Alghero’s Angelina Demartis

by midgeguerrera, posted in Food - Eating In and Out!, Stops Along the Journey - Sites Off the Tourist Track

Angelina Demartis è una brava donna anche una insegnante di cucina meravigliosa!  Con lei ho imparato a prepare Malloreddus alla Campidanese, Culurgiones, Cozze Gratinate e Bianchini. Durante questa classe abbiamo parlato solo in italiano!  Gulp….

Angelina Demartis is an incredible cooking teacher. Even though she only spoke Italian and some of the people in our class only spoke English, her non verbal communication skills, animation and love of cooking conveyed the techniques we needed to make some scrumptous Sardegnian fare. 

Whoa, I’m getting ahead of myself. You are wondering where I was when I found her, how I found her and what we made.  Sorry for letting my enthusiasm for her class and the incredible food I tasted in her kitchen get in the way of linear storytelling.

This October a group of thirteen of us headed to the best Italian language school ever – Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera.  As part of our language lessons, we had the opportunity to practice our linguistic gymnastics in the kitchen of Angelina Demartis.  She is a graduate of the Instituto Professionale per Operature Dei Servizi Di Ristorazione – Settore Cucina.  Then went on to university and now by day teaches Italian and History. By night, she cooks and cooks and helps other folks learn to do what she loves to do – cook.

We climbed the three flights of stairs – yes I paused on landings – wondering where we were going, who our teacher would be and what we would be eating.  The what we would be eating was on everyone’s hungry mind.  This gorgeous, smiling bundle of energy and love – Angelina Demartis – opened the door and we at once knew we had entered foodie heaven.  The working space is a large kitchen that leads into a larger room, that leads out to a great roof top patio with a sea view.  Ahhhhh.  After lots of hugging and kissing and putting a glass of sparkling water in each of our hands she began to tell us what we would be making.  Lucky for us, she had prepared handouts in both English and Italian. 

We learned how to make two typical Sardegnian pastas. The first was Culurgiones – it is a filled pasta formed to look like a shaft of wheat.  Of course mine looked like a blob of dough but I kept on trying.  What makes this pasta interesting is that it is made with three types of flour.  Regular farina 00 – flour, semola rimacinata – finally ground semolina, and integral – whole wheat.  The Culurgiones were stuffed with mint, potatoes and two kinds of Sardinian cheeses.  Malloredus alla Campidanese  is a pasta made with semolina flour, saffron and water.  Simple and delisious with a simple tomatoe and sausage sauce. 

Angelina is not only a foodie but an incredible actress – we really didn’t need a translator to understand what she wanted us to do.  Besides the pasta, some of us cleaned mussels, made the stuffing for the mussels and the lucky ones got to make the super sweet and yummy Bianchini – meringues.

Guess what we did after we made all this glorious food?  We sat down, drank wine and had an incredible dinner that included not only what we made but other tasty morsels made by our hostess.  Buon appetito

What you thought I was  going to share the secrets of how to make the pasta and sauce?  Watch the video and you’ll pick up a few tricks.  Better yet, next October join us on our second Nonna’s Mulberry Tree trek to Centro Meditterraneo Pintadera.

Cooking With Angelina Video

Ci vediamo!

Il Vento Ululante

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo

I sat up in bed and couldn’t figure out who was calling.  A quick glance at my iPhone and I knew it was a dark and windy 5:47 AM.  The wailing continued.  Then it became a moan – a grievous moan – a heart wrenching wail – the sound ebbed and flowed. It wasn’t Jack, he was still sleeping beside me.  Was it Zia Vittoria?  Was someone outside.  Than the moan stopped and the lilting soprano began.  Did I drink last night?  No.  Pain meds? No.  Then it hit me – the wind.

Yesterday afternoon, the rain had finally stopped.  It was chased from our hills by a ferocious wind. The minute the sun popped it’s almost forgotten face over the close-line, I threw a load of laundry in the machine.  Hanging the clothes out side on the line became a war – Midge against the wind.  Clothes flew out of my  hands and whipped down the lane.  Clothes wrapped and wrapped themselves around the line wringing themselves free of water but not wind.

Wind pummeled the mountain – but it was better than rain.  People are still cleaning up from the flood.  Road crews are slowly working on crumbled streets.  All of that is hard to do in rain.

I understand where my grandmother, aunts, uncles and father got their internal strength.  To live here you have to be able to adapt, to conquer and to understand that it takes a village working together to move the biggest boulders.  I do mean that literally too.

Gruppo Comunale Protezione Civile di Pontelandolfo – an all volunteer group – has moved some boulders.  When the rain stopped for a nano-second after flooding the hills, they went out and and did damage assessment – found the roads that had caved in or impassable, homes that were hit hard by the storms etc. They also have been collecting donations of food, water, cleaning supplies,clothes etc.  Then distributing them to the people who need them.   They have not only assisted here in Pontelandolfo but other communities as well.  My thanks to them and to the people all over the world who leap into the fray to help.

The wind may moan and scream here and in other parts of the world.  But working together we can all bring out the sun. Maybe even kick some political butt and slow down global warming….

Ci Vediamo.

And Then It Rained

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo

This past summer crops withered on the vines for lack of water. The olives were the size of olive pits. The only happy farmers
were vintners – I learned that grapes don’t need tons of water to grow and the wine they make tastes great. The ground around our house was literally splitting. Small chasms appeared in the ground. I was beginning to feel like we were living in the dessert not the verdant hills of Campania.

We headed to Sardegna for a two week crash immersion class in Italian at Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera and left the drought behind us. Taking classes and organizing activities for Nonna’s Mulberry Tree’s first group activity didn’t leave me a lot of time to play on Facebook or even read one of the newspapers from Benevento. It wasn’t until we were packing up to leave that I discovered it had finally rained in the province of Benevento.

And when it rained, it rained and rained for over 24 hours. It started Wednesday, 14th of October and didn’t end until almost Friday morning. This was not your happy “I’m singing in the rain” rain but a deluge that wiped out railroad lines, sent mud slides and rock avalanches down the hills into the center of towns, and caused floods that led to deaths. In our over televised and I think desensitized media watching world, it is one thing to see the video of cars floating in streets and another to actually see, smell and feel the devastation.
Having heard from our best friend, Nicola, how bad it was for others and how we were spared. I wasn’t afraid to head for home. Potelandolfo was only without electricity for two days. Other towns are still without. Today, 20 Ottobre, our water is brown. They are flushing the pipes. Other towns do not have any water. Our house and the village center are positioned on the hill in such a way that we didn’t get hit with any mudslides or rocks. 

The periphery of Pontelandolfo wasn’t so lucky. Roads in the outlying contrada washed out and mud found its way where no one wanted it. Neighboring Casalduni was underwater and mud. The roads are still impassable. Casalduni citizens are without electricity, water and the ability to leave. The dedicated mayor, Pasquale Iacovella, has been going in and out via tractor to get things organized and solicit help from the government. Ponte, further down the mountain, has piles of rocks in its streets. Benevento, our provincial capital, was underwater and people died. The state was rebuilding a bridge on the highway between Campobasso and Benevento. I don’t think they will finish anytime soon. The bridge and highway were destroyed. 

Solopaca is home to some of the areas best and largest wine cooperative cantinas. Before we left we saw the parade of farmers bringing grapes to be processed into Falanghina Del Sannio DOP and Algianico DOP. Now the cantinas are ruined. The equipment was under mud and water and the grapes that weren’t harvested are a soggy history. The loss of income for so many people is incredible. Rummo, a pasta manufacture in Benevento was obliterated – that means until they rebuild the jobs are gone too.  # Save Rummo is the social media campaign started by the company and its employees.
Our personal confrontation was nothing compared to the devastation around us. We figured getting home might be a challenge. Trenitalia sent us an e-mail saying our train from Roma to Benevento could only go as far as Caserta. Gulp. We weren’t sure how we would get back to Pontelandolfo but we were going to try. After the 45 minute flight from Alghero to Roma, we began our day long journey home. I went to the information kiosk at the train station ad asked if we should try to go to Boiano – not a good idea. OK, how do we get out of Caserta? “We will have buses to Benevento.” We took a train to Caserta and were herded with those going beyond Benevento to Lecce onto a convoy of 8 giant buses. There was not a place for carry on bags and the undercarriage luggage spot was jammed packed. The bus ride seemed endless. All interior roads were avoided. It seemed like we were going from highway to highway in an endless circle. Eventually, we made it to the Benevento train station where Nicola was waiting for us.
On the slow ride home we travelled roads narrowed to one lane by mud piles on either side. Olive groves were now rock gardens. 

  
Piles of furniture swayed near the street outside of homes. Water was still slowly receding anywhere there was a depression in the ground. Having lived at the Jersey shore and been horrified by the flooding in places close to the sea. We understood how devastating floods could be. What I didn’t understand was how it could flood in the mountains. Now I have seen it.

The elders tell me that they have never seen weather like this or a flood like this. Yup, the weather belts are changing. Global Warming can do that you know.
It started raining again on Monday. That means we have only been with out rain for 2 days since the flooding. I hope it stops soon. No one is singing.

Ci vediamo.

Eating My Way Through Alghero

by midgeguerrera, posted in Food - Eating In and Out!, Stops Along the Journey - Sites Off the Tourist Track

The historic center of Alghero, Sardegna is chock full of eateries serving everything from tourist drek like crepes and waffels to exquisite Sardinian fare.  Guess where we ate?  Yup – if it was Algherese style food – or any Sardegnian traditional yummy – you would find us there.

Jack and I are incredibly fortunate because our pal, Nicola Schroeder – one of the administators of ace language school Centro Mediterraneo Pintadera – has lived in Alghero for over 20 years, knows we are foodies and has never given us a bad recommendation.  Pintadera is not just a school it is a bastian of information on all things tasty in Alghero.

As part of our two week language immersian course, Nicola oranized a welcoming dinner at Tratoria Lo Romani, Via Principe Umberto 29. The menu was a wonderful introduction to artigianal Sardegnian fare.


Owner, Gigi treated us like family. We started with antipasti della casa (selezione dei migliori salumi e formaggio sardi) – think platters of antipasti including melted cheese, fried red peppers, roast pork with carrote e zucchine, sardinian prosciutto two kinds of hard sheep’s milk cheeses, roasted vegetables and cubes of vegetable frittata. We groaned and kept on eating. Next ravioli with cheese, potatoes and mint. Gulp, I asked is there more?  Of course. Mallereddus alla campidanse – Sardegnian mini gnocchi followed.  Carafes of local red and white wine were constatnly filled. Burp. What? Now he is plying us with Sardegnian digestivi – two types of Mirto and limoncino.

To see if if our love for Lo Romani was true love or just starving tastebuds kicking in, we went back on our own. Gigi recomended Granchione with linguine.  Granchione?  Hmm – in my best Italian I said “non capisco”.  Gigi replied – linquine is spaghetti.  How about Granchione – big crab.  Crab is my favorite food in the world and the thought of big crab had me salivating.


This dish was so perfectly prepared that I danced out the door and have told everyone I’ve bumped into to head over to Trattoria Lo Romani at Via Príncipe Umberto, 29. Yup, true love!

Nicola also recommended La Botteghina. You will notice that I have absolutely no photos of either of the two dinners we ate there. Why? Because it was all so incredible that we ate every bite before Jack looked at me and said “hey, you didn’t take any pictures.”

On our first visit I had absolutely the best piece of beef I have ever had in Italy. I’m not kidding. No one ever seemed to understand rare. This was a perfectly cooked fillet drizzled with red wine sauce. Jack had a tuna carpaccio that kept him up all night. Not because he was sick, but because he kept thinking about it. Our dinners that first night were so good that we went back with a large group. What a pleasant surprise! The restaurant has a rooftop terrace. Of course with my shaky knees that was a bit precarious but after we got up up up there the view was great and the sampling of sea foods we had was even greater. La Botteghina is also on Via Principe Umberto,63. (Labotteghina.biz)

Oops, it is 4 o’clock here in Alghero. You know what that means! It is cocktail hour! I better write about my third favorite restaurant and head on over to the bar for an apertivo.

One morning in Italian class my nose started twitching. The incredible smell of garlic being tossed in olive oil was wafting up from the restaurant below through the open windows of Pintadera. Who could think about Italian grammar. All I could think about for the next two hours was ho fame!!

Our Italian classes get out at 1 PM. Jack and I raced down the steps and slid in an outdoor booth at Al Refettorio.  The restaurant is located on Vicolo Adami,47. I had an insalatina di polpi – octopus – that was so fresh I thought I was swimming with it. Next I had a creamy baccala montecato. I had discovered this awesome dish on Murano and eat it whenever I see it. Jack loves tuna and had both carpaccio di tonno and grilled tuna. He raved about both.

What?  You think all we do is go out to eat?  Nah. We love our Italian classes and don’t cut them for a nosh. Besides if we didn’t go to class I couldn’t ask Nicola for restaurant recommendations.

Ci vediamo !

I Fratelli Sforza – A Restaurant Force

by midgeguerrera, posted in Food - Eating In and Out!

When I want to be an “uptown girl” complete with groovy clothes and bling, I head to  my favorite place to sip a Jack Daniels – Landulphi Pub – owned and operated by i fratelli Sforza.  Don’t let the word Pub confuse you – as it did me – Giovanni and Giuseppe Sforza have created a delectable restaurant/bar. The Sforza brothers – including brother Mario- are an entrepreneurial force to reckon  with.  When they do something they take the time, creativity and energy to do it right.


                    Giuseppe Takes our Orders and Giovanni Cooks

In 2008,the brothers procured the secret chambers below Pontelandolfo’s 14th century castle and riffing on the medieval history of the space developed a gathering place that would rival an upscale Manhatten or Roman eatery.  The first time I went, I felt like I had been tossed back in time.  Ancient stone walls, dark wood, medieval weapons and staff sporting medieval garb set the tone.   The menus are in Latin. Words like “phascolus” and “vitulus” guide you into a historic world of                                                            interesting food that is based on traditional country fare.  Don’t panic, after the Latin headings the descriptions are in Italian.  OK – panic.

 

Luigi Silvestri — Bartender Extraordinaire

The word “pub” alerts you to the six pages of beers!  You heard me – beer. (I must admit that Jack gets snarky because they don’t sell wine. Though now he is drinking Leffe Rossastro from Belgium.) The beers are all interesting and really do go with the food.  Landulphi also has a full bar – so my cousin Maryellen could have her gin and tonic.  Actually, we bring all our guests and they always want to go back.

I like i fratelli Sforza because they are astute marketers.  When we have out of town visitors, I don’t tell them to look for the Pontelandolfo street  signs but to follow the brown and yellow Landulphi signs.  These slick signs guide you into town from every direction.  The Sforza’s created great promotional material and Landulphi is listed in every conceivable guide. The website is slick – when you click here make sure to visit Il Locale and L’Hortus to see great shots of the interior.  Landulphi Web-site

The last time I was there  I ate the scrumptous Sorbitio Leguminum – a hearty bean and grain soup. Jack had Panis Hestermis, a warm salad with rape, sausage and tomatoes. We’ve tasted almost the whole menu at one time or another and like it because you can have some thing heavy or light.  We always order a bowl of green olives to nibble on while we wait.  They are perfect and we must find out where they get them.

I could blather on and on about the yummy fare  – I won’t because you need to taste it yourself . Next time you are in the Campania region head for Ladulphi.  You’ll be glad you did.

Ci vediamo a presto.

Terminal 1 – Roma

by midgeguerrera, posted in Food - Eating In and Out!, Travel Comments

  • Happy travelers in Terminal 1

How is this possible ?  We just had a great meal, served on linen covered tables in Terminal 1 at Rome’s Fiumicino Airport.  Our day started on the Frecciargento fast train from Benevento to Roma. Next, we grabbed the 1/2 hour shuttle train to the airport. Lugging our luggage we finally got to Terminal 1 to wait for our plane to Alghero, Sardegna.

Yawn. Bored right?  Impossible – this place is a stroll down Fifth Avenue on New York. I quickly zapped to attention and drooled on the display windows of oodles of Italian designers.

Jack was more focused. “Pranza,” he said. Let’s find a place to eat and relax. We started searching. Sigh, designer shops and a facockata food court?  However, the foodie gods were with us and led us to a wee bit of gourmet heaven just beyond the expensive panini.

“Wine and Food Restaurant” is tucked away at the end of the food court. Lunch cost us €52.50 but was well worth it. When you consider an airport panini can cost you €15 the price isn’t bad. I had the freshest mozzarella di bufalo that I’ve had in ages. It was served beautifully on a bed of greens and tiny tomatoes. Yum.

Jack’s ceasar salad was elegant and unusual. It was made with arugula, tomatoes, and tons of large slices of parmigiana. He followed that with pasta caccio e peppe. A thick creamy ragu laden with tons of cheese and fresh ground black pepper graced home made spaghetti.

Yes, of course we had wine and acqua minerale. Yummy.

We will remember this place the next time we have a long wait in Terminal 1!

Ci vediamo.

Sandy Beach Fun in an Italian Mountain Town

by midgeguerrera, posted in Any Day in Pontelandolfo

Brrr, baby it’s cold outside.  The wind is sweeping over the hills, storms are brewing on the coast and I just finished editing a summertime video

This summer a truckload of sand was dumped on an open space in Pontelandolfo. What for, I wondered. Then our house guest, Alana, announced that my cousin Giusy was organizing a team to compete in he Beach Volleyball tournament. Alana would be the only American on a team. What a hoot. Beach volleyball in an Italian mountain village.

I went to a couple of matches and found the enthusiasm contagious.  Check out the video you may  too.

Murano – The Venetian’s Venice

by midgeguerrera, posted in Stops Along the Journey - Sites Off the Tourist Track


Beautiful isn’t it. This isn’t a picture postcard enticing you to visit Venice. I shot this picture at 8:00 PM on a Tuesday night in Murano. What is missing from this tranquil setting? A gaggle of tourists racing off cruise ships or stepping on each other’s sneaker shod toes to get a better selfie in front of this or that.  That is what the historic center of Venice is like today. Why deal with that when you can enjoy the Venetian life style right here in Murano.

When I say Murano, I bet you say “Glass”.  Yup this is the island in the lagoon that is famous for the production of incredible glass products and the preponderance of faux Murano glass made in Chinese factories.  How do I know?  We stayed on the island for a week, chatted with folks and visited different shops.  Some shops even posted giant signs saying “Buy Murano Not Chinese.”  We did buy but from folks that were actually working on products that we could see.  Museo Del Vetro is a wonderful way to fully understand the glass business and see beautiful glass work.  For cittadini anziani (over 65)the fee was only €7.50

The vaporetti crammed with tourists that dash from glass shop to glass shop roll in about 10:00 AM and the last shopping bag laden person seems to have disappeared by 5:00 PM.  Those of you who read me know I have the patience of a gnat when it comes to tourists – loud pushy tourists.  So how did I survive even six hours of a place chocked full of crazed glass shoppers?  We stayed off the main canals and hung out where the real people lived.  That is the beauty of Murano – once you move inland away from the major canals it is pretty tranquil all of the time.

Our hotel, Hotel Conterie, was on the quiet Calle Conterie, 21.  We walked through a piazza to get there and saw children playing and people sitting on benches taking the sun.  The hotel was clean, our room was a fair size and the staff was helpful. My knees had a hard time with the two and half flights of steps to our room.  There is a hotel tax in Venice – for two people for 3 nights it was €22.90. The breakfast room used a SAECO  self service machine.  You know “push a button” to get the style of coffee of your choice.  My morning cappuccino was a major disappointment. The steamed milk was obviously steamed chemicals.   That said, I still liked the hotel. It was only a five minute walk, sans suitcase, to the vaporetti station. The boat buses run all night.  From Murano it is easy to get around to the other islands.  Venice Water Buses

In the piazza, I chatted with a local woman who said they loved living on Murano and working on the main island.  It was a safe place to raise children and tranquil.  She also pointed out a local bar/restaurant on the same sun filled piazza we walked through.

Murano Restaurant

We wouldn’t have know that “Ai Bisatei” existed and were happy she let us know that the fare was local.  We ate lunch there one day and paid about 50% less than the other restaurants charged near the main tourist driven canals. The lima beans with saor were wonderful.  We found this yummy sweet, sour and salty condiment in lots of fare – it is simply onions that seem to have been sitting in vinegar.  Of course we had to have the sweet wine with the requisite S shaped cookie.  A grown up dunker.  Hmmm.

Until we made local pals, it was a bit tricky to find restaurants that were open after the last tourist hopped on the vaporetto.  We did find three restaurants that were open in the evening.  The rest appeared to only open for lunch – high tourist time.  That was a bit disturbing.  Considering how small the island is and how most folks eat cena – the light evening meal – at home, it does make sense.   Osteria al Duomo Pizzeria, Fondamenta Maschiop 20-21 (Osteria al Duomo) sat just across a bridge from Il Duomo and did a brisk nighttime pizza business.  It was the first place I ate the traditional bacala mantecato – my new favorite lush and creamy way to have bacala.  The price point was great too.  We averaged €40 a night for dinner and wine. It was only a short walk from the hotel, we liked the food and the local people, so we ate there three times.  We became instant regulars.

Can we talk about bars?  In Piazza Roma – Pontelandolfo – tables and chairs in front of every bar announce that this is the place to grab a coffee, wine, nosh and chat with pals.  One morning, not wanting the crappy hotel cappuccino we went searching for a bar and a brioche.  We walked and walked until 10:00 not seeing one chair in front of one building welcoming us.  At ten, the tourist spots on Canal Grande di Murano and Canale San Donato starting putting out their  chairs.  I went into one small bar, ordered due cappuccini and asked where the early morning bars were.  Turned out that one opened at 7:00, one at 8:00 and this guy at 10:00. Unless you lived there you would never know it.  We did find a bar, in a kiosk, near where the boats laden with fruit, mail, and other boxes came into the canal.  It was a “stand and go” type of place.  They had a sign “no picnics here.”  Then it hit me – doink.  If there were tables and chairs outside tourists, not locals, would plop and probably not go in the one man operations to buy anything.  It was great to get a real cappuccino – cost €3.50 – €2.60 more than we pay at home in Pontelandolfo.  Now we also knew where the local spots were – sans outdoor seating.

Of course, I had to buy some glass trinkets and Jack and I decided to look inland for a local “hot shop”.  Andrea Giubelli makes beautiful necklaces – yes I bought one – and other small items. Here is his website – Andrea Giubelli.  His studio – I watched him work – is Calle Luna 12.  

Murano Impressions – just a few quick brush strokes before the video –

Clear skies and quiet nights.  Laughter floating out of shuttered windows as families gathered.

Yesterday’s garbage neatly tied and hung on hooks high out side doors.  Men  dragging carts collecting trash and smiling.  Where do they take the garbage?  Barges with dumpsters collect from the carts and head off.  Where do they take the garbage?

Men and boys, fishing poles pointed to the heavens, legs dangling off piers staring at the sea.

Women dragging shopping bags on wheels from marchelleria, to fruitivendolo to the supermarket COOP.

Barge toting fruit and vegetables, barge toting building supplies, barge toting UPS boxes, barge toting cases of water, barge toting frozen Bindi desserts, barge toting everything COOP needs on its shelves, barge toting a crane, barge toting a cement mixer,  barges — the necessities and amenities of life dependent on barges.

Check out my video –

Ci Vediamo!