Paestum – Just Go There!

Somedays start off being just another day in Southern Italy and then – BOOM – you discover that a scant hour and half from Pontelandolfo there is an archeological site that is so spectacular it warrants visiting multiple times. Parco Archeologico di Paestum and Velia is located in the province of Salerno. Tickets to enter this massive park are only €12 each. In the winter you can explore the dramatic site for only €6 – which is what it also costs to park for one day. There are reduced rates for families too. If I lived a bit closer I’d buy a season pass for €20 and, just to imagine the stories of those that lived there, go often.

To put the site in perspective, I must use a quote I found in the book, “Guide to the Archaeological Site Paestum From Building Site to Temple.”

It is as if a god had built his house here
with huge blocks of stone.

Friedrich Nietzsche

Towards the end of the 7th century BC a group of Greeks (colonists from Sybaris) hopped on a ship, guided of course by the god Poseidon, and decided that the fertile valley of Sele was an incredible place to settle. Settle they did. Guess what they called the new city? During the VII century, Poseidonia was amazing. Majestic temples to ones favorite gods and goddesses were built. Remarkably, they still stand! No one paved this over and put up a parking lot. The temple of Neptune is allegedly one of the best-preserved Greek temples from the 5th-4th century BC. (Am I the only one who gets confused by the BC years running backwards?). There are a good number of incredibly well preserved divine, everyday, and community dwellings at Paestum.

Ladies, imagine, there was a huge bath house and pool for women only. Rumor had it, swimming there increased fertility. I wondered if women started the rumor so they could escape for a day of poolside lounging.

No, I did not stand in the center of the amphitheater and recite lines from Medea. But I did walk around it and marveled once more at the construction of these fabulous structures without the use of modern building equipment.

Besides the acres and acres of “ruins” that don’t look like they are ready to tumble down anytime soon, there is a museum that contains the artifacts found on the site. We spent the day wandering through the forum, temples, and other structures and forgot about visiting the museum. Great excuse to go back.

It is an easy drive from Naples or one can take the train. I think that would be fun to try. There is a stop near the archeological site.

Poseidonia, was conquered by the Lucanians who changed the name to Paiston. Bang, the Romans took control in BC 273 and changed the name to Paestum. The place is magical – no matter what it it is called. Think about adding Paestum to your Italian adventures.

Looking for a summer read? If you already read “Cars, Castles, Cows and Chaos” think about reading one of my plays! Visit my website and see the list. Thanks.

Midge Guerrera