Tawā Sushi Comes to Pontelandolfo

When Jack and I started this Italian life-style journey 10 years ago there were three things we missed about living in New Jersey – our family and friends, Jersey sweet corn and SUSHI. By our second year in Pontelandolfo, we were – ok I was – so jonesing for sushi that I insisted we search near and far for a restaurant. That year the only sushi joint we found was in Avallino and the sushi was not anything we would eat again. Thing sugar rice -yuck. I sighed. I cried and I wished on every star.

The stars came through! Giuseppe Sforza, an exceptional restaurateur, opened a world class sushi restaurant in – wait for it – hear me exploding with joy – in my home town!

Joy!!!!

Tawā, which means tower, sits under Pontelandolfo’s iconic tower and offers a world class experience. We knew it would. Giuseppe had been the proprietor of Landulphi a Latin themed pub. Latin like the language of our Italian ancestors. The menu was in Latin (with pictures), the waitstaff wore appropriate costumes, I mean uniforms, only beer was served and the food was fantastic. It was incredibly successful. A new version is being built in our historic center. But back to sushi. Tawā has been about a year in the making. Giuseppe is a stickler for detain and, even though I begged and pleaded and texted and shouted, he wouldn’t open until every detail was perfect.

Giuseppe, bless his heart, invited us to the prova. The night the chef and staff practice and get all the kinks out. It was a night to remember. What a gift of goodness. We learned that night that Tawā has a fixed price menu. No, not that plebeian all you can eat kind of fixed price but an opportunity to explore the delectable treats the chef is making daily based on the market and his muse.

We have been gastronomically entranced by the Percorso Tradizionale. Our first tasting was at the prova. We loved it so much we went back one day after Tawā opened to feast again. There were more courses than I could count and I was to busy groaning with happiness to take pictures of everything.

The wee bowl of white soup was magical. Fish broth with a hint of salsa di soia melded with a whipped egg and steamed, looked like the smoothest of flans. When the spoon pierced the cream, broth oozed up giving my tastebuds a smooth yet soupy feel. It was delightfully decadent. The salad, in the adjacent photo was celery, carrots and seaweed. Whoever sliced the celery into long thin lettuce like strips is a king with a knife. The sesame dressing rocked it.I loved every morsel.

Yes, of course there was sashimi and sushi nigiri. I particularly was impressed with the raw scallops served in the shell and topped with a frothy essence of the sea.

I better stop talking about the food, I am getting hungry and I am not close enough to Pontelandolfo to zip in, sit at the sushi bar, order a glass of wine and the apertivo. But domani!

Tawā is an asset to Piazza Roma. Giuseppe is great at marketing and people will visit our village from afar. I am so thankful to him for providing me with one of the things I miss most about New Jersey.

Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Midge

Literally Italy LLC
Stay tuned for our latest venture. Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo is more than just cooking. Playwrights Retreat is happening now and a Writer’s Retreat is on the schedule for June 2025! Visual artists may be next!

Riohana – Morcone’s Cocktail House

It was hard to imagine we were in the medieval village next door to Pontelandolfo. Riohana Cocktail House, is a hip bar with a Manhatten vibe. What exactly makes this a cool place? Could it be the drink menu designed by an ace mixologist; the laid back jungle atmosphere replete with couches, cozy tables both indoors and out; an outrageous bar menu; and gastropub fare that goes way beyond the mundane? With two out of town guests, Jack and I put on our party clothes and drove to Morcone to find out.

Ever curious, we wondered what the two story building balancing on a mountain ledge had been. A blacksmith’s shop was the answer. Hmm, I thought, a walled in outdoor terrace with a metal gate to the street – corral? Did horses head to a watering trough neighing about their new shoes? We never did find the answer. We did find an adult watering trough that made us whinny with delight.

Mattia Cioccia is the bartender/manager and creative force behind the Riohana Cocktail House. He is also the reason we went. I first met Mattia years ago when he was a bartender at Pontelandolfo’s Landulphi pub and restaurant. We bonded when I made him laugh by reminding him in barely there Italian that I was an American woman and could handle a double pour of vodka, gin, scotch etc. Mattia is a first rate mixologist and has a delightful personality. His bar menu at Riohana had enticing names like –

Since gin is one of my go to beverages, I felt compelled to try “Ant-Ree.” Floating on top was a toasted mini mandarin slice. I could picture the ants marching along carrying their citrus find. It was delicious. So delicious that – no I will not reveal how many adult beverages I can consume and still wend my way home on mountain goat paths. Each of us had a different drink. Each drink was unique and perfectly blended. Mattia knows his stuff.

The kitchen didn’t disappoint us either. We started with the €3 each “Tagliere/aperitivo.” Snacks to accompany our cocktails that were interesting. Don’t tell Jack that the open faced tramezzini he gulped down was made with pickled eggplant. After another drink or three we realized that ordering something heartier might be appropriate. They have essentially a hot sandwich, panini, menu.

The green beverage you see in the background is a gin and basil drink. I’ve had it before and think I also had one that night. Gulp. Back to the sandwiches. We each got a sandwich cut in four parts. Swapping and tasting was the idea, my Alpi e Appennini was so scrumptious that I cried when I shared. Great tasting, fresh ingredients made each one exceptional.

The best news? Jack and I after an enjoyable night out in Morcone spent only €36. Are you all starting to understand why we love spending time in the Sannio Hills? Great stuff and prices we can afford. We will return to Riohana Cocktail House.

Ci Vediamo!

Midge

FOODIES TAKE NOTICE

The time is now to organize your pals to come and Cook in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo! We are setting up 2025 spring and summer’s programs now.
Email me at info@nonnamulberrytree.com

thre is no better way to start cooking than with a bar crawl! Cook, Eat, Laugh!

Is it Mountain Air or Genetic?

I know, I know you have heard it before but it is true -seriously – it is true. Something here in Pontelandolfo activates creative woo woo and the arts – especially literary arts burst forth with abandon. Yes, of course I have another case in point – Carlo Perugini.

I first met Carlo at a Club di Libro di Pontelandolfo meeting. The book club members were part of the villages intelligenza. For me, reading the books and listening to the discussion was like an Italian language seminar. Carlo was not only an articulate participant but he also threw great parties – literary themed of course.

Discovering that Carlo was an author, I ordered one of his books. Scarpittopoli: Pontelandolfo: persone, personaggi e storie del tempo che fu a collection of short stories/fables located in my favorite village.

What fun, laugh out loud fun, at the antics of long ago villagers. Those of you who follow me, know that I’ve been studying Italian for a pazillion years. Carlo’s book was the perfect companion to those studies. The stories were interesting, pulled me in and written in such a way that even I could enjoy every – well almost – every word. After that, I was hooked on the canon of Carlo Perugini. HEY Italian teachers – consider his books!

Carlo’s love for Pontelandolfo’s past is evident in his first book, “AUGUST 1861 MEMORIES OF THOSE DAYS.” You have heard me prattle on before about the rape, pillage and burning of our village by the Italian army. Genocide is not fun.

Carlo’s work personalizes that horrific event. During those dark days, someone kept a graphic diary and hid it in the ceiling . A contractor pal renovating that ancient house found the diary and gave it to Carlo. The book first published in 1989 was a resounding success. It is in its third edition today and liberally quoted, mentioned and listed in the bibliographies of other books about the conquering of Southern Italy.

Nessun altro si salverà!: L’affondamento del cacciatorpediere Scirocco nel ricordo del Sergente Nocchiere Michele Perugini – a long title but a gripping memoiresque book. (“No One Else will be Saved.”) It is the tale of Carlo’s father, Michele, who joined the Italian Navy during World War II and was the only survivor of a horrific loss of a ship. The opening chapters – so reminiscent of the stories my nonna told – were so gripping I poured two fingers of scotch and settled down to finish the book in a marathon sitting.

La Ruzzola del Formaggio e altri Racconti is another collection of short stories. I am a sucker for these tales and giggled out loud while reading some of them. The title story reveals the passion Pontelandolfese have for “rolling the cheese.” Everyone who comes to Pontelandolfo and has a chance to see this sport can’t believe that enormous wheels of cheese – big enough to break your leg if it hits you – are careening down our streets amid cheers and curses. Our last group of Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo participants had a fun filled afternoon rolling the cheese with our local Ruzzola champion.

His list of published works goes on but Carlo Perugini is more than a collection of books. He is also an environmentalist/activist member of Italia Nostra. He is committed to environmental protection. I’ve written about how the Sannio Hills are being inundated with wind turbines while windless Tuscany has none. Carlo is part of the group leading the charge to protect the hills around Pontelandolfo.

He is also a director of the World Wildlife Fund Oasi Di Campolatara and can been seen with school children explaining the pollination process and need for bees. I asked if he kept bees. Of course he does! He is a beekeeper and makes honey. In the spirit of transparency I must tell you he gave me a jar. It was scrumptious.

Besides bees, at Carlos home one can find miniature goats. He actually raises miniature goats. I haven’t asked if he makes goat cheese – that would be too pushy. Though I do love fresh goat cheese.

He has been lobbying for the inclusion of Pontelandolfo and Morcone in the Parco Nazionale del Matese. That inclusion would provide a plethora of benefits for our community. .

Protecting the environment requires understanding the media and how to make a voice heard. Carlo is also a contributor to the newspaper, La Cittadella. The articles are often reprinted and posted.

This incredible author, activist and genuinely nice guy spent his working years as a nuclear engineer. He worked all over the world. India, China, South Korea are just a few of the stops. Clocks in his office have times set for Roma and Seoul. (No he doesn’t glow from nuclear waste only from environmental passion and creativity.)

According to Carl, ” I have been an engineer for all my life and I had the opportunity, for work, to travel all over the world. I have always regarded this as a fantastic experience. Living away from the house where I was born for long periods, I suffered from nostalgia for my small native village in the Matese mountains. So I started writing stories of my village to feel closer to my people.”

We are so glad he did. Carlo Perugini is an incredible example of how the mountain air or our Pontelandolfese DNA has developed an avalanche of artistic citizens.

Ci Vediamo

Midge Guerrera

You too can breathe in our mountain air! Our team is setting up writing and cooking programs now for 2025. Email me at info@nonnasmulberrytree.com for exciting information.

Chi è Gabriele Palladino?

Who is Gabriele Palladino? Author, Actor, Musician, Journalist, Director, Producer, Father, Administrator… Did you ever meet someone and think – damn – he really is an artistic whirling dervish! The other day at Bar Elimar, he raced toward me and tossed his latest artistic work at me. I caught it – the book could have winged Jack’s wine and I’d been in big trouble. It was a collection of poems, Collana di Poesia: Le Loci di Via Margutta. I had no idea he was a poet too.

That night I sipped an adult beverage and read work that was incredibly relatable. Moments in time, love, Covid, horrors of war – all themes we have read before but in his short works the themes sang straight through to our souls.

But just who is this interesting man? The first time I met Gabrielle, he was playing the guitar and singing in a restaurant. The next time, he was pitching his book on the ancient dialect of Pontelandolfo, R sc’pird’ rr vallon’ Sc’picciarégl’ – Parlavam’ accussì – ll dialetto di Pontelandolfo. Is that Gabarile up on the stage as MC/ Host of the folkloric dance festival? Yup it was and it has been for every season since. I went to the library to find out more about the town’s most famous sport – ruzzola – cheese rolling. Of course I found a lovely book, Pontelandolfo – Le tradizioni: La Ruzzola del Formaggio, written by none other than – you guessed it – Gabrielle Palladino.

Crimes, I’ve unearthed one of Pontelandolfo’s true creative spirts. I found out he was a journalist when a story about our very first group of culinary adventurers visiting Pontelandolfo ran in the daily paper. The article was great and touted Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo written by – non other than… Gabriele – did I ever say thank you???? I’ve read his stories in both regional dailies and local weekly/monthlies.

 Dramma Sacro Santa Giocandina, the Sacred Drama of Santa Giocondina, has been performed in the Sannio Hills since 1872. I am betting that the version directed by Gabriele ranks as one of the best. Watching him direct is ethereal. He traverses the space and becomes one with his performers. Gabriele is a director, I wished I could have worked with. The event is produced every four years. Keep your eyes peeled for the next cycle.

Last week I went to see a play written by my friend Michele Albini. Check out the cast list on the poster –

See a familiar name? Gabriele was spot on throughout the work. Damn, this guy really is a renaissance man.

I just ran out to look at my book case to see how many of Gabriele’s books I had – not enough. Some of his other works include: Miti, leggende, superstizioni, credenze, tradizioni – magiche fantasie popolari, 13 settembre 1943 Il bombardamento di Petrillo – Albo dei Caduti della Prima Guerra Mondiale, Breve triste storia occultata del Risorgimento Italiano ovvero R sc’pird’ rr vallón’ Sc’picciarégl’, Storie da ricordare – In memoria del Commissario di P.S. Celestino Zappone nel cinquantenario della sua morte, and Pontelandolfo: “O brigante o emigrante – Il grande esodo – I fratelli d’oltreoceano.”

There is a lot of history, sadness and humor in that list. I will admit, the village dialect is a whole other language and I haven’t been able to make a dent in understanding it. What is amazing is how many people around the world do understand the dialect and have his books. From Argentina, Canada, Australia and the United States, people who grew up with families that emigrated from Pontelandolfo, proudly immerse themselves in the dialect. It is on my bucket list to learn.

And have I mentioned awards? This man – if he were British – would be knighted. He he weren’t so nice and supportive of all things Pontelandolfo, I’d be jealous. Check out this awards list –

  • Agosto 1983    XXI Settimana Folk Pontelandolfo
    • Premio poesia in vernacolo
    • 1° classificato con la poesia “Vécchjœ miœ”.
  • 23 Maggio 1999
    • Diploma di merito Premio Internazionale di Poesia “Principe Landolfo” 2° Edizione
    • Diploma di merito e targa “Meridiano Sud” con la motivazione: “per la sua abilità nel campo musicale e per la poliedrica capacità creativa”
  • 14 settembre 2003
    • Premio Letterario Francesco Flora 2003
    • Attestato di Benemerenza con l’opera bibliografica “Il Brigante Patriota Donato Palladino” – Registrato all’albo della II edizione sez. III n. 35
  • Agosto 2011
    • 1° Concorso Internazionale di Poesia e Teatro “Il canto dei poeti celebra la Città Martire”
    • 1° classificato sezione vernacolo con la poesia “O br’and’ o emigrand’”.

There is something in the Pontelandolfo air, water and life that fosters creativity. Gabriele is not the only writer whom I have met here. You will be reading about others soon. I think it was meeting and appreciating the circle of contemporary writers living here that was the catalyst for me working with Write Where You Are to produce a playwright’s retreat in Pontelandolfo.

Actually, you can meet Gabriele and other Pontelandolfo creative types this October. Due to an illness in a participant’s family there are two open spots. This google slide show tells the story. You can always email me at info@nonnasmulberrytree.com for more information.

Let your creative juices fly wherever you are. For me it is Pontelandolfo.

Ci vediamo, Midge.

Paperback walking tour of historic Pontelandolfo is waiting for you! Available at Amazon.

Grazie Morcone for the International Tourism Award!

Annarita Mancini, my cultural adventures partner, and I were invited to talk about
Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo

Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo started in 2016. Rossella Mancini and I gathered up a group of exciting and creative cooks to share their skills with culinary adventurers from all over the United States. How did this idea come about? Was I a tourism creative genius? Like most good ideas there was a catalyst that kicked my ass into creative action. Two women with roots in Pontelandolfo were the absolute catalyst for this initiative. Mary and Leona, while visiting the village of their heritage and saying hi to my next door neighbors, literally recognized me.

“Are you Midge from Nonna’s Mulberry Tree?”

After looking around to see if she was talking to someone else, I grinned like I just won a blog Emmy and said, “gulp, yes.” (I also realized I was in a very old and ugly house dress.)

“We love your blog and are so jealous. I wish I could live here like you and meet everyone.”

“Even for a week,” said her friend.

“But you can I said!” Not knowing what I was committing too, my theatre brain started improvising.

“How?”

Out of my mouth came – “Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo – a new program. Give me your email addresses and I’ll send you the information.”

I tossed on better clothes and dashed to Rossella’s house. Five coffees later, our brain cells were whirling and twirling in the Sannio Hills. 1. Idea was solidified. 2. Organized an army of – hate to be sexist but – women. 3. Meet with those women who would be the first home chefs, hook Annarita Mancini our ace multi lingua person as our primary translator, set a cultural track and bammmmmmm – Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo was born and off!!!! It took a village and still does. Thank you to every cook, translator, historian, cultural group and more. Thank you to all.

From Saturday, May 21 to Saturday May 28, 2016 culinary and cultural adventurers participated in the first ever Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo program. Four of the eight participants had direct Pontelandolfo roots. The other women discovered our village for the first time.

OUR FIRST WONDERFUL GROUP OF 2016 ADVENTURERS – Mary, Leona, Nancy, Dana, Charleen, Eloise, Flora and Lynn! GRAZIE A TUTTI!

This tourism initiative may have its roots in Pontelandolfo but introduces people to the Sannio Hills. Since 2016, the majority of men and women who have used this program to explore our region have been foreigners, without any family history in the area. After one week, those strangers feel not only like family but like proud Pontelandolfese. The international program has grown because those strangers have told other strangers, have told other strangers – and the beat goes on.

At that August 9th jam packed presentation, Annarita and I were stunned when Morcone’s Assessore of Tourism, Giulia Ocone, came up to the microphone with this –

Holey Moley! I actually CRIED!

Grazie al Comune de Morcone, Luigino Ciarlo sindaco, Giulia Ocone Assessore alla cultura, Daria Lepore di il giornali – La Cittadella, e Carlo Perugini per aver creduto in quello che faccio.

Un ringraziamento speciale ai donatori – finanziato dall’ Unione euorpea – Next Generation EU, Ministero degli affari esterni e della cooperativa internazionale, ministero della cultura.

Thank you to Comune de Morcone, Luigino Ciarlo mayor, Giulia Ocone council member for culture, Daria Lepore of the newspaper – La Cittadella, and Carlo Perugini for believing in what I do.

A special thanks to the donors –  finanziato dall’ Unione euorpea – Next Generation EU, Ministero degli affair esterni e della cooperative internazionale, and the  ministero della cultura.

WOW Midge, I hope you remembered everyone! If you don’t know what Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo is watch this –

Interested in being part of the 2025 adventure? Send me an email at info@nonnasmulberrytree.com.

Now we have expanded beyond cooking and are doing writer’s retreats! There are two spots left for the 2024 Write Where You Are October retreat.

Since, I have the attention span of a gnat and keep whirling like a mad dervish, I wrote two books that touted the area. Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos is a collection of short stories that revolve around my Fiat, Fernando. Annarita and I finished a guide book to Pontelandolfo called, An italian Treasure Hunt: The Quest for the Crests of Pontelandolfo.

Jack and I are blessed to be part of the fabric of life here in the Sannio Hills. Thank you to all who have embraced us and embrace my crazy ideas. Thank you for the town of Morcone for recognizing what we have done. Ancora, grazie a tutti.

Ci Vediamo.

Midge

14 Agosto 1861 – August 14, 1861

14 Agosto 1861. August 14, 1861. Books have been written, art has been created, songs have been song, blogs developed, plays have been performed, movies have been made, Pontelandolfo remembers, but have lessons been learned?

Genocide is hard to forget or forgive and yet genocide continues all over the world. OK, I am not a historian and I am calling the 1861 rape, pillage, burning and shooting of the people and places in Pontelandolfo genocide. Genocide done by the Italian army. An army that was told to annihilate everyone in the village. Italians killing Italians. Wow, in today’s world that sounds familiar.

A little back story – thanks to Pontelandolfo News – Renato Rinaldi and San Felese Society of New Jersey for a history lesson. This is all about money, power and who should be in charge. The unification of Italy and booting of the Bourbon Dynasty didn’t make everyone happy.

On August 13, 1861 General Cialdini commander of the Piedmont forces in southern Italy was getting reports from throughout southern Italy, especially in the rural southern countryside, about folks rebelling against the new regime. 

 He was outraged to hear that about 45 Piedmont soldiers had been killed by some rebels between Pontelandolfo and Casaldini in the province of Benevento. General Cialdini – think central casting super evil dude – loved punishing pro-Bourbonist southern Italians. Actually, bang, bang, he adored having his minions kill any pro-Bourbonist. 

 Why were Southern Italians so pissed off? With a new king, new government and pocket lining politicos, life changed dramatically. Decisions that seemed anti-south were imposed by Piedmont controlled local politicians as well as by central northern “national” politicians in Turin.

General Cialdini orders his field general in Campania, General De Sonnaz, to get rid of those blasted rebels and townspeople who had had the audacity to call for a Bourbon return. De Sonnaz passed the job on to Colonel Pier Eleonoro Negri.

Loving revenge, Italian Colonel Negri directed his men to launch an attack.  As Pontelandolfese calmly slept, an indignant, Colonel Negri ordered that his soldiers destroy the community.  Leave no stone left standing, he cried. (This command will forever seem extreme.) Entering Pontelandolfo in the middle of the night, Negri easily attacked.  Within moments, the countryside was in turmoil. 

Executions Under the Tilia Tree:

Italian soldiers crept into Pontelandolfo in the middle of the night.  Everyone was asleep.  Within minutes soldiers started pounding on doors, the church bells started to ring, guns were fired, boots pounded on the cobblestones.  Sleeping families woke up.  Holding their drowsy babies, parents wondered what was going on.
Racing to windows, balconies and doors, the Pontelandolfese were shocked to see soldiers running through their streets. The Italian Army had arrived, and everyone had a right to be afraid. The soldiers, kicked in doors, leaped up stairs, raced into homes killing men, women and children. They stole things and did things I don’t want to think about.  Flames soared into the night sky, and the village burned. The people that tried to fight back were dragged under the Tilia Tree in Piazza Roma and shot. Bang, bang!

Renato Rinaldi is the publisher of the Pontelandolfo News. He was a professor, as well as, a former Officer of the Navy.  Rinaldi is a passionate researcher of local history and has provided an in-depth look at the Pontelandolfo massacre of August 14, 1861.  As an author, he keeps the history of Pontelandolfo before us. We thank him for that.  We also thank him for his assistance with bringing Pontelandolfo to the world at large. He was instrumental in creating a village walking tour of the massacre of 1861. (I’m not sure if that is a real tourism draw but it is great for our school kids to learn our history. ) He had written stories to go with each stop on that tour and asked me to translate them into English. A few years ago, I did just that and printed a little pamphlet. Here is one of the graphic tales –

CONCETTA BIONDI

The story of Concetta Biondi has come to represent the disdain the mercenaries in the Italian army had for all that was good and pure. Women were treated like chattel and passed from man to man. Children were tossed aside like garbage. Husbands and fathers were held by laughing plunderers and forced to watch the mayhem.

As the marauders plundered the city, young Concetta Biondi, fearing the inhuman assailants, hid behind some barrels of wine in her family’s basement. When the young maiden was discovered by the mercenaries she fainted. Like cats with a mouse they toyed with her. Her father, Nicolas Biondi, charged down the steps to save her. He was quickly tied to a chair and forced to watch the debauchery. Finally, with a murderous hand, soldier killed this delicate flower and tossed her aside. Wine poured out of the barrels mingling with Concetta’s blood.

Tonight, we will be going to see the latest play about the massacre. It is written by our pal Michele Albini. As long as the story gets told, perhaps the lessons will be learned.

Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Midge

Award Winning
Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo

Is now organizing for 2025!
Lively Learning is also exploring artist, writer and musician retreats.
Contact me for more information. info@nonnasmulberrytree.com

Culinary, Cultural and Cursing Adventures

Three Cs for the discerning tourist. Culinary treats, Cultural experiences and Cursing in a new language – complete with gestures. Vafan#@$%!

Did she say cursing adventures? Our sweet American lady in her third act would never suggest one come to Pontelandolfo to learn to flip the bird in another language. Midge would never ever simply curse in another language!

Dear readers, I might curse in multi languages at the same time, but is that really the same as cursing in another language which implies one language? 🤣

Sigh… The title for this concept was not my idea. For this new tourism initiative, I must give credit where credit is due. It was the idea of the witty, wise and wee bit snarky women from Baltimore who were here for our last Cooking in the Kitchen of Pontelandolfo experience. One of them suggested that the name for our activity should be the three cs culinary, cultural and cursing adventures. Cursing in another language is the true mark of an educated person.

For the sake of decorum, I will not reveal which of these howling ladies came up with the idea.

I thought about this idea, it really does make sense. What follows is X rated and not for those folks who have never cursed and will never curse.

When we’re happy we curse. When we’re angry we curse. When we’re sad we curse. But what language do we curse in? When I was a kid, I cursed. OK the only curse I really knew was the F bomb. Both my parents used the F bomb. After a while, the F bomb became simply a yawn bomb.

Now in Italy, I’m hearing curse words light. Simple ones like caspita which means damn or merde which means poop and the list goes on. What our guests were referring to were the words dashed out by the men playing scopa in the piazza or arguing over bocci points. Words like stronzo, che cazzo, or bastardo. You can look them up, I am too embarrassed to define them.

Susan at age one was whispering “eat shit.”
I replied the family password, “and die.”

Sadly, I must admit my sweet sister Susan and I would often say something horrific to each other. Usually, after my mother blamed the wrong one for some egregious error. Imagine my delight to discover that we could share the love in Italian with – mangia merde e morte! Sounds so much better in the language of Dante.

But seriously, our tourism inattive has gone beyond cooking. Speaking of cursing, we have a fabulous group of playwrights coming in October. THERE IS ONE SPOT LEFT MESSAGE ME FOR DETAILS. I am a playwright and I curse. Does that imply all playwrights curse? No, but I a betting a few F bombs dash out on pages just to add a bit of reality.

If you would like an experience that goes beyond the backpack carrying mass tour and experience literally Italy, including a smattering of bad words. Send me a message. We are setting up experiences for 2025 now. Together we create something unique and real. I cannot guarantee you will hear cursing. I can guarantee it will be an experience you won’t forget.

Ci Vediamo

Midge

Check out our new updated website for Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolo!

Can’t get to Italy this year? Read my book Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos and live the life with me.

Where is Fernando Fiat today? Read Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos.

Culinary Adventurers take Over Local Bars

Bar Crawl! One can’t possibly appreciate Pontelandolfo’s culinary delights without experiencing the cultural delight of the Southern Italian bar. Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo, the program we started i 2016, offers more than tasty cooking. Participants also have unique tasty experiences.

Pour yourself a glass of something sparkling and join me for a Pontelandolfo Bar Crawl.

2024 Group One
Group 2 – Did Jack sneak into the Crawl???

First stop – Cafè Style. Run by the Nardone sibling, Antonio and Asia, the bar is nestled above the village and morning coffee there includes a glorious view. For our bar crawl, the participants – many for the first time – try a “spritz.” Often advertised in the USA, Aperol is the go to ingredient for a spritz. This orange aperitif, along with ice, Prosecco and a dash of fizzy water makes a colorful sparkling drink. Aperol is produced by the Campari Group. Speaking of Campari – Campari is my go to ingredient for a spritz that is a bit bitter and has a higher alcohol content. Just switch out the Campari for Aperol in the recipe and sip a great end of a long day adult beverage. The other happening spritz option is Limoncello, Yumm it tastes like a cool summer lemonade. My famous Los Angeles niece, Alexandra, turned me on to those. I hadn’t seen them in Pontelandolfo. The minute she told me to try one – zoom – I saw fashionable people sipping them in Piazza Roma. How did I miss this perfect summer trend??

Now, a spritz can’t be had without a little nosh. An aperitivo and a big nosh is called apericena – who needs a dinner. Frankly, I don’t want to waste my third act worrying about dinner and often grab Jack and head out for that 8:00 PM adult beverage and apericena. Ahhhhhhh.

Since this is the season of cucumbers, tomatoes and other early garden crops, Group 2 enjoyed an amazing cucumber salad, bruschetta of fresh chopped tomatoes, local cheese and sausage. Culinary plus cultural adventure number one!

Notice Pontelandolfo’s iconic tower in the background.

Onward! No weary partiers in our groups! Next stop Bar 2000! Down the hill, around the curves and into the center of town we go! Bar 2000 is owned by Ghaleb, a Tunisian expat, and his wife Rosaria. Calcio may be booming on the large screen but the late night snacks are middle eastern. The scent of the large skewer of meat slowly turning on the electric spit wafts down the street. Think of all those places you have visited serving Gyros. Here a handheld version is made with the addition of lettuce, tomatoes and more. These palate pleasing “piadine” are wrapped in foil and scarfed down by all. I suggested Italian beer as the cultural experience but, hey, I’m not their mom and one could drink what one wanted.

Since no one except me was tired. We ambled down the cobblestones to our final stop – Bar Cafè Elimar.

Bar Elimar is also a tavola calda and has a neat interior dining space. Since it was a Saturday night, the outside was jammed packed. Saying we’re not hungry but eagle looking forward to our crepes.

After a long day filled with conversation, tasty morsels and alcohol, what could be better than a Nutella filled crepe accompanied by a digestivo! Some adventurers tried Strega, the aperitif made locally. The Strega recipe of secret herbs has been guarded for centuries. Others, myself included, sipped dark colored digestives like Amaro di Capo, Cynar, Vecchio Romagna, or- gulp- sweet Limoncello.

Huzzah! We made it through another bar crawl. What culinary and cultural adventure waits around the corner? Everyday, life in a Southern Italian village like Pontelandolfo reminds me that we truly are lucky to live “la dolce vita.”

Ci Vediamo

Midge


Time to organize our 2025 Culinary and Cultural Adventures.