What I REALLY Thought About QM2 TransAtlantic Crossing

Those of you who had been following my tales comparing my Nonna’s 1920 transatlantic crossing and mine, know that on May 30, 2025 we disembarked in Southhampton, England UK. Nobody laugh but until we took the QM2 across the Atlantic I didn’t know the word disembarkation existed. Then a bus, a plane and a car service later we were home in Pontelandolfo, Italy.

Some of you have messaged me and asked – What did you really think about the crossing? Was it organized to a type A Jersey Girl’s level of expectation? What did you learn? Would you do it again?

I thought the crossing was fabulous. Jack and I don’t put on worry hats. We absolutely ignored all those woosies telling us to wear magic anti nausea bracelets and take dramamine . Yes, one felt the roll of the ocean. That roll would rock me to sleep at night. It is chilly on the Atlantic but, frankly, we rarely went outside. We found two bars we loved – great martinis, fabulous views of the sea, comfortable seats and interesting other travelers. With my laptop in toe, I would write in the bars or simply stare at the sea. Being friendly folks, we often shared a seating area with other people and had funfilled and engaging conversations. Most of the passengers we met were from Great Britain, Ireland and Italy. (All asked us the same question – who voted for that man to be president? I shrugged and said “boh.”)

We had a room – or do I call it a cabin – that was quite large, had a sitting area, ensuite bathroom with a large shower and an obstructed view terrace. We could sit outside and see the sea through the glass sides of a lifeboat. Not being athletic, I didn’t think that if the need arose I could sprint and leap into the lifeboat. The obstructed view cost less and since we were rarely there was inconsequential.

Room Service Breakfast was off the menu and delish.

Every day a new slick printed trifold was placed on our newly made bed. It contained the schedule for the next day. the “Daily Programme” had nautical information, What to Wear advice for the day – Smart Attire please – and a complete list of activities. Frankly, we never went to see a show – back to the bar after our late night dinner. Never went to the interesting lectures. Never went to the dance and exercise classes. Never went to the painting and arts based classes. Never went into the empty casino. Never went into the all night long disco. Never went – well you get my drift. Passengers who were looking to use the voyage as a “cruise vacation” were not disappointed. I used the seven days as a writer’s retreat and finished a short story and three blogs. Jack and I also enjoyed exploring the nooks and crannies of the ship.

During the day there were lots of seats in the casino.

Based on how much one pays for a cabin, a restaurant is assigned. We were assigned to the Britannia Club and were never disappointed. The menu changed daily, was interesting, delicious and beautifully presented. Famished when we embarked (look I used the fancy word again) we foolishly went to the Kings Court Buffet. Crowds, grabbing a table, I thought I was in a college cafeteria. It was lovely to look at but we are foodie snobs so the buffet never saw us again. For up charges there were alternative dining options. We toyed with trying them but the food in the Britannia Club was so good, I didn’t see the need to.

Room Service was included in the base price. Every morning we got up when we felt like it, didn’t rush to a restaurant and had a scrumptious breakfast delivered. Portions were small – think tapas – and interesting takes on eggs.

We did go to the famous daily Afternoon Tea. Obviously it was a tasty treat for all. Sadly, waiters came around with carafes of tea, trays of different sandwiches, savories and pastries. I thought we were in a dim sum restaurant. I miss the tower and my own pot of tea.

Knowing we were not the soft drink kind of folks, we opted to pay $1008 for unlimited spirits, specialty beverages and more. I know, $72 a day each sounds like a ridiculous price until I started asking obnoxious questions. How much is a martini made with Hendricks? What do you charge for a cappuccino, sparkling mineral water, etc. Bar prices are the same as a New York City or London Hotel Bar. Yes, they charged for mineral water. If a glass of wine is $14 and Jack has two at lunch and three at dinner, we would spend $70. Now, add on the four bottles of mineral water, three cappuccini and toss in an espresso or two and he made the daily price point. Without worry and the tips are included. Frankly, we did spend a lot of time in the various bars and the coffee house. When we flashed our card with the pre-pay stamp we were treated incredibly well. Another incentive to hang out in the bars was the music. Jazz, harpist, light rock, Irish Shanties – music matched the tone of the bar. Sigh, I do miss that.

Bar Table With a View Worth Drinking For.

Was the adventure organized to my obnoxious management standards? Hmm. Yes and no. I would have appreciated some of the information we received on the ship in advance. When we arrived at our cabin we found information about where to eat, how to turn on internet, where do I get my key etc. I would have appreciated the first day schedule in advance. At the Brooklyn Pier, our luggage was whisked out of the car and directly to our cabin. I thought how spot on! What wasn’t spot on was the long cue to show one’s passport and tickets. No one explained in advance that there would be an incredible amount of walking to board the vessel. Jack has a squirrely back and we order an airport wheelchair for him. If I had been forewarned, I would have ordered a wheelchair at the pier . Disembarking was the same forced long march out.

The WIFI was another annoying issue. One must pay the evil StarLink for the service. I paid, and couldn’t get it to work. Obviously, hordes of other folks couldn’t get it to work and on day one we all cued up at the ConneXions Desk. There should have been more people working. After two days of writing, I realized I couldn’t upload anything. Now even more annoyed, I went to the purser’s station and stood in another long line to discover that for a few pounds a day more the wifi would work perfectly. I can’t remember what the uncharge was but hey…

The disembarking including our luggage being whisked out to the transportation center. We found our bags and then lugged them to a bus. Cunard for $90 a person will transport folks to Heathrow. I will never take the bus again. My short legs and big butt make climbing into a high bus and up stairs to the seats a nightmare. Lugging my computer bag down the narrow aisle wasn’t pleasant either. Next time, I would price out a car service to the airport. We spied small groups getting into bigger taxi style vehicles. The driver was helpful at the airport and made sure our luggage made it to the curb.

What did I learn? I learned that the Queen Mary 2, for some passengers, is a commuter ferry. Seriously, a lot of the people I met used the QM2 to get from one content to the other for work. The library on the ship has work stations with ocean views and unless I got there early enough, they were all taken with folks typing away. Someone said to me, they get a lot of work done on the crossing and arrive refreshed and ready to go.

I learned, not quite as bad as an airport, but you still have to wait in uncomfortable lines to get on and get off – excuse me embark and disembark. At least all of the staff was “Disney” smiling and happy.

People are wonderful and interesting. Traveling slowly across the sea provides an opportunity to really chat and get to know people’s stories. The Irish American sisters who visit Ireland annually and regaled us with village tales. They were from a county that butts the county that Jack’s clan is from. The Italian American couple who spend six months a year in Puglia were charming and fun to sit and laugh with in two languages. The Irish woman and her young son were a joy to play with. The world travelers who gave us hints for getting the most out of the QM2. And so many more.

I also learned that being in a cocoon of comfort was a catalyst for my creativity. Since I had been blogging about my Nonna’s journey, I wrote a non-fiction short story about my Aunt Cat. Hmm, a writer’s retreat on a cruise ship? What an idea waiting for someone to organize.

Would I do it again? If the total price point was right, I would do it again. When flights out of Newark, NJ were being cancelled, I started trying to get a flight out of Philadelphia or JFK. The price for premium economy or business class on short notice was the cost of my first car. Then, I get this promotional email from Cunard – last minute deals on cruises. The base fare for a great room with an obstructed view was $859 a person. If we didn’t like bar life or needed wifi, we could have gotten away with that low price. I added on Cunard Care – health insurance and evacuation for 74.27 each. The bus to Heathrow was $90. Then there were taxes. The cost for two people was $2,046.54.

Being math deficient, I had a team of people help me reach the conclusion that adding the spirits package, $17 a day tips, wifi and cheap flight to Naples to the base price the total cost of our voyage for two from Ewing to Pontelandolfo cost us less than one first class last minute ticket on an airplane.

Soooooo, would we do it again? Does Cunard offer discounts to commuters? We are investigating what the seas are like in November and you might find me staring out that QM2 bar window again.

Ci Vediamo prossima volta,

Midge Guerrera

PS. There is still time to come and Cook in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo.

SS Madonna VS QM2

This journey has really been revealing. Actually, no mysteries about the Atlantic Crossing were unveiled- except I did see a whale and it seems that only American Men deem to wear baseball caps to the dining room. The reveal, was personal, very personal. It helped me appreciate my grandmother even more. The revelations started when I discovered SS Madonna, the ship Maria Rosaria Solla, Caterina Guerrera, Nicola Santo Pietro and Salvatore Guerrera took across the sea.

Even though both were built in Europe, SS Madonna by Swan, Hunter and Wigham Richardson Ltd on The Tyne in Northern England and the Queen Mary 2 by STX Europe in Saint Nazaire, Brittany, they had nothing in common. SS Madonna was built specifically to carry cargo and 1,650 emigrants in steerage between Liverpool and New York. (I’m thinking the emigrants were considered cargo too.) There were accommodations for 54 first class passengers. The QM2 carries 2,695 passengers in luxury.

SS Madonna left Napoli on December 3, 1920. A scant 17 days later it arrived at Ellis Island. The Queen Mary 2 powered out of Brooklyn, New York on the evening of May 23, 2025 and will dock in South Hampton seven days later. What a difference one-hundred years of design innovation can do.

Queen Mary 2 – Stunning ship.

The class system on the Madonna was very clear. Fifty four people crossed the Atlantic in cabins, with access to the outside deck and real meals. The hordes of emigrants down below were given bread. Aunt Cat said, they had carried cheese with them and would have starved without it. As I researched this, I couldn’t help but think of the slave ships also built in Europe to carry human cargo. Cripes, the things humans do for profit.

We will never starve on the QM2. Actually, every meal except the over crowed first night buffet has been exceptional. We were assigned – based on our ticket class – the Britannia Dining Room. Others, with more expensive tickets go to the Queens Grill or Princess Grill. That said, we all meet and mingle in lounges, bars and entertainment venues. Frankly, we haven’t had one bad day of eating. Please do not tell anyone, but we never get up in time for breakfast and are addicted to room service. Sigh, does that make me a princepessa? I hope so. My room service eggs scrambled with salmon are light fluffy and downright heavenly. I order them daily.

Find Solla and Guerrera. For a challenge find others from Pontelandolfo.

Studying the SS Madonna’s manifest, I was smacked again with the constant disparaging of Southern Italians. Southern Italians are farmers, stupid, lack initiative – all stereotypic BS. The Northern Italy versus Southern Italy conflicts were intensified during the unification of Italy. Pontelandolfese remember the summer of terror. On August 14, 1861 rape, pillage, murders and fires consumed Pontelandolfo – all in the name of unification. Nothing like genocide to get one to agree to a concept. It all still angers me.

Therefore, I was horrified to see the classifications on the List or Manifest of Alien Passengers for the United States. There was a category for nationality and one for race. My family was listed as Italy for nationality and – gag me now before I scream – SoItalian for race. What race is SoItalian? The green people? My grandmother had blue eyes – the blue eyed people?? As opposed to NoItalian for race – the fancy people? Guess what, on this manifest I didn’t find anyone whose race was NoItalian. Maybe if you were from the north you could afford one of the 54 first class tickets.

Rosaria Solla’s occupation is listed as peasant. Peasant is better than bonbon eater. Other trades I found were tailor, laborer, housewife.

Accompanied by a 9, 7 and 16 year old, my nonna was rejoining her husband, my grandfather Francesco Guerrera. It was a treacherous experience. The December sea pounds all ships. I can imagine the wild ride my family had on the SS Madonna. The contemporary design of the QM2 keeps it stable.

We easily adjust the thermostat in our cabin. My grandmother, freezing was saved by the generosity of strangers sharing their coats.

The more I researched the ship, the prouder I was of my grandparents. Both went on harrowing adventures, holding their love strong until they could be reconnected.

Jack and I are rejoining our Italian family of Pontelandolfese. I’m proud of us for discovering this transportation solution to the current chaos of air travel. Will we cross the Atlantic this way again? We shall see. I know my nonna felt that once was enough.

Ci Vediamo a presto

Midge

PS – come see us in September – Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo.

What to Pack to Cross Ocean?

Maria Rosaria Solla do not pack that heavy dark wool skirt. Do you want people to think you are a contadina?

I am a contadina and the skirt is warm.

Thank you for the skirt. I am taking it right now and you are packing the colorful dress. Now, on the ship you will look like a proper lady.

BAD ADVICE!

Nonna brought this photo with her. I wonder if that is the “friend” who took her warm and functional clothes?

As we read Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 dress code, I panicked. “What to Wear: Smart Attire.” I’ve got two advanced degrees but my clothes ain’t necessarily smart. Reading more, I knew I wasn’t going to look like a proper lady going to the ball. They have black tie fancy dress dinners and parties on board! All my fancy duds and summer clothes are in Pontelandolfo. In New Jersey, Bluefish style winter artsy fartsy is my fashion statement. I ran out and bought a $26 black dress at Marshalls, packed my silky scarves, bijoux and bling jewelry and hoped for the best.

Maria Rosaria hoped for the best too. Sadly, as I was told by her and Aunt Cat, hope was not enough. Crossing the Atlantic Ocean in steerage was freaking cold. According to Aunt Cat:

On the ship it was so cold mamma couldn’t stop shaking.  She didn’t have anything heavy to wear. I hate that lady who took her warm clothes.

Mamma was shivering and had a fever. She just stayed in the bed – we were all way down in the bottom of the ship – hundreds of us.  My brother Nick, Sal and me – mamma was so sick – we were kids. We didn’t know what to do. An old man felt sorry for mamma and took care of her.  He got coats from the other men and piled them on her. Somehow she lived.

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Warm cape was the first thing she made in New Jersey.

My lack of stylish summer clothing was not a problem. The Atlantic Ocean breezes are cold. My linen long sleeved ensembles and scarves were just right. And, frankly, we only went outside on deck for brief walks. The interior of the Queen Mary 2 is not only well appointed but temperature controlled.

The fancy dress parties were not even on the radar for my grandmother. Steerage tickets didn’t entitle voyagers to much.

Saturday night was Cunard’s Red and Gold black tie event. I felt perfectly fine in black palazzos, black silk top and huge hand painted silk wrap. Bejeweled handmade creations from Lambertville put the icing on my dress cake. As we sat in one of the upscale bars listening to a harpist, Jack said, “ Why didn’t you tell me it would be black tie. I didn’t even pack a tie.” Sigh…

Ci vediamo.

Midge

PS: check out Cooking in the Kitchens of Pontelandolfo. Still spots left for September.

Across the Atlantic

Jack and I are blessed to be able to buzz back and forth between our homes in New Jersey and Pontelandolfo. Travel is never easy. Does anyone love the lines and commedia of any airport? The waiting for late flights. The agony of cancelled flights. It all is horrific. We were packed and ready to head back home to Italy when Newark Airport became a shitshow. Outages in the tower causing traffic controllers to practically faint at the controls. Runway mishaps and construction problems. What?

Then the text from United Airlines came. If we chose to cancel our flight, even though we had nonrefundable tickets, they would be happy to give us our money back. Hmmm. What are they telling us? Next, I heard the CEO say that to keep their passengers safe they were canceling flights. Cripes. I cancelled. (Still waiting for the refund.)

Searching for last minute direct flights through Philadelphia or New York JFK was impossible. Then the gift from the goddesses appeared in my inbox. Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 was having a last minute sale on empty cabins. I looked at Jack and bought two tickets. (What, you thought I’d leave home home alone?) The base price was considerably less than premium economy on any airline.

The fare was $859 each. Add on transportation to Heathrow Airport from South Hampton, Cunard Care Health Insurance, taxes and port fees and the total for two people was $2046.54. That includes food but not adult beverages, Wi-Fi, or the tips. I am not sure what the final bill will be but when I do, you will be the second to know.

One of my creative friends suggested that I was echoing my families immigration experience – in reverse. Is that why I saw the Cunard ad? A message from someone who came before me? Write about the parallels she said. Gulp. Let that challenge begin.

Like my grandma, passport in hand, heading to Napoli to grab a ship, we headed to the Brooklyn Piers.

Our great driver, Al, from Spectrum Limo got us to Brooklyn in record time. It was much easier than the ride to JFK Airport. With three kids in tow, luggage, food and a husband who was already in New Jersey, my grandmother struggled to get to the dock in Naples. Someone from Pontelandolfo got them there. Then she was on her own.

At the Brooklyn Pier, porters grabbed our luggage from the car and free of encumbrances we walked to the terminal. WHAM, then I got the chills. Long lines snaked trough the terminal. As bad as or worse than any airport at Thanksgiving. As we crammed into the que, Aunt Cat’s story of Ellis Island took over my consciousness.

Struggling with bundles, Rosaria and her three children joined the Ellis Island mayhem. Crammed to appear upright between her mom and older brother, polio crippled Catherine was marched through the madness. Children were crying, different accents were heard and the closer they got to the people in charge the more fear built up in Catherine.

Engulfed by a cacophony of accents – mostly British Empire – I could see and feel Aunt Cat. We were squished and prodded through to passport and ticket control. They took our pictures. I asked why. Who is monitoring the pictures? If we don’t look “right” will they refuse to let us disembark or back into the USA? Was Aunt Cat forcing the words out of my mouth. Or was I just a tired Jersey girl?

Little Catherine was right to be afraid. She was pulled from the line, taken from her now crying mother, and placed in quarantine. Her experience disembarking the ship had a lifelong impact.

Daily, my grandmother and grandfather came to check on her. Their lack of the English language and peasant status made the ordeal sad, frustrating and scaring. Obviously, Catherine was ultimately released and they began a life in New Jersey.

Domani o dopo domani I will continue the reverse journey story. The Star Link WiFi sucks. You may or may not get this blog post. Let me know. Please add it to social media for me. The WiFi on the ship – that I spent $240 on – doesn’t let me access social media. Hugs to all of you and all of your journeys.

Ci vediamo

Midge