has been made to your account balance. Your new balance can be obtained in the following ways:  Dial #BAL and SEND 24 hours after receiving this email. (Bet I need to do that from my Verizon phone number.   ERRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGG)

Alex’s Take on Aunt Midge’s World

My talented and delightful niece, Alexandra Rose Niedt, takes her Italian heritage seriously! She was the third person in our immediate family to apply for – Italian Citizenship.  (She would have been second but her mom had to get it first.) The winsome lady also has the wanderlust! Not afraid to travel alone she often pops into Pontelandolfo – when we are here and when we’re not! We had only been in town for three days, when with toothpicks holding open our travel weary eyes, we headed to the Naples airport. She glided into the airport pulling a suitcase bigger than she was and people noticed her.  The kid is a chip off the Guerrera block and carries herself with Una Bella Figura – just like her ancestors.  Shut up Auntie M!  OK, OK, here’s Alex –

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Annarita Mancini fills Alexandra in on the latest gossip.

Dear Readers,

Years ago, I started coming here to see my family, so not too much surprises me when I come to my ancestral home. Though this trip, I did notice something that took me for a slight loop that I wanted to update you all on: my Aunt Midge has become a complete local.

Now let me clarify a few things on this topic-

• I don’t know if it’s because of my roots or because of the bond I have with my family here, but I always feel somewhat like I’ve been here forever. Whether that be all of the familiar faces I see in the piazza, or the friends and family members that make me laugh entirely too hard, it’s difficult to say. All I know is that I always feel a sense of belonging.

• Midge has been spending more and more time here over the past 3 years, from 4-7 months at a time, so granted there has been time for this all to take effect.

• Being considered a local and simply feeling like one are two drastically different things.

Midge arrived back in Pontelandolfo nearly 3 days before I got to our gorgeous little village, so she’d really only had the chance to see our family, go to IKEA to buy some more furnishings for her house and drive to Naples to pick me up at the airport.  (A task which I am always grateful for, as taking the train from Naples in the evening is not on my top 10 list of things I most enjoy.) Because she hadn’t had the chance to fully settle back in to the swing of things I got to bear witness to her complete transition from “that crazy American lady that’s always writing at Bar Elimar” to “one of our own.”

I thought, as my generation is obsessed with them, I would present this to you in list form.

1) Walking through the Piazza random people come rushing over to my aunt saying “Bentornata!” (Welcome back) with hugs and kisses all around and excited conversation. This happens frequently, with people I know and also people I have never seen before. I thought I knew everyone! Dead wrong.

2) While sitting in the Piazza drinking a macchiato, a school bus full of children drives by and the kids lean out of the windows screaming “Hello!  Hello!  Hello!” to their former English teacher. I laugh for a solid minute at the ridiculous nature of little heads popping out the window in Italy shouting hello!

3) We need cheese, so I say why don’t we go to the caseificio in town? My aunt responds with “Oh no, we can’t go to him…” And follows with some story about the inner workings of the politics of the town and our family… Or was it that he sold her bad mozzarella once and she won’t go back? Same thing!

4) When we do make it to the caseificio (the one she frequents a little outside of town) after more hugs and kisses from Nadia, the long time employee, she proceeds to ask for specific cheese. Nadia on the sly tells her what is most fresh and what to stay away from today. Because you know, she’s a regular.

5) Sitting at one of the bars around 9pm Midge is about to leave when one of the women we know stops her. She asks for help making costumes for the town play “Dramma Sacro du Santa Giocondina.” Midge, being the true thespian she is, heartily agrees. This play is so important, it happens once every 4 years and is taken very seriously. Go Midge!

6) We are having a little gathering at Midge’s house the night before I leave for London, so of course we have to go to the pasticceria to buy dolce for after dinner. Upon arrival we begin to talk to the girl behind the counter, when out from the back (having recognized Midge’s voice) comes the owner Nicola, who immediately takes over our order and starts shooting the shit with us. After we’re finished he takes the treats to the register, tells the girl to give us the friends discount and waves goodbye. I mean, what a life?

I love this town, it’s home. It’s beautiful in the morning, and lights up after 10pm- literally and energetically. I hang out with the same people whenever I’m here, and have created really beautiful relationships with friends and family alike. But I’m always just visiting. Sure, I’m from here, sure I feel like a local, but I haven’t put in the time to truly deserve the right to be considered one.

My Aunt Midge has, and is now sitting back and reaping the benefits of a truly loving community. And I am forever impressed.

Questa e l’Italia- La dolce vita.

Ci vediamo la prossima volta,

Alex

(Thanks Alex, I actually cried when I read this.  I love you to pieces!  Auntie M)

Wind Closes the Market?? Nah!

Here in Pontelandlofo, Wednesday is market day. The trucks parade in and transform Piazza Roma into a Centro Commerciale.  People come into town to buy everything from soap,shoes, clothes to baby chickens.  When I got up, I yelled down the stairs to Jack  – are you ready to go?  The wnd was whistling and I remembered those hot summer days and how great that forceful breeze felt.  Then I bellowed, there is laundry in the washing machine.  (I had put a load of towels in last night.)  Jack,if you’re ready please hang the towels up, outside. 

 I love the smell of air dried clothes.  It is one of the perks of not having a drier.

Jack came back in red faced and said the towels will be dry in about ten minutes if the wind doesn’t take them to London.  Then he said, it is too windy – there won’t be a market.  Psshaw, I thought. Pontelandlofese are mountain people.  What’s a little wind.  I shoved Jack back out the door.

When we got outside the wind grabbed my hair and whisked my head around – think horror movie rotating head.  Ouch.  It tossed me towards the car.  Jack said, “there won’t be a market.” Not be a market, I screamed over the wind.  These venders are tough and I have to buy Zia Giusipinna a sweater for her birthday. Jack sighed and drove us down to the piazza.

I see the trucks! I shouted.  Jack pointed out that the owners were still in the trucks and nothing was out to be sold.  There were lots of cars so people are here. Oh, they are sitting in their cars too.

Jack parked and I dashed up to Dr. Polumbo’s office to try to get rid of my evil sounding cough.  When I came back down I saw that the market –  

 
shoot I can’t lie.  Out of the twenty or so normal trucks full of stuff about three braved the wind. They partially set up.  

Sadly, no one was walking around, chatting, haggling or buying.  Sigh…..  Ain’t living in a Windy City grand!  

Welcome to the Province of Benevento!

Ci vediamo!

Riccardo Fortuna’s Graphic Novel

Riccardo Fortuna is a gifted artist, who has created un fumetto – a graphic novel  – that brought tears to my eyes and an ache to my heart. Last summer, Riccardo presented this graphic novel at a forum on one of the most obscure and controversial pages of the Risorgimento – the massacre of Pontelandolfo and Casalduni citizens  by the Royal Italian Army on August 14, 1861.  When I heard him speak and picked up his recently published book – yes, yes, he is awfully good looking – but that wasn’t the reason I picked up his book – I couldn’t wait to read it.

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His novel, 14 Agosto 1861, tells the story of the horrific events that happened one night in the Italian villages of Pontelandolfo and Casalduni.  Not only did the incredible drawings and historic through-line resonate with my passion for Pontelandolfo but they also made me realize how little  I knew – and I’m guessing most Americans know – about the militaristic march to unify Italy.

Jack is an avid reader of history books.  I start to read Italian history and wake up with the big books crushing my belly.  Then, I read 14 Agosto 1861.  Not only did I stay awake, but I could not put the book down until, with tears sliding down my cheeks, I finished it. Fortuna, having heard the story,researched the incident and created a history book with drawings that captured the spirit and pathos of one murderous night.

On August 14, 1861, some partisans captured and killed a small number of Italian soldiers in Casalduni. Seeking revenge, Italian Colonel Pier Eleonoro Negri directed his men to launch an attack.


As Pontelandolfese calmly slept, an indignant, Colonel Negri ordered that his soldiers destroy the community. Di Pontelandolfo e Casalduni non rimanga pietra su pietra. Leave no stone left standing in Pontelandofo or Casalduni, he cried.

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2015 Recreation in Casalduni

Entering Pontelandolfo in the middle of the night, the soldiers, kicked in doors, leaped up stairs, raced into homes killing men, women and children. Looting and unimaginable atrocities occurred. Flames soared and the village burned. The infamy of this night will never be forgotten.

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The young author has published other graphic novels.  His latest –

Dio è morto: Da così parlò Zarathustra, di F. W. Nietzsche. (Italian Edition) Kindle Edition

by Riccardo Fortuna (Author), Friedrich Nietzsche (Narrator)

– can be found on amazon.com.   I hope that there is a second printing of 14 Agosto 1861.  Why not contact Riccardo  and ask him!

 

Ci vediamo a presto.

Una Bella Figura

Una Bella Figura!  When you hear that and think of all things Italian  – is Sophia Loren the first thing that comes to your mind or Gina Lollobridgida?  Boy did I date myself with those references.  Italian fashion, furniture design and architecture are known the world over for their beauty and grace.  But is the phrase Bella Figura really just – hey that’s pretty?

My good pal Diana went to a New York University – ‘One Day University’ and attended a program presented by Prof. Joseph Luzzi from Bard College on Italian culture, past and present. I googled him and his headshot is gorgeous. Diana said he was a great presenter. That says to me he not only talked about Una Bella Figura but sure as hell represents it.

Today, Diana and I chatted about the premise and Dr. Luzzi’s explanations. It made me think that you all should get into the conversation too. Just what is una bella figura?  It simply means “beautiful figure” but it goes way beyond that. When one ha una bella figura one is concerned about making a good impression.  Sure dressing well, having a great haircut and walking like the world is your runway is part of it. But the concept goes far beyond that.  It is showing the world that your life is wonderful whether it is or not.  You know, I really believe, that when I think my life is wonderful it is – I mean who wants to think their life is crap?

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My Grandparents were peasant farmers but managed to have a charcoal portrait done. I grew up seeing this and didn’t know how poor they really had been until I started asking questions about Italy.  Bella figura!

The conversation with Diana also made me think of my dad.  “Johnny G” as he liked to call himself could and would talk to anyone.  Even if he was having a bad month, he would still pick up the tab in a restaurant.  He made sure his clothes were cleaned and pressed.  Poppo wanted to present a good impression – albeit his way – to the women of the world and the world at large.  He never complained in public – unless he was ridiculing a Republican.  When he died I found a file full of copies of parking tickets and traffic violations in other people’s names.  Folks thought that he was incredibly powerful.  He could even “fix” their traffic tickets.  Johnny G smiled and pocketed the tickets.  “No problems.”  He did fix them.  He paid the fines.  Now he aveva una bella figura!

I love Wednesdays!  That is market day in Pontelandolfo.  The trucks come zapping in really early in the morning.  Truck sides flap down and goods fly up.  Every Wednesday is like a mini festa with purpose.  You can find everything from baby chicks to faux designer purses.  Shoppers meander past the goods, chat and of course stop for un caffè.  Everyone looks great!  Nice outfits, good shoes, combed hair.  The first time I went, I rolled down the hill to the piazza sans make-up and not dressed for success.  You know – just like I go to Wegman’s for groceries in New Jersey.  I always say that I need to look good for me and then somehow I figure I don’t care about me and don’t bother.  In Italy I do bother.  Make-up goes on every morning – before I leave the house.  Sweat pants are for the house only!  You know, when I try to look terrific I feel terrific and my day just seems to work out better.  This might be the real reason for una bella figura.

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Una Bella Figura – butcher paper with panache!

One of the many things I love about Italy is the attention to eye-pleasing detail.  The smallest shops – from the macelleria, pasticceria to giolelliera – in Pontelandolfo all practically gift wrap their goods. When I go to the macelleria my chicken is elegantly placed on not just plain old brown or white paper but butcher paper embossed with a design and held shut with colored twine.  All those yummy sweet goodies from the pasticceria are placed on a golden tray, protected by a golden cardboard arch and wrapped in cellophane.  It is almost too pretty to unwrap and eat – OK that was a bold faced lie – we unwrap and eat the pastries immediately.  I bought my niece a purse at the giolelliera – which is a jewelry shop but sells cute accessories too.  It seems – unless you shop at an open air market – all purses come with their own cloth bag.  I was happy to go home with that, when the clerk put the purse in the cloth bag and the whole thing in a shiny purple bag, added gold ribbon and a gold sticker with the store’s name.  That too is making a good impression – una bella figura.

When a young person does well in school or makes the family proud by doing something special, I’ve heard the child ha fatto una bella figura.  Bella figura also means knowing how to behave in any situation.  I swear I think Italian children have cuteness and behaving inserted  in their DNA.  We eat out a lot and in Italy children are welcome in all restaurants from the linen and crystal spots to the smallest osterias.  They actually sit in the chairs, engage in conversation and eat.  Sure, they get up and run around a bit too but without the screaming and whining I hear in the USA.

When I think of the young men and women of Pontelandolfo I think of young women who can wear glamorous spike heels and still wend their way casually over cobblestones.  Women with university educations who dress in the height of fashion to sit in the local bar and understand that having one or two great outfits is all one really needs. Men who take their T-shirts to the local seamstress to have them custom fit and look elegant even after working in the vineyard. I have never seen a young person sipping a cappuccino in public, dressed in flannel pajama pants and a sweatshirt.  Everyone cares about the way they dress and look in public.  People are proud of who they are and share that pride through the way they dress and how they act.  It is simply a part of life.

The world certainly looks better to me when folks have una bella figura!

Ci vediamo!

Biennale Arte di Venezia

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On the Vaporetto to the Giardini and the Biennale!

We were excited to attend La Biennale di Venezia.  The 56th International Art Exhibition ran from  May 9th to November 22nd 2015.  Visiting Venice years ago, we had strolled through the Giardini, looked at empty buildings that every two years are filled with art and vowed to return.  Each country that participates in the Biennale has it’s own building to fill or we discovered – to barely fill  – with representative art of their country.  The exhibition takes place not only at the Giardini but also the Arsenale and in various locations across the city of Venice.

 

Curated by Okwui Enwezor, this year’s event got a scathing review in Art News.  Not to be put off by one person’s point of view and because we never do what we are told, Jack and I booked our train tickets and headed to Venice.

Our Cittidini Anziani – old people – tickets cost of €20 and were good for exploring both artsy sites – Giardini and the Arsenale.  The space is open and easy to navigate.  We strolled from pavilion to pavilion.  It was incredibly interesting to see the stylistic differences between artists and the types of art that were chosen by each country.  It was also interesting to look around and note that probably most of the 501,502 visitors and over 8,000 journalists that the exhibit attracted were our age.

One exhibit that the arts administrator in me found really enlightening was a giant space featuring blow ups of audience surveys from famous museums.  The surveys went back to the 1800s and asked many of the same demographic questions that we ask today.  Current exhibition viewers could sit with an iPad and take the Biennale survey.  As I did that, my answers immediately changed the results by 1 and were projected.  Most of the visitors to the Biennale have an advanced degree!  That bothered me – was it because only people with advanced degrees can afford to go to Venice?  There were young people interspersed among the baby boomers – were they all in graduate programs?  Hmmmm.

Jack and I love to go to museums and galleries.  We appreciate art of all types and eras.  That said – oh you know what is coming – she is going to say something bitchy about someone.  Who picks the American Artist?  I won’t say her name because she might be someone I got drunk with in the 60’s – actually her art reminded me of the crap some of my friends handed in to their art teachers in the 60’s.  The exterior of the American Pavillon could use a touch of paint and maintenance.  We entered through a side door held open by a fire extinguisher – charming.  The darkened interior sported a variety of screens all featuring the same film.  Two young girls dressed like  Isadora Duncan’s Isadorables scampered about, beat on a wooden log with sticks and generally didn’t do anything interesting.  Hung on the walls were props from the films, repeated repeated repeated prints and – oh I really can’t even talk about it.  With all the artists in the United States WHY THIS STUFF?

I did a little research and figured it out!  The artist teaches at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and guess who curated the American Pavillon?  Good guess – MIT!!!!  They must have a “sacco di soldi” or access to the big list of sponsors that put up the cash for this trash.  Oops – I didn’t mean to make a disparaging comment.

Here’s a short video of just some of the exhibition halls we visited.  We intend to go again.  We had a great time – even if we did snicker at some of the art. Enjoy.

Ci Vediamo!

2015 in review

Thank you all for being a part of the Nonna’s Mulberry Tree family. I truly appreciated all the support the blog got in 2015.  The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2015 annual report for the blog.  It reminded me just how important each and everyone of you are to the blog’s success.

Here’s an excerpt:

The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 8,700 times in 2015. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 3 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.

There were 94 pictures uploaded, taking up a total of 92 MB. That’s about 2 pictures per week.

The busiest day of the year was October 27th with 217 views. The most popular post that day was Balance.

Have a wonderful New Year!  May 2016 bring  you all health, happiness and prosperity.

Ci Vediamo!

Midge

Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo

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Some of the great people who follow my exploits in Pontelandolfo (BN), have asked why they too can’t experience the life in a little Italian village.  Hmmm, I thought, why can’t you!  From Saturday, May 21 to Saturday, May 28, 2016 a very small group – 5-10 people only – will be up to their elbows in Southern Italian home cooking and up to their ears in village life.

For one week, become part of a very small hill top village. No belching tourist buses unloading hordes of people. No souvenir shops filled with stuff made somewhere else. Instead, discover the heart and soul of Southern Italy through its people and food. The Italy that still rests in the afternoon. The Italy that loves to shop directly from the local butchers, pasticceria, fruit and vegetable trucks and the weekly outdoor market.

Hmmm, the scents of fresh vegetables, herbs, meats and grains waft through the kitchen. Pots simmer, pasta boards are out and a wood fire burns in the oven. Welcome to the kitchens of Pontelandolfo. Experience the Southern Italian cooking perfected by the women of the south. Not in a restaurant, not in a cooking school but in the same kitchens these women use to feed their families. Learn the recipes and techniques that have been passed down for generations. Roll up your sleeves, don your apron and get ready to cook.

A local translator will be available for all classes. Or you can practice your Italian – all the cooks and local shop owners only speak Italian.

Included Highlights:

Transportation from the Benevento Train Station to Pontelandolfo

7 nights, single room, with television, refrigerator, morning caffè and coronetto

Welcoming apertivo in a local bar.

Sunday Pranza (Lunch)

5 morning Cooking Classes with local cooks culminating in lunch.

Excursion to the Festa of St. Rita in Casalduni

Open-air market

Excursion to Roman Ruins – Altilia Ruins

Walking Tour of The City of Martyrs – Pontelandolfo 1861

Wine tasting at a local vintner

Meet the local butchers, baker and cheese makers.

Excursion to the museums and shops of Benevento

Translator

Transportation to a different local restaurant each night.

Leave a comment asking for the particulars and I will e-mail you!

Nonna’s Mulberry Tree’s first Italian excursion to Alghero, Sardinia with great Italian classes at Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera was a smashing success.  A second adventure is scheduled for October 2016!  More to follow!