Back to School! Learning and Teaching

I know you are staring at me. I’m the new kid.  Everyone stares and whispers about the new kid.  Even though I am a glorious member of the sixth decade club, whenever I am in a new place with new people  I want to scrunch down and get super friendly in the corner behind Mr. Ficus.   “But Midge,” pals say.  “You will talk to anyone.” Yeah, but  first I have to take a deep breath, say, wherever I am God is and all is well, and then give myself an actor’s objective.  Damn, getting up the courage to talk takes a lot of stressful work.  Work!  That always works for me in a strange new situation – work.  Around strangers I have to have a job – back to the actors objective – give me the antipasti to pass around and I can chat up a storm.

Lightning bolts of panic zapped around my brain.  Strangers in a new town, new country, faced with tons of new people to meet and they speak a different language. How will I meet them?  How will I ward off boredom? I need a job!

Before we got to Pontelandolfo, I asked our very own School Board Member (consigliere), Rosella Mancini about volunteering as “madre lingue” in the elementary school.

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The bus travels up the mountain collecting kids. Parents PAY if they want the bus to stop.

Starting in “scuola materna” – pre school – English is taught in the public schools.  At the lower levels, it is the classroom teachers responsibility.  I thought this act of kindness/selfishness would give me something exciting to do and I’d meet a bunch of great kids.  They were truly great kids – they stand when ever a teacher enters the room and say Buon Giorno. NO ONE is staring at their phone!

Here’s a quick overview of the educational system – don’t worry I’ll toss in some pictures.

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Not the prettiest of buildings. Very 1950’s utilitarian.
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I wandered and found this on a back alley door. Yes, I reported it.
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Happier note – they get music and art in every grade. This is a piano keyboard class. Besides English they were studying French too.

All children must stay in school until they are 16 -“Scuola del obligo”.  Gossip from the teachers is that school directors don’t accept kids failing.  If a teacher fails a child, it is the teacher who is the failure.  Whoa – where does that put the responsibility?  How many kids just “pass”?  I gotta say I taught a good number of college students that graduated from high school and couldn’t write a sentence.  Guess some practices are world wide.

TA TA da dum – standardized tests are given by the Italian government during a students third level of la scuola media (students ages 11 to 14).  Tests – another global initiative.

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The primary school was condemned and now those students have a wing in la scuola media.

Those attending una scuola dell’infanzia/materna, ages 3 to 5, and  una scuola primaria/elementare, ages 6-10 get to wear  un grembiulino.  The smocks are adorable.

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Clean, cute and practical. Ours were blue.

The “primaria/elementare” and “media” scuole classes I visited had classes of about 15 students – I am told that is the norm.

i went to the end of year show – music, poetry, history – performed on a very small stage that had incredible art around the proscenium.  That great art was covered by pictures the teachers made of fruits and vegetables – REALLY.

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NOOOOO! Art Alert! Art Alert!
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Staples. They used staples.

Not all things are simply fabulous in Italy – the show was to start at 6:30 – it didn’t.  Parents started lining up to go in at 6:00.  The teachers didn’t open the bloody doors until almost 7:00 and people pushed in to get the limited seats.  They need me to produce their end of year shows.

This performance was also the send off for the students going on to una scuola superiore – 5 year high school.    These 14 year olds must pick a career so that they can pick what secondary school to go to.  Cripes, at 14 I wanted to be something different every day – doctor, lawyer, nun, actor, cabaret star….   (Good link to understand the system – http://www.rome-explorer.com/rome-guide/italian_secondary_school.html)

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Secondary School for Public Administration! Do we have one of those? I think not.
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Secondary School located in Pontelandolfo – Art and Design of Gold Jewelry! Sadly, since there is not easy public transportation and enrollment is low the school will be closing.

OK, back to me teaching.  To arrange the volunteer commitment,  Rossella and I met with the director of the district.  I took one look at the head of the schools and could barely remember my memorized bio in Italian.  Thank the stars for Rossella who did the commercial for me.  My mind went blank.  I was stifling huge guffaws – because this woman who deals with tween age boys all day had a blouse on that was cut so low her girls must have been freezing.  Geeese Louise – dress for the job.

Worse than not being able to speak was not being able to listen – though Jack says I am a chronic non-listener.  I thought she said, “ how do you like Casalduni?”   I said something like, yes, I like Casalduni (neighboring village).  What she had said was, ” would I mind teaching there too! ” Not being totally fluent got me into tight binds often.  Somehow we managed to ignore that request and just focus on the children in my home town.

Day one approached.  I had looked through all of English text books for the entire spectrum of grades – from ages 5 – 14.  Gulp, they should know more English grammar than I was ever taught.  The sweat was dripping off my brow as I created lesson plans for every grade – did I say every grade.  Yes, I taught in every single classroom in the co-mingled primary and middle school.  A little voice said – “teach what you know.” Kids and creative dramatics are perfect together.  Whew, I should have thought of that sooner.  Not bragging here – but since the classrooms are very traditionally taught and I ain’t traditional – the kids loved my classes.  I started every class with one of the many name games I can pull out of that theatre trunk in my head.  Of course to introduce myself, I did something silly  and wondered about the gasps on my last name – Guerrera – until I heard all of their last names and heard a bunch of them say – Guerrera.  Yikes, more branches on the mulberry tree to explore.

Enough reading – time to go to the video.

Land Line Phone? NO! VOIP? YES!

Land line phones? Are they going the way of the dinosaur?  My brilliant computer consultant Cyndi turned us on to Magic Jack.  We have dumped our Comcast Cable Triple Play Plan at home and just use the VOIP Magic Jack gizmo.  VOIP stands for  Voice Over Internet Protocol, a technology for making telephone calls over the Internet in which speech sounds are converted into binary blah, blah, blah techno jargon blah blah…  Bottom line –  you need access to the internet to make a phone call.

For the initial investment of $69 for the Magic Jack gizmo that plugs into either a router or a computer.  You get a U.S.A. number that goes with you anywhere in the world.  8393889864abe39f4c5972Now that is pretty groovy but I wanted our existing number.  If I finally sold a play or if something tragic happened at home like tidal waves from the Raritan River, how would people find me?  Don’t worry, for about $10 you can “port” your existing number to Magic Jack.  That is exactly what we did. For $79 for the initial year we now have unlimited calling in the USA and Canada and unlimited international calling to the USA.

We were just a tad apprehensive.  I am a “show me” kind of chick.  We set up the gizmo at home – dumped Comcast phone service – it worked great.  The voice quality was fine and as long as we had high speed internet we would have a phone, voicemail, e-mail alerts of voicemail, caller ID, free directory assistance, call waiting and FREE international calling to the USA.

To have a Comcast bill that made sense we dumped cable TV too – that was a wee bit more challenging.  The Triple Play Plan – means you use them for the phone, cable television and high speed internet.  Since our plan is not to be home much, having the flexibility of carrying our phone number with us is wonderful.  The internet is everywhere and so is connectivity.

Before we left for Italy we tried the Magic Jack with my laptop and Jack’s.  It worked fine.  We just had to buy a traditional phone with a cord that could be jacked into the Magic Jack.  I bought a $9.99 model at Radio Shack.  We plugged it in and tested it at home.  It worked great.  Jack packed it in his suitcase and off to Europe we went.

The initial dilemma was the lack of internet service at the house we rented. Ooops. Magic Jack is a VOIP – need that internet.  Wait – there is an iPhone App for Magic Jack!   I set it up on my phone, logged into Magic Jack and boom had free international calling over my 3G data network. (Remember, the earlier blog – we only pay $13 a month for unlimited data with WIND.)  We did the same thing to Jack’s phone.  My phone carries the number that came with the Magic Jack and Jack’s phone is our old home phone number – hmm, we really need to switch that.

Meanwhile back at the Wi-Fi quest, it took us about a week and a half to get internet installed and the router working.  A sigh of relief.  We could set up the real phone and now hear that pleasant ring when folks in the USA call us.  We put an Italian adapter at the end of the plug, plugged the phone into electricity and into the Magic Jack.  Hey, what’s that smell?  Burning plastic – the $9.99 phone was fried by the Italian current.  Don’t ask me why, just don’t bring one.

We ran out and bought a cheapy Italian phone.  Now the cheapy Radio Shack phone was small, white, plastic and ugly.  Check out the form and function cheapy Italian phone.

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Cute!

Note the lines!  Feel the beauty!  It cost $9.99 and is cute and didn’t melt.  Yeah.  We have a phone.  It works – sometimes.

In all fairness, the sound quality has a lot to do with the internet connection.  At our house in Italy we have an antennae on the roof that brings us Wi-Fi from the Wi-Fi gods of the mountain.  I have no idea how it works.  When it is windy – which in the mountains is often – the antennae is doing dirty dancing and the reception is less than great.

There are other VOIP opportunities out there but they seem to cost more.  So, even though we can’t hear you when the wind blows over the mountain, we are still happy with our Magic Jack.

For the complete commercial: http://www.magicjack.com

Circo Acquatico comes to Pontelandolfo

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The CIRCUS is COMING!
TA TA TA DAAAA TA DAAAA

Remember those one ring circuses that scurried into small home towns across America?  The one elephant, two-horse shows that still bedazzled us with its newness.  The traveling small tent show may have died in America but thanks to families like the Frimers it is alive and well in Italy.

My interest and excitement was piqued when the signs appeared on the main intersections of Pontelandolfo.  Signs that showed a scantily clad damsel fighting off the sharpened teeth of a great piranha – or was it a catfish?

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That must be one huge fish tank.

“In less than a week,” the signs taunted, the incredible Frimer Acquatic Show would be setting up shop in Ex Campo Calcetto.  Not wanting to forget the where and when, I snapped a photo of the signs.

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Are there different names on each poster?

Friday, from deep within the kitchen of our all stone house I heard a voice so loud I dropped the tomatoes. I raced out side.  Speakers topping an old blue van – the new circus parade – were encouraging us all to experience the wonders of the circus tomorrow.  OK, I didn’t understand a word of what they said, but I bet they were touting the wonders of the circus.  Finally, it was Saturday – the day the circus was setting up its tent.  After stopping at my favorite salumeria for the best mortadella in the world, I found the most incredible gift under my windshield wiper.  Two discount coupons for that night’s performance!  It was fate.  Jack and I could see the world’s greatest Frimer Acquatic Show for only 7 euro each!.  I could barely contain myself.  The performance was at 9:15 PM.   It was 4:00 PM.  How could I wait five hours????

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Only 7 euro – about $9 for live entertainment.

We got into the village at 8:30 – I wanted a good seat and went to the Campo di Calcio – no tents?  Cripes, did I read it wrong? Where is the circus?  We walked back to a local bar and noticed people heading towards the piazza behind the the village center – the what I thought was a parking lot that holds the recycling bins.  We started to follow them – I heard music – circus music!  We were getting closer.  Like Conestoga wagons of the wild west, blue tractor-trailer sized trucks had encircled the piazza.  A line had formed in front of the ticket counter – people were clutching the same coupons I had.  The ticket booth was in a truck and about 6 feet off the ground.  Folks were standing on tippy toe to hand  their coupons and money to the overly made up but pretty young ticket taker girl.  She suddenly stopped taking money.  No!  Were they sold out?  No, she was out of change and no one had any.  We waited about 5 minutes for a navy blue suited burly roustabout to appear with some change that he pirated from the closest bar.  Whew, we were getting closer.  I paid and then we looked for the entrance.  The tent!  I see the tent!  Jack pointed out that the tent we used for picnics was only slightly smaller.  I scoffed at him – this is the world’s greatest circo acquatico.  When we enter the space I am sure the grandeur of the circus will unravel itself before us.  The burly blond ticket taker ripped our tickets and we walked down the path to the tent.  It was small!  I counted about 100 K-Mart style old white plastic chairs set up in 3/4 round – for you non theatre folks that means that the performance space had chairs on three sides of it.  The performance space was pretty small but look there is a large yellow curtain behind it.

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Could the piranha be behind the curtain?

I bet that lifts up and we see the tanks of water.  People slowly filed in.  The first night audience was small – about forty of us.  Jack and I were probably the oldest, but we have young hearts!  There were two men in their fifties or 60’s at the light and sound boards.  They looked vaguely familiar – like the dads of the ticket seller and burly blonde ticket taker guy.  The music changed, the lights dimmed and the ringmaster appeared.  He welcomed us all and a clown  – who kind of looked like the ticket taker and light board guy – came out and started an old vaudeville shtick – it doesn’t matter which one.  Just know you have seen the Marx Brothers do it – it involves kicks in the butt.  All laughed and the music changed to great entrance rumblings.

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Rings and things fly in the air.

Suddenly, dressed all in black and juggling madly, a handsome young man appeared.  Wait, he looks familiar – it was the ringmaster!  He juggled clubs, balls, tennis rackets, rings – the usual and when he dropped them all applauded and laughed.  He raced off to the applause of tiny hands.

The clown skirted in with a baby carriage – the baby cried – he picked up the baby.  He showed us the baby.  The baby squirted water on all of us – including my new white pocket-book.  Well it was Il Circo Acquatico.  H’mm he kind of looks like the ringmaster/juggler guy too.

Next a chef appeared with a stack of plates – wait he looks familiar.  Ahh, the burly blonde guy who took the tickets.  Plates, rods, balance – you’ve seen that schtick before too.  Nary a plate broke, all were spinning madly and the audience cheered.

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Burly ticket taker guy is also the balancing plate guy.

A platform was wheeled out and a sexy lady with the usual boobs on a plate outfit appeared.  She bent into a back bend and walked up the platform steps on her hands.  Wait – she looks familiar?  Ahhh the girl in full make-up who sold the tickets!  She was a modified contortionist – think yoga and gymnastics with a little double jointed tossed in for good measure.  It hit me.  Everyone looks alike!  They must be a traveling circus family.

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Sexy ticket taker and contortionist gal.

What could top a contortionist!  The bored five year old member of this talented circus family  that’s what.  She came out with silver hula hoops and whirled them on her waist, feet and arms.  Since she couldn’t be seen above the ring wall, we all stood to watch this tiny tot perform.  I figure she is probably on the payroll for tax purposes and needs to do something entertaining.  Or the family insists that all earn their keep.

Soon the juggler/ringmaster was back dressed as a magician assisted by ticket taker/contortionist lady.  How did she escape from that sack after being locked in a black box?  How did he get from the audience into the sack?  Whoa!  Cheers went up.

Damn, more water from Il Circo d’Acqua – this time the clown tried to clean the audience and sprayed us all.  Ugggg

During intermission most everyone exited to go and lood at the tank of piranha and something else that I couldn’t translate.  Maybe the contortionist/ticket taker/ magician assistant girl climbed in the tank?  We missed that.

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Take filled with creepy fish has its own truck.

We decided to watch the show happening by the popcorn and candy corn vendor – who was obviously the mom, sister or aunt of the performers.  Hoping to be discovered by the fathers/uncles who were in charge of sound and lights I entertained the kids around me with my silly faces and freeze game.  Well, I thought it was entertaining.

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Burly ticket/dish guy is also the hot fire guy.

Suddenly the lights dimmed and the music was foreboding.  With muscles bursting, burly ticket taker/ twirling plate guy appeared juggling fire!  Soon the fire was in his mouth and racing up his arms.  He burned up the audience with pyrotechnic surprises.  He actually stroked his arms with lit wands – we could see the charcoal black swaths cut over his biceps.  The women went ugggg, the kids went “can’t wait to get home and try that mom”.

Indian Jones music floated through the tent.  Roustabouts – the burly fire eating guy and clown guy – dragged out big mysterious black boxes.  The frame of a coffin was set center stage.  Clown guy returned dressed all in black.  He became the animal trainer guy  and slowly opened a box.  Shouts of fear went up as he took out a four bazillion foot white snake.  Screams from all as he walked closer and closer to the audience!  The magician/juggler/ringmaster guy pulled out a huge unhappy iguana.  They kept pulling out creepy crawly things and bringing them into the audience so all could see these fierce creatures.  Adults pulled back.  Small children reached up to touch them.  I gotta tell ya, snakes for a finale – now that is something I have never seen.

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Did I mention the snakes were enormous?

This revealing of a different snakes and having them dance, hiss and crawl went on for about fifteen minutes.  Ticket lady/contortionist/magician’s assistant girl came out sexily dressed and stepped into the coffin.  She laid frozen still as all of the snakes were plopped on her and slithered all over her.  I must admit, I got a little turned on from this – don’t tell my husband.  But no – I don’t want to try it.

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H’mm slithering serpents! A devilish good time.

The crowed cheered, the lights came up and the incredible cast of four bowed for all.  Ooops, I forgot the little girl – cast of five.  Their versatility is what makes them incredible.  Everyone doubled and tripled so that the show could go on.

This is a theatrical family that is doing what it loves to do in small towns across Italy.  Frankly, I am a little jealous.  Wafting nostalgic over my children’s theatre touring days, I wondered if I was too old and feeble to buy a van and tour a one woman show…

Don’t Tell – I Went to an Italian Tupperware Party!

Remember that scrumptious ravioli Carmela made for my birthday? (Check the May 15 blog – Pumpkin Ravioli.)  She used an incredible Tupperware ravioli mold – former – thingy.  I had to have one.

The Tupperware Lady told me that they don’t ship the stuff made in the USA here – cost too much.  There are Tupperware factories in Belgium, France and Portugal.  H’mm do they make special EU stuff that we can’t get – like great large ravioli former things????

Bye for now!  I’ve got ravioli to make.

A Typical Day – Video Blog Experiment

Yikes, these Apple products are cool.  I had no idea how to make a video blog of myself talking about Pontelandolfo.  Then I remembered, I had a Mac Air Book – or is that a MacBook Air – and I guessed there would be a way that was so easy a kid could do it.  So I called over a 5 year old Italian kid – who couldn’t read the English directions but pointed the screen of the lap top at me and said “Parli”.  So I did.  Let me know what you think of the Video Blog idea.  As an aging theater professional, it is easy to talk and talk and talk….

San Antonio Brings Summer to Pontelandolfo

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San Antonio Kicks Off Summer

Yeah, it is officially summer in Pontelandolfo!  Yesterday, June 13th, was the festa for San Antonio di Padova – the annual kick off of the summer season.  This saint merits a two pronged celebration – check out the poster – “Programma Religiouso” and Programma Civile”.  Over two days, San Antonio was given three masses, a procession with a band  and his statue was carried through out the town!  The not so religious program was a great cover band set up in the piazza that played the canon of Italian rock and traditional folk frenzy music.

Jack and I made it to town in time to see the procession come down a hill from the church. The brass band led the way, followed by the little children in white robes and a group of men carrying the massive stature.  There were even more folks processing than I had seen for Corpus Domini.  We decided to sit at a bar and watch the actiity.

The three bar’s in the piazza had set up outside service bars, food stations and extra tables. Think the Jersey Shore! Our favorite, Bar Elimar, sported wicker couches and coffee tables. Two of the bars had set up “kebab” stations – we would call them gyro stations.  Big hunks of mystery meat on a gyro skewer turning slowly and oozing a great scent.

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My favorite place to sit, stare and sip.

We plopped on the comfy couches at Bar Elimar, ordered a vino bianco and a prosecco, and quietly watched the procession wend its way out of the square.  When our drinks arrived, we were pleasantly surprised to also get great little plates of olives, mini mini sandwiches and little fried puff pastries.  After two drinks each and the whopping 5 Euro bill ($6.60), we carefully walked up the hill towards the medieval tower.   We were headed for Il Castello, a great seafood and pizza restaurant.

The band wasn’t starting for another hour and the owners of Il Castello, Salvatore and Lidia, always treat us like family.  We knew that munching on Salvatore’s wood oven pizza and chatting up a storm in both Italian and English with Lidia would be a great way to pass the time.  We ate our pizza, drank our wine and then felt the drums begin to fill the square.   It was time to carefully pick our way over the cobblestones down the steep hill to the piazza.  How do young women wear heels on cobblestones?  I am tripping my way down in flats.  Ooops – #$%#%%.

Since it was a bit chilly – the wind was whipping over the mountain – there weren’t as many people out for the nine o’clock “spettacolo” as I’ve seen at past musical events.  Those of us who did brave the chill, with grappa and caffè in hand, danced in place, swayed and sang along.  Ba ba boom – and then the fireworks kicked in.  Jack and I quickly went to the promenade that overlooks a valley and watched the show.  Something really bothered me – no one said “Ahhhhh” or  “Ohhhhh”.  I tried to get the crowd to ooo and ahh but Jack put his hand on my mouth.  I guess I was embarrassing him.

When we lived in Asbury Park and were the insane proprietors of Caffè e Dolce, the money losing bistro from hell, Memorial Day kicked off the summer season.  In the good old days, there would be a concert on the beach and thousands of kids would squish together on the sand and hopefully buy stuff from all of us starving beach front vendors. The day after the Memorial Day event the beach was full of trash.  The boardwalk was full of trash.  The streets were full of trash.  You will never guess what I didn’t see walking into town today – TRASH!  Last night, there was a concert, dancing in the streets, fireworks and folks sitting all around the piazza. I found one soda can under a tree and a couple of paper towels.  H’mmm che cosa???

I must tell you, until yesterday, I was freezing my proverbial ass off (OK, I wish it would freeze off) but you get the idea.  May was incredibly cold.  I had a visiting nephew pack a pair of sweat pants for me and bring them to not so sunny in May Italy.  Today – the day after we celebrated San Antonio, I walked down the hill to Bar Elimar for my morning cappuccino and it was hot.  Not a little warm, not maybe a great day, but honest to heaven summer hot – and it was only 8:30 AM!  That San Antonio is an incredibly powerful guy!

Check out the slides!

http://youtu.be/Q4jRhFtAYH8

Read all about more Summer Events in Pontelandolfo – In Italian of course!

http://www.pontelandolfonews.com/index.php?id=3387

Procession – Celebrating Corpus Domini

Petals tossed by white robed cherubs.
Petals tossed by white robed cherubs.

I walk down the cobblestone hill through crushed rose petals tossed at me by sweet young girls in flowing white robes – their hair festooned with crowns of flowers.  Birds are singing and the cadence of soles on pavement stirs me.  Instinctively, my inner muse comes to life and I begin to move my arms in the fluid style of Isadora Duncan or Ruth St. Denis. POP – POP POP- ZZZEEEEE –  I hear the pop and feedback of the sound system and then the rhythmic reading of Mons. Giusseppe Rosario Girardi,  the Pontelandolfo parish priest.  Whoops, I remember where I am – processing to celebrate Corpus Domini (Corpus Christi) and I start behaving like the good woman I am.

To celebrate Corpus Domini  the parish of San Salvatore in Pontelandolfo (Arcidiocesi di Benevento) and many parishes across Italy had a mass on June 2nd followed by a procession.     My cousin called and suggested I come to mass and participate in the procession.  I didn’t know what to expect.  The last Pontelandolfo procession I walked in women were barefooted – silly me not understanding enough Italian at the time thought they were barefoot to protect their expensive shoes from the harsh cobblestone streets – not reliving the pain of Christ.  My Italian has improved a lot since then but I still wasn’t sure what I was in for.

The past week I went to mass in this same Baroque style building and the church wasn’t full.  Of course, folks do have multiple masses at three different churches to choose from, so it is difficult to assess the strength of the Catholic Church  The Corpus Domini mass was held in the church in which my grandmother was married.  It was first built before 1500 (Romanesque) and then destroyed totally in an earthquake in 1688 and up and running ten years later.  Paolo Collection (33)Inside, the church is divided into  three naves with incredible paintings – but we’ll save the church/art tour for another post.   I love going to the church and imagining nonna on her wedding day or holding her children at the baptismal font. I can feel the presence of my history in these stone walls and sense the eyes of my family looking at the incredible art.  Yeah, yeah,  I am rambling.

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The alter is amazing!

Back to this particular mass – it was packed.  There was barely standing room.  A group of young girls sat in the front wearing white robes and garlands of white flowers in their hair.  At first I thought the boys I saw enter in white robes were alter boys but there were too many of them.  I found out later  that the children who had their first communion either one or two weeks earlier always get to lead this procession.  The sounds of the service surrounded me.  The choir, accompanied by guitar, overwhelmed the naves and primary space with sweet music.  The priest didn’t have such success with the microphone system which tweaked with feedback and growled irregularly.  However, everyone participated verbally in the mass – this really surprised me.  Even the children maintained a sense of decorum.  I hadn’t a clue as to what was being said but the magic of every voice – without the aid of a missal – responding and singing was chilling.  During those brief periods when I attend church, everyone clutches a book and reads along.   One of the young women told me that even as children they didn’t look at a book to learn responses. Little kids actually listened in church and mimicked their parents to learn the  responses, prayers and creeds.

When the mass was over, I hung back to take a picture of the alter to show you.  The little guys in white were all lined up holding candles and also waiting for the space to clear.  I didn’t know how the procession worked and – well oops – my presence may have gotten them in a bit of trouble over a missed cue. As I quietly went to the front of the church – to the nave on the left and lit a candle for my nonna – I heard of chorus of sweet young voices say “hello, hello”.  I turned and with big smiles and candles waving, six charming elementary students that I had been a guest English teacher too were happily demonstrating their vebal prowess.  A quick rebuke from an elder and they stopped smiling and started down the aisle.  I snapped my picture and also headed for the front of the church.

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Piazza in front of the church – note the girls in white to the right.

I’m guessing there were well over two hundred people waiting to walk in the procession.

Procession started from the front steps of Chiesa Madre del S.S. Salvatore.
Procession started from the front steps of Chiesa Madre del S.S. Salvatore.

Six men carried a golden canopy out of the church and stood poised on the church steps.  Under canopy is a gilded cup holding the host.  The beautiful young girls stood in two parallel lines, holding baskets full of flower petals. Young members of the church held up the portable speakers and microphones.  One young woman  started reading and the priest slowly came down the steps.  The young girls tossed flower petals on the ground.  The priest walked through and the congregation followed.

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This is the alter of San Donato, who along with Sant’ Antonio, is the patron saint of the village. He merits a huge festival in August here and in places around the world – like Montreal and Waterbury CT – where people from Pontelandolfo have gone.

Little alters are permanently placed around the village.

As we all walked up and down the hills of the town, the readings were broadcast through portable speakers and everyone was contemplative.

If you go to You Tube you can see quite a few Corpus Domini processions.  I felt I would be the ugly American if I pulled out a video camera to record the event.  OK, I did sneak a few photos on my phone – —

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Silently we walked up and down the village lanes.
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Two sets of young people carried the portable speakers. One pair was in the front and one in the rear.

Pontelandolfo and Calcio – Perfect Together!

I have to admit, sports and I have never been “Purrrrfect Together”.  In high school I went to football games and walked around flirting with boys – oh was there a game on?  First down – hut – uggh.  When I was a young teacher and recruiting boys to be in my musicals, I discovered that the boys who wrestled moved well and could be taught to dance, hence, I attended wrestling matches.  OK – so for two periods of my life I “went to a game, match, meet.”  Beyond that – niente, nada, nothing.  Then I got to Italy and discovered Calcio Mania in Pontelandolfo.

My introduction to calcio was in  2002.  Italia was in the World Cup!  I pretended I knew what that was – had no clue.  Here is what happened.

Part One:

It was a lazy afternoon in Pontelandolfo.  I was sitting at the kitchen table in our apartment reading when suddenly the piazza became a cacophony of sound.  The air was filled with screams, horns blaring, tears and sobs. Had terrorists bombed the Vatican?  Were the beaches at Anzio breached?  No, my husband calmly informed me.   Italia had tied their last world cup game.  That meant they were holding on to second place in their division.  That couldn’t be it – second place couldn’t cause this chaos.  I raced to the terrace to peer at the piazza.

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Brava!

A parade of almost every motorized vehicle in the village had instantaneously formed in the piazza.  Horns of all pitches and rhythmes – the staccatto beep beep beep of the Ford Pronto –  the  tiny motorini bip bip – and the I must really live in Manhatten keep your hand pressed down on your blaring big horn whaaaaaa.  A wee little boy is leaning out of the passenger window clinging to the pole supporting a full Italian flag as his father/brother roars in a circle around the fountain. Italian flags wave from almost every vehicle.  A motorini whizzed by  –  a girl on the back with both arms raised to support the flag.  It followed behind them like a Jersey shore promotional banner tailing a plane.  One car has not one but four full size flags, bigger than the passengers hanging on to them, flying from each window.    The cars continue to circle and circle. shrieks, screams, tears  –  eeks.  What was it like when the allies landed?  I don’t get the sports thing.  Men in tight shorts touch each others butts and the homophobes think its ok.  Adults visiting a foreign country paint themselves in their country’s team colors and raise angry fists in the air.  Behavior considered pagan any other time becomes ritual allowable drama during high sports celebrations.   The wails and beeps have been going on for 15 minutes now.  When do you think they’ll get bored of and start reading a book or having caffe?

Part two:

I entered my cousins house to find 6 pre-teen girls clutching each other as they stared morosely at the television.  The referees are obviously favoring Korea over Italia – home court advantage and all that.  Tears and angry tirades filled the room.  One girl with tears streaming down her face wailed from the depth of her soul.  The chilling sound had to reach around the world to that evil World Cup referee.  The match was still close.

Rain, like the tears of the young fans slowly glides over an empty field.
Rain, like the tears of the young fans slowly glides over an empty field.

These were the emotions needed to move their team on.  Oh, oh – time – they lost.  I moved as far into the corner as I could because I didn’t know what emotions would erupt.  Heart wrenching sobs erupted from another floor in the house and got closer as the resident 5 year old raced to find the comforting lap of his mother.  His father and cousin were close behind.  With anger plastered on their faces they stormed out of the house and headed out to the rural men only bar.  The girls in the living room frozen in place did not speak.  The wimpers and silent tears said everything.

Part Three:

Now that I have been introduced to the calcio world, I went to a local match on the villages’s impeccable playing field.  Pontelandolfo plays in a five on five league, so the field is shorter.  Makes it easier for the fans to surround the field and see every exciting moment.  The enthusiasm is infectious.  As you’ll see from the video, the upper promenade is packed with fans of all ages.  It feels like the entire village has come together on the field of battle to press it’s warriors on.  How could I not be part of that?  How could I not connect with that passion?  Between Nick Losardo and Jack Huber we have visuals of last weeks game.  It ended in a tie!

Brava Real Five Pontelandolfo!    http://www.realfivepontelandolfo.it/